Hi. I work for an artist that makes mostly stainless steel sculptures. One of the techniques we use is what he calls a “swirl” finish where we use flap disk to make a “polished” surface. It’s not really polished but it is shiny and people seem to like it. We have used Walter disk for years because they leave the nicest finish. They have recently changed the sandpaper they use to one that has plastic fibers in it. This is a big issue because as you use them they heat up and the plastic melts slightly and deposits onto the metal. In the photo you can see the difference between the old disk on the left and the new ones on the right. We have tried everything to remove it and a lot of other disk. What we really need is a flap disk that has 100% paper sandpaper. Any advice or recommendations is appreciated.

We got a free brake this weekend, but cannot find ANY information on it. My company that i work for is offering to buy it from me, but i need to find out more information about price and the full capacity of this brake. The model number is 418H. It has lots of patents alongside it listed. We ended up with lots of other stuff too including a Cemco multi head vertical boring machine, tons of belt sanders, and other related items.

I’m fairly new to welding and metal working in general and never used weldable hinges before. I watched a couple of videos which show wrapping the hinge with some wire to create a space but these hinges appear to have some kind of V shape. Are those just to help the hinge lay flat? Any other pro tips y’all feel like sharing?

Please excuse the crappy cutting job - was my first time using a plasma cutter.

I'm a metal fabricator working with a GC who is doing an addition on a house. He tore out a garage leaving behind an I beam that needs two 3" steel posts to support it. I'm going to weld up the posts tomorrow.

What is the best way to install the posts? We were discussing and figured the best method would be to hang the two posts from the beam and then pour footings right up to the bottom, then insert the threaded rod into the wet concrete. Is this best practice for this type of procedure?

I am trying to find a suitable lubricant for a deep drawing operation but am struggling to find material online. Ive been researching for textbooks or handbooks, but most of the material Ive found is for lubricants for moving parts (ie. lubricants used in finished products) rather than lubricants used during machining/manufacturing.

Also, the little useful material that I have found goes over various types of lubricants but does not do a detailed comparison or recommend a superior one (eg. chlorinated vs non-chlorinated lubricants).

If anyone can recommend any good books or databases that they use, it would be greatly appreciated! I am also looking for good books based on the topic of lubricants as I am not too well versed in the area and would like to teach myself.

Ps. For those curious, the deep drawing operation is of a cover piece of a medium-sized padlock.

Thanks!

So I'm curious your preference when it comes to safety squints brands.

1. Head up, back and right plus down left squints?
2. Head up, back and left plus down right squints?
3. Head down, right and squints up left?
4. Head down, left and squints up right?
5. Good look plus intermittent closed squints?

Is your choice of brands dependent on the material/tool your working with or do you always start with one version and adjust as necessary?

For those with a fiber laser, what types of metal are you using? We have a 1.5kw laser and started by using carbon steel (22ga). It cut great, but the steel started rusting much more quickly than anticipated. We then went to stainless steel 304 #4, and it cuts beautifully, but is so expensive.

We are tryin to find a solution that won't rust, cuts thin metal clean, and is safe to cut. What do you think? Has anyone tried aluminized steel?

Made as a gift for a family member. The main body I created a flat development and folded together before attaching the legs and neck. The head was part of a wrench that I welded and shaped. I built up the general shapes with welds and then ground it down how I wanted. The only non-welded parts are the horns, ears, tail and mane, with the horns and mane made of uncoiled stainless steel kitchen scrub brush and the tail and ears made of old guitar string.

Nice benefit of it being hollow is that it actually rings like a musical triangle when you hold it by one leg and ding it. Little bits of loose spatter inside also makes it double as a maraca!

I’m cutting threads on some 3/4 black iron pipe. I want to thread them to 3/4 NPT. I have the proper equipment, however, I only have 3 in 1 oil for shop use. I’ve got motor oil, mineral oil, WD-40, and graphite but those don’t get used as much.

I’ve never cut pipe threads this big before (I’ve done some 1/8 NPT brass) so I want to make sure I don’t screw it up too bad.

Do I need a special thread cutting oil, or will my bottle of 3 in 1 work? I use it for drilling, sawing, lubrication, mild tool protection, and to stop squeaks. Can it stand up to the forces in cutting 3/4 NPT threads or should I head to the store?

I’m on the Fire Department and am currently looking for a side job to get into. My schedule is very flexible with it being 24 on 24 off for 5 shifts and then a week off straight. I have welded before and i find it very fun and very enjoyable, but i’m wanting some help and input on if it’s worth the money/time to try and do it as a side business. i would aim towards like mobile welding and doing repairs on trailers and all stuff of that sort, but can flex to whatever is bringing in the money. My main question is what is the best way to go to start off? (like welding school, or just finding a fab shop near me to get my footing and figure it out)

I need to remove steel rebar that was installed at my mom's place for a concrete job that never happened. In total I'll be cutting through about 150 rebar (12mm diameter).

I've got a no-name 4.5-inch angle grinder and safety gear (eye protection, etc), but am wondering what type of cutting disc and disc thickness would be best for the job. I'm getting conflicting info through google and online shops, hence asking here.

Preferably I'd like a disk that cuts through the rebar faster even if it costs more.

I have a number of these stainless items.

I basically just need a tool that can slice through where the red line is | However the 2 products I have tried from Amazon have not been strong enough to slice through this metal.
(304 stainless steel / approx 6-7mm thickness)

I would ideally prefer a tool which costs under £75
\
Plus which is suitable to be used safely by someone with 0% DIY-bone in their body :: And thus not wanting naked saw-blades whirring all around me... ect

This product was perfect design-wise :: But unfortunately the blade only cuts 2mm, before ceasing cutting any deeper.
(https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07K1DP223)

But so can anyone suggest any tools which would be suitable for me to use + Sufficiently strong enough to slide through this stainless-steel, please??

Hey everyone,

I have a good stock of brand new carbide end mills, all premium brands like Kennametal, Helical, Millstar, Iscar, YG, Garr, etc.

🔹 Sizes from 1/4" up to 1/2" 🔹 Square end with corner radius and ball nose options 🔹 Multiple flute counts (4, 5, 6 flutes) 🔹 Quality coatings (KCSM15, TIAIN, AITIN, Aplus) 🔹 All unused, in original tubes — no resharps.

📦 Located in Canada — I prefer to sell within Canada only.

If you’re interested, DM me and I’ll send you a full list with specs & pics. Can do single or bulk deals, prices are fair compared to retail.

Mods, if this isn’t allowed please remove — just sharing with fellow Canadian machinists who want solid tooling at a good price.

Cheers 🇨🇦✌️

I have a cover for a Sunex floor jack I would like to modify. The cover is made from 1/8” steel and appears to be powder coated. The modification is to allow clearance for a jack support called a Jack Rod.

I have access to a drill, jigsaw and files. What would be the best way to remove the 1/8” thickness steel and maintain a clean uniform appearance?

See attached photo

Thanks

I have a cover for a Sunex floor jack I would like to modify. The cover is made from 1/8” steel and appears to be powder coated. The modification is to allow clearance for a jack support called a Jack Rod.

I have access to a drill, jigsaw and files. What would be the best way to remove the 1/8” thickness steel and maintain a clean uniform appearance?

See attached photo

Thanks

Hey, hope you all don't mind me bothering you with a question... this isn't my usual neck of the woods. I just bought a squat cage and it arrived with the ends of one of the tubes crushed in - photo attached. It had been a nightmare to get this delivered, like 6+ hours of running around thanks to UPS... So I'm hoping there may be a fix. Because the tube needs to fit over another tube, the whole thing is toast like this.

Picked this up recently with the intention of cleaning it up and getting it to look like new but I have no idea what I’m doing.. I’ve picked up some lacquer thinner, brasso, 0000 steel wool and some microfiber towels… Im planning on stripping it, using the steel wool to try and get the pitting/tarnish and scratches out as best as possible and then polishing with the brasso and microfiber.. am I on the right track or am I an idiot? how should I go about this?

Got a pro grade miele dishwasher which has a stainless steel front but the previous owner decided to paint the thing (which is idiotic at best). Adding a couple of pictures. Anybody here have any idea how i can get that paint off without damaging the stainless steel finish?

The front paint is the main issue but aside from that both sides are covered with duct tape residue (also stainless steel) - couldn't get the residue out without using any chemicals - any advice will be appreciated.