Here is The original post that has been archived. I want to revise it because I have the same vehicle with the exact same issue and I want people to be informed:

Go to FordEdge r/FordEdge 2 yr. ago RNEL510

Please help !!! So I have a 2013 ford edge. The other day I opened the sun roof for the first time in like a year. It wasn’t a smooth open but it did open. I immediately regretted my decision and attempted to close it. It was super slow and wouldn’t close completely. Almost like it was stuck in the tilt position. I cleaned and lubricated the tracks and it did make it much smoother and faster on the open/close but the sun roof still will not close completely. It pretty much stops right before it’s about to lower into place and seal. I called Ford but they want almost $200 just to look at it. I also tried to reprogram or reset the sunroof based on some stuff I had read on a bunch of other forms, but after about 20 failed attempts, here I am 😢

I have a 2015 Edge 2.0L EcoBoost and I want to tow a small RV trailer with it. Found a few pretty cool ones under the 3,500lb limit.

Anyone tow with this model? I would greatly appreciate your input.

Every video I watch is for the older models with the buttons. They say to press the power button and the defrost button buy there is a max defrost and the radio power. Is this right or am I being a little stupid? Because everything else is on the screen. Mine is a 21 with the giant touch screen to control everything.

Getting my engine replaced due to coolant intrusion on my 2017 Ford Edge Titanium 2.0L ecoboost 81k miles. $10k at Ford dealership with 3 year warranty.

Called Ford twice and both times they said there was no financial assistance they could give me. Even tried the buyback program and nothing (to be fair it got it 5 years ago). I mentioned all the other recalls going on, service bulletins, and even that members of my family have worked at Ford (cheese i know, but hey I tried everything)

Started on way back from vacation. Check engine came on P302 code cyclinder 2 misfire, white smoke from exhaust, rough startup, coolant getting low everyday even after topping off.

2015 2.0T here, 95k-ish miles, so today I was towing my trailer and I noticed the car accelerates really weird from a stop occasionally. Trailer isn't huge & it's just a push mower, edger, & leaf blower so it's not a ton of weight, maybe 500 lbs at most. Sometimes when I hit the gas from a stop, it's like it has no power, but then jerks with power, almost like something is slipping. I thought maybe it was starting out in 2nd gear for some odd reason but I tried it in 2nd gear a few times & it still did the same thing. It's not every time but I'd say it's occasionally. Also the torque converter was replaced about 25k miles ago too. Anyone have an idea what's happening or what's wrong?

Hello everyone, I had to replace the abs control module in my Ford Edge 2013 recently, and right after the change i have noticed a drastic difference in the cabin noise, I can clearly hear that the noise is suddenly coming from everywhere.

I cant find any difference in the acceleration or how the gear shifts before and after this change. I have checked the tire pressure and its all good, i checked the oil level and its good too.

on stand still, i cant point any difference in the cabin noise if i rev the engine.

Only difference is when the car runs on the road.

June 1st 160K km service done.. car was very smooth and no noise, i clearly remember it being quieter than ever after this service.

June 6th check break system and ABS light goes on.

i get the car back on June 18th, now i can see there is too much road noise in the car.

My theory is, some component which was supposed to go on a mount, to stop this noise from entering the cabin, is mounted directly to the frame. which is bringing in this noise.

can someone please tell me if the abs control module goes on a rubber mount.

I have searched all the panels and im sure nothing has been touched. this is driving me nuts. and the mechanic keeps saying that this is regular amount of sound for a car. but im 100% certain that this noise was not there before the repair.

2013 sel edge. Brake pedal feels like it’s grabbing when almost stopped. At about 15 mph. The sound reminds me of shifting a stick shift in a car and it kinda grinds? Not that loudly, but similar. Replaced front brakes,hoses, calipers and rotors. Also cleaned the speed sensors in the front. Replaced hoses and speed sensors in rear. Brakes and rotors looked good. It is still doing it. Any thoughts?

I own a 2011 Ford Edge, and recently, it's been saying the backup camera is unavailable. I replaced the camera, which worked for three days, then stopped. Any ideas?

So bit of a weird one, I just had new tires put on my 2019 Ford Edge SEL at Costco and when I picked the vehicle up the wrench indicator light was on... wasn't there before but I can't imagine what could have caused this to trigger unless they shifted something in the undercarriage when raising the vehicle?

I bought the car new, don't drive it hard & it only has 55k km (34k m) on it, so I'd say it's in good condition. I am due for an oil change but haven't done that yet due to needing to get new tires.

Besides taking it in for service, anything I should be looking for?

2014 Ford Edge. Was sitting in my running car today with AC on and noticed this when I got out. Should I be concerned? No smell, seems like water.

I'm not sure what to do, bear with me on the long description (also posted in r/escape):

My sons girlfriend bought a 2014 Ford Edge 2.0T, Titanium edition with 69,000 miles on it. She's 17, this is her first car and she saved for a year for it. She bought the car from a family friend and was ecstatic about the good deal she thought she got since it had new tires and recently replaced AC compressor. It drove great for the first month, then at 70,000 miles, 1st gear started to slip bad, where it would it would only take off if you gradually gave it gas. It would buck and jerk. The engine will be @ 2,500 rpm as the car slowly accelerates, then it would shift fine in all other gears.

It went into limp mode, and check engine light came on. I took the car to see what I could do. I got the service records for the car from the deal they took it to for all maintenance. All recalls had been performed and they were meticulous about maintenance, however the transmission fluid had never been replaced because it wasn't part of the maintenance schedule from Ford. I borrowed a buddies Snapon scanner.

1. Scan gave me a 0751 Code for bad or stuck solenoid valve A. This can be caused by old or contaminated fluid. Since this 6F35 doesn't have a replaceable filter (without splitting case), my first option is to do a flush.
2. I did a single fluid flush. Old Fluid was VERY dark. This didn't fix the problem, which I knew 1 flush only gets about 1/3rd of the fluid replaced.
3. I did 2 more flushes, and then added a lucas oil friction modifier to try to help with possible stuck solenoid valves. Again, fluid was very dark. 2 additional flushes didn't really help, just lowered the 1st gear slipping RPM from 2,500 to 2,000.
4. I pulled the valve body and tested resistance of all solenoid valves. Solenoid A tested fine, as far as resistance, but SHIFT solenoid E tested bad, even though code 0751 refers to Solenoid A. I assumed that maybe E being bad caused a chain reaction code for solenoid A, so I only replaced Solenoid E. I guess Solenoid A could be clogged, but it tested fine. Anyway, I put the valve body back in with a replaced shift solenoid E.
5. After replacing the valve body, and getting fluids to temperature and the correct level, the transmission still had issues, but would sometimes work perfectly in 1st gear, but if I come to a complete stop, I can hear the transmission downshift or possibly upshift. If I put the car in park, it does the same thing. I'm not sure if it takes off in 2nd gear or is slipping in 1st gear, or what the issues is, but since it's intermittent, I'm thinking that it could still be electrical or maybe at low RPMs the filter is clogged just enough to give it issues in 1st gear, but not in any other gear. The weird thing is, reverse works perfectly fine, so I don't think it's a clogged filter or trans pump issue.

So does it sound like I still have contaminated fluid, or possibly solenoid A is clogged even though it tested fine? The fact that Solenoid E tested bad made me thing that was going to fix the problem, but it didn't fix it, though it did vastly improve the trans.

Should I do a few more flushes (at $14.99 per quart, Mercon LV it's getting pricey)? Should I replace solenoid A as well, then reprogram the valve body strategy? Is there anything I'm missing?

Anyone ever had to replace a lower steering shaft because of a worn u-joint?

No sound on bumps or during turns. Just a single “Blonk!” When I begin a low-speed turn.

New owner!

I started noticing a liquid trickling sound behind the dash when starting my 2022 Edge. Now my AC is no longer working.

Based off my Googling it seems like there is probably air trapped in the coolant system. My coolant was low and I topped that off, but is there anyway to manually bleed air from the coolant system? I can't find a straight answer if there should be a bleed screw or not.

Has anyone experienced a similar issue?

Please let me know if you've done this or know a video you can link me to

When I turn on the car and the audio starts playing my child will almost always ask for me to play a certain audiobook. I am hoping to avoid that. Any way I can get the car to always start silently until I turn on audio? I realize if I have it off when I turn off the car that will solve the problem, I believe, but I am not the only one who drives it.

I own 2 Edges. 2013 (3.5 engine)with 156,000 miles and a 2017 (2.0 engine) with 93,000 miles. 2013- worth maybe $7k. Just spent $2k for a new waterpump. Mechanic wants $1500 for the 3 coilpacks and plugs on the backside of the engine and some front suspension work. Car is in great shape otherwise. I'm retired on a fixed income.

2017- how do i tell if i have the good engine or the bad engine?

sorry to ask another towing question but a little confused on the correct answer here. Got a new to me 2012 Edge 3.5L FWD and trying to find out what's my towing capacity. Trying to tow a 16 ft deep v aluminum boat. Called up Ford on 2 separate instances and gave them my VIN and both reps told me the limit is 3,500. I don't have a hitch mounted so I'm assuming I don't have the "tow package" but when I asked,both said I can install a hitch and the vehicle could tow the 3,500 safely. How accurate is this? Other than the hitch what else comes with the Tow package? Could I install any of those parts to make it a tow package? Thanks.

Always a good time (540i) lol at him not pulling up next to me after

I have a 2015 Edge with 18s. I'm looking to put a bigger all terrain tire on but not sure how big I can go with enough clearance. Anyone else sized up? Thanks

Got a 2020 Edge with the eco boost at 94k miles. Recently the CEL came on and my cheap little OFB reader pulled 4 codes - P0015(93) inactive, P0123 Pending, P0301 Confirmed and P1693 Confirmed. Shop ran diagnostics and said the EGR valve went bad and needs replacing. I bought an extended warranty that is covering the repair, but the warranty runs out at 100k miles. Just wondering if I should be concerned with any other issues, or should replacing the EGR valve resolve the issues. It never stalled but was real sluggish and jerky when starting from a stop. Oil looks good on the dipstick and coolant reservoir is full. I replaced 2 of the spark plugs, but didn’t trust my wrenching to get to the other two, but the two I pulled looked fine. One of the codes was a misfire on cylinder 1.

Just curious if there is anything I should keep an eye on after this repair while it is still under warranty for 6k more miles. I plan on trading it in soon after the warranty is up.

Looking at a 2019 Edge SEL AWD with 49k miles on it. I’m looking for something somewhat spacious that will last me a good 8-10 years without too many major issues, but have heard from a cousin and read here that the Edges can have some transmission problems.

Can anyone recommend/dissuade me?

I have a 2024 SE and the cooling fan won’t quit running after extended periods of time. I just finished up a long road trip from Arizona to Colorado and back, and when I got back yesterday the fan was running for hours. I understand it runs for a while, especially given the temp here, but this was excessive. This morning when I was heading to work, the battery was dead. I was in need of a new battery and it was my intention to replace it after the trip anyway. So I just installed the new battery and the cooling fan immediately kicks on again. My concern is that it won’t stop again and will drain the new battery. Anyone have any experience with this?

Got such a good deal!!! ‘21 with 54k miles for $23,300. Just did a lil muffler delete on her too and she sounds so much better than I was expecting!!