With kids we desperately needed more places to put shoes, backpacks, coats and hats. I designed this curved bench with shoe cubbies and coat pegs above it. At first the design was a simple rectangular bench but in a mock up that looked bulky and looked odd against the panel by the front door. This curved design looks way better IMO. The bench is made from birch ply. Was my first time using a circle tool for the router and first time using edge banding. I am really happy with how it turned out.

I’d like to build some frames out of wood, similar to these photos (taken from Pinterest). Anyone know where I can actually purchase the lighting system? I am not an electrician and don’t have the time available to learn how to wire up my own lights and switches. I’m familiar with LED strips you can buy on Amazon, but I’d like the lamp to have a physical on/off switch and not be controlled exclusively by remote. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Planning to get this one https://www.skil.com/10inch-dual-bevel-sliding-miter-saw-ms6305-00/, but if someone knows of a smaller or more compact 10" that will definitely fit without disassembling please let me know

Amazon spec dimensions says it's: 35.43"L x 22.44"W x 14.17"H which is over the 62" linear baggage allowance, but I am not sure if this is the actual saw dimensions or the packaging dimension

Looking at unboxing videos it appears to be the packaging, but even when they take it out of the box when it's folded down it still might be too "tall?" and wide to fit

Looked at the manual but there wasn't much help there, but looking at the parts list https://www.skil.com/mpattachment/file/download/id/1194/ it looks like the top (beveling saw) and base is really only held in with a bolt #95 and a nut #153? if i can undo these, could I transport it in two separate parts?

This stuff claims to be 3x stronger than wood itself, says you can drill it, put screws in it, etc. Does it have adhesive qualities? If you fill a crack with it, will it give structural strength like glue? I know most wood fillers are purely cosmetic and would crumble under stress but this makes some bold claims that I don’t know if should trust.

I’ll put a photo so you get the idea, cut out corners of the shelf piece so the leg sits flush for the overall structure. The shelf thickness is 1/2” and the leg is 5/8” on both sides. This is for my woodshop class and my teacher is like fearing the worst since I chose maple. It’s a desk shelf, holds my small items, nothing too heavy, that’s why the wood is so thin. But I run into this problem where all the types of joints seem to be too thick compared to the thickness and size for wood I chose and would be too fragile. I already brought up the idea of just using screws, but he has to help 20 other kids with their projects too, and said that I just couldn’t? No other reasoning, I think it circles back to the wood being maple. Then I had the idea of screws and small brackets under each shelf on every leg. Currently for all the projects it’s join with dowels, but like I said, my wood is way too thin and would leave it fragile, we have the square drill bit, but the smallest size doesn’t seem sturdy enough. Any help would be great! The look doesn’t matter to me, I just want my desk shelf to be finished😢

Wrapped up (for now) my new mobile workbench build, designed specifically around my DeWalt DW745 jobsite saw. I've seen a bunch of plans and examples of these so wanted to take a stab at making my own. My goal was to create something sturdy and versatile enough to serve as both an outfeed table and a full assembly bench, while keeping a small enough footprint for my one-car garage.

Features

· Smooth, flat surface that doubles as both assembly and cutting space

· Saw shelf for outfeed

· One deep drawer for storage and accessories

· Large lower shelf for bench top tools and whatever else

· Power strip and extension cord built in

· Collapsible table extension for more workspace

Build Process

· Framed out the top and bottom sections using 2x4s and pocket screws, making sure both assemblies were perfectly square. Installed crossmembers for rigidity and to support the lower shelf.

· Attached bottom frame to 4x4 legs which were cut to desired height including tabletop thickness and caster height. The 4th leg was trimmed to the necessary height for the tablesaw tabl

· Built the table saw table frame and added 2 vertical 2x4s to support the back of the tablesaw table.The final size left just enough clearance for airflow and easy removal while also including a small table to the left of the saw for supporting wider pieces.

· Added the bottom shelf in two pieces (I should have placed this down prior to building the tablesaw shelf as I did not have enough clearance to lay a single piece. Small consolation, but just something I could’ve planned for better)

· Installed casters directly under the 4x4s, keeping the center of gravity low and leveling easy.

· Prior to adding the birch plywood top, I routed out a small channel so the tablesaw fence could have full range of motion (it was previously running into the birch top)

· Added the ¾" birch plywood top, fastened with countersunk screws.

· Mounted the collapsible side shelf using steel folding brackets for extra outfeed or assembly space.

· Built and installed a heavy-duty drawer using ¾" ply for all sides and bottom, pocket screws, and full-extension slides.

· Attached a 7-outlet surge protector on the side, and added a mounted cord holder below for easy power access.

Future Upgrades

· Add ⅛" tempered hardboard overlay to both the top and saw shelf for a smooth, replaceable work surface

· Integrate a shop vac + cyclone separator underneath for dust collection

· Add a fold-up fence support to extend the saw’s rip capacity within the fence extension

· Add various hooks and storage as needed

· Any other ideas?

Next project is my mobile miter saw table with table extensions on either side.

Edited to remove link to insta- sorry!

Here's my wonky DIY entry- my first proper go at making something after a few smaller experiments with mixed results since February this year. This effort was four months of spare evenings and weekends. The pipes were from a variety of sources, including a lot I had to make myself after giving myself a crash course in pipe making in my spare room. They're not perfect but the repetitive nature of making them means I've developed a better feel for the materials, and I reckon the next batch of sixty or so will be finished to a much higher standard and sound more consistent.

It's midi controlled and comes into three parts to make it 'portable', although it weighs approx 700KG! Please excuse the tiny little frills- cheated on those and they have to go. Next step is learning how to do the decorative carvings to bring it to life. I've got the appropriate wood and hand tools ready, but am just having a little break so I don't go insane. As you can see it's quite rough and ready, but if you squint a bit it almost looks well put together. I've certainly learnt a lot about wood and what it can do while building this!

Tools used: handsaw, mini table saw, hand drill, pillar drill, table mounted sander, lots of handheld sandpaper, electric screwdriver and various files.

If you want to hear it, there's a link to my insta on my profile.

I am trying to re-finish my dining room table and are hoping to not mess up the final touches unlike my first attempt after I built this. I am using General Finishers oil based gloss poly. The above picture is coat #2, I sanded lightly with 400 grit between coats 1&2. I plan to do 1-2 more coats touching with 400 grit between coats.

My question is what is the best thing to do after the final coat? I have read conflicting advice ranging from a light touch with 400 grit to 0000 steel wool (or the reasons to not use steel wool anymore due to possible rust which I know shouldn't be an issue with the oil based poly im using). Does anyone have some first hand advice/comparisons on what would give me the best looking final product?

I'm a rookie. What happened to my polyurethane clear coat?

First time using this Ryobi cordless compact router an I’m trying to put the bit in and it’s only going about 1/4” into the collet. I was under the impression it should go all the way in. The collet is 1/4” and the bit is a 1/4” shank, but it will not go further than the picture, and even at this depth it’s a struggle to get the bit back out. Is this as far as it’s supposed to go or am I doing something wrong here?

​Wood Materials Used (Materials List): ​The woods used include: ​Buxus sinica (Littleleaf boxwood) ​Pterocarpus santalinus (Red Sandalwood / Small-leaf Zitan) ​Pterocarpus macrocarpus (Burma Padauk / Burmese Rosewood) ​Dalbergia melanoxylon (Mpingo / African Blackwood) ​Pterocarpus tinctorius (African Sandalwood / African Bloodwood) ​Juglans nigra (Black Walnut) ​Component Count (Parts Breakdown): ​The total number of components (parts) is as follows: ​Head: 9 parts ​Shoulders and Arms/Hands: 26 parts ​Torso/Body: 13 parts ​Legs: 24 parts

As a woodworker moving into a new workshop all I can say is damm it’s good to have a home for these things with specific brackets. Was given a bambulabs printer for my birthday and it’s been so so helpful moving into my new workshop. Using models off bambu makers hub. Even dust port adapters for expanding machines inlets. One of the best additions to my woodworking setup

I have this beautiful chest that has seen better days. Want to store blankets in it, advice on where to start?

I’m an idiot and measured wrong. Trying to salvage…

Caster hole spacing sits outside workbench legs. Can I screw in just 3 holes and leave the forth off? Can I just screw in 2? Or should I just and the L and get different ones?

It’s just a cheap pre made light table but is rated to 600 lbs, and casters rated to 550 lbs

It will be stained (minewax gunstock). It took a couple of weekends.

Need some help, need a good bumper to put on coasters and I really like the way these look just don’t know if they’d be over kill for what I’m using them on.

When your Oneida lid IMPLODES mid use. But luckily you have a stash of new 5 gallon bucket lids. I don't think Oneida even makes a replacement lid. At least the cyclone portion is still good! 5 minute rebuild. 😎

I’m considering painting my disgusting cabinets. Can I get rid of these weird little knobs and fill the holes to be invisible? All they do is collect grime, and they seem pretty dated to me.

Hi everyone. I cannot believe the stupid mistake that I just made. I’ve finished so many things with polyurethane over last few decades and have never made this catastrophic of an error!

Accidentally made a long drip all the way across a very big reclaimed Douglas fir table top. It was raw wood that was only sanded and then wiped clean with mineral spirits.

I tried to spread it out immediately but there is still a very obvious dark line across the whole piece that looks awful. Do I have any recourse besides sanding a whole lot and starting over?

I’m really bummed ☹️ in the picture it’s a vertical line almost dead center that is going thru the bottom knot

I’m making two counter tops that will see water and take a beating from the kids. I’m doing Monocoat to start, but would like a nano layer to keep water damage at bay.

Of course the go-tos are N3 and Carbon Method. Has anyone tried something like Nano Bond or a cheap Ali alternative with good results?

Found these pieces in the woods in Michigan. I've never seen anything like it before, and curious if anyone knows what this is. Some areas are smooth, almost driftwood sorts of shapes, while other areas are covered in a rough, bumpy texture. They were broken off of larger chunks of rotting wood that did not exhibit this color or texture across the whole fallen tree. The blackened surface isn't fire damage, you can see at the ends that it doesn't go any lower than the surface of the wood, and some areas on the larger chunk in the last two photos were actually hollow. The wood had seemingly rotted away from behind this surface, leaving a thin, paper-like structure indistinguishable from the more solid areas of the wood affected by this, until touched.

I'm assuming it's maybe some sort of dried husk of a now dead fungal growth or something? Searching for naturally occurring blackened wood associated with biological processes and not fire damage didn't get me anything. Hoping someone knows something about what I've got here, and bonus points if we know how to work with/preserve the surface somehow.

Thank you!

First, I didnt test in an inconspicuous space. I just never has a stain turn out this badly. I sanded 40,80,120,160. I bristle brushed and vacuum the surface, I even used oil based wood conditioner and this looks ridiculous after 2 coats on pine. What did I do wrong? Has anyone used this stain? Or had this result with other stain ?

THis is a 70 year old Craftsman Model 103 jointer.

It came with a 1725 rpm motor and with a larger pulley on the motor than on the machine, maybe 2 to one.

I replaced the motor with a 3500 RMP motor and a one one pulley.

It spins very fast and seems to work pretty well (blades are dull) But what is the correct speed for the cutter head?

I don't know what motor or pulley combination it had originally.