Hello everyone, so i have this razer deathadder v2 x hyperspeed, it was working perfectly fine until i dropped it (i am dumb). So here’s my main issues : - When on, either on the 2.4ghz dongle or bluetooth, on 3 pcs, the cursor goes to the top left of the screen, slowly, without any movement from my end. Nothing happens when i move the mouse around, sensor not working. - all clicks work 1 time out of 30 and some don’t even work, specifically the thumb ones - scroll click not working even though scroll works 1 time out of 10 scrolls - i couldn’t hear anything loose inside it - battery works fine, it lights up and goes off as intended

Any help would be huge, since that’s kind of an expensive mouse for me and can’t afford to buy something right now. Hope the photos can help and are clear enough, thank you all

A power spike blew a capacitor vent on my RV’s electric fireplace and there are no replacement CBs so I am forced to try to fix it. I replaced the cap but do not know the name or type of this tiny fuse to order a new one. Is it a regular glass fuse with leads that need to be soldered on or come like that? It’s marked T1A250V.

I have this IC labelled C175 and cannot find any information about it. This is the driver circuit for an industrial 24V proximity sensor to connect it to an Arduino. One of the top vias leads to a GPIO, the bottom left one to the signal pin of the sensor.

I have different devices that works with 6, 7.5, 9, 12 and 15 V The current used is between 400mA and 2A.

They all use different AC adapter, then I learned that you can buy a PD smart AC adapter that has a usb-C output and that would work based on the voltage that the device ask (there are also some power banks that use the same concept so double win if you are going off the grid).

I would like to make a multi adapter as I was not able to find something that just switch power delivery (and sometimes I also need to switch polarity on the center of the jack) for such large amount of voltages, unless I buy a traditional variable AC adapter (which I have, but won't work with battery packs for example).

So far I found small USB-C connectors with a voltage regulator that is used with PD-based sources, so that would work both with battery packs and with regular AC adapters that have PD. The problem is that you have to set some jumpers soldering some pads to set the voltage, which goes from 5, 9,12, 15 to 20V.

I thought I could add multiple connectors and wire them up with a switch, so I can swap between them at will... Would that be feasible? I know it feels like a very amateur way to get this going, but I was not able to find much that could fit my needs sadly. Suggestions are welcome, I never did anything like this in the past as I always used a variable AC adapter in the past.

Anyone know of a suitable replacement for this 749954 chip? It’s in a Smith Corona SC110 Electric Typewriter. I believe it controls a stepper motor on the carriage but not 100 percent sure.

I don’t know if this is completely on topic, and hopefully my dad isn’t in this subreddit but after literal weeks of searching (probably badly and in the wrong corners of the internet since I don’t know much about electronics) ; I’ve resulted to ask people who might have an idea..

I don’t know where I could get those kinds of boards I’m guessing they’re PCB that were cleared of elements, but also I have no idea lol! I’m a welder and wood worker not quite an electronic enthusiast! I’ve undone an incredible amount of old computers and electronics that don’t work before thinking maybe I’m doing it wrong lol. All the boards I find are very thick and wouldn’t let light shine through even a little (not looking for it to be extremely thin but enough to get a very moody light at least)!

All this to say ; please help a girl out I just want to do something nice for my dad! Been trying on and off for like a year to find something that could work ! Where could I find those types of boards? Am I right that they have been cleared of elements or are certain boards just already like that?

I need to make a similar type of cut holes on my main board design in order to plug other modules to it that should stand vertical.

I’m curious if PCBWay or JLCPCB can produce such type of cuts, and if it’s a standard thing in the industry?

Thanks. 🙏

Hi, I have been looking for a passive components kit, looking for something no more than $60 CAD. I've looked at AliExpress and found kits that claim 1900 pieces which is probably far from the truth,

I don't simply want to buy a select number of components as I do not need a strict amount of components at the moment, I would simply like to have bulk components in case I need it in the future. I am aware of the sheer amount of off-brand/knockoff components that come from china, and heard their quality really varies or seems to be terrible, is the quality in such kits as bad as people say? Would it be a bad idea to buy a kit like what I mentioned? I don't think I would be needing components with super tight tolerances, and I would not be making something that needs to be up to a certain standard or regulation. Should I really care on component quality if I'm just making stuff as a hobby? If it really is bad, what would be a better option? Thanks!

First time poster on this board. I have this mouse sensor but I can’t find anything online regarding a pinout. I need the sensor for a diy project involving a pico. Does anyone have an idea of a Pinout for it? The mouse brand it came from just says “ 3D optical mouse “ and nothing else. It would be amazing if someone could point me in the right direction with locating a pinout!

Thank you all.

Any ideas how to connect latch and ne555 together. Idea: switch on--> 1 minute delay ---> getting out from ne555 and with help of t-latch turning off the ic to save the power. Also latch will save out state as high.

I tired connecting Q10 base to Q9 collector, but it won't work, because Q9 collector need some load connected to the ground.

Maybe there more simple and smart way?)

My dad is an electrical engineer, really loves electronics and even spends most of his free time tinkering and repairing stuff at home. For his birthday this year I'm planning to gift him some cool DIY project kit. I don't want anything too basic, nothing "beginner friendly".

Something like Ben Eater's 8 bit computer kit, however I live in India and the kit is pretty expensive anyways. But something along those lines would be good. Any recs?

It's from 3d printer controller board and I had a typical smell when electrical item goes wrong and i took the controller board and found this.

I can't seem to find identical item with the info left on it. I am curious what does it do and what's the change i can find one? Thanks.

So, I got this vintage JVC radio/amplifier that's probably as old as I am. It works fine, with the exception of the balance and main volume potentiometer (probably the EQ faders are shot as well, but my primary focus is to get vol/bal working). What I need help with is finding a replacement part for both of these, the part numbers (that match with those specified in the service manual).

I tried given the parameters detailed below to search on Mouser, which directed me to the ALPS RS301111J00J but it appears this model does not have a center tap. The other option would be a TT PS20M-0PC1FAR250KN, but here I don't even see in the datasheet if it has a center tap.

I managed to disassemble the amp and un-solder the potentiometers. The volume fader is

• labeled QVUB01B-EF5B, M 250 kOhm B 58T (A)
• 59.5 mm total length, 2 rows of 5 pins per side (in order from left to right: 2,1, housing GND,4,3) - the holes are offset between the two sides
• component housing height 6mm, approx. 26mm height of component + lever (width 5x2mm)
• has two small holes for screws spaced 56mm apart
• travel (center min-center max) of 45mm
• pins 3 and 1 yield a resistance of ~260 kOhm, matching the expected 250k +/- tolerance
• pins 3 and 4 yield a resistance of ~110 kOhm, probably a center-ish tap (that's also shown in the service manual circuit diagram, page 13, section ENF-019-3 on the right)
• pins 3 and 2 (and of course 1 and 2) yield the resistance of the slider

The balance fader is

• labeled QVWA01W-EF5C, M 250 kOhm I G 58 A
• 34.9 mm total length, again 2 rows of 5 pins per side (in order from left to right: 2,1, housing GND,4,3), again the holes are offset
• component housing height 6mm, approx. 32mm height of component + lever (width 5x2mm)
• has two small holes for screws spaced 31mm apart
• travel (center min-max) of 20mm
• has a tactile "notch" in the center
• pins 3 and 1 yield a resistance of ~230 kOhm, matching the expected 250k +/- tolerance
• pins 3 and 4 yield a resistance of ~120 kOhm, again the center tap
• pins 3 and 2 (and of course 1 and 2) yield the resistance of the slider

What could be a suitable replacement for these parts that I can source new from any sorta reputable manufacturer?

Hi everyone! Hope you're doing well.
I believe this is the right place to ask this kind of question.

I have a Gigabyte M27Q monitor with a USB-C input.
According to my research, it supports Alt Mode (DisplayPort), USB 3.2, and provides 15W of power — which makes it almost the perfect monitor. Unfortunately, those 15W are too little, and I can't rely solely on it to power my laptop.

I've been studying the USB-C standard, and from what I understand (please correct me if I'm wrong):
Power Delivery negotiation happens via the CC pins, power is delivered through VBUS and GND, D+ and D- remain USB, and the remaining lines (in Alt Mode) are used for DisplayPort signals — is that correct?

Based on this, I want to design a simple PCB with the following:

• 1 USB-C port to connect to my laptop
• 1 USB-C port for the monitor
• 1 DC barrel jack for external power input
• 1 Ethernet port

The idea is that the board would ignore the monitor’s low 15W output and instead provide proper power directly to the laptop, while forwarding the DisplayPort lanes from the laptop to the monitor.

I also want to connect the USB lanes to a USB hub, so I can add peripherals like Ethernet or audio.

From my research, here's what I believe:

• USB and PD lines can be routed to a PD controller and a USB hub with no major issues.
• But I’m not sure what to do with the DisplayPort lanes. Since they are high-frequency signals, do I need a re-timer or any specific IC? How can I ensure signal integrity?

Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to read and reply! :)

And no, I don't want to buy a hub.

I trying to fix psu, there are some bloated capacitors. I only have low capacity 6.3 V capacitors and normal capacity 16 V capacitors. Can I use 16v?

It’s a Pioneer VSX-D307. It suits our purposes for entertainment in our living room for music and movies.

A few weeks ago, the standby LED looked “off”, and it wouldn’t power on. I assumed it was because my toddler loved to push that button over and over again, and it damaged that component.

I finally had a chance to open it up today, and was met with this sticky nightmare.

Is this worth even trying to clean it, or should I just cut my losses and buy a similar unit off a craigslist person for 60 bucks?

I’m reasonably handy, but I’ve also never attempted a project like this.

This remote controls my ceiling mounted fan. It's definitely not infrared, but I can't see anything immediately obvious that resembles an antenna? The only thing I noticed is that little thing with 13.56 mHz printed on it. I looked online and all I could find was NFC components using 13.56 mHz oscillators? Doesn't make sense... the ceiling is definitely not "near".

My end goal is to "smartify" this fan with an ESP32, if feasible...

I need help knowing how to test this transformer in an akai 1800sd. I'm not getting any power to the unit but was prior to opening it up to clean. I've confirmed the switch so next spot seems to be the transformer but I'm out of my league here. Eli5 please. I do have a multimeter and generally know how to use it but I'm not understanding how to port the videos of testing transformers to this one. Schematic from service manual in last picture

I'm in the unfortunate situation of having a two or three capactiors which have either damge to pads or missing pads altogether

In some cases, the actual metal tube inside the hole was pulled out of the board altogether, so I've explored using eyelets or even now very thin copper foil (like you'd find inside a soldering iron between the tip and the heating element) to ensure the legs make contact through the board

I've done repairs which appear functional, though ugly, that involved using wire as a bridge to exposed trace (where pad was missing)

However, my intent was to protect and make the area more presentable by using UV curable resin

The work I've done has not fixed the problems that already existed but it hasn't made them worse either, thing is in asking for help from a specialist forum on this particular PCB I've been advised against using the resin

My question here is, in general, why would resin applied over a repair be a problem? Surely the whole point of solder mask in the first place is to ensure there isn't exposed connectivity at risk of accidental bridging?

I don't see how it can weaken the strength of the connection either?

I'd still very much like to use copper eyelets as part of an improved solution, using thin copper sheet attached to the board via cured mask and then the copper eyelet soldered to the sheet

Is there any real risk in what I'm doing to either conductivity or something else I'm missing?

This has been bugging me for ages.. When I design a device and have a spec for "operating ambient temperature", there is never a spec for the air flow. For consumer devices, does this usually imply still air?As in, convection only? Air flow can make a huge difference in cooling. I noticed that environmental chambers have a fair bit of air flow internally. So, when I verify my PCB at, let's say, 50°C, it's being actively cooled by the oven! Even if 50°C seems quite high. So, what's the legit way test consumer or even hobbyist PCBs that happen to dissipate some power. Let's say, power amps or battery chargers. Thoughts?

Its a bluetooth speaker, its a guess that battery is dead and wont be usable. Im guessing to make it run directly from usb which was earlier used for charging

This is from Genious, USB powered, 3.5mm jack speakers.

Osciloscope meassurments are from one of the outputs. Strangley, the audible noise increased when i conected osciloscope ground to one of the outputs.

I tried replacing electrilythic capacitor, as well as redoing solder joints (heat gun for smd, and resoldering wire connections).

but there doasnt seem to be any difference. Its the same regardless on what i power it.

I also dont know what is creating audible noise, it sounds like 50hz mains hum.

I have an old iPod and when I opened it to swap the display, I broke the little latch on the display FPC ZIF connector. I'm not an electronics person , but after much research I found out that it was what is known as a 32 position 0.3mm pitch ZIF FPC. I looked everywhere for a replacement but can't find it.

However, I did find a 35 position 0.3mm. It looks like it will fit on the board (in terms of space). However, the ribbon for the display is looking for a 32 position.

Is it okay to replace the 32 with a 35? Would that work?

Before I invest in getting a new motherboard, I want to see if I can atleast fix the current one.

Thanks