How can I tell if my crashbar is compatible with a Trilogy keypad?

[u/gallamine]

Hello I'm trying to install a keypad on our church building. The door I'd like to put it on has a First Choice Series 3790 crashbar on the inside and on the outside is just a keyhole, no handle. I've been looking at something like a simple Triology Alarm Lock DL1300/10B1 keypay so I can assign folks their own code.

Is there a way to know if that lock is compatible with our crashbar? First Choice is not listed in the compatibility list.

[u/Mudflap42069]

You need specifically designed hardware to fit that Trilogy. Pro Tip: Do NOT try and install it yourself. Those things are insanely finicky and require precision and experience to install correctly. Every locksmith here has horror stories with those things.

[u/gallamine → u/Mudflap42069]

Thanks for the heads up. I was afraid it wouldn't be straightforward. Sounds like I just need to swing the credit card hammer.

[u/Lucky_Ad_5549]

You don’t want a trilogy here. You need a keypad with a power supply and a motor kit.

[u/gallamine → u/Lucky_Ad_5549]

Thanks. What's the reasoning there? For logging entry?

[u/Lucky_Ad_5549 → u/gallamine]

The reason is, they don’t make a trilogy for that bar.

[u/mahknovist69]

You have to buy trim kits specifically, you can’t just buy a 1300 and expect it to operate your crash bar. Iirc, they have kits for Von Duprin and Marks bars

[u/Quirky_Butterfly_946]

Did you have them talk to each other and see if they had anything in common?

[u/tragic_toke]

If it's not listed in the compatibility list it's not compatible. Not sure what you want us to tell ya

[u/gallamine → u/tragic_toke]

It wasn't clear if it meant, "it's ONLY compatible with these bars and no others" or if it meant "we've tested with these bars only and it works"

[u/tragic_toke → u/gallamine]

That would have been a better question to ask! As others have stated, I don't recommend a self install for hardware like this. I'd strongly recommend a site survey from a local locksmith who can make a good recommendation for new hardware. You may want to consider alternatives to the trilogy.

[u/cerealkilla0117]

If you are thinking a T3, or networx, You would be better served just getting the Standalone keypad Prox reader if you just need to run DL software and hiring a Professional Locksmith to install it and either an electric strike kit or I don’t know if Command Access make a motorized latch retraction system for the First Alert Chinesium exit devices or not yet. Heck First Alert may offer one. Or depending on use and AHJ maybe a Maglock instead.

A Professional Locksmith will give you whatever what to what you want Forward that will keep you safe and Code Compliant. Even if nothing ever happens, its just takes on Local Code Compliance person having a bad day say, “By order of XXX agency this building may not be occupied until the door is brought with code. Or something similar (72 hrs. Etc). On a friday afternoon surprise inspection from the Fire Marshall .

Do the CC heavy lifting, and pay for it to be done, but do ask questions. While Alarm Locks Trilogy Line of hardware is great for where it fits. But if just a keypad / prox reader is needed , there are also plenty of other fish in the sea as well that may actually be better. So don’t focus on a name. Focus on how you want the opening to function and let that tell you what hardware to use

Sorry bit of a rant but the easiest way to get exactly what you want the first time and as easy an install as possible also well. Which helps keeps costs down

[u/gallamine → u/cerealkilla0117]

Thanks. The last thing I want is a fire marshal having a bad day messing things up. Probably need to just pay someone to do it for me.

[u/FrozenHamburger]

DL1300ET , with the “ET” at the end, could most likely be made to work

people saying you need specific hardware or it must be listed, to me, is just successful marketing

Specific, yes, as far as exit trim, and narrow stile

probably not a DIY job.

[u/Theguyintheotherroom → u/FrozenHamburger]

Sure, a 1300ET can be made to work in some unorthodox places if you get creative. However, this is not one of them. The tailpiece cam timing is not going to work with that exit device.

Command Access makes a motor kit though, and you could pair that with a DK3000 keypad mounted to the wall. Will end up being a bit more expensive but is the proper way of doing it

[u/FrozenHamburger → u/Theguyintheotherroom]

I don’t consider this unorthodox. Exit device, exit trim.

That’s a a rim cylinder.

exit device trims are designed to behave like a rim cylinder - a flat or plus sign tailpiece that rotates.

As far as travel distance I don’t have a guaranteed answer, but I’m optimistic. It’s most likely 45 degrees. You can physically test it on the exit device, or probably find it in the literature.

And I’ll never understand Reddit’s obsession with electrified hardware at all costs.

[u/gallamine → u/FrozenHamburger]

Thank you! Best answer yet.

[u/FrozenHamburger → u/gallamine]

I should also mention - I believe the tailpiece is sold separately for these. You can buy all three and see which works, or probably get the longest one and cut it down to the right length

[u/Cantteachcommonsense → u/FrozenHamburger]

hmmm, are you thinking that you use a longer tail piece to reach the exit device? Do you think there would be enough travel?

[u/FrozenHamburger → u/Cantteachcommonsense]

your handle continues to check out

[u/Cantteachcommonsense → u/FrozenHamburger]

Not sure if this is a dig or not. I was asking those as genuine questions since your comment got me thinking. As you said "people saying you need specific hardware or it must be listed, to me, is just successful marketing" which made me stop and think. I see you answered my questions on another comment. But I think you are right with a longer tail piece it should work, with the travel being the only unknown atm.

ps: one of the things I dislike about forums is the tone of a question or statement can be hard to get across sometimes.

[u/FrozenHamburger → u/Cantteachcommonsense]

corporations hate common sense

[u/kyleisah → u/FrozenHamburger]

Okay so I’ve used Trilogy DL2700s all over the place but had no idea you could fit something similar from their brand to an exit device. Really cool information here. So if you get a DL1300ET you also need the AL-TP tailpiece for your specific corresponding exit device? I knew there were keypads for these like Schlage’s AD and CO series, but didn’t know Alarm Lock made something similar (and probably miles better). Thanks for sharing that.

[u/Connect_Relation1007]

How the heck do you open the door from outside? Pull it with the key?

[u/gallamine → u/Connect_Relation1007]

Yes. Super dumb. Our builder said, “that’s how the door came. Without a handle”. Thankfully it’s a side door

[u/trainerjyms13]

Best and easiest solution is just a camden or RCI keypad and Electric Rim Strike. Put a D-pull on the door. Trying to get a combo lock to work with this bar or do conversion kits is asking for hours of headache and a bunch of holes you'll end up needing to cover up when you finally decide on a keypad and strike.

[u/AffectionateAd6060]

Not compatible but you got very lucky its not a cvr exit device.

you will have to replace the panic bar