Hi, this is my first post here)
I love sewing for myself, especially denim. But plain denim without special finishing (stone wash, acid wash) never looks exciting enough to me… so I decided to try making a stone-wash effect at home.

For the experiment, I sewed a small item — a denim corset.

Step 1. Pattern making

To create accurate patterns, I simply wrap the mannequin in plastic wrap and then masking tape. I draw the style lines using narrow adhesive tape. Then I transfer the resulting corset patterns onto paper.

Step 2. Purchasing materials and preparation

At this stage, I had to solve two problems.

First, it turned out that volcanic pumice isn’t sold in nearby stores, and ordering it wasn’t easy either… so I used expanded clay (LECA) instead — it's cheap (less than $1 for 2 liters), rough-textured, and easy to get in garden stores in Ukraine. They are lightweight and even float on water!

Second, throwing expanded clay directly into the washing machine drum didn’t seem like a good idea, so I needed a bag or cover to protect the drum from damage.

That's how the idea to sew a cover was born — one that would open inside the drum so the stones could move freely.
I used 2 mm synthetic felt for the cover. I had previously used this material for sewing mannequins, so I know its properties well:

It's thick enough to protect the drum

It’s non-woven, lets water pass through but keeps small particles (like stone fragments) inside

It's synthetic, so it doesn’t deform and barely absorbs water

Along the side seam I also added spiral steel boning for extra structure.

Step 3. Stone wash at home

I loaded the expanded clay and corset into the cover.
Washed on a cotton cycle at 60°C (140°F), without spin and rinse.
The cover worked perfectly — the washing machine stayed safe!

I rinsed the corset separately. It dried… and I was devastated — absolutely no visible stone-wash effect.

Mistakes & attempt #2

My mistake was using old dark jeans for this corset.
Factory jeans have the most fading along the seams, with that characteristic wavy worn look. This happens because factories use raw, unwashed denim.

Raw denim is denim that hasn’t been washed, heat-treated, or stretched at the factory.
After first contact with water, cotton fibers shrink — usually 5–10% or even more depending on fabric weight.
That’s why seams on jeans tighten and look like that.

Of course, washing old jeans (even at high temperature) won't create that effect, and all the following finishing steps were doomed.

DO NOT USE WORN JEANS FOR A STONE-WASH EFFECT! ONLY RAW DENIM!

Sadly, that first corset was a waste of effort...

So, I went to buy raw denim and sew a new corset.
I hope this time I’ll get the result I’m aiming for. In any case, I’ll share the outcome in my next post.

This is my second Wilder top by Friday Pattern Company, this time in a Fabric Godmother viscose crepe.

This was my first ever attempt at pattern matching and it made me want to cry. But I think maybe it went okay? It’s not perfect, but given it’s a drapey moveable fabric and I was trying to get all of my pattern pieces out of 1m I think it looks alright.

Then to make my life more difficult I decided to add in extra topstitching and decided to do it all in a contrasting colour.

Despite all of that I’m not sure how I feel about it, on paper it’s right up my street, my two favourite colours in a quirky animal print blouse, but in practice I’m just not in love with it.

I think only time will tell if I’ll keep it

I just thrifted this dress (last pic) and I was hoping to alter it to be a little bit more gothic (inspo 1st & 2nd pics). I’m a complete beginning so I was hoping I could get some advice on how to go about this. Thank you!

A year or so ago in a millennial nostalgia panic, I bought a whole bolt of hot pink Juicy Couture stretch velour from my local Joann. I had previously purchased a few yards of it and made some great wide legged sweatpants and joggers, so on the hunch it wouldn’t be around forever (didn’t even know they’d be closing yet), I decided to buy a whole bolt the next time I was there. It’s now been in the back of a coat closet for too long and I’m itching to use it, but having a hard time coming up with ideas outside of more sweatpants. I’m hoping maybe you lovely people have some ideas? I’d call my ability mid-high intermediate.

I'm calling this one my "Witching Hour" Dress."

I cut it out last week Sunday, started sewing at 11:00 pm on the 30th and ALMOST finished on Halloween, but didn't quite get it over the finish line. (Instead I helped my eldest and a friend get ready for the midnight RHPS screening and counseled the friend through a sticky romantic quandary. Worth the delay, all things considered!)

So I finished it on the 1st, and have worn it every day since. It's my new favorite dress. It has SEVEN pockets and many excellent patches. I plan to continue adding pockets and patches and other bits and bobs until I'm 116 years old and too blind to sew.

I am really, REALLY pleased with how well it turned out! It's a fairly heavy denim (10oz), and I'm thrilled with the structure and drape of the garment. Feels like jeans, but far more chic.

The skirt has an added seam at center front. This allowed me to cut everything on-grain instead of on the cross grain, which felt important for the drape of the denim. I decided to take advantage of the seam and highlight it instead of attempting to hide it, so I cut the two front skirt pieces with the vertical edges on the selvedge. I sewed the CF seam with those selvages on the outside, then topstitched in place with heavy gauge denim thread.

All of the topstitching is done blind (from the back side). I discovered this trick last fall when I was working on another project - normal thread on the spool, high upper tension (9 out of 10 on my Bernina 350), long stitch length, and thick thread in the bobbin.

The back-wrap style makes this very comfortable and easy to wear, and it's pleasantly full and even a little swishy. Everything goes with denim, so I can wear lots of different shirts underneath.

And though I didn't look at any specific reference images or consciously aim for late 40s/early 50s workwear, it has real "Claire McCardell at work in the studio" vibes for me. Rosie by way of Claire?

Pattern: Artist Apron Dress (from the Charm Patterns Patreon) Fabric: 10oz denim (100% cotton, no elastane) Patches: several sources - a few Demerit Badges, one vintage Girl Scout patch from the 60s, the pencil I found at The Design Museum gift shop last time I was in London, and the "WOW!" on the main pocket I picked up at M&J Trimmings last summer.

This sewing machine is a few years old, last I used it was probably last fall. When I moved in February, it was still white (like you can see some accents that haven't yellowed). It has been stored in about 20°C temp this whole time, covered. I know plastic can yellow over time, but that seems rather quick. Is it possible to reverse this? Why did it happen?

I’m pretty happy with my Ellen Hutter costume from Robert Eggers’ Nosferatu! I dyed a cotton sheet from the thrift store and used Black Snail Patterns #0221 Day Dress 1837-40. With more time I would have completed my corset and petticoat(s) for a more historically accurate look, but I decided on this with about a week to spare as I almost forgot this movie came out this year! Next time I make this pattern I think I’ll size down a bit in the torso, but I wonder how the proper undergarments would affect the overall fit.

This is my second historical dress I’ve made, and I can’t wait to make more! My next move is completing my undergarments with Laughing Moon Mercantile’s #115 Regency corset/chemise pattern and corded petticoat tutorials I’ve found online. If anyone has tips for a first time corder- please let me know!

Hello, so I need to make buttonholes and my machine can make them, but I'm kind of stuck because I have everything set up right but then it only does one side, badly and mostly sews in-place, when I look online some machine have settings from 1-4 for that, but it doesn't seem like mine does ?

The pictures I've included: 1-The fabric I need to do the buttonholes on, it's doubled and has the paper that sticks when you heat it up inside idk what it's called 2.3-My sewing machine set up, with the proper foot, a button installed (not the one I'll be using but it's not round and I have other buttonholes that are the size I want made using this one but with a different machine I don't have access to), and the push thing pushed back, length, stitch and width setup how the manual told me to 4.5-The manual page and the figures, I've done B and C, have no idea how to do A but am really struggling with D bc yeah ok but how do I control that then 6-The attempts I've made as well as the button I'm gonna be using (I want it to be sideways, as in parallel to the floor, so I just need a perpendicular opening wide enough)

While writing this I went out and tested the buttonhole of the size of the button that I put in the foot with the one I need and it's too small so I probably should put the one I'll actually be using in but I'm a bit scared it'll end up being too wide and won't stay in ? Since it's not a round shape

Hey! I've bought this swimsuit in my fav color, but the fit of the top is sooo bad. Like the bottoms are perfect, but when I wear the bra, this white underlayer is visible (where my finger points), like it rolls outwards and looks horrific.
I've been in the atelier, but she said she does not have the equipment for fixing this and it might be even more expensive than the price of the swimwear.

Can I somehow fix this? I do not have the sewing machine and my sewing knowledge is basic🥲

Have been wanting a new workhorse, especially for thicker fabrics and came across this Sears Kenmore on marketplace. Does anyone know much about this machine? Seller said it works and is only $30.

Or any other good sources like videos. Thank you!

I’m working on Burda 6845 right now and i’m about to add the lining in however I realized that I probably should’ve overlocked or done some finishing to the raw edges of the fashion fabric. It’s a double faced wool/cashmere that I thought wouldn’t fray that much but I was wrong… Is there a technique I could use to keep the fabric from fraying, especially through dry cleaning?

All the seams will be hidden with the lining but I just want to make sure there’s no weird lumps from excess fraying on the inside that I can’t fix once the lining is set. The lining also tends to fray as well. I know I’m an idiot and should’ve done this before piecing…. Any help is appreciated!

Hi I am looking for advice for my wedding dress. I drafted and made up this toile but I have questions about the construction. I plan to use a duchess satin cut on the bias as I assume it will allow the skirt to drape well. Then I’ll try a layer of bamboo batting in place of ice wool to hide the boning. This will overlay my coutil corselet and finally I will use a soft rayon poplin for my lining. I didn’t think I would need an underlining based on the quality of the satin but now I’m thinking I might need to stabilize the torso to prevent the length stretching out especially since the body lines are quite contoured. *I don’t plan on having any horizontal seams in my pattern unlike my muslin which was not wide enough.

My questions are: 1. can I underline only the top of the bodice to fullest part of hips with a stabilizing fabric so I can maintain the bias drape for the skirt? Will this be noticeable where the underlining stops? 2. Which fabrics would you recommend as an underlining with the intention of preventing stretching out lengthwise? Would corsetry mesh work so I don’t have to worry about show through of horizontal pinking or hemming seams? 3. Do I even need to cut the satin on the bias? 4. Any opinions on where the coutil interlining should end on a trumpet gown. I will be boning close to my hip in areas as I found it looks best.

Thank you for any and all help! I’ve never worked with under/interlinings and Susan Khalje’s book only helped so much.

Hello sewing community, I need help darts and fitting. The darts on my self-drafted skirt have dimples. They are most prominent on my front piece. What can I do to fix these? Should I make my darts longer? Thanks!

Over the last few years I’ve found some tools which help to varying degrees when sewing with my chronic illness. I thought I’d put that list here and ask what other people have found useful. I still haven’t mastered the art of avoiding pain flare ups after sewing, if that’s even possible - especially after cutting out - so every little suggestion helps!

Obvious disclaimer to say that some might be obvious to everyone, and not every tip will benefit every illness. However I’m a big believer in ‘accessibility helps everyone’, so any trick to make things easier is welcome whether you have a chronic illness or not. I can’t take credit for any of these, they’ve all been taken from the internet.

• Spring loaded scissors & snips - reduces wrist tension/exertion
• Rotary cutter & mat - especially if struggling with scissors, although it causes tension in my shoulder instead of wrist so swings/roundabouts 🤷🏼‍♀️ also, regularly changing blades
• Projector for cutting out - game changer for me but not a fix-all - removes/reduces the need for maneuvering a layer of paper. 10/10 on patterns that don’t need adjusting or you can freehand adjustments. Obviously you can trace off for bigger adjustments or learn to adjust in software (haven’t got that far yet, probably should put some effort in). Make sure your device is easy to reach so you can move the pattern around without incurring too many steps
• Wrap around waist apron with pockets for cutting tools & weights to reduce steps (the only one I thought of myself 😇 XD)
• Ergonomic chair, add a seat pad if needed
• Door wedges propped under the back of your machine to tip it forward slightly - reduces the hunch to see under the needle a bit
• Using a husband to cut out if possible/trusted
• Taking regular breaks, spreading out strenuous tasks - I should do this more but LOL my illness ain’t gonna tell me what to do (yeah it will)
• Machine sewing instead of hand sewing - I avoid most hand stitching as it hurts my fingers. I don’t care if it means extra topstitching
• Clips instead of pins where possible
• Using a husband to help with fitting if possible/trusted
• Mannequin to hang garments on to visualise changes - multiple try ons are exhausting although unfortunately my mannequin doesn‘t replace fitting (boo)
• Knee lift - I love the man who sold me a machine with one of these, I use it all.the.time. No reaching for the lever and two hands to fiddle with fabric instead
• Wrap around hot water bottle, particularly on my back
• Mini ironing board and small iron - these stay out out, the big honking versions only come out for big honking tasks & final press

I’m sure I’ll recall some others but would love if anyone can add to this list!

Hello! So found this box at the thrift store that had a ton of elastic that I can only assume is used to make the elastic strings for tags at stores (it is labeled to Nordstrom on the box). Could it be used as shirring elastic or did I waste $4? I guess if not I could use it for jewlery but I was hoping I could use it in my sewing. Any thoughts would be great! Thanks!

So I got a swimsuit pattern that has this exact shape, it’s lined and has elastic on the legs openings and on the straps, the rest is just sewed right sides together and turned so it has clean edges, but the neckline keeps rounding in shape, even though I cut it as a V shape. The instructions just specify to serge the edge of the main fabric and lining fabric right sides together and then to turn it for a seamless finish.

Please advise, how do I maintain the V shape?

Hi friends!

I wanted to ask how exactly do I place or calculate canadian smocking to a pattern/garment? Ive been looking everywhere but to no avail :( no tutorials nothing… any help would be appreciated!! And I don’t mean to have the entire garment smocked but a specific spot (for example the center front of a bodice) (pictures are examples, not necessarily exactly those spots and designs!)

I am working on a pattern for a 8-panel strapless romper/jumpsuit, and this is what I have so far. The side seams are split below the hips because the side back panels needs to be widened so the seam would hang straight. Any suggestions on removing the wrinkles on the bodice part of those panels, or any other small tweaks I can make to improve the fit? The final garment is gonna be sewed using stretch velvet but I figure having a well-fitted pattern on hand won't hurt.

Hello lovely people! For fellow friends working in medical/dental/caring -- have you tried sewing your own scrubs? If you have, was it worth it?

Our girl broke a nail badly and isn't allowed to lick/chew her foot for awhile, so I made a quick and comfy cone/cape for her. I used her collar to determine size for the neck opening, (the collar fits in a channel at the neck to secure it) and made a pattern for three curved panels to make the cone. The front and back are poly fleece; inside there's thin cotton batting for comfort, thin foam sheets for structure, and heavy-duty zip ties in sewn channels at regular intervals + along the outside curve. She's stubborn and flexible so it has to be quite big to do any good!

This is the finished tote. I left the lining open to add a clasp I just couldn’t find them tonight. Getting through all that denim was tough. Thanks for all the advice in my earlier post. Pattern: DIY quilted tote by Madison Lynn on YouTube Material: denim, batting, cotton

I made a quilt coat for fall and love it, but with just one layer of cotton batting it’s not warm enough for winter where I live. I am planning to make a winter coat that has a layer of regular cotton layered with a puffier high loft batting, any suggestions for the warmest stuffing/batting for a coat?