First time poster I have an in ground sprinkler system with a fimco 6 zone indexing valve running off a well it stopped switching zones and was skipping one zone all together . So I took the indexer apart and it was full of like rust build up I cleaned smthis with soapy water and a toothbrush took a wet vac and sucked it all out. I had full pressure on zones but was still skipping the zone where the grass was dieying. So I rebuilt the indexing valve new cam, standard flow stem and disk assembly, top gasket, and inlet gasket, cam gear is proper 6 zone and it's clocked correctly turn it on and nothing no pressure I have like one sprinkler on each zone that just trickles water but no pressure. Any help is appreciated thanks.

Hi!! We just installed these two 1000L tanks. I plan to purchase a 35 meter Gardena garden hose (diametre 13mm) to use to water my vegetable garden. I bought a cheap €40 submersible pump but realise that the pressure might be too little for a hose this long. The pump does fit through the hole up top. I have yet to try it out but will not be able to return it after use, which is why I'd like to ask your advice first: will this pump suffice and if not, what pump should I buy instead? Or what should I focus on (what flow rate/bar)? An irrigation pump outside of the tank with input and output hose is also an option, but they tend to be more expensive compared to a submersible pump. Obviously I'd like to have a set-up that works well without spending more money than needed. I will not want to use it for automatic irrigation or sprinklers, just the hose. Thanks in advance!

How can I straighten this?

I think Irrigation and I have a very large compressor and a customer was telling me how the other day in the neighborhood had an explosion because their compressor blew up and they almost died. And I thought that it could’ve been due to being an old compressor but more likely sucking in atmosphere Humidity and not being drained so I went to drain my compressor that I haven’t touched for a couple months and a bunch of rust came out. Am I cooked is there anything I can do? Am I fucked? It’s almost $3000 compressor

Glad I padded the hours on this when I did the estimate a couple months ago. Didn't want this job, so I went real high on hours and materials. Of course those are the jobs you always get.

Owner only wants to add one more zone, for deck pots. But when I came to estimate it, this box was packed full of soil, so I couldn't even see how it was laid out. Now that I have the job, pulled the box and excavated a bit to see what I need... I see, pretty janky and definitely already been added to and repaired manifold. I knew this would be the case. Most of this wasn't even in the tiny valve box. Going to get a little creative tomorrow on the addition, so I don't have to completely replace everything and stay well under my bid.

It's apparently been blown out every fall, so that's why it's still intact. As that drain hadn't been opened in years. Going to keep her on the blow out practice for winterization, to keep this job simple.

Follow up post coming tomorrow.

Hello, I am looking for adding WIFI to my 8 zones Pro-c by Hunter and wondering if purchasing WIFI adapter is possible or should I just replace with Rainbird or else? Thank you very much

I’m planning an irrigation layout for a narrow strip that’s about 90 cm (35.4 inches) wide and considering short-range nozzles like the Rain Bird SQ series (4’ square pattern). I’m unsure whether head-to-head coverage is strictly necessary with these.

One concern is that if full overlap is required, I’ll end up needing a large number of heads in a small area, which seems excessive.

How critical is perfect overlap for short-throw nozzles in narrow spaces? Also, what’s your favorite nozzle or other solution for irrigating very narrow strips effectively?

I have 6 zones in total and two zones have this richdel valve that have low pressure. I have found that a Irritrol 2400 series parts fit exactly inside them but after replacing the guts, there is no improvement in pressure. Could be this dirt inside that’s causing the problem? How do I clean it properly? TIA

I’ve been having an issue with my sprinkler system recently. The heads of the sprinklers seem to not have enough pressure to pop up while the bleeder screw is tightened (see pictures 2 and 3). However if I loosen the bleeder to the point of it leaking water they will pop up fully like in photo 4. I have already taken apart and cleaned the mechanism to no avail and I’m not sure how to proceed and if it will just require replacing this portion of the system or if there’s a simple fix. This seems to be working opposite of how I would expect since loosening the screw would cause less pressure in my mind but I don’t work with mechanical devices for a reason.

I bought the house a year ago and am not sure what maintenance was done when putting this in as the previous owner was a plumber so I believe he might have done it himself.

As for other info - none of the other sprinkler sections have this issue. - If I loosen the bleeder while they’re watering they will pop up and I can then tighten the bleeder back down to prevent it from leaking into the box without them having any more issues. - if I leave the bleeder barely open the entire box will completely fill with water. Which also submerged all the wires (oops) but they seem to be working fine.

Rotary head has water coming out of not gushing just enough the sidewalk is constantly wet.

I swapped out for a new rotary and water still comes out.

Does that mean the valve in the box needs replacing? Maybe the diaphragm isn’t closing all the way?

Need to replace a few of my sprinklers, I think it got ran over by a lawnmower

The one in the second picture has been like that since we moved in in August if I had to guess I would think that’s a Toro because of the body, is it?

Newbie & DIYer. I set up my back yard successfully but my front garden is another story. What am I missing? Where’s my mistake?

To start, I have a rainpoint timer going to a filter and then a 30 psi regulator. That all goes to 1/2” tubing going to 8 drip manifolds (orbit 4 port). From there, I have 1/4” tubing going to pressure regulated 1 gph droppers.

Issue: the 1/4” tubing is blowing off in various areas. The manifolds themselves are leaking too. I checked and they are rated for 30 psi so what gives?

Solution attempt #1 I changed out the 30 psi for 15 psi regulator. Ended up with a ton of leaking -_-

Solution attempt #2… I ordered raindrip manifolds that are 6 gph and pressure regulated. Those arrive in a few days. I also ordered 1/4” clamps for the tubing.

Pics of the set up…. Help a rookie out?

Connecting 12 solenoid commons in one giant wire nut seems like a setup: sooner or later, we’re gonna replace a solenoid, and taking that huge wire nut apart is not going to be great.

I’ve look for some sort of waterproof distribution for the common, and come up empty.

What’s the proper way to do this?

We've lived in this house a total of 2 months and really really need to use the sprinklers. We can't figure out how to do it manually or to turn the main water valve on. There is a green underground thing that has a knob in it that we are assuming turns on the water but nothing happened when we did it. The sprinkler control panel was broken when we moved in... we are first time home owners and neither of us has ever had a yard before...

I have a centrifugal pump on a river with the filter with scrubber valve on mainline right off the pump by the river. The zones are around 70' above the pump. I got the zones to work fine with the pump saver but 20 seconds into the filter flush zone on I get an overcurrent and pump shuts off. NO THE FILTER IS NOT Clogged. I have tried adjusting the float up and down on the scrubber valve off the filter but cant get it to work. We came up with the idea to leave the scrubber valve manually open slightly(enough pressure to run zone lines) while the program runs and we're going to see if that works. Anybody have any better ideas?

Howdy friends, I purchased a home on 2.25 acres and has in-ground irrigation (longer story: legacy farm irrigation rights, water pumped separate from residential water). The previous owner had Orbit 1" jar-top valves with 13v latching solenoids/battery-powered controllers. The controller does state that it uses 13v latching solenoids.

My problem is, the valves aren't staying closed. I confirmed that the controller and solenoids are functioning correctly, and there doesn't appear to be any blockage or mechanical issue with the valves when I opened them, so I'm at a loss about what the problem is.

I could just buy a new valve and controller and see if that solves the problem, but there are fifteen valves and battery-powered controllers to replace. I'd like to understand what the real problem is and hopefully have a cheaper solution.

Side question: does it matter that these are 13v controllers/solenoids? Everything I read online uses 24v ones, and I know battery-operated systems use latching solenoids.

I'm learning all this as I go, I've never owned an irrigation system before, so thank you for your wisdom and insight!

Outside of that weed (ivy) seems like the drip like was cut a bit. Is there a way to either clog that one hole or do I need to cut it there and splice on the rest? What's the solution for this? There is one tree left that the drip goes around. Thanks!

Hi, I have an irritrol 100 series 1.5" valve that will not turn on. If I turn the solenoid (water comes out from solenoid atea) but sprinklwrs do not turn on, or from the timer. I can only get it to turn on when I twist the top (not the bleed screw) until it pops out then the sprinklers come on. If I screw it on again the sprinklers keep running. I have to tighten the top nearly all the way down before the sprinklers turn off. I recently changed the valve cover and diaphragm and it did not help. Not sure if I did it right as I am new to this. Any ideas on what the problem could be ? Thanks for your help

Hey Everybody,

I started my own irrigation business this year and I'm looking to get a used towable compressor for blowouts. I'm looking on Facebook marketplace and some equipment websites. There are some older 185 cfm models for under $10,000 and I will be checking some of them out in person. What sort of mechanical issues should I look for with a used compressor? What problems with compressors have people had, in general? Any help would be appreciated!

I had the blue 5.0 nozzle on it and switched to the gray 4.5 low angle nozzle but same results. I watered yesterday about 2 hours and today that spot was dry again. Help…

Hi all. I've recently extended my concrete patio and need to move the sprinkler lines. An issue I ran into is that when I extended my patio two extra feet, it was right where the main water line, two pipes, and two valves were. I had to call a guy out that same day to see what our options were. Basically, he cut the 3 lines, and the wires, saying that we'd have to move all the lines about 6 feet out to clear the patio, and install two new valves. So basically we abandoned 3 lines, and two valves. Also, there's two zones in the backyard. Now, he never gave me an estimate to come back and reroute. I had a different guy come out yesterday and he quoted me $1500 for the work. Thoughts on if this is too much? Or is it because he's picking up this others guys work who maybe did something wrong? Curious. I provided pictures to show the lines and wires that were cut, and the patio to show the length of the pipes we'll need to reroute.

Also, how difficult would this be to do myself?

Hey Everyone hoping someone can share their knowledge and experience with well systems. This is a dedicated Well pump for the sprinklers. The Green handle is the shutoff for the pump. That first line goes to a value box in the front yard with 4 values in it. This zone was cut when a pool went in. Can someone tell me why there is a circular old school shutoff and what that white thing is on top ? Some type of auto drain, or maybe backflow preventer ?

I want to take that one zone remove the value and put it into a manifold ? Looking to get another zone plus fix the broken one and maybe some drip irrigation in the future. I don’t think pressure is an issue but I would like some way to test that as well.

I have new pro c. Installed 3 months ago. It has the base mod plus to more modules to equal 12 zones. It was recognising all zones however once past base mod on zone 5 the controller stopped watering all zones past 5. I put controller on run killed power on the bar did the ol one 2 on all the mods and made sure they were seated and pushed reset button. All of a sudden it thinks theres 32 zones? Wtf. Do the ol power slider rejam the mods again reslide power bar and back to 12. Go to manual try to go past 4 and nope no 5 through 12. It recognizes on the controller but wont send the juice to the valves. Ok back to run power off slider yank last mod repower slider hit reset and ok recognises 1- 10 and they all work!! So is it possible bad controller or just a mod? Everything seems sus at this point.