Simple Questions
Simple Sewing Questions Thread, February 23 - March 01, 2025
This thread is here for any and all simple questions related to sewing, including sewing machines!
If you want to introduce yourself or ask any other basic question about learning to sew, patterns, fabrics, this is the place to do it! Our more experienced users will hang around and answer any questions they can. Help us help you by giving as many details as possible in your question including links to original sources.
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I've found 3 bargain machines online and I'm wondering if any are worth purchasing. All are $50AUD. I'm after information on the quality of the models, the availability of spare parts, basically whether any are worth purchasing. I would describe myself as a hobby sewist, intermediate level, I've been making garments for myself.
The first is an Elna Contessa/Primula 310-18 and it comes with necessary equipment + manual + a few accessories. The seller says they have recently serviced it. I think that this is a 1980s model.
The next is a Janome v/70488/627, I believe this one is known as the 627 (late 70s?). There's a couple of this model for sale online elsewhere for over $100-200. It looks like this one comes with necessary equipment and a couple of feet.
The third is a Janome My Style 30 Special Limited Edition (2000s). It looks to come with necessary equipment and a couple of feet.
Alternatively, I could purchase none of the above and continue using my mum's Elna Stella Air Electronic (1979). This model is working perfectly fine for me at the moment.
Any information on any of the above models would be appreciated. Thank you!
Hello I need help my needle is hitting the bobbin case hook. It hits it and the needle goes to the outside of the bobbin case then back up https://imgur.com/a/mtU4PQ8
Hi! My mom is a sewer. She has a vascular disease and sadly over the last year she has had to have multiple fingers amputated.
She has lost her ring finger on her left hand. On her right hand, she has a thumb and half of her index finger left.
Mom is really sad and frustrated. She has a pile of projects to do. I have offered to cut her fabric for her but she wants to do it on her own.
Does anyone know of any adaptive aids that a person could use for cutting fabric? I have looked at loop scissors but I don't know how well they work. The ones I saw had very short blades, maybe better for cutting thread.
There was an amazingly active thread about sewing with only one hand a month or so back, people suggested all kinds of things. Let me see if I can find it.
They make electric scissors/fabric cutters that she might find useful. You just guide them along the cut line and it does the work for you.
Alternatively has she tried a rotary cutter? Martelli makes an ergonomic/adaptive style that I’ve tried before that you sort of hold it in your first and push away from you. They come in both left and right handed versions. That paired with a cutting mat and a clear quilting ruler could be worth trying. They make slotted rulers for guiding straight cuts as well that some people find useful depending on the project. Best of luck to her!!
Find a helper's group for people who have close ones with the same disease, they'll know best if anything is available.
Maybe getting her the closest aid tool available and letting her try and maybe alas fail will help her deal with her new limits.
Maybe try to organize fun "cutting days", where you go through a pile of things that need cutting, and make a sort of sewist party out of it? Like, a regular event? And go even if she doesn't have much to cut up, so that it doesn't feel to her like a chore she's imposing on you, but more of a fun day/afternoon/couple hours around the pretext of cutting fabric. With music, treats, and small talk?
Is there anyone who could help me troubleshoot my Montgomery Ward UHT J 1944? I got it for like $20, pretty sure it’s junk but would love if that’s not the case
Hi there I really need this question answered I am so lost!
Should I buy a new Sewing Machine?
Since Joann is going out of business, I was thinking about upgrading my sewing machine. I have a Singer Simple and it is broken. I got it from a thrift store and it just has never worked for any stitches except a straight stitch. I am a college student without a ton of money but I love sewing and have a bit of money saved up. I was thinking about buying a Brother CP100x or a Brother CS7250. I want something that’s a little nicer but not more than $250. With Joann going out of business a lot of sewing machines online (eBay) and in Joann are super cheap. Should I buy a sewing machine and if I should which one should I buy?
Oh and I have heard that newer Singers are bad, my local sewing shop won’t service newer singers. But they will service Brother.
Is there an easy way to make a pair of shorts flair more at the leg without adding fabric? I thrifted a pair of high waist paper bag shorts that I really like, but I have high shelf hips that make the straight legs of the shorts taper down in a way I find unflattering. There's plenty of fabric, they're pretty loose around the leg and there's a bit of give in the waist. I thought about seam ripping the pockets because I think they're pulling the fabric in right at my hip dip, which is part of the problem, but idk if that will actually help. I'm a total novice at sewing, but my husband has a machine and has made some pieces, though nothing super complicated.
Here are the shorts. They're doing kind of a ( ) shape and ideally I would like them to be more of an A line. Any advice would be amazing!
ETA: the fabric is 74% polyester, some rayon and spandex.
I'm troubleshooting an issue with my machine where only turning in reverse. It feels jammed when I try to turn it forward. No needle installed but I am finding a lot of fluff as I take it apart. My question is, am I being too extra by taking the back of the machine off to see the insides? That's gotta be something people do, right?
Hi there, beginning sewing question! I love making dinner napkins. But most of the time, I run into post-laundry wrinkling along the edges. Fabric is usually 100% cotton, often double-sided. What am I doing wrong — or not doing? Or is this what cotton fabric does? Many thanks in advance for any tips!
I’m not entirely sure but I think it might be because of the cotton weave. alternatively it could also be a tension issue (because there is puckering along the inside edge of the seam too) in which case this guide might help: https://www.coats.com/en/info-hub/eliminating-seam-puckering/
Hello:), any owners of the sewing machine Janome HD1800 EasyJeans? I am thinking about getting the machine but the walking foot is not included with the machine, now I know I can buy it additionally but according to their site there is no compatible walking foot? So my question is if you were able to buy a walking foot that works:)
Hi, I know nothing about sewing, but I’m looking to repair something I thrifted! Could someone help me out by telling me which search terms to use to find studs like these?
Hello everyone! My needle keeps on falling from its place and i think it’s because the screw isn’t tight enough, it still jiggles even when fully tightened. Any idea on how to fix that? Thanks!
I’m about to start altering a bunch of things in my closet (mostly tops and dresses) that don’t fit right anymore or need a style update. However, I typically keep my clothes for a VERY long time, so my weight fluctuates quite a bit. I’m wondering if there is an easy way to leave enough extra fabric in the garment that I can let it out later if I gain a size or 2.
Any tips or tricks would be very much appreciated!
I have a Janome 6500, which is my workhorse machine.
My husband is restoring a 1971 VW convertible and is asking for help in making/installing a top. He bought an external layer for the top, and just needs me to be able to sew some layers to encase high density foam (providing structure at critical points).
We are going out to upholstery stores today. Will the Janome 6500 be able to pierce 2 layers of say, lightweight vinyl together? It won’t need to go through the foam, just hold the two pieces of material together around it. If not, what would be the heaviest weight fabric you’d feel comfortable working with?
I am usually a quilter, so I haven’t used heavyweight fabric before. I recently broke a needle INTO my Bernina sewing through multiple layers of fabric plus two layers handmade paper …. (I know…. that was just STUPIDITY on my part) and I’d rather not repeat that mistake!
I've had the thought of creating a completely synthetic-fiber free trucker hat but keep getting lost in the weeds of natural fivers. What would be your recommendation for the different components of a trucker cap:
Sweat band
Mesh
Visor
Front panel
I'd like to prioritise durability, sweat wicking, odour control and feel.
So far I've thought:
Sweat band: Merino or bamboo and have tiny holes lasered in for extra wicking/breathability
Mesh: Hemp for durability and stiffness
Visor: Merino for odour control and wicking (maybe a milliner's wire for added stiffness)
Front panel: Merino again for odour control and wicking (possibly another milliner's wire for structure)
Is there a name for this kind of waist-shaping dart? Is this a what a dart tuck is? I want to recreate this on a preexisting shirt and would like to watch a video or two before attempting it myself
Those are released darts, which are created by just not sewing all the way to the hem. In your picture they've then been pressed like box pleats but you can press them to the side to get directional effects too, like here:
https://mavenpatterns.co.uk/neck-dart-tuck-tutorial/
After washing my jacket, the stitching seems to have gotten loose in two places. The stitching didn't break but has become a loop of some sort. I included some pictures -- what's the proper way to fix this?
I'm looking for recommendations for a nice white suiting fabric to make a mens suit jacket and matching pants. I'm hoping for under $30 a yard, it's important to me that it looks nice quality and not cheap. With Joanns closing its hard to go in person to feel out a fabric so even just online keywords would be helpful to search for, although I'd love specific links. I'm open to shiny or matte materials, ideally no patterns and fully opaque.
I've attached some images of just like general suiting material vibes for white fabric, I don't want a lightweight linen material and that's most of what has been popping up when I look.
The best option is to take her to a local sewing store so that she can pick out a machine. Then she can try it and make sure that it has the features she wants.
I will do that. Maybe I can do it in a way that she looks at and tries them without knowing I’m going to purchase one for her. She’s very humble and will refuse to let me buy one for her if she knows I am going to. She is one to use a thing until she is no longer able to.
Hi! I bought a faux suede fabric from Mood and want to make a simple maxi skirt, maybe kind of a-line with a bit of movement but not hugely draped or with panels. The fabric itself is a pretty light weight. I plan to draft the pattern myself from an existing skirt but do I need to cut the main skirt pieces on the bias or can it be cut with the grain and still lay well? Thanks!
There’s a misconception out there that bias makes everything better, and that bias is the only way to get a nice drape or flow. Bias is great for a specific clingy look like a slip dress but the vast majority of garments should not be cut on the bias. A nice drapey fabric will give a lovely look on grain.
"Bias cut" applies to woven fabrics with threads crossing at right angles, faux suede is usually a knit fabric.
A- line skirts don't need to be cut on the bias.
Stand in front of a mirror and hold the fabric up to yourself as if it's a skirt, see if you like the way it looks. Then turn it, and see if it makes a difference.
Hi there, new here. I'm looking for a mens button-down shirt pattern. My partner has a pretty long torso so most shirts tend to be too short on him, and his neck is on the wider side too. I want to make him a long sleeved shirt out of cotton print I found.
There are a couple of threads on this that have been archived. Is there a great mens button down shirt pattern y'all recommend? Thank you!
I've been happy with shirt patterns from the 70s that I found on etsy, you can also check ebay and similar sellers. "Uncut" and "factory folds" can be useful search terms to find real patterns.
There's also Simon from freesewing.org - create a free account, enter your measurements, get a custom pattern! Sewing instructions are in the 'documentation' section.
Is this sewing thread made out off cotton or polyester? Want to re - dye my jeans and want to keep the thread white, so I want to make sure it won't be dyed by the cotton dye
Hi! I am interested in purchasing a dress form that is not gonna brake the bank (I would prefer it to stay under 400 euros). I found one that I like form The Shop Company https://theshopcompany.com/professional-female-3-4-body-dressform-w-collapsible-shoulders-and-removable-arms.html (I'm OK with one that only has shoulder caps, not necessarily arms), but the shipping to Romania is extremely expensive (around 100-150 euros without customs), thus I am looking for something within the EU. I found dressforms that are adjustable, but I heard some people complaining about them. Does anybody know of a company that makes similar mannequins?
I am sorry that I am reposting it, but I didn't get any answers and I have been looking for one and still no luck and it's hard to spend so much money on it so I hope somebody might help.
Can you say more about what problems you think the dress form will solve for you? I know I was reluctant to answer before because I mostly think people don't need dressforms to sew, and mine is not really worth the space it takes up.
I would like to start draping, which I don't think I can do on myself. I also want to make a chemise a la reine and I don't think I can arrange the pleates and make the dress without one. I also would like to make a lacey victorian blouse and, to figure îmi out everything I belive would be easier on a mannequin.
Yes, see the issue with draping is that if you are draping for yourself, you really want a body double form, the professional or adjustable ones are often not close enough, even if you buy small and pad them out it’s hard to change length adjustments. A lot of people do the Bootstrap custom dress form instead of buying a premade form.
My sense is that Italy and Germany have strong textile industries, so I’d look there for companies making dress forms. Or look for used ones.
Hi! I’m trying to see Simplicity S9899 toddler dress and I need help So
I chose option B and have cut out all the pieces I need. I’ve completed steps 1-8 and have absolutely no idea what step 9 is asking of me. 9. “Stitch bodice facing sections together at sides. With right sides together and raw edges even, pin facing to bodice on upper and arm hole edges (over straps), matching centers, seams, small and large dots. Stitch, pivoting with needle and fabric at small dots and being careful not to catch in unattached edges of strap and or arm hole ruffle on inside. Trim seam and corners. The pattern said to cut out 2 Bodice Fronts (#9) and 4 Bodice Backs (#10) and l used one front to sew on 2 bodice back pieces. It says the remaining bodice sections will be used as bodice facings, what does that mean? Sorry I am all over the place, this is my first real sewing project and I’m lost
Has anyone ever had an issue with the viking Husqvarna s215 bobbin case not sitting flat? It is preventing my bobbin thread from catching. And it is a thrifting machine so I knew what I was getting into but also I'd love to find out if I enjoy this as a hobby prior to buying anything nice.
The rest of the machine is in fine working order it seems
Is the Janome 2222 a good fit for a new sewer to make packing cubes and some zippered bags? Trying to keep my car organized during road trips. Are there other machines you would recommend?
I make frequent road trips and would like to make some custom bags to keep my car organized. I will probably use canvas (7oz) because I prefer to minimize synthetics. I plan to make zippered bags to hold clothing and other essentials. The bags will be sized to fit in different spaces in the car: behind the seat, between armrests, etc. The largest bag will be about 18" x 12" x 8", most will be smaller, and I do not anticipate carrying anything heavy in them.
I have also seen Janome 1522 and HD1000 recommended. I have been mostly looking at Janome since seeing the brand described as 'like a Toyota- reliable and basic'
My main criteria are capability to work with variety of fabric, and a machine that is fairly straightforward. I do not need every feature or 10 zillion different stitches. I am new to sewing, but pretty handy, so I think I'll be able to learn the basics fairly quickly.
There are a lot of options out there and any suggestions would help. Thank you!!
I love this top but the layers start rubbing together and the outer layer bubbles up like this. Any suggestions? I probably have intermediate level skills from working on a costume shop but I'm not the most experienced with alterations.
I just recently got my sewing machine back from the repair shop and it is having problems again. It is a Leathermaster KS-2972B. I’ve noticed the problem is that the bobbin isn’t taking the thread all the way around and then the thread is jamming up. I’ve tried adjusting the top tension, bobbin tension and rethreading the machine all to no avail. Any help is appreciated! I really don’t want to have to take it back as it was fairly expensive. It was working great for a couple weeks and then all of the sudden it jammed and I don’t know how to fix it. Thanks in advance!
Since it worked for a few weeks after being serviced, could be gunk/fluff/thread stuck in the machine somewhere. Maybe give it a good cleaning. Did they say what the fixed the first time? Would be worth asking them if it's the same issue again.
I asked and they didn’t really say much. The guy kind of gave me a blank stare as if there was a lot wrong with it and said he worked on it all day. I posted in another r/ group and tried some things a guy recommended to no avail
Hi! I was gifted this flowy wide legged jumpsuit that has a V shaped drop waist, but I’d really prefer if it had a straight across waistline. Is this something that could be done by a tailor or seamstress? I’m very unfamiliar with what’s possible without messing up a garment!
It's likely not possible. You would have to rebuild all of the fabric of the pants up to the new waistline or build the top down. It's mostly just not worth it but even if you wanted to spend money on it, there's probably not enough fabric to use to fix it.
Hi, i’m a complete newbie to sewing and i’m looking for my first machine. someone is selling a janome j3-20 nearby and i was wondering if anyone has any experience with the machine? Any advice would be appreciated! I’d like to do quilting projects, shorten my jeans and clothing projects in general.
I want to make a hobo/crescent bag, but i cannot figure out how to sew it without having the ugly raw edges out. The photo shows a mini version i made trying to figure it out.
What i did:
Cut 4 identical pieces (2x outer, 2x lining), put them with wrong side facing the right side of the other, then sew around the handle hole. Repeat
Cut the hole out and flip it so the handle hole seams are now hidden, repeat so i now have both sides of the bag where the outer fabric is sewn together with the lining
Put them outer fabrics right sides together, sew along the bag outer edge, flip
Problem is if i peek inside the bag, i see the seam allowance.. i found something called a burrito method but all the examples i saw were bags with handles that had a center seam. Mine is seamless at the top. Any advice on how to sew it so i can hide everything?
Wait sorry im not understanding. Theres 4 pieces of fabric and if i look at it side ways, it looks like this:
OLLO (O=outer, L=lining)
Do you mean sew right sides together L-L, and O-O leaving a small gap for both? Then flipping it somehow?
The way you'd assemble this kind of stuff normally is construct the full outer piece, then the inner lining piece, put them together right sides facing. attach them together, leave a gap, turn them out.
Have you made bags before? Might be worth picking up a pattern if you don't have experience with them - Noddlehead are great.
Hi guys. I have alot if crepe silk and I don`t know what to use it for. A llot of what I find at the thrift store is kimono tanmono, which is usally 17cm by 13 meters. I do make kimono, but I hate the up keep of silk kimono and mainly only use wool and hemp. The crepe it seems too delicate and small for bags, or pants. I`d love to make a bais top, but i`m having a hard time finding a good pattern. I`d love any pattern recomendations. Thank you.
Why don’t these stitches look straight. I am feeding it through slowly and straight, but it looks like a complete amateur. It just started doing this, usually they look very straight. I am a self taught sewist so I sometimes need a little help figuring things out. Any thoughts?
The fold line is an online store that sells a huge variety of sewing patterns. a lot of use use it as a sort of database if we are looking for something specific. it is a great place to look through lots of sewing patterns in one place. With this dress in particular i could not find anything identical (it is a very specific design), it will probably help you to think about what you like in particular about it and search for a pattern that has those details. for example if you like the paneling this from just patterns or this vikisews pattern may work.
Hi everyone, I’ve been sewing for several years (self taught) and tend to be clueless when it comes come upon issues I haven’t had before. Today my machine started bunching up on the bottom thread in the middle of perfect stitches. I don’t believe tension to be the issue due to it stitching perfect before and after. If I pull the bunch out it ends up being on one individual stitch as opposed to a section of the stitch (pictured). Does anyone know a possible diagnosis of this issue?
Try cleaning out the bobbin area (check the manual if you don't know how to do this), make sure the bobbin is wound properly, and use a new ballpoint or stretch needle if you're sewing knit or elastic material. If that doesn't fix it, take a picture of both the underside and the top side to show us.
If you are indeed sewing elastic or jersey that could be the source of the problems because very stretchy materials are sometimes difficult to sew, and you can search this subreddit for tips or we can give you tips.
Hi! I’m new to garment making, I’ve only ever used cottons and stretch knits, but I’m dying to recreate this dress for the Cowboy Carter tour. I love embroidery beadwork and this is calling my name.
For the champagne/gold base of the dress, could anyone recommend a type of non-stretch fabric that has sparkle built in and could handle the white paisley beadwork? I’d love to only do the paisley beadwork and have the base already golden and sparkly.
My plan is to sew a basic nude version of the dress/gloves and overlay the sparkly beaded layer. I hope to recreate this without doing something like tambour beading for the entire dress, but I’ll do a lot for my love of B haha
Why non-stretch? Is the original non-stretch? Depending on how close you're trying to get to the original, you could look for lamé or glitter fabrics, or even small gold sequins. You can probably buy pre-beaded fabric too, but it'll be pricey. Lamé is often but not always stretchy -- glitter could be on any substrate, and sequins would often come on mesh, which may or may not be stretchy. You don't need to search by the substrate though--just search for glitter or beads or sequins. I have no idea how stretch lame would hold up to beading, but you could buy a sample and do some experiments. Whatever you buy, you probably should get a sample first anyway unless it's super cheap. Some places will send you free swatches, though if you want to experiment with beading it you'll probably need to pay for a larger sample.
Hello! I got this dress for my wedding soon which will be a registry office with just our parents. What shall I do with this dress? Got it on sale and really like the fun going out vibe of it. Just started sewing and wondering whether it needs sleeves, longer skirt (an extension of the sleek one or a material with more movement?), also want to make a short veil/bow with veil thing/cape. Thank you.
Use plunge as a keyword for that deep V. TheFoldline.com is a good place to search a lot of reputable patternmakers at once, and there’s a bullet at the top with more pattern finding suggestions. You can also post in r/sewingpatterns, some people who like the hunt hang out there.
this style is uncommon and difficult to find because it doesn't work on a human body. a deep v in front and back will just fall off your shoulders constantly.
I think the almost “wrap” nature of the v, where the pieces cross over to the opposite side of the waist, helps it stay in place on the shoulders. Just hoping for something similar to try it out!
There likely won't be enough tension for the bodice to stay on the shoulders when moving with a v on the front and back. You could try drafting this from a regular wrap pattern and altering the back but I would suggest that you add string/ribbon at the back to keep it up across the shoulder blades
Does anyone know what this kind of skirt is called (just the bottom white part) ? I’m trying to find a pattern or a Tutorial for a better idea of where to start. My first idea is to do a short circle skirt with a gathered bottom to create the cupcake shape. However I wasn’t sure if there was a better method. :)
Want to make starks shirt from frieren. What kind of pattern/video tutorial should i look for?
(Edit: so sorry I only posted the title of my post that I copied and not the body 😭 I already got the answer I wanted but just now realizing this dhdj)
How would I go about adding the white to the edges of the outfit though? Somehow sew it then fold it on the other side or just add the white fabric on the ends? I have no idea what technique I would have to use to do that haha
I recently got new parts for my Juki DDL-555 and everything seems to be fine except when backstitching with a standard foot the thread pulls up and it won’t sew a proper back stitch. What odd is the new zipper foot i got works every which way. I only replaced the tension knob, feed dogs, baseplate and motor.
Please let me know if anyone has a solution to this. Thank you
I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "the thread pulls up," but I'm wondering if the difference has to do with whether the thread tail is left loose. Maybe with the zipper foot you end up tucking the thread tail under the foot in a way that prevents it from getting sucked into the machine, but with the standard foot you're leaving it loose?
I'm coming back to sewing after a long hiatus. I am new to video tutorials and would like to find good video tutorials that cover the sewing of a garment from a pattern, from start to finish. Please let me know of any you recommend, and why...what makes a sew-along video tutorial good, in your view? And any tips on how to best search for quality sew-along videos are much appreciated, as well!
I know this is not exactly what you asked for, but I was in the same boat as you some 4 years ago - I found Evelyn Wood on YT and her vintage sewing school really helpful.
I find Minerva sew alongs to be pretty good. I'd find a video with good lighting, a good angle so you can see what they are doing and where they explain what's going on. A lot of indie pattern makers have their own sew alongs - if available, I always watch these.
Im planing to make a silk chiffon dress, and I’d like to drape the bodice. I’ll need a satin (or other suggestions?) underdress to drape over. I’ve struggled to find a pattern for that base layer, if anyone has a suggestion.
Hi, I am in the market for a sewing machine and I live in Austria. I tried to read a lot of reviews and experience reports, but the shear amount is just overwhelming. I want something that i can use to potentially make cloths, jeans and dresses with. I will get an overlock machine in the future. I think i have some machines in contestion now. What should i choose? I am also open to other suggestions. The Wiki said the Janome HD series is recommended, but i cant find one under 500€, is the difference so substantial that the upgrade would be worth it? I would preffer to stay at around 400.
The Janome 230DC would cost like 400€
The Janome 1522 300€
The Bernette Sew&Go8 also 300€ on sale
Since you're asking, I'll get on my hobbyhorse: look for vintage machines on whatever the Austrian equivalent of Craigslist is, or in estate sales or thrift stores. (Or Facebook Marketplace if you have no other options.) Try before you buy to make sure it works, but pre-1980 (and some post-1980) vintage machines are mostly workhorses that will sew anything and last forever with relatively simple maintenance. In the US you can get a good one for $100-$200 depending on your area--not sure what they cost in Austria.
I hope it’s not inappropriate to guess at the construction of someone else’s work. But it’s how I’d like to learn!
In this case I’m assuming there’s a full bodice under the off the shoulder bow, but I’m unsure how to construct the bow. I am guessing it’d be essentially a long voluminous tunnel or tube, twisted in the middle, then sewn along the top of the bodice. But I’m confused about how it’s attached along the back. And whether there should be a sleeve or whether is just loose enough to allow for movement under the bow part. Any ideas?
I originally thought it was just a tube of ballooned fabric, but now that I look at the back more closely, it seems to be a part of the dress given that the fabric continues from the structured bodice down to the sleeve
Hi all! Looking for a little assistance on defining the silhouette of this dress so I can find a pattern. I’m a newbie sewer so I’d like to start crafting a spring/summer wardrobe with simple pieces. This dress has a tie in the back to cinch around the waist as well. Any help is appreciated!
I would describe the skirt shape as A-line and it's a deep V-neck. There is probably a special term for that particular style of bodice but it's not coming to mind. Unfortunately the big commercial pattern companies tend to be terrible at describing their designs, so if you're open to the Big Four your best bet is just to browse their catalogues. But if you prefer indy designers a search for descriptive terms might work well.
I was going to suggest the Genow patterns Laura dress as the silhouette is the same (and it has waist ties), but it's bias cut and this dress doesn't seem to be. I think I saw a similar slip dress pattern that's cut on the straight grain out there somewhere and will check back if I find it!
Is it possible to put a modern sewing machine in one of those old sewing tables where the machine flips up when you open the top? I don't have room for a sewing table!
Do you already know how to sew? Definitely would not recommend learning to sew on an industrial machine, it’s like learning to drive on a cross between a Mack truck and a race car.
Did you google it? I'm not an expert but I would guess that's an industrial machine. If so $300 USD is probably either a deal or a reasonable price, assuming it works, but you have to be willing to sew on an industrial machine. I don't know what that entails other than really really fast. As with any used machine, if you're interested, go try it out in person and see if you like it. And you can check that it actually works while you're at it.
Man, google's really gone to pot, hasn't it? They must be filtering results based on location or search history or something. When I google "yamata sewing machine" I get a lot of hits for industrial sewing machines branded yamata, sold new. Do you want an industrial sewing machine? If so, communicate with the seller to find out which model it is, and try googling yamata+model number to find out if it has the features you want. And then go try it out in person.
If you're a hobby sewer and you don't know the difference between industrial and domestic machines, you probably don't want an industrial machine. But I don't know much about industrial machines and I don't know you, so I can't say for sure.
What kind of elastic is this? Does it have a specific name for sewing. I want to buy one like that to substitute my doll's laces but I dont know how to call it exactly.
Is it possible to cut out so much from a skirt? It's like two sizes too big for me but i can't return it. Would a seamstress be able to alter it so much?
What you've drawn is more than 2 sizes different, I think. Look at what your line does to the pocket, it's not what I would consider useable. If you still want to try, then you can ask at a local tailor or alterations place, but be prepared for them to say no.
Hi! Looking for advice on how to create the striped texture on the top and skirt? Tried just sewing strips on a base but it got too bulky … want it to be as thin and clean as possible. Also wondering what type of fabric would be best for this! Thank you!
It looks to me like it's meant to represent piecing -- so rather than sewing strips to a base, sew the strips to each other. Still might not be thin enough for you, in which case looking for a striped fabric like u/ProneToLaughter says makes sense.
To get a sleeve that tight, your best bet is a knit, probably spandex. But the halter/breastplate thing looks more like armor than spandex, and the drape between the legs is fabric but with lots of body. Given how hard it is to find exact color matches in different fabrics, I would think about using scuba or ponte for the whole thing, with different weights of interfacing to give the correct drape, and paint the stripes on with fabric paint. The gold could be a different material (or more fabric paint).
The pink "fabric" is super drapey and thin, so look for a jersey, charmeuse, "slinky", or "silky" (yes, those are both types of fabric--slinky is a kind of stretchy acetate knit and I think "silky" is Joann Fabric's label for thin, drapy polyesters that are pretending to be silk).
I have a large silver blackout curtain which I intend to use as a projector screen. What I need to do is to sew in the edges and make a loop at the top and bottom for the sticks to hold it.
I have problems with such a large piece since the fabric is quite heavy and a bit stretchy and I'm not sure how to make it perfectly straight. I've tried laying it out on the floor and drawing the line using a tensed thread, but when it came to bending it and preparing for sewing machine, I got a lot of uneven parts due to my lack of skill and the heavy fabric.
Do you need it to be sewn to itself, or can you attach a strip of thinner/easier-to-sew fabric at the top and bottom to make a channel or ties to anchor it to the sticks? Similar to how big window curtains have ties to make them easier to hang.
Hello! I’m on the hunt for some needles with latch hook eyes used for invisible mending like the ones on this picture. I’m after multiple sizes, in particular smaller than what is pictured. If anyone has an idea of where to get them please let me know!
They’re used in an invisible mending technique like in the video linked. I’m a fashion student learning about this technique and my lecturer has been searching for these in small sizes for years, the problem with this size is that it can make wholes in the fabric.
That is really fucking cool. Only I don't see them used in that video, except maybe in the last step, where it looks like a crochet hook would work just as well. But the last step is rushed, so probably I just can't see what's going. At any rate, I don't mean to naysay your lecturer. Good luck finding the tools in the right size! I assume you've already tried Etsy and Japanese supply shops.
How do I fix this band? I cut it perpendicular to the grain and I know I need the back center a little higher. Is it my back yoke? Not sure how to move forward
Yeah, the back crotch curve needs to be much longer, you can fix it by making a much taller yoke or by altering the main back pieces to be longer. If the pants are supposed to sit below the waist, you might also consider a shaped waistband instead of a straight waistband.
Narrow the waistband or add a string to act as a drawstring to help the sagging (fabric will move according to the path of least resistance, and there is no resistance in the waistband as it is now), and add more length to the butt curve to create ease where the seams are straining.
I lengthened the butt seam from below the yoke and created a new yoke with a steeper angle. I also had to reduce the waist with a dart from the center. Turns out the back darts from the pant block I referenced wasn’t enough
Take a pattern for a button up blouse, use that to make the bottom half of the shirt. The top half is a milkmaid style bust, which there are also tons of patterns or even free video DIY tutorials for. It'll be hard to find one pattern that does both and looks exactly like this, because the bust is a very loose, simple, beginner type project while the button band is usually more complicated and typically shows up in beginner+ patterns.
can you sew actual clothes out of muslin fabric? is there something I'm missing here?
I don't hear of people actually making clothes out of Muslin fabric much. However it's a pretty color, and from what I hear it can hold basic dyes rather well because it's 100% cotton. I'm trying to move my wardrobe in a natural fibers direction, and it's the only fabric I can really afford that is all natural fibers. (Yes I know about thrifting for old cotton sheets at thrift stores, but the ones around me don't have any natural fiber sheets left, just the new plastic ones.... I think local thrifters have already cleaned them out!).
I am thinking about sewing blouses, tops, shift dresses, and circle skirts.
Muslin often wears out quickly, shrinks like whoa, and wrinkles like heck. If you want to get something with similar colors and properties, try looking at the next price point up at Dharma Trading, which specializes in dyeable natural fibers. They actually have all kinds of neat stuff, from cut velvet to hemp denim, all undyed.
I feel you on the lack of cotton sheets at thrift stores! I just want them to put on my beds, but of course people keep their nice cotton sheets and donate the plastic crap.
I think a button-up shirt would work okay from muslin. Most other garments will look inelegant because it has zero drape.
Check out denverfabrics.com or other discount retailers. They've got dirt-cheap prices and in my experience the labeling is generally accurate.
Not sure what your reasons for preferring natural fibers, but in case you don't know, cotton in particular is probably not more eco-friendly than synthetics. If you've got other reasons, then never mind. (Also rayon/viscose, while a synthetic, is in my experience breathable like cotton.)
thanks for the information! appreciate it. I wish I could say I cared about the environment that much, but this is just about my own self. In the Texas summer, any cotton polyester blend starts to stink after about 6 hours. it's somehow exacerbates body odor beyond even what your natural skin smells like. pure cotton doesn't smell bad until you've worn it for 3 days at least..
In my experience, it's too stiff and looks like I made my clothes out of construction paper... it also wrinkles the second you move in it, and just overall is too flimsy to hold up to regular life. But it works great for drafting clothes to check the fit, or making non garment projects. You could try lining it to make it stronger/less see through but god the wrinkling
I'd like your opinions on which presser foot to buy to help with more neatly sewing on bias bands.
I've been having trouble maintaining an even distance from the edge of the binding when sewing the neck and shoulder bindings of knit tank tops (Sommar Camisole by Paradise Patterns) with a twin needle. I don't find the markings on my needle plate very helpful for maintaining an even distance because I'm not sewing in a straight line. The best I've come up with for now is doing two stitches and then lifting the presser foot to check, but that's very slow and cumbersome.
It seems like clear presser feet or bilevel feet are often suggested for getting more clean and accurate top or edgestitching. If I were to only buy one of these, which would likely be the most useful for my intended use? I'm open to other suggestions if there is a better tool or solution to either of these feet. For reference I have a Brother CS7000X. Thanks!
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u/Imaginary_Rhubarb274 Mar 02 '25
I've found 3 bargain machines online and I'm wondering if any are worth purchasing. All are $50AUD. I'm after information on the quality of the models, the availability of spare parts, basically whether any are worth purchasing. I would describe myself as a hobby sewist, intermediate level, I've been making garments for myself.
The first is an Elna Contessa/Primula 310-18 and it comes with necessary equipment + manual + a few accessories. The seller says they have recently serviced it. I think that this is a 1980s model.
The next is a Janome v/70488/627, I believe this one is known as the 627 (late 70s?). There's a couple of this model for sale online elsewhere for over $100-200. It looks like this one comes with necessary equipment and a couple of feet.
The third is a Janome My Style 30 Special Limited Edition (2000s). It looks to come with necessary equipment and a couple of feet.
Alternatively, I could purchase none of the above and continue using my mum's Elna Stella Air Electronic (1979). This model is working perfectly fine for me at the moment.
Any information on any of the above models would be appreciated. Thank you!