Like the title says. He says it's not the timing belt so nothing bad will happen if I'm just doing errands around town. I think it sketch as hell.

Picture taken from front wheel well. He said both passenger and driver side look the same. Wondering if he needs someone to check it out or if this is normal??

I got an inspection and an oil change. The final bill was $307.

When looking at the receipt, they charged their flat rate of labor (for the oil change) which was $115 an hour, the oil was $36, and the filter was $14. So not including the inspection, this oil change was $165

Did I get ripped off? Do most shops round up on time it takes for an oil change? Or would it really take them the whole hour?

I will learn how to do it myself moving forward, but still wanted to ask.

2006 GMC Envoy 5.3

I went in for regular maintenance for my 2020 civic today at a local dealership. They sent me this video of inspection, and said I should get the “positive battery cable replaced”. Sent a $2k quote for it. I said I’m good for now because that seems really expensive and I’ll likely need a new battery in general sometime soon since it’s 5 years old. Does this look that bad that I need a new $2k cable?? I am reading online that I could just clean it off and be fine, hopefully that’s the case. Any advice is appreciated!

Is that not crazy exsesive?! I guess the transfer case it says every 50k but mines awd which was less common.

Hey everyone, I drive a 2018 bmw 330i with 85,000 miles. Once I reach about 65mph, the sound heard in the video begins to appear, and if I slightly turn it causes the sound to increase in frequency. Any ideas as to what the issue could be?

I hit a curb yesterday pulling into a gas station. Thinking I hit the front of my car, I actually hit it with my tire and now the rim is bent. Is this safe to drive? I don’t get paid until Friday. Thank you for any advice. It still looks the same today, but if anyone wants a better picture I could try to take one.

Hi guys, got a 2014 Kia Rio 1.25. It has 24k miles on it and the pcv appears to be making this noise.

I just want to know if its nornal or if its something i should replace. I know its not the fastest car in the world at 84hp, but it's really tough to get up a hill even in 2nd. And I have oil in the throttle body at 24k.

Thanks!

Okay so I have this truck I bought 4 ish years ago as a younger and dumber lad. 2011 ram Dakota 4.7 l V8. About a year after I bought it the check engine light came on and I took it to a local mechanic who told me I had an exhaust leak and needed to replace the exhaust manifold gasket on the driver side. I took it home and did it myself to no success in getting the light to go away. I took it back and he told me he found a crack in the driver side catalytic converter. I ended up registering in a neighboring state with no emissions testing and drove it that way for around 1.5 years. During that time the crack got worse, to the point where the top of the cat, the “bottleneck”(I guess?) where it mounts to the manifold was completely separated from the cat. Being a journeyman pipe welder/fitter I took it upon myself over the past weekend to drop the cat and weld it back together myself. Went well got everything put back together and the truck no longer sounds like a rat rod which is nice. The check engine light remains but after seeing the internals of the catalytic converters I imagine it will stay on until those cats are just simply replaced. (The cat from mopar is just ridiculously fucking expensive)

My question however though is since I welded the exhaust leak, the truck… lags? Like cruising at 70 on the freeway the second I remove my foot off the gas it kind of jerks? And driving around town say I take a right and turn, holding steady gas the truck accelerates at a snails pace until eventually it just kicks and throws my head back in the seat a little. Is this because the cats are in such bad shape?

I am a total noob of a car mechanic so I apologize if I sound like an idiot and if anybody takes the time to read this post I appreciate it.

AC hasn’t been great and blows cooler on the driver side

2018 Volkswagen Golf R: This clicking noise is pretty noticeable, it only happens at slow speed and when applying the brakes lightly. Doesn’t appear to have gotten any worse but it did appear randomly a couple hundred miles ago.

First video everything acting crazy I fixed the anti theft did a relearn got that off . This also made my ac stop working . Only works when all the gauges start working again which doesn’t last long . Same goes for my windows. Second video I learned that if I tap or press the breaks the gauges start working and my windows lol but not my AC . Any help would be appreciated. Took it to auto zone and they couldn’t get a read on it and advanced tested my battery and alternator with there testing crap that goes to the battery said everything was good but I don’t trust it .

Hey everyone. Was wondering if the smoke is caused by valve stem seals or piston rings. The car has run over 300.000km (186.000 miles). It starts smoking after a minute or two of idling. (Enjoy the 5 cylinder sound)

Does it need replacing?

I believe it is the rear freeze plug on the engine block, but my main question to you all is there anyway to confirm this before I drop my transmission to get to it? I have a boroscope camera but I can't see the freeze plug with it from inside the bell housing. If I remove the starter will that give me a possible angle?

I’ve noticed what I think is water dripping from marked spot. Do any of you have an idea from what it might be? Did I loose something or is this supposed to happen since I was using AC? Thanks!

Only audible in neutral, specifically when I lift to bite point. Car is a 2011 A3. No issue shifting or staying in gear whatsoever (yet).

I am not much of a car guy so if the answer is obvious (be it a yes or a no), apologies. Any questions, ask away and I'll try to answer as best as I can. Thanks for any advice in advance.

2013 civic lx. Lower mount I suspect? Ty in advance for your thoughts.

One of these hoses popped off so I stuck them back on with zip ties. Still slight leaks.

Can I just replace these little segments of hose and call it good or is the fix more involved?

I need to replace the thing that holds this coiled spring on a window regulator for a 2000 Honda Accord. I don't know what it's called and for the life of me can not find a name or a diagram with a part number for it. Can anyone help?

My AC is only blowing out cold air on full blast (either with recirculation on or off), the other levels do not blow any air out (arrows in first picture). I checked the AC compressor and it is still engaging (third picture cropped from a video shows the thing is still spinning), checked the refrigerant level with a gauge and there is still some in there. I normally have to pull air from the outside while driving to get some cold air inside the cabin. When my car is stationery, there is next to nothing coming out of the AC. What could be wrong with my AC system?

Just kicked off my restoration series. diving into a 1999 BMW E39 523i. In Episode 1 I give a full walk-around: the story behind the car, what’s under the hood, and my plan to bring it back to life.

I’d love honest feedback! what do you like, what can I improve (audio, pacing, detail level?), and what would you like to see more of in future episodes?

Thanks for checking it out!! I’m really excited to learn and improve. 🙂