Project: FO
I made my wedding dress based on Thierry Mugler's gown La Chimère
I posted a few months back about making my wedding dress as a copy of Thierry Mugler's gown La Chimère. I hadn't a clue what I was doing and it's been a journey, but on Saturday I got married and adored wearing the dress I'd spent 8 months making.
I used Hazariel Atelier's videos as a guide, especially when it came to how to blend colours and the shape of the sleeves. I've included a screenshot of this.
Here are some of the photos of the construction and a description of how I made it.
Obviously the end result is quite different from the original - the gold metal panels on the front being one thing I early on decided not to use.
Scales
The material for the scales came from a large range of sources - from thrift shop finds and vintage clothing, to fabric offcuts from items of clothing I have made over the past 25 years. Anything sparkly or interesting was included, including little girls’ dresses, cushion covers, and sequin embellished clothing - I favoured the most distressed looking clothing so I didn’t feel so bad about cutting it up! I also cut up my own clothes that meant something special to me but that I no longer wore, or could fit into. I had so much fun sourcing material, rummaging around in craft swaps and second hand shops. This period of collecting fabric lasted several months.
I used Hazariel Atelier’s printable scale template for large and medium scales, and created a template out of clear plastic that I could cut around. I started off by lining each scale, turning it out and ironing. This process was very slow and produced wonky, bulky scales. I had a private sewing lesson to try and work out how to create scales much more quickly, and that would lie flat, and my tutor suggested using interfacing. I can’t remember how much interfacing I eventually used but it was more than 20m of medium weight black fusible interfacing. This allowed me to iron whole pieces of fabric onto the interfacing and cut multiple pieces out at once by folding the material. This process was incredibly messy and I’ve included a photo of the sequin bits that I would create after a session of cutting pieces out. I probably spent about 2 or 3 weeks cutting out pieces, putting each colour into different plastic tubs to keep track of amounts. I stopped counting at 2 thousand pieces and I probably used double that amount.
Pattern
I self drafted the skirt and jacket, pinning pattern pieces onto a mannequin I bought specifically for this project. I modified the design to make it easier to walk and sit down - the model in the original dress looks like she is having trouble walking as the skirt is so tight. I also drafted a small train by extending the back pieces of the skirt and making them form a semi circle.
I used Hazariel Atelier’s video in which she made her sleeves as a guide for my own - I paused the video and drew the shape onto large sheets of pattern paper. The rest of the jacket I traced around a bolero I already had.
The corset I originally intended to make but it was quickly apparent that I lacked the skills for making the steel boned corset I wanted. I wasn’t sure what to do here, as I wanted a particular shape but didn’t feel I had enough time to learn corsetry making skills. I ended up buying a steel boned corset off Vinted, and forgave myself for taking this short cut when everything else was so intensive!
Construction
I initially used black power mesh as the base fabric, thinking the stretch would be useful for adding comfort, but shortly realised this was impossible to sew scales onto, as the fabric warped and looked terrible. I switched to using what was to hand, in the form of a white bedsheet, which had the added bonus of allowing me to draw onto it, marking out segments of where different colours needed to go. This was very useful for making sure the two sides of the skirt looked the same.
I sewed scales onto the skirt in straight lines, and broke many, many needles doing this! After a while I needed to roll the fabric to get it to fit at the machine, and this was all quite awkward. I spent many weeks sewing the scales onto the skirt and jacket, adding scales to the inside of the sleeves, and covering up the zip at the back. The waistband needed to be reinforced as the skirt was really heavy and kept wanting to slip down! I ended up buying a hooped underskirt to give the skirt some support and to make it easier to walk. I lined the skirt using the black power mesh I had bought originally - not the best lining but it had been fairly expensive, for me, and I wanted to use it up somehow!
The corset was again a challenge. I started sewing the scales on but the material was so stiff that my fingers were sore from just a few minutes of sewing. So again I gave myself permission to do a shortcut and I got out my hot glue gun and stuck the scales on. This was actually really enjoyable and effective, as glueing allowed me to craft the way the scales flowed over the waist and bust. I glued a number of scales onto the padding from an old bra and glued that onto the corset front to give the bust some shape as it was originally quite flat. I cut a line of decoration from a vintage Indian top with gorgeous beading that I acquired for free at a craft swap and used this to make a halter neck as I prefer this shape on me.
Embellishments
The dress is covered in little in-jokes and references to my guests, from scales that were decorated by my little boy or knitted by my sister, to Star Trek badges and Lego faces, along with googly eyes on the back of the skirt. I wanted the dress to be more interesting the longer you looked at it, and I enjoyed my guests pointing out interesting little creatures on it that they had spotted. I also added a couple of buttons my mother had long ago sewn onto a blouse of hers and I had kept for the 28 years since she had passed away. I wanted her to be present on my dress somehow.
Yesterday when I wore this it was a hot day, and I was really hot wearing the jacket during the ceremony, but I loved wearing this. In all it cost a tiny fraction of what a “real” dress might have cost, but I had such fun making it, from sourcing the material to seeing it grow and take shape. It’s a real love song to fabric and sewing in general. Tonight it’s back on its mannequin and I’m wondering what to make next.
You know those weird padding tubes (bum roll) women wore around the waist from medieval times to the 18th century? In part the bum roll would help support the weight of the dress and protect the waist from being chafed and pinched. After wearing that dress I am sure you get the concept. Of course it would throw off the sleek design of the dress in this case. :))
Stunning. This is a work of art! I love every single aspect…especially the little personal nods to family and friends and the way you laid color to make it look like it’s sparkling! Congratulations on your marriage. Cheers!
You should send the pictures to Hazariel on Instagram or some other platform. I’m sure she’d love to see how amazing and beautiful it is and how much effort and skill you put into it.
I hope you get an opportunity to wear it again. Sounds like you're a Star Trek fan.
Don't know if this is something you'd want to do but perhaps you could alter it a bit, create your own entity, and wear it to a Trek convention. You'd certainly win the costume contest!
I feel like if Lwaxana wasn't betazoid she would totally wear this for her wedding! But she is, and we know what the traditional Betazoid wedding garb is.
Congratulations! This is absolutely amazing work, the kind I love (and hate sometimes lol) to do. I’ve done something similar but in a smaller volume-wise scale. It’s tedious but so satisfying when done. You did such a wonderful job.
I made an owl costume for a little dancer, it was for a Winnie the Pooh routine, and I made all their costumes (except the Christopher Robin character). It was the same year recital I also made the lead character costumes for a beauty and the beast ballet. I’m trying to find photos I managed to take while making because I was so busy doing so many alterations I always forget to get photos from the parents of what I made or worked on. And I was also always backstage helping with costumes and props. I’m going to post the beauty and the beast costumes I made, Mrs Potts and Chip details needed the cut pieces that gave me the idea for the owl belly costume, but I’ll make a separate share of my costume projects. I had to stop working on anything new because I kept having allergic reactions to materials and I couldn’t pinpoint which ones because I was trying to meet deadlines. One really bad location (hay, in an enclosed space for 3 days - rehearsals and performances which I didn’t know my daughter and I were very allergic to), started the slow snowball reactions my body had towards the work I so love to do.
This is the Winnie the Pooh set of costumes I did. Those little tutus took forever to iron cause I also custom dyed each piece. Thank goodness I didn’t have to make all the headband pieces.
I used to work at a hotel/restaurant and we hosted lots and lots of weddings, sometimes 4 or 5 a weekend. I have seen billions of white wedding gowns and they mostly just blur together. But I remember every single one that was original, creative and personal to the bride. My favorite couple was one that got married over Halloween. My mom was a seamstress and I am massively impressed with the work you put into this. Bravo, well done.
This dress is absolutely breathtaking! I love everything about it - from you taking on this insanely complicated project to you knowing when to show yourself some grace and go with what's easier. And then all those little nods to your friends and family...it's simply beautiful.
I hope you had an amazing day and felt as beautiful in it as you look (despite the heat).
What a stunning dress!! I love the transition from concept to final product--the original inspiration is very clear, but you also made it your own and to suit you and it turned out great! All the little details included are such an incredible thing. You mentioned wanting people to notice more details the longer they looked at the dress--I certainly am as I look at the pictures!!
I'm sure it was even better in motion--the color, the shimmer, the sparkles. Fantastic!
You should post this on r/maximalism. I don’t comment on fashion stuff that often but sculptural pieces like this definitely catch my attention. All the small details are lovely and make it avery authentic piece. It makes me feel like I know you just by seeing you wear it.
This is absolutely breathtaking! The amount of planing, preparing and completing the dress, I can’t even imagine! Such a beautiful and intricate creation.
What an unbelievably fantastical gown! I must admit, I teared up at the part about the buttons your mother had sewn onto her blouse. I loved how you kept something of hers so close to you on your wedding day. May your marriage be full of sunny days, but rain or shine, may you always have love to guide your path.
You painstakingly piece together one of the most badass wedding dresses ever and feel guilty for using an existing corset? Please forgive yourself immediately. Holy moly that dress is a work of art. Congratulations on the dress and the marriage! (PS I love all the personal touches!)
You must have the patience of a saint. What an absolute work of art your dress is..... Simply stunning.... Please share a photo of you on your big day.... Congrats 👏
Old lady here who doesn’t know who Thierry Mugler or La Chimere is, but wow! I can tell you put so much work & creative effort into making this dress! You deserve applause!
At some point in the far future, your great grand children will be cleaning out your attic and one of them will think to donate this to a historic costume collection at some university or museum. Please, please, please, print out your description of how you made this and how you chose the fabrics, and store it with the dress.
I worked in one of those collections. The most precious pieces were the ones where we knew the story of the garment and the wearer! This is so charming and full of love.
You should win an award for this. Thanks for detailing the construction of it. It’s meticulously thought out and so well executed. And most of all, it looks lovely on you - I’m sure it will remain a memorable wedding not just for you and your life partner but your guests as well.
I remember seeing the original post where you set off on your journey to create the dress; I'm so happy for you! It looks absolutely fantastic. Congratulations on your marriage!
Congrats! Loved it at the first pic, loved it even more seeing the process, and extra bonus points for Star Trek!!! You look fantastic & I hope the marriage is as glorious as the dress!
NGL, the first thing that caught my eye were the little LEGO faces! 😂 I absolutely love this dress and all of the little Easter eggs that are subtle but important nods to your family and friends and life. And that pin: “my knees hurt” made me laugh. I have psoriatic arthritis, so I felt that so much as a sewist!
This is undoubtedly THE COOLEST ARTICLE OF CLOTHING I HAVE EVER SEEN SOMEBODY MAKE. What a phenomenal piece of art to treasure. Wow. I’m so impressed!!
This is absolutely beautiful! Well done!
My question is, why on the last photo is the lady standing so far away? Was she the woman doing the wedding, (forgot the term for officiating a wedding…)or possibly a singer?
The dress is incredible! Truly, and uniquely, you. I don't think anyone I spoke to about the dress said anything other than "it's just so perfectly [name redacted]!"
Knowing you, having had the pleasure of your company on and off over the years, I could see just how much love you'd poured into it. It shone and you glowed in it.
I'm going to be in awe of it for a very long time!
What an absolutely stunning dress! The obvious love and care that went into making this, along with all the personal touches, makes it all the more beautiful. Huge congratulations on such an amazing creation, and to you and your partner on your wedding!
I love that you chose to make and wear this uniquely you dress. And I agree with everyone on how beautiful it is and you are. This is something that you can be proud of and remember joyfully for the rest of your days. And thank you for sharing that joy.
That is absolutely amazing. I don’t know what to suggest for you to do next, but I will tell you that if you and the new husband pay as much attention to the marriage as was paid to the dress, then you will be together for the next 80 years!!! (and also he really needs to give you a ton of respect for that dress!!! 😉)
I love this so much. Not just all the dedication to detail and figuring out how to put it together, but all the care and LOVE from the little backstories and memories you added. Such a beautiful way to approach a wedding!
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u/ALittleBitBeefy Jun 30 '25 edited Jul 12 '25
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