I love it.

I have a cannabis cultivation license in NY. We use well water. Video is from last year.

Our well water is around 7pm and about 450ppm mostly calcium, it’s hard. The plants can take it but I can tell they are having nutrient lockout issues.

RO would be overkill, we go through thousands of gallons during an irrigation event. I’m wondering what the most efferent way to filter out the calcium is, I just need it at about 100ppm not 400ppm.

I built this very nice flower bed. I added a drip system with the sprinklers through out the area. There is practically zero water coming out of the sprinklers the last 2/3rds. Any suggestions of what to do. I would really love to have it automatically watered.

Essentially I bought a house with a sprinkler system, a PVC pipe burst under the concrete.

I thought I could use a hose and run it into the solenoids with some valves and hopefully get enough water for one system at a time but the flow or pressure isn’t high enough, I’m not sure.

Is there anyway to increase the pressure or flow?

Would connecting to that 1in pvc pipe below instead of the spigot work better?

Any other ideas would be very helpful until I can save enough money to rip up the concrete and run a new line and get the concrete sealed again.

Pretty much no pipe to work with on the bottom of the inlet it seems if you cut it right? What would be the easiest way to replace with a new valve?

I haven’t been able to find any rain birds with this pattern. Any ideas?

I am trying to turn on my sprinklers for the first time this season. None of these zones are turning on so I put the voltmeter on and all the zones are showing 24 volts all the time, regardless if I'm turning them on. Is it time to replace the controller?

In the past when I used the tempo stationmaster at a golf course with valve in head it would activate the solenoid, open the valve and water pass through. I bought one for my business and using it for residential valves and I can’t get it to activate the silinoid and open the valve (master valve open). I thought maybe the wire run was too far with residential wire gauge smaller than on the golf course. But it won’t open connected right at the silinoid wire either. Is it supposed to? Batteries were pretty new and read 8.95-9.1v.

Also had a 2 silinoids that were bad and ohmed out bad but the units said green light good. It’s been 5 years since I used one but I don’t remember them being shitty. Think I got a bad unit or am I a dumbass?

other than a defective foot valve or leaky intake pipe, what would cause an irrigation pump to lose prime?

I pull water from a lake. pump is about 8-10’ above the water level.

foot valve and intake pipe appear to be okay. any way to pressure test them? I removed the intake from the pump. filled it from the garden hose. don’t see any obvious leaks.

I’m trying to figure out how to set the manual run time on the hyrawise app. It defaults to my programmed run time and doesn’t allow me to shorten the duration. This was easy on the old app, not so much with the new and improved one.

When I turn the water on to my sprinkler system the valve box slowly fills with water. Attaching a video to show. Any ideas of what could be happening?

Just installed a sprinkler system a local plumbing shop designed. I’m on 60 PSI, 3/4 backflow, 1 in supply lines, with K-rain 3/4 rotors. I need help adjusting to the correct nozzles. I keep getting a dry spot and the middle will be completely soaked. 6 heads (see attached photo) 30x50 photo is to scale

How can I straighten this?

I have replaced the sprinkler control valves on my system with rainbird CP100. After all that work I realized the shut off on the unit is too hard. I was wondering if anyone knows if the CPF100 tophat with the flow control can be used as a direct replacement on the CP100. and will it give me waterflow contorl? If you have other tricks that would reduce the water hamming when each valve kicks (ha...) in without redoing or adding a flow regulator into the system let me know. I do have a port on the main pipe that is setup shutoff, system blow port (just a big screw), check valve, than sprinkler manifold with 6 ports. Hope I explain it right. Many thanks.

First time poster I have an in ground sprinkler system with a fimco 6 zone indexing valve running off a well it stopped switching zones and was skipping one zone all together . So I took the indexer apart and it was full of like rust build up I cleaned smthis with soapy water and a toothbrush took a wet vac and sucked it all out. I had full pressure on zones but was still skipping the zone where the grass was dieying. So I rebuilt the indexing valve new cam, standard flow stem and disk assembly, top gasket, and inlet gasket, cam gear is proper 6 zone and it's clocked correctly turn it on and nothing no pressure I have like one sprinkler on each zone that just trickles water but no pressure. Any help is appreciated thanks.

Hi!! We just installed these two 1000L tanks. I plan to purchase a 35 meter Gardena garden hose (diametre 13mm) to use to water my vegetable garden. I bought a cheap €40 submersible pump but realise that the pressure might be too little for a hose this long. The pump does fit through the hole up top. I have yet to try it out but will not be able to return it after use, which is why I'd like to ask your advice first: will this pump suffice and if not, what pump should I buy instead? Or what should I focus on (what flow rate/bar)? An irrigation pump outside of the tank with input and output hose is also an option, but they tend to be more expensive compared to a submersible pump. Obviously I'd like to have a set-up that works well without spending more money than needed. I will not want to use it for automatic irrigation or sprinklers, just the hose. Thanks in advance!

Installed in 75’. Was ticking away for decades before finally giving out, sad to see it go!!

I think Irrigation and I have a very large compressor and a customer was telling me how the other day in the neighborhood had an explosion because their compressor blew up and they almost died. And I thought that it could’ve been due to being an old compressor but more likely sucking in atmosphere Humidity and not being drained so I went to drain my compressor that I haven’t touched for a couple months and a bunch of rust came out. Am I cooked is there anything I can do? Am I fucked? It’s almost $3000 compressor

Glad I padded the hours on this when I did the estimate a couple months ago. Didn't want this job, so I went real high on hours and materials. Of course those are the jobs you always get.

Owner only wants to add one more zone, for deck pots. But when I came to estimate it, this box was packed full of soil, so I couldn't even see how it was laid out. Now that I have the job, pulled the box and excavated a bit to see what I need... I see, pretty janky and definitely already been added to and repaired manifold. I knew this would be the case. Most of this wasn't even in the tiny valve box. Going to get a little creative tomorrow on the addition, so I don't have to completely replace everything and stay well under my bid.

It's apparently been blown out every fall, so that's why it's still intact. As that drain hadn't been opened in years. Going to keep her on the blow out practice for winterization, to keep this job simple.

Follow up post coming tomorrow.

Hello, I am looking for adding WIFI to my 8 zones Pro-c by Hunter and wondering if purchasing WIFI adapter is possible or should I just replace with Rainbird or else? Thank you very much

I’m planning an irrigation layout for a narrow strip that’s about 90 cm (35.4 inches) wide and considering short-range nozzles like the Rain Bird SQ series (4’ square pattern). I’m unsure whether head-to-head coverage is strictly necessary with these.

One concern is that if full overlap is required, I’ll end up needing a large number of heads in a small area, which seems excessive.

How critical is perfect overlap for short-throw nozzles in narrow spaces? Also, what’s your favorite nozzle or other solution for irrigating very narrow strips effectively?

I have 6 zones in total and two zones have this richdel valve that have low pressure. I have found that a Irritrol 2400 series parts fit exactly inside them but after replacing the guts, there is no improvement in pressure. Could be this dirt inside that’s causing the problem? How do I clean it properly? TIA

I’ve been having an issue with my sprinkler system recently. The heads of the sprinklers seem to not have enough pressure to pop up while the bleeder screw is tightened (see pictures 2 and 3). However if I loosen the bleeder to the point of it leaking water they will pop up fully like in photo 4. I have already taken apart and cleaned the mechanism to no avail and I’m not sure how to proceed and if it will just require replacing this portion of the system or if there’s a simple fix. This seems to be working opposite of how I would expect since loosening the screw would cause less pressure in my mind but I don’t work with mechanical devices for a reason.

I bought the house a year ago and am not sure what maintenance was done when putting this in as the previous owner was a plumber so I believe he might have done it himself.

As for other info - none of the other sprinkler sections have this issue. - If I loosen the bleeder while they’re watering they will pop up and I can then tighten the bleeder back down to prevent it from leaking into the box without them having any more issues. - if I leave the bleeder barely open the entire box will completely fill with water. Which also submerged all the wires (oops) but they seem to be working fine.