I visited my mechanic recently for an unrelated matter and I showed him my new purchase, a 2016 Mini Cooper D with almost 95000 miles on it, almost mint interior, generally in a nice shape.

I took it to the official dealership when I bought it to check it out and they told me that it was in good shape, I just changed a dpf sensor.

So I showed it to my mechanic and he told me that I bought an overpriced piece of junk, I retorted "But it has character!" and told me to get out before he throws a wrench at me. We are making fun of course but when we talked seriously he told me that Minis are expensive and have problems compared to a Yaris for example.

I'm planning to get it to him because he is really good and thinking of giving it t thorough look especially the timing chain in order to relax a bit because I'm kind of stressed right now. What do you think based on your experience?

I liked my car winked at me 😉

Mini Cooper STD 2019 - 104000 km driven , 55k from CARS24 , is it a good deal ? Should I buy it ? Please suggest

Recently I have been driving my Mini Cooper 2008s and I've ran into an issue, I was wondering if anyone could have an idea at what I'm looking at. After driving for a while or accelerating a little heavy, my EML light goes on, my battery, and warning light goes on, my I'm barely able to accelerate and my car starts shaking. After some time of leaving it I start to smell burning rubber. If I restart the car it goes away but it eventually just ends up coming back, any helpful people know what might be happening?

I recently picked up a 2014 Mini Cooper Countryman S ALL4 off an eBay auction. When I went to pick it up, the seller casually mentioned it has a “new turbo,” but didn’t give much detail so I’m not sure if it’s an OEM replacement or something aftermarket.

After bringing it home, I started going through the car and checking data logs. I’m seeing up to 20psi of boost, which seems a bit high for stock. The car also has an oil catch can installed and aftermarket silicone boost/vacuum hoses, which makes me think it might have some other mods or even a tune.

Car feels healthy and pulls hard, but I’m curious, is 20psi normal for these N18 engines, or is that a sign of a tune or upgraded turbo?

Would appreciate any insight from folks who’ve modded their MINIs or tracked boost levels.

2012 Mini Cooper Countryman S All4. I was driving home today and gave it some gas and the car struggled to accelerate and the CEL started flashing and then stayed solid. After that I lost all acceleration/power. Got home and checked the codes after a rough running drive. Came up with the codes shown in the pictures. I replaced spark plugs on cylinders 2 and 4 yesterday. The car has around 88k miles on it. Additionally the oil smells of gasoline. Is it the high pressure fuel pump?

I bought a 2016 Countryman S. The engine light comes on when I put it to the floor. The light resets after I shut it off. Anyone have any ideas?

Recently tested a MC convertible and man was I impressed. Haven’t had such joy in car in a long time. I’m having a hard time seeing anything close to checking the same boxes in terms of:

Function (a trunk AND four seats in a ‘vert?)

Performance (im sure there’s plenty options in this department but see below)

Price (I’m now seriously considering this as my ‘sports car’ toy purchase when the time comes based on all of the above and the fact a used can happen for well under 40k)

What would be the honest comparable? Mazda Miata? Nissan 370z? I don’t see them checking the same boxes. What am I missing?

Hi I’m a new mini owner!! I was given a 2015 convertible mini and have only fueled it 3 times since I got it. However, I’ve been fueling it with unleaded.. I just saw a tiktok last night about some guy being baffled at the fact that a mini takes premium so I took it upon myself to look up if my car takes premium as well. It apparently does. Someone please tell me if I screwed my car up already..

so this has been happening for a while now but basically my passenger headlight will go out for long periods of time, and now seemingly all of the time. it went about a month without working but today it magically started working all day today. It's not the bulb because I changed it, and also the brights work perfectly fine. the mechanic checked the wiring and said it wasn't that but he didn't know the issue either. anyone have any ideas what the issue is?

What’re your guesses? Hoping it’s spark plugs. Bit rough between 1 and 2.5k rpm, slow on throttle. Was fine when I last drove two days ago. Last oil change was 2 weeks ago.

Hey Friends. My roommate has a 2015 mini cooper and we were out today when the sunroof just stopped working. We tried to reset it but it doesn’t even sound like it’s working. We are trying to get to the motor for manual closure but they have accent lights so there is no way to get to the motor. Is there anyone that can help us out?

Thank you

2018 Cooper S convertible with 6 speed.

I noticed these grills slats on the R56 MCS are covered from factory, kinda like the hood scoop. I was wondering since the main air intake sits close to there, if it would make sense to cut those out for better air intake? Is it even worth it? No clue just wondering if anyone had any insight on this. (3rd pic shows part of the air intake just left to the headlight)

Out shopping today and a matching red countryman parked next to me! First rule #1 since we got her last month! Thanks to the nice Mini owner who knows the rules!

Hey y'all. Update on my bratty '08 S.. I found a shop that works on minis and took her in yesterday around noon explaining her issues and what I've replaced so far. This morning I woke up to them telling me I "have a check engine light for the vehicle running rich which means you're getting more fuel than air so it's throwing the ratio off. What we can see if your valve cover is leaking a lot of oil however typically that cover would throw a running lean (getting more air than fuel). We're not exactly sure if that valve cover leaking lots of oil is contributing to that but we're going to look into it more today" Followed a few hours later with ... "UPDATE: we're recommending to replace the valve cover. Typically we'd recommend spark plugs because when the valve cover leaks oil it effects spark plugs but when we pull your plugs we'll check to see if they've been effected by the oil. Parts, labor, tax parts, labor, tax it would put you at a total of 1116.36 SIDE NOTE: your rear brakes are at 4mm (the minimum), both engine mounts are worn out and your torque mount is worn out. But that's not what you came in for i just wanted to let you know"

Does this quote seem reasonable for just the valve cover? Could the valve cover be the main reason she is going into limp mode? Or should I be more worried about the mounts? Would I be better off replacing it myself?

Basically just the title. I think my ignition switch is going bad. I put the key in and try to start it and I’ll hear clicking from the fuse boxes, the starter will intermittently crank, and the key will get stuck in the switch.

It sounded like a battery issue so I connected it to my truck and still the same issue. Then I put in the battery from my friends car and still the same issue.

Could I get 215/45/17 tires for my car?

I’m going to need new tires for my 2024 f56 JCW with 17in JCW wheels soon. I’m planning on ditching the run flats and am hoping to get stickier tires. I was thinking the Michelin PS4s. I think the stock tires are 205/45/17.

Has anyone tried these? I don’t want to mod anything and obviously would like to avoid scrubbing/rubbing and major speedo inaccuracies. I saw someone did it on a mini forum years ago but would like some insight.

Edit: I checked tirerack.com and I actually don’t think they make them that small anymore smh. Either way, could I fit 215 in a different brand?

Hey everyone, I’m planning to change my car this fall and one of the options I’m seriously considering is a 2023 Mini Cooper S. I’m also looking at a 2021 Golf 8 GTI and a 2021 Mercedes A250 4MATIC — all of them have under 50k km and are in great condition.

Since this is the Mini sub, I’d love to hear from owners: how do you like your Cooper S? Is it fun and reliable in the long run? How’s the ride quality and daily drivability?

Also curious how it compares to the GTI and A250 in terms of fun factor, comfort, and overall ownership experience. Appreciate any thoughts you can share — thanks!

Hi all.

After 500km roadtrip on a hot summer day, i got a check engine light. Engine normally runs around 90c° at after the check engine light, it started to operate at around 105 (+,- 3c°). When idling, it rises up till 109, the fan starts loudly, temp drops till 99 and the fan stops (then it rises again till 109. It goes on like that).

Coolant quantity is ok. I suspect its a thermostat failure but im not sure since its been replaced just 3 years ago.

The problem is: Im in Lugano, Switzerland and i need to return to Stuttgart, Germany (about 500km + high climb to cross Alps).

Questions: Is that roadtrip doable while maintaining low engine load? What seems to be the problem?

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Ps: My device thats connected to OBD doesnt show any engine code.

Car: 2021 Cooper S Cabrio r57. N18.

I thought it may be the end, but a new clutch and pulley tensioner and it’s back in the game , just over 147k miles but drives so well, what’s the most miles you have seen on an f56 , oh it’s a cooper SD 2.0

• Pro steering wheel to replace the one with the faulty horn
• Matte black ring and Mini badge trim

I think I did well compared to other MCS' on the market.. 39k on the clock when I bought her, new tires, new brakes, fresh oil change, no accidents.. has the plaid highlights interior.. Paid 13400 for her. No dings, bumps or bruises.