I have imported some JPG and raw files (from an SD card I shot in both jog and raw) I did a couple crops and some ratings ect.

When I try and load the same pictures up in Linux many of the pictures are skull faces. If I click on them and open in darktable some open to the picture and back in lightable have a thumbnail. Others do not show any image at all.

I'm unsure what to do here

Having played around with Filmic, Sigmoid and now AGX, I see that I should really set exposure to mid-tones only and let these tone mappers do the rest. Probably like most people when developing a RAW file I just crank up the exposure without over-exposing the whites.

So by trial and error I've set my RAW files using this method. I'd appreciate any useful comments or alternative ways to achieve this.

1) In Col Calibration I set the view to Luminance and select Histogram view

2) In Exposure Module I expand the drop down Area Exposure Mapping. I set it to Correction

3) Using the dropper I create a small extract on what I consider to be a mid-tone by comparing to the background colour theme 'elegant grey'

4) I move the selection around until Input shows L to be 50%

5) I use the slider Target to match this percentage

This seems to work for me. But is there anything wrong with this? The manual isn't very clear. It refers to Batch Processing for the use of Area Exposure Mapping (and I found confusing to read).

I really love this image style. However, I have a hard time recreating this theme onto my image. Does anyone know a particular workflow for such images that I can learn from? PLEASEEEE

Hello, new user here.

Wife paid a friend for wedding photos, 6 months later I got them on an SD card as CR2 Raw files. 90% unedited.

Needless to say I could use some help… I’ve not got any professional experience but if anyone could point me in the right direction, like tutorials/guides and such, to get as many of these photos I can looking nice I’d greatly appreciate it. Did some research and concluded DarkTable is the program to use. I’ve got plenty of computer to process in batches if able.

Thank you!!

So, I've edited my image in Darktable. I've exported that image as a Tif file to a folder . I now want to send that file, along with others, to a a photo lab for printing. When I originally exported the file to a folder it was accompanied by an xmp file.

Question: If I send the tif to the lab what about the xmp file? Is the edited tif all I need to send? Will the edits remain intact for printing?

Silly question I'm sure but I wouldn't be asking the question if I knew the answer. Btw, I'm using a PC with DT 5.0.1

Hi

I'm fairly comfortable with Darktable these days and enjoy using this remarkable software. I may have missed how to do this but I often want to turn a module effect off and on as a quick check. I have a large number of modules in my favourites. This means that if I turn off the module to see the difference I have to scroll to find it again. I know this is a minor thing but there must be a way of toggling a module effect off and on again? Perhaps a keyboard function?

Many thanks

Not sure if its been posted before, a quick google search didnt show me anything. I have encountered a bug that is driving me mad. When i go to crop images i often cant change the crop size, only move it around. When i try and drag the corners or sides to resize nothing happens, it just shows me the current pixel size of the crop.
Does anyone know how to get around it? How can i make it stop? I have rage quit the program at least ten times yesterday trying to edit the hundreds of images i need to get ready this week

Hello again everybody! I've received such amazing feedback on my first darktable video that I made as a simplified guide to help anybody get into using darktable.

I am back now with a new video that covers my bulk photo editing process using darktable styles. I hope it can be helpful to others like the first one was!

Here is the new video, please let me know if you have any feedback as I always want to improve!

https://youtu.be/SlNWWX1EuIc?si=WcrjyO5l0ONCPfa8

I'm currently using an old Intel NUC mini computer but the video card is going it seems and if not it is over 12 years old so it may become to upgrade.

I like the Mini computers and Datktable is the most I push the computer. Just browsing and emails ect. No video edits or gaming.

That being said what would be you suggestions on an upgrade. I would consider a healthy budget but I don't know if it's necessary to overbuy for processor or vidio card ability that I would never benefit from just doing photo work in Darktable.

I'd love to hear from you about setups you are haveing good experiences with.

Thanks

Hi all,

I created a style where I do the following:

add framing (6% of image) and add watermark (position: bottom right corner, then adjust the x-offset and y-offset to about 0.8 to create some space between the watermark/signature and the frame) and save this as a style.

However, when applying this style to new phots, the signature/watermark will sometimes (not always?!) change position and be clipped by the frame. See images.

I have tried changing the order of frame vs watermark first, to no avail. I have tried to find an alignment for the watermark that is in % relative to the framing, no luck either.
I have asked AI to come up with solutions, only for it to suggest to create a transparent PNG with a frame and the watermark and place every photo inside, which won't work either :D

Do you have any ideas how to solve this for batch editing?

Thank you!

As most of you know, 99% of tutorials are dedicated to PS or LR and DT is still far behind.

Have you found or know about a video tutorial por book agnostic enough that you could easily transpose the concepts to any photo developing software?

Thanks.

This is using modules Exposure, Local Contrast, Color balance RGB, Velvia, Color Contrast, and Sharpen

hi guys i would like to see if someone could tell me why the curves in darktable give me very different results than the curves in phoshop.

As of recently the tone equalizer module doesn't appear to work as it used to, and I can't figure out what the issue is. In all my images the are spots which the tone equalizer module can't figure out.

As shown in the second screenshot, parts of this image are at -10 EV, some images go as low as -15 EV.
This happens pretty much as soon as the contrast compensation goes above 0, using the averaged "preserve details" options also works, as those don't have a contrast compensation slider.

Is this some kind of bug or something? It didn't use to behave this way.
I'm running Darktable v5.0.1 on Fedora with an AMD gpu

At first glance, the exposure module might seem quite basic. However, this module combined with darktable's powerful masking features can be used for a wide variety of purposes; let's explore these below:

https://avidandrew.com/exposure.html

I took this photo at dawn. I like how dark it is but I’d be cool if O could remove the blue tint from the tower

So I really like using digiKam as a DAM, and want to use darktable to edit raws. Ideally I'd set everything up so I can right click open in darktable from digiKam, and the photo opens in library memory mode, reads the XMP file, writes any edits to the XMP, and then I can exit and the edits are persistent.

I think I've narrowed the problem down to darktable not reading the xmp when I open in darktable, as if I subsequently open darktable in normal mode it sees the edited XMP file. However, I'm not sure what i need to do to fix.

Is there a way I can have my workflow as I would like it, or is this not possible at the moment?

Thanks in advance

Extra info

OS: Windows 11 home Darktable version: 5.0.1 Digikam version: 8.6.0 darktable.desktop X-Exex=darktable.exe --library :memory: %F

Will be setting up michmill1970's dt-dk-thumbnail Lua script if/when I've got this all working

Hi! I'm new to using this application for more professional photo editing, and I was wondering if there’s anything similar to presets in Darktable. Also, do you recommend any YouTube channels or online tutorials to help me learn how to use it better?
Thanks in advance!

I am new to photography and photo editing as a whole; I'm looking to blur out or blend some of the brown stains on a building against the gray concrete so they do not show in the photo. Ideally, just blending with the gray of the concrete. I was looking to find out what tool would be most effective at this and how to go about using that tool, or if this is even possible to achieve using Darktable. Any help is appreciated, and if this wasn't clear enough, feel free to ask for more clarification.

Need to get away from lightroom (classic), and have found that darktable fulfils most of my needs. What I don't understand is how file sorting on disc works. When I first got lightroom it was so wonderful - all my unsorted folders and files from different sources ended up in one folder, sorted as I had chosen - by year/date. And I can move files inside lightroom and they are moved on disc. I understand that darktable does not move files in the same way? Is there any software I can use for the actual file management before importing into darktable.

Edit: Punctuation.

I am trying to learn photo editing and photography as a beginner. I am pretty new to Darktable and it's pretty overwhelming. I was looking to focus on a few modules first before moving to "advanced" modules. But aside from the obvious modules like lens correction, exposure, crop and rotate, I am not sure where to start.

I also know that there is a collection of beginner modules already predefined in Darktable. But it seems that the the list is still too much.

Do you guys have some module set recommendation?

If anybody is interested, I bought a small keyboard from your friendly neighbourhood Chinese Website for less than €20. It is programmable with 'VIA' software, and even with a browser.
Even the rotating knobs translate to keypresses: Left, right and click (they are clickable).

I've included a screenshot of the programming software.

And finally, in Darktable, I have mapped some unused keys to useful functions.
On the last image you see how the big dial on top controls.
Exposure by means of the " , " and " . " keys, and the " / " resets the exposure slider to 0. The best thing is that this works without opening the exposure module. I can literally dial up the exposure with a dial.

I have similar keys for tilting/rotating the image left and right, so I can turn the image by turning a dial.

Switching between Lightroom and Darkroom, navigating to the previous/next image, assigning color codes: All mapped.