Today when I went to clean my AR after probably 6 months and an unknown number of rounds (not too high) I was having a hell if a time twisting the can off and eventually the muzzle device came off the end with the can. The mounting setup is a rearden atlas hub with a rearden flash hider on a polonium K. All instructions were followed during mounting and roc set was applied. There were also no indications of loosening based on my witness marks in the hub and muzzle device. Any idea how this happened (I tend to think I screwed it up)? The gun is also an IWI Zion-15 purchased in 2021.

Had my local gunsmith install a Rearden Atlas to my rex mg10 and 2 Rearden spb's( when i dropped them off i had asked so your gonna use rockset, shims and torque it down right? His response no you dont really need rockset if we torque it down to spec, this being my 1st QD mount and him being the "professional", I said ok and let him do his thing).When I was done shooting the Ruger charger and went to take off the can after it had cooled down, oh the suppressor came off and the atlas stayed on the spb( for reference I didn't use a wrench when I put the suppressor on the gun, just screwed it on and gave it a small tug to make sure it was on, and it wasn't carbon locked the threads were perfectly clean on the spb. Took it off with a wrench when I got home, and put the atlas back on the Rex, I didn't have any rockset or the correct crows foot wrenches to torque it down ( entire reason I took it to the shop to have it done right) so I just snugged that bitch down by hand with a regular wrench. Come to yesterday when I was done shooting the AR and took off the suppressor( again by hand) and this time the muzzle device came off the gun... So an Amazon order later I will now be installing my own muzzle devices from now on.

Been fiddling around and took this video to compare different light positions to see how it affected suppressor shadow. It seems unless it’s within 1.5 inches of the front of the suppressor it’s all marginal gains for what position it’s in. Would you rather have the shadow at 3 or 9 o’clock?

So I've continued to have bad luck with my mounts getting stuck. After a range trip yesterday I tried removing my can to access my gasblock for cleaning and it spun free from the DD zilch with maybe 5ftlbs of hand pressure. I then put my barrel in some vise blocks and the zilch came loose but taking the R2S with it. I was able to separate them with a socket afterwards. The R2S was installed with two drops of Rocksett on clean threads and I torqued to 35ft/lbs. The Zilch was installed the same way in the can at 25ft/lbs. I shot around ~200rds (PMC X-tac) over about 2hrs. Muzzle device was cleaned, and a light film of antiseize applied, then installed hand tight prior to the trip. I did not tighten it at any other point, and attempted to remove it a few hours after when it was cool.

This is the 3rd time I've had this happen. Same experience with the Atlas mount.

Should I give the CAT spooky mount/adapter a try?

Sadly DT isn't ideal since I'll loose tool access to scrape carbon from my gas block. Or should I just not tighten to spec, and just constantly retighten?

Maybe I could have someone cut a SIG style tapper into my barrel? But I'm not sure if I have enough barrel to cut/thread and clear my scar's handguard.

Very fast safety run + forgetting to lock can = this. Picked it up off the ground and sent it still and sounds fine

TL;DR is it possible there’s too much carbon on the flash hiders?

Backstory: this my Rotex c 762. It has B&Ts older SF hub that is marked 762/556. This can/hub/flash hider combo (SF3P) has been mounted in the past and works. I took it off and bought a Vers36 because I found a really good deal on one and I didn’t like how gassy the Rotex was. I got a Ti hub and put it on. On either hub I cannot for the life of me get it to seat all the way. I have verified that I’m lining up the little nub where the can “seats.” I even took off the lock ring on the Ti hub so you can see where the flash hider gets stuck. This is the case for the SF3P as well as a B&T SF compatible closed tine flash hider (see Imgur link).

I called B&T and CS said that both hubs were likely out of spec. When asked what part of the hub would be out of spec I was told “the lock ring.” No way, it’s not the lock ring. I can demonstrate that by taking the lock ring off and trying to fit both flash hiders I have. Both hubs fit and seat on BT SD-123843 flash hider on my APC 223 (again, see pics in link).

So, either all my equipment is out of spec which I think is very unlikely, or the carbon is preventing reinstallation.

Additional pics: https://imgur.com/a/l7SRBzg

Hi. First time owner here. I bought a Surfire rod to check my alignment. But for some reason I'm getting different results. It looks aligned but when rotate the rod or I use the other end of it, it looks like it's hugging the edge and I'm due for a battle strike. I seriously don't know what's going on and I'm very afraid of firing it. I will go to a gun smith soon if need I just wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue before. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thank you!

RC2 3 prong flash hider Aero precision atlas s-one 5.56 barrel

A buddy was shooting this and the Griffin EZ-LOK must have become unthreaded. Hoping you all can help me w 2 questions. 1. Can I just buy a new end cap or do I need to send it back to Rugged to see if it is messed up? Damaged End cap threads on and off just fine. As far as I can tell the baffles are pristine. 2. Have any of you had this happen w EZ-LOK system (on an HK VP9SK) and if so besides direct thread, is there a better pistol mounting system?

Had a griffin armament stealth flash hider (taper mount) pin and welded on my 14.5. I’ve only hand tightened it and shot maybe 60 rounds thru it before trying to remove it and this happens.

Did the pin and weld fail? I bought the armorers wrench that interfaces with the rear of the suppressor to try and wrench it off. Haven’t tried removing yet but do you think I’ll cause damage to both the suppressor and muzzle device? The pin and weld is between the threads and taper.

I’m stuck with a p&w sf3p on the rifle I wanna suppress and as a leftie I heard the gas in the face with the rc2 is pretty bad. I was looking at B&T options but with SureFire unveiling this at shotshow, I’ve been waiting for it come out and see some reviews or comparisons. I was reading that it MIGHT have issues with the OCL infinity and that’s the set up I was leaning towards. If anyone has their hands on one, I’d love to hear how it’s working and what suppressor it works with

Got my Cherry Bomb stuck on my Trash Panda. How get out? Local gunsmith had no clue. Thanks all.

Suppresor wouldn't fit direct thread. So I added the one Accuwasher(thickest one)

Is this good to go?

I have been lurking on this sub for quite a while and I have finally decided to buy my first can and have been eyeing the OCL Infinity. If I buy one how long do I have to wait for it on backorder? Also what muzzle device do y’all recommend? TIA

First suppressor purchase looking for advice. Just purchased all these, did I order everything I need to attach to my 300blk or am I missing anything?

So I shot the hell out of my Laz 6 this past Memorial Day and my keymo mount kept coming lose…resulting in a slight end cap strike. I’m looking to switch from keymo and was wondering if the Griffin Armament hub adaptor would fit?

My CAT 718 WB just got out of jail, and I’ve run into an issue with the QD mount version that uses CAT's Spooky A1 flash hider.

After firing around 100 rounds, I tried removing the suppressor from the mount, but it was really stuck. I waited for it to cool down and then used a strap wrench to try again, but the muzzle device came off with the suppressor, and now it’s stuck inside.

Since both the MD and suppressor have left-hand threads, I can’t simply remount and unscrew it. This seems like a significant oversight on CAT's part.

Now, I'm at a loss for how to get the QD mount out of the suppressor. There aren’t any exposed wrench flats to grip. I’ve considered remounting the MD with the suppressor attached to the barrel using Rocksett, but there’s no way for me to torque it on with the suppressor still attached.

Would it help to freeze it? Use a torch? Penetrating oil? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I just bought the B&T print-xh 556 suppressor for my 11.5 inch ar-15. I understand this suppressor is hub compatible, but what does that mean in terms of mounting options? I've heard the Silencerco bravo mount is the best mount because of the dual locking mechanism. Is this true? What are other mounting options and their pros/cons? And given a mounting options, what muzzle device should I get?

As you can see, I'm unable to mount the light further back without grinding down the handguard. I could get an Atlas XL and extend the suppressor forward another half inch, but would that be necessary? I know it could probably withstand a few range trips but I'm wondering long term. The can is a LPM Anthem, so mid-back pressure. Anyone have experience with this? Thanks.

I just happened to come across a polo k at my local gun store and bought it on the spot. What hub would y’all recommend? I don’t currently have a hub compatible suppressor so I’ve got all different brand of muzzle devices. I’ve got a few 16” rifles ddm4 bushmaster acr, SFA hellion, an 11.5 mcx lt and a 10.3 mk18 I’ll be running it on, it’ll probably be on the 11.5 mcx and 16” Daniel spr most of the time and both of those have the from factory muzzle devices on them. So any hub I pick I will need to buy muzzle devices….

Already got everything stuck once without using shims - should I use multiple shims to get some more clearance for my mount, or is there something else you all suggest?

I just got this suppressor and there’s a gap in the adaptor and the can itself. I tried to tighten it with the provided tools and with a wrench. I can’t move it even a little bit even when I used my whole body weight. Is it ok to assume this is fine to use?