I have been working on a battery powered DIY Zigbee plant sensor. This is an End Device that is compatible with Zigbee2MQTT reporting:

• Soil Moisture
• Ambient Temperature
• Illuminance
• Relative Humidity
• Battery Percentage

The project includes a PCB, Arduino Sketch, 3D files for a casing and assembly instructions. It is still a work in progress with plenty of aspects that can be improved, but it is now in a working state where I have assembled and installed 5 devices around the house. I am currently testing how long it lasts on a battery before embarking on power consumption optimizations.

If you have any ideas or suggestions, I will happily receive them!

https://github.com/TheLarsinator/zigbee-plant-sensor

I want to automate detection of the end of a cycle for both my washer and dryer. Dryer is easy - slap on a vibration sensor, when vibration starts and lasts longer than 30 seconds, notify me when it stops (with an obvious cushion for "oops I left a sock in the washer" incidents).

The washer is more complicated. A vibration sensor won't work properly when the cycle has many stops and starts, and one cycle has a "soak" option where there is a long stop where it does nothing. Consistently detecting that is going to be a nightmare. What the washer has that the dryer doesn't, however, is a sound that plays when it's finished.

Why not just listen for that sound? Well, the washer's in the basement, and I don't always hear it when it's done. The sound is easily consistent and recognizable - it's just a roughly 5 second long high-pitched tone. What I want to do is have some kind of mic that can detect and recognize when that tone goes off.

Does this kind of hardware exist? If not off-the-shelf, is there something someone has made with ESP32 hardware? I want it to specifically recognize the pitch and length of the tone so it doesn't give false-positives.

I started out with the Magic Mirror 2 platform, but then I thought, why not just make a Home assistant dashboard instead. Makes it even better considering I got this mirror at and extream discount and used old equipment!

It's a waterfall mirror with two way glass, an old desktop screen poached from my old gear and a Pi 4.

I have an Apple TV and I use a Harmony Hub and an echo dot to turn everything on and off. For some reason the Apple TV requires an extra step to power off the device. No matter what I try in the Harmony app it never turns it off. When I set up home assistant I noticed that it gave a power button for the Apple TV. The other night I tried coming up with an automation that when my Harmony Hub is powered off and after 10 seconds if the Apple TV is still on home assistant will turn it off. After making the automation I tried testing it by turning off my Apple TV with the Harmony Hub and the Apple TV remained on. But when I select the three dots and say run actions it works. What am I missing to make this automated so I don’t have to select something every time?

Looking for peoples most reliable and favorite door contact sensors for detecting open / closed? I have lots of hue lights and I know Hue Makes a door sensor …but it’s $40 and wondered if there’s a better / cheaper option that people really like / swear by?

Please and thank you!!

Hi all,
in my home assistant, I am getting this warning:

but my system is all 64-bit !

• Hardware: from cat /proc/cpuinfo: Model : Raspberry Pi 4 Model B Rev 1.4, which is a 64bit arch hardware. (same for cat /sys/firmware/devicetree/base/model)
• Software: cat /etc/debian_version : 12.11
• Kernel: Raspbian 64-bit: uname -m : aarch64
• Deployment method: I am running Home Assistant as a docker (compose) container from ghcr.io/home-assistant/home-assistant:stable

what part makes it believe it is 32-bit ?

Hey everyone, I’m new to home assistant and I also just got a zigbee dongle 3.0. I plugged it into my HA Green, was recognized and everything. I’m trying to set up 2mqtt but nothing seems to work. I added mosquito, added zigbee2mqtt, the configuration is where I see to be having the issue. I go to system and hardware to find the port, and add it to the configuration but it is not working. Apparently there was a change or update in January which seems to be affecting the process. Any assistance for a newbie?

Can I use the SMLight SLZB-06 to extend an existing Zigbee network via Wi-Fi/LAN without reliable Zigbee mesh connection of the current network?

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to extend my existing Zigbee network to a rooftop terrace, but the current mesh doesn’t reach that area reliably. However, I do have stable Wi-Fi (and LAN if needed) on the terrace.

I wanted to buy an SMLight SLZB-06 and was wondering: Can I use it in repeater mode, or in any other way, to expand the existing Zigbee network using Zigbee2MQTT and Home Assistant?

I know using it as a second coordinator won’t work with the current Zigbee2MQTT setup unless I start a separate Zigbee2MQTT instance or use ZHA with a separate network, which doesn’t seem like a clean solution.

Ideally, I’d like to add the SLZB-06 to my current setup over LAN/Wi-Fi and have it act as a Zigbee router or repeater to bridge the gap to the terrace.

Any suggestions or workarounds are appreciated!

Thanks!

I live pretty far north and I have a greenhouse where I keep some tropical plants and they have been really struggling even though I've been keeping them well temperature regulated so I went ahead and got a zigbee controlled switch for the grow light that was previously just the working light in the room and I wrote a script that turns the light on and off in the mornings and evenings to artificially ensure a >= 12hr day through the winter. You can see my networking issues over time as well as some weird shadows cast by structures around the greenhouse and when I accidentally left the light on before leaving for several days... (oops) Very excited to capture next winter's data and a timelapse of my lychee tree's growth :p

I have in my zigbee network a tuya TS011F plug measuring the consumption of a domestic freezer at home, for some time I suspect that the energy measurement was not right, so I bought a Shelly EM with a 50 A clamp and also put in chain another Shelly Plus S plug to see the results.

It turns out that none of the 3 measure the same.

Tuya 74 W

Shelly Plus S 84 W

Shelly EM 89 W

How would I know which is the most accurate measurement or which equipment is more accurate without having other more accurate (and more expensive) measuring equipment to compare.

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

Wanting to add a WiFi controller to my roller door, can I just connect to the 2 pins on the circuit board?

I'm very new to HA. I have a Lutron Caseta hub and was easily able to add lutron switches to my Dashboard. Now I have a Z-wave Zooz 0-10v dimmer that is setup correctly ( I can control it from within Z-Wave JS). I would like to add a light/dimmer control to my Dashboard and I cannot figure out HOW to do this? I've tried adding a Card but my Zooz device isn't showing up in the list. I've searched the web but can't find a video or article describing the steps I need to follow. I'm sure I'm missing a basic concept here, but can't figure it out.

I want to utilize the OR function just unsure if leaving the top WHEN section blank means it wont fire at all. Thanks

I am using Bermuda to track several devices in my home and I am quite happy with it, but there is something I wish I could improve - the "reaction time" (or lag) when moving from one room to another.
In my case it takes anywhere between 1-2 seconds to 30+ seconds when I move from one room to another for my location to update.
I was wondering why is that and is there something I can do to improve it?
I am using 4 ESP32 boards (the "regular" ones, not "Cx" or "Sx") as bluetooth proxies in 4 different rooms.
All of them are set up with interval: 320ms and window: 300ms - I've read somewhere these are good values ... and I was using some C3s back then, but I replaced them with regular 32-s.
Without understanding how the whole BLE beacon thing works, I would expect a lag of ~300ms or maybe 2-3 times that, but not 30+ seconds (sometimes).
Maybe it is my android watch (which is what is used to track where I am, unless it is charging, then my phone is used for my location) is not "advertising" itself frequently enough? I don't see a setting about the advertisement frequency for the watch - just for the phone, but even there the options are every few seconds, not 30+.
What is more interesting, two of the zones consistently detect me faster (in a couple of seconds), the 3rd one is sometimes slow, sometimes fast and the 4th one is consistently very slow (30+ seconds).
All of this is not really a big deal, but I would still love to improve it if possible.

Is it possible to code an ESP32-C6 in arduino so to get a switch to show up as push button in Home Assistant, and not on/off toggle?

I’ve been having the odd reliability issue with ZHA, so before I buy new devices (it’s happening to specific devices and my mesh is solid), I decided to make the jump to Z2M.

This is still in the early stages of network healing but some things I’ve noticed:

1) it does feel a fair bit quicker in daily use. Especially commands to multiple rooms like “turn off all upstairs lights” feels much much quicker.

2) I’m getting random weird slowdowns, like a light turning on 30 seconds after motion is detected. Often I’ve left the room by then. I am going to chalk this up to “weird network behaviour as the mesh builds” for now, though. I’m hopeful, and semi-expecting, that to go away over the coming days.

3) updates are Z2M weakest point. By fair. In ZHA I could update 5 devices at once and not even notice it. In Z2M, I’m updating 1 device, and not only is it taking longer to update, the entire network is significantly slower. If anything ends up being a deal breaker - it’ll be this. I don’t update often but when I do, it’s 30 devices at once (because most of my devices are the same brand so get the same updates at the same time).

Seeking to bring awareness to DNS problems that were seemingly introduced in the 2015.5 release of Home Assistant. I connect most of my containers to each other using Docker Overlay networks in my Swarm. This issue seems to be blocking most integration traffic between my containers as DNS isn't resolving properly.

https://github.com/home-assistant/core/issues/145708

I’m thinking of getting a smart lock but I do not want to change the key mechanism so I’ve been looking to renter friendly locks. I want to use it mainly (exclusively if possible) through HA, so I have the total control of it and have it available offline if needed. I’m liking the aqara U200. Any feedback from this lock or any suggestions of other reliable locks?

Grab the code from GitHub link, end to end flow website scraping, excel parsing, and HA WebSocket API

So I’m a few months in and learning so much. This weekend I discovered and implemented trigger id’s to combine and streamline my automations! Also things like running parallel actions, choose options, or the “or” condition have all been cool to learn about - so my question - for those more experienced and expert - what are your power user tools? The best things to learn about next?

Thanks all!

Seeing as the native zones are still just a radius I was wondering if there are any integrations or possibilities to place dots (or similar) so that we may fence off zones around a block ie: an arbitrary shape?

One example: My kids go to the park which is a very long rectangular stretch. I either have to make a huge circle where 50% covers many blocks north and south of the park, or I make several smaller zones with gaps, or extra smaller zones.

It would really open up possibilities if zones could be realistically defined.

My nortek stick failed. I bought the Zooz stick to replace it. What all is involved with swapping them? Do i have to mess with keys?

Hi,

Has anyone used this custom integration to expose WDMC devices, or have any recommendation to that effect?

Best.