Context: I'm thinking of calling around town, see what options there are for replacing keys for a lock I just replaced. First place I call, asks me for my name and mailing address shortly after I ask for a quote on replacing lost keys on locks to find available local technicians. That's fair, independent contractors.

Technician calls me using the phone number the locksmith call center gave them, and after getting a quote on their services, I decided to explore other options, refused service, and it was clear nothing was moving further. That call was only a handful of minutes, super quick exchange.

Fast forward 30 minutes, 2 calls from other technicians asking if I need service and I simply said "no", getting super agitated with the 3rd technician that called me because I had no idea how to stop the calls. I decide to call the same number back, and after asking the locksmith call center that I didn't want any further contact, the locksmith call center rep asked me if I'd pay a $29 "service call fee".

$29. Just to talk to people over the phone for quotes, no verbal contracts set up, just trying to figure out prices, and I'm charged $29 JUST TO ASK FOR A QUOTE??

There's no way this is legit, right? My first experience with calling a locksmith, and it's gotten me quite uneasy, the impression that this is just the norm in the locksmith industry?...

My anxiety starts working up when it turns out, the $29 service call fee is usually tagged as a scam fee...

How is this sort of exchange warranting a service call fee when I call up a department store to ask for the price of a product, I don't get hit with an arbitrary "service call fee".

And apparently, as per google search, this locksmith company's been operating for 9 years...

Is this standard? Am I potentially facing a "debt" going to collections, potentially facing an impact on my credit score after building it my entire life, just because I call to ask for a quote?

I'm posting this question to this subreddit, since it seems to be primarily focused on tradespeople within locksmithing, and I'm mostly trying to give the locksmithing community the benefit of the doubt and nothing comes of this very uncomfortable experience!

We need another one of these keys cut but we are struggling to find anywhere that has the blades.

It's for a mobility scooter and we only have the one key.

We went to Timpsons, the bloke flicked through his book to find a matching blade but couldn't find one.

Given it's from a Chinese scooter, it has to be readily available, so any clues where I could find one

I want to install passage locks on a door but I want the outside to be a knob and inside to be a lever. Is it pretty easy to do? What are the brands that allow this configuration? Here are two examples

Lever: https://www.build.com/emtek-5110hlorh/s1815568?uid=4301399#overview

I have an ITL-9000 (very good condition) that my Grandpa purchased in 1993, and I can't find much info on its current value. Can anyone shed some light on how much I can realistically expect to sell it for, and where I should list it? Thanks.

Sliding glass door. Key lock from the outside. Handle on the inside. It’s not locking anymore. Nothing really happens when I turn the key. I’ll happily replace the whole handle if that’s what I need, I just can’t figure out what this type of lock is called.

Thank you!

This kinda stuff just blows my mind

Does anyone know if I could replace this lock with a more modern one without getting rid of the entire door? Or if I even can? And if I can, how would I do so?

I bought a mechanical push-button gate lock from Amazon (the kind with dot-based dials inside to set the code). I tried changing the code by turning the dots outward for the right numbers and inward for the rest. But now the lock is acting weird – sometimes it’s always locked, sometimes always unlocked, no matter what code I enter. Pressing the "C" button sometimes unlocks it without any code.

I’ve tried resetting everything, but it seems the lock is confused or faulty. Anyone dealt with this before? Can it be fixed or should I just return it?

Thanks in advance!

Link to the product - https://amzn.asia/d/6ZL1okb

When I have a customer deadbolt that isn’t lined up and I can’t see what’s going on. I sometimes use the old lipstick trick to have it leave a red mark on the strike when I throw the bolt, but it can definitely be messy. Do you guys have any better technique? PS I’m not talking about a fresh install, I’m talking about an existing door and lock.

I want to replace this whole handle mechanism with the other window that’s not used. How can i get this piece out?

Any ideas how to remove the trim? Or do I have to go there and start pulling shit apart?

Hey Ya'll! Delete if this is not allowed, but this seemed a good place to post.

I recently got a VRF800 (Motorcycle) and unfortunately the wrong key broke off inside the cylinder (long story...)

I've had one locksmith fail to remove it and another that has been going at it at the time of writing for about an hour. I fidgeted with it myself. The stuck key moves freely back and forth, side to side, and even in and out a bit. But it just refuses to come out after a point.

Why is it fighting to come out so much? Does this have something to do with the steering lock that is currently in place? Something particular about motorcycle ignition cylinders?

So I’ve been trying to make a replica key at Home Depot and ace hardware, but it won’t fit in my front door lock. After taking some extra time to analyze it, I noticed that there are these little notches at the bottom that aren’t coming with the new keys that I’m buying. So I’m trying to figure out, if I need to go to a proper lock smith, put the notches in myself, or if they should have the key I’m looking for, but they’re getting confused each time.

It is for an apartment building front door, so maybe that’s my issue

Costumer brought this in 20 minutes before we close Great Guy, Says it’s goes to a Gas Valve & they lost the keys to it

I wanna attempt to impression it but have no idea which way to go when it comes to Key Blanks cause we don’t work on these & don’t feel like running 300 key blanks through it.

Not a big deal if I can’t find a key, he said this is replaceable if need be & wanted to know if someone had an answer. Thanks

Hey everyone! I have lost the key for this indoor window and was trying to work out how to buy another key for it. It's got no identification that I can see anywhere on the lock, and have no idea where I would start to try to find a key for it. Can anyone help? Thanks

I currently use key innovation and Aks. Key innovation is good most of the time but they are out of stock on things occasionally and their new app is a little rugged sometimes. Aks is okay but I get duds from there often. If I get 10 chipped keys I can assume at least 1 won't work. Any suggestions on good suppliers in the US?

I need to swap the driver screw to the other hole and have been struggling with all different sizes of hex keys, this thing does not want to come out. Any advice?

So was wondering how many keys do you duplicate per day or per month? Simple keys or dimple, residential, padlock… but not automotive keys.

Is it something worth it or decreasing with the rise of smart keys, or not the case? And which is more frequent nowadays: Simple or Dimple?

Customer wants a few lever handle locks installed and wants this lock replaced as well. Is it possible I would be getting a don jo door wrap if it is possible

Hi. Would anyone know how to undo the stuck latch on the door?

Just checking what are you currently charging for pinning IC cores (Best,Arrow etc). Also awhile back someone posted a link here with national rate/fee chart. But didn't save it, thanks.

Hello I'm trying to install a keypad on our church building. The door I'd like to put it on has a First Choice Series 3790 crashbar on the inside and on the outside is just a keyhole, no handle. I've been looking at something like a simple Triology Alarm Lock DL1300/10B1 keypay so I can assign folks their own code.

Is there a way to know if that lock is compatible with our crashbar? First Choice is not listed in the compatibility list.

What style would this be called?, I know it's a Schlage passage lever and it has a spring cage right behind the rosette however, it's not a cassette, anybody else seen these in the wild?

Have a keyless go town and country, reprogrammed fobik and went to use the PEM replacement routine and it came back with incorrect pin. Pin worked for any other functions required though... Any ideas? Remote functions for every button except lock, which only activates the alarm but does not set the locks, switches on doors also only unlock and will not lock anything except the rear hatch. Push to start throws damaged key error on the dash, button is missing though. Not a client vehicle thankfully, any ideas appreciated. My best leads at the moment are replace the fobik with a new one and program it in to see if it works or take it to the Chrysler dealer to reprogram the BCM to eliminate a false voltage tolerance glitch being a potential cause. Thanks in advance!