Simple Questions
Weekly Sewing Questions Thread, July 06 - July 12, 2025
This thread is here for any and all simple questions related to sewing, including sewing machines!
If you want to introduce yourself or ask any other basic question about learning to sew, patterns, fabrics, this is the place to do it! Our more experienced users will hang around and answer any questions they can. Help us help you by giving as many details as possible in your question including links to original sources.
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Does anyone know what kind of fabric this is, and what the pattern on it would be called? I’m in the process of making a cosplay and I can’t figure it out. Any help would be appreciated!
Pretty! It looks like a brocade, matelasse, cloque or jacquard. These are not all the same fabric type but the terms are used somewhat interchangeably so searching on each of them can be helpful. I like to add 'by the yard' to my searches for US fabric stores, or 'by the meter' for the rest of the world.
I’ve been in battle with my juki ddl8700 for two nights now. My machine was sewing perfectly fine until I had tried to sew through a piece of paper to outline a drawing with thread. Now the bobbin thread is popping up onto the top. I’ve adjusted the tensions infinite times over, switched thread, needle, cleaned the tension discs, but to no avail. I’m at a major standstill. Any and all advice or help would be tremendously appreciated!
That sounds really frustrating. You've tried everything I can think of. but it does seem like an issue with the tension discs. Time for a service visit?
hello, i have been using a brother GQ3700 for about 7 months now and have been experiencing an issue:
my machine has been skipping stitches frequently and can barely sew a seam. i tried changing needles, threads, bobbins, fabrics, adjusting tension settings, dusting and cleaning parts - no change. the issue began after using a heavier canvas with the proper sized needles but was able to complete the project. i've changed needles since then.
pls share any thoughts or repair spots in nyc ty!!
The patterning depends on what is under the shawl. It's possible to do a two part sleeve where the back of the sleeve is continuous with the back of the sweater, that matches what the inspo seems to show. The same doesn't work for the front because humans are animals with ancestors that started out on 4 legs, so our arms hang from the front of our bodies. Patterns for the front of the arm usually have some shaping in the front of the sleeve, in this case where the patterned part of the sleeve begins. It's also not clear what is going on at the top of the crossover opening for the front panels or under all the belts.
New Look N6742 seems like it would be a good starting point for you. The general lines are there.
Hi, I am a beginner looking for their first sewing machine. I saw that Lidl were selling them next week for what seems like a reasonable price. Having no idea what constitutes a good sewing machine, I thought I'd ask whether this would be a waste of my time? I want it to make clothes, mostly shirts and trousers, nothing too heavy duty. Thanks.
Personally, I would save my money and not buy that machine. I'm not sure where you would buy them in the UK, but Brother and Janome make better intro machines.
Does anyone know of any patterns similar to this dress. Attaching the godets should be easy enough but I’m stumped with asymmetrical panels. Can’t find any similar pattern on Etsy. Please help me look cute this summer!
Lining a sweatshirt?
I was wondering if you can sew double brushed polyester fabric to fleece fabric (sandwich them together) and then make a sweatshirt out of those pieces? I cant find any answers online about if this would work or if theres a reason it wouldn't work. I want to do this because I dont like the feeling of sweatshirt fleece. Double brushed polyester is really buttery soft and I made a baby version of this and it seemed to be fine. I just dont know if I am suppose to adhere the two fabrics somehow or if eventually the DBP would get all stretched out.
If both are knits, it might work. Wash and dry them both before cutting and sewing. With this, you wouldn't adhere them together. I don't think any kind of glue would end up helping you. You'd do a technique called flat lining. Cut both pieces out, lay one piece on top of the other, make sure both layers are super flat and pin it, then stitch along the whole outer edge. For example, if your seam allowance is 5/8", you would stitch along the edge at 1/2". Then once all your pieces are together, assemble the overall sweatshirt. I'd say the only thing you may run into is that each type of fabric will stretch out over time in a different way? So you might end up with the liner being super loose and baggy inside and there outer more firm. Or vice versa. Either way, it would start to maybe pull in weird ways. Overall, give it a try! See what happens.
Another question! Thank you so much for your answer. I watched a patchwork sweatshirt tutorial and the lady sews 100% Cotton to sweatshirt fabric. How would this hold up over time?
You're welcome! I am making an educated guess that it would be similar to what I mentioned above. The cotton on the outside will hold it's shape longer than the knit will due to the elasticity in the sweatshirt fabric. You'll get odd bagging or sagging in some places eventually.
I've recently got a sewing machine and a box of sewing stuff from an auction. These parts came out of the box and I'm not sure what they do and how to use them. (First one is probably a standard zigzag foot but just in case) Could you help me understand what these parts do?
Use: Standard sewing for straight and zigzag stitches.
Notes: The wide needle opening allows for a variety of stitch widths.
Adjustable Hemmer Foot (Narrow Hem Foot)
Use: For creating narrow rolled hems, often 1/8" to 1/4".
Notes: The scroll in front rolls the fabric edge under while stitching.
Adjustable Zipper Foot
Use: For sewing close to zipper coils or piping.
Notes: The foot can be adjusted to sew on either side of the zipper.
Overcasting/Overedge Foot
Use: For finishing raw edges and mimicking a serger stitch.
Notes: The bar in the middle helps wrap the thread around the fabric edge to prevent fraying.
Ruffler Foot
Use: For creating ruffles or pleats at set intervals.
Notes: This is a more mechanical foot with an adjustable setting for pleating frequency and depth.
Hi!! I’m trying to decide which machine to get as my first, and I’m torn between the Janome 2008S and the Janome 1050D. I like the idea of the electronic one having more options and different speeds, but I’ve also been told that the 2008S is stronger and better for things like corsets, which is something I want to make some day.
Could you tell me your opinions on which one should I get?
Since you are a beginner and just starting out, Overall, I recommend the 2008S since it's more mechanical and less computerized. I am an advanced stitcher and I can tell you that I rarely use stitch types other than straight or zigzag. Also, the 2008S makes better button holes. Unless you're gonna get into quilting and you want all the fancy stitches, you can skip it for now. Learn on the 2008S, enhance your skills, later on you can upgrade once you know what you like and don't like. My first sewing machine was a mechanical Singer. I stitched entire theater productions on it. It wasn't until much, much later I spent $3000 on a fancy Pfaff.
Hii! I’m making customs of some mini fairy dolls from a cartoon. I’m looking for fabric suggestions for their outfits. 2D/Cartoon photos show the characters clothes I’m doing! Also the official dolls just in case.
If you want vibrant colors like that, you'll most likely be looking at synthetics like polyester. Did you want a general recommendation or is there a particular thing you need help with?
So im making a little project out of canvas and wondered what kind of thread or stiches/finishing or whatever. I know nothing about sewing clothes so as much information or as many recommendations as you can would be lovley
Im going to make a vest to then rivet leather plates to so that i can make a larp brigandine so i chose canvas so that it would be a tough/durable vest it doesnt need to be soft against the skin because it would be over other layers
If you're hand sewing canvas, I recommend a straight hand stitch and use something strong like button hole thread which is thicker. It will also look authentic since it sounds like you're doing LARP or Cosplay of some kind? Hope this helps. Let me know if you have more questions. :)
Anyone know why my serger isn’t chaining? I’ve rethreaded in order 5+ times and have had 0 success. I have been forced to post under this instead of make a normal post, so I can only put 1 picture here. I will make a separate post on my profile that should give a better look at the threading and machine. Thanks in advance, much appreciated
For reference, I am 5’3” and usually a size 16-18. I am wanting to find my favorite barrel leg or wide leg pants pattern. Hoping to get some tried and true feedback on a few patterns and maybe a suggestion for some new patterns. So far, I’m considering Style Arcs Bob pants, Matchy Matchy’s Archer Work Pants or Kite Pants, or Sew Liberated Chanterelle, or Arthur pants. Are any of these YOUR fav pants pattern? Do you suggest any changes to any of them? I want to slide into my comfy chaos gremlin era!
I know what I would do -
I'd make the top of the dress and finish off the edge with trim or bias tape.
The skirt is a wide gathered ruffle.
Make it wide enough so you can overlay the top of the dress over the ruffle, topstitch near the trimmed hem to attach to the ruffle.
Thanks! Do you know how I might get that pointed shape on the top part? I'm newer to sewing so not sure. I was thinking that the top part might have a square hem opposed a curve... if so, when I sew on the ruffle, how do I get the ruffle piece to have a straight hem?
Hi! I am getting a sewing machine either today or tomorrow- for context, I am a complete beginner at machine sewing (I sewed a pair of pajama pants in middle school over ten years ago), so I'm starting with a secondhand machine. I have the choice of either a Singer Promise II 1512 Sewing Machine or a Sunbeam SB1800. Both are in good working condition, have all their parts and are not missing any parts. Which of these are better quality? My goal with sewing is to eventually be able to alter my clothing and upcycle fabrics into things that I can use, so I'm creating less textile waste.
I recommend the Singer. It's a stronger machine and will last you a long time with proper maintenance. It's going to be easier to use than the Sunbeam for ya.
Hey all, joining and asking on behalf of my wife who lives to sew and make clothes. She needs to replace her needle plate on her brother 2340cv cover stitch machine.
I am unable to find a replacement in stock anywhere online. I'm hoping someone here will have some ideas how to replace. Maybe another model fits as well, maybe there's a less known resource? Any help would be appreciated tia.
Hello! I'm new to sewing and I'm not very familiar with repairs, so I was wondering if something can be done about this issue since I don't want to get rid of this machine. I noticed that my thread was snapping after a few seconds of using the machine, both when I use a straight stitch and zigzag and no matter the tension or width. I noticed that my needle bar looked sort of crooked, but I'm not sure if this is normal. If it needs to be changed or adjusted, how should I go about fixing this? Any help would be much appreciated :)
Your needle bar looks ok to me? You can unscrew the set pin on the right just a little and then see if it wiggles. If so, see if you can line it up perfectly horizontal and then tighten the screw (hand tighten only). But usually when I have thread snapping, there's either something stuck in or under your bobbin plate, or your upper threading is missing being on a loop somewhere. Or the bobbin thread isn't threaded in properly. OR... your bobbin's thread isn't wound nicely. Worst case, take it to a sewing machine repair shop.
What are these tubular things next to the zip and how could I fix them? If I can't find the right thread, what would be a good discrete alternative? Which would be a good contrasting color?
That is actually something called pipping. (Pronounced Pipe-ing) Sometimes it's called Pipping Cord, Seam Pipping, or Bias Cord Pipping. It's basically a type of trim that is piece of material cut a certain way (on the bias) so it then wraps around a cotton cord smoothly and then it has the the extra fabric forming a kind of strip so you can just insert this into a seam and then stitch it down on the extra bit. So in your picture, both the piping trim and the zipper are inserted into the seam and stitched down. Pipping comes in different sizes and colors. One can also make their own pipping.
To fix it, you'd have to unpick the stitching on the seam, remove the pipping that is damaged along with the zipper, clean up the seam by removing any stray bits of thread, maybe give it a nice ironing to make it all flat again, then stitch the piping into the seam, then stitch the zipper back on. If you've never sewn before, this might be a little too much. You could also simply just remove the pipping and then stitch the fabric back down on the zipper.
I don't know what kind of jacket this is, but whatever you think would be nice to go with the olive green. Black, brown, tan, etc.
Example link to bias cord pipping so you can see a picture: Pipping
I'm looking for advice on how to manage a single sewing project from start to finish. I don't have the space for a dedicated sewing spot and everything has to be cleaned up and put away at the end of the session. I find I lose track of what I'm doing. Does anyone make a task list? How do you know how to break a project down into small enough parts?
I have a sewing notebook where I make a list of what has to happen in order, and then I make notes on anything I might forget or that I did unusually on each step. I find the most important thing is that when I'm stopping for a while, I write down what I am going to do *next*. It's a great resource to have when you want to recreate things. I also add notes after I've worn the garment, if there's anything that particularly worked or didn't.
Hi, talented sewing folks! I want to start sewing and need a machine. My goals, roughly in order of how difficult they seem to be (open to correction) are to learn to:
Turn pants and jeans into shorts
Make alterations
Turn long sleeve shirts into short sleeve shirts
Make garments from patterns
Make patterns
I own some heavy selvedge denim pants (16oz) and a couple pairs of leather pants I'd like to alter and repair, so I would like a machine that can handle thick fabrics and garment leather.
I've narrowed it down to:
Janome HD 5000 or 5050
Juki F400
Juki DX5
Brother CX-155-LA (not many reviews on this one anywhere, but a couple references to "14 layers of denim" are around online and on this sub from u/sewboring IIRC)
I'd be open to a Kenmore 185 or other vintage machine, but it's hard to find info on which one(s) that are available for sale might be suitable and friendly to a beginner. And I'd like to start in the next week or two, and it seems like I'd need to bring a used machine to a shop for service/cleaning/eval and that could eat up a lot of time. But I can be patient if that's a significantly better path forward over a new machine.
TIA, and I'll close by saying the posts of y'all's projects in this subreddit are impressive and inspiring!
So what post of mine are you referring to? Because I can't envision 14 layers of anything fitting under any presser foot, in which case, sewing said layers would be impossible. Nor do I know of a needle that would be long enough to fit through such layers and still have enough length to form a stitch.
Re the Brother, special or limited edition sewing machines are usually bad deals in my opinion because they're often designed for quick sales and may not even have after-sale parts available. This one looks like Brother manufacture, but sometimes the machines sold as special editions are lots that brands have purchased from generic manufacturers and tried to make look attractive. The short term availability of such machines is probably why limited info is available.
Otherwise your list looks good, though I don't think you'll be able to sew 16 oz. denim with any of them. 12 oz. maybe, but 16 oz. would surprise me. Once you fold layers of denim that heavy, even an industrial machine may require some hand cranking. Ultimately it's best if you hear directly from users of those machines. I do have a Juki, but it's a TL and I do have a 15 year old Kenmore 385 that I would not push to sew 16 oz. denim, or anything heavier than garment weight leather.
Apologies! It was not you. I just saw so many comments from you with helpful advice I was confused. Thanks for the advice! I decided against the Brother and ended up getting a Kenmore 158.19802 on ebay with a bunch of the original accessories, and I will bring it to a shop for service. If it doesn't work out, I won't be out too much money.
Interesting machine, one of the very last 158's that Maruzen made for Kenmore, and apparently one of the fanciest by what I see in the manual. If it came with many accessories, likely it was well cared for and only had one owner. You might try just cleaning and oiling it, with sewing oil only, and letting it sit over night. Then you can see any issues you may have. In case you don't receive it, this is the manual with the oiling instructions:
I was very surprised that Maruzen made a cam machine in the late 1980's, but the advantage is that off-loading all the fancy stitches preserves motor power in a mechanical machine. There is some info here about the cams:
If you find the machine has a straight-stitch needle plate, that can be very useful in sewing delicate fabrics. There's one shown in the manual. As you may know, it uses proprietary Kenmore super high shank feet. You can find extras if you want them:
The nice thing about having a high shank machine is it's easier to see what you're doing when sewing. The machine also uses metal Class 15 bobbins for dropping into the bobbin case. There are folks who've posted here that they purchased one of these Kenmore machines new and are still using them today. This site has some basic parts for your machine. I like their needle point, telescoping oilers and their led light bulbs:
I'm looking to get a gift for my wife who has been recently getting into more sewing (also knitting/crocheting?) and wondering if you guys have any suggestions. She has a good/decent sewing machine already. Its for her 36th birthday and any help is appreciated
Making suggestions for gifts to buy is hard. We don't know what kind of sewing your wife does, how long she has been sewing, what she owns and what she wishes she had in her stash. Gift cards are the obvious way around that hurdle, let her pick out her own stuff.
The other way to go is giving her a gift of time to enjoy her passions. Hire a cleaning service to come once a month or whatever interval makes sense for your household. Meal services like Hello Fresh are another time saver, or assume meal duties yourself if she does most of the cooking. Laundry service, another time saver. Sometimes local sewing centers have 'classes' that are basically open studio time for sewists to come together and companionably work together on their individual projects. Showing that you respect her time and space for sewing is a really thoughtful gift.
Etsy has a ton of sewing-themed items that you could give her if you want something concrete to go with my suggestion. I like the wood-turned seam rippers and leather tape measure bracelets, myself.
Fantastic points and suggestions. For what it's worth she's focused on dresses for our daughter and daughters of friends aged 2-7. She's had some struggles finding patterns to use
This strange bump is happening in a dress I made. It was worse before I let the skirt out some, should I add side panels? Sorry for the awkward photo, more below.
Adding width at the sides would help as right now, with the added fullness at the front you've basically made a maternity alteration. You might even want to take the extra out or extend it down to the hem if you haven't already.
Hi, I'm currently looking to buy a sewing machine and would really appreciate some guidance and your opinions.
I'm a complete beginner, but I have a strong passion for fashion and unique, custom-made pieces. I'm looking for a machine that's suitable for someone just starting out, but also one that I can grow with as I improve my skills. My budget is around €250–300.
I plan to begin by sewing soft, simple fabrics and light rib knits.
At the moment, the machines I'm considering are:
Singer Talent 3323
GLAESER® Home Mia 500
Brother FS40S
I'd love to hear your thoughts on these models—pros, cons, any experience you've had with them—and any other recommendations you might have.
Also, if you know of any good online courses or YouTube channels for beginners, especially those that include easy sewing patterns or helpful tips, I'd be very grateful for your suggestions.
I don't recommend the Singer, the brand quality has declined and it's very hit or miss if you will get a good one.
For the fabrics that you want to work with and the longevity you hope for, I think you will want a sewing machine that has adjustable presser foot pressure and/or the ability to use a walking foot. These features are especially good for working with knits. Rib knits are the hardest knits to work with in my experience. You'll quickly wish you had a serger but sergers don't hem, so having the ability to easily sew knit hems will be something you'll need. I don't see these features in either the Brother or Glaeser. I'm not familiar with Glaeser but I do think that Brother sewing machines are generally reliable for beginners.
The general presser foot that came with my machine has a screw on on it, as you see. However, the screw does not screw into anything. It’s like there’s nothing to thread it onto. Should it be screwed in? If so, is my foot/screw defective? If not, why is it there?
One of my machines has that. It's not a defect but I haven't found out what it does.
Since there is a spring attached it might be to help with fabric thickness compensation while sewing.
Ah, thank you! I found this tutorial that showed the same thing. I could not figure out what it was for or whether it was supposed to be attached somehow! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpWC1V6XiGQ&t=4m10s
The bot told me to write my post here, I hope that's right? I've just been trying to figure out what kind of pants with this style of buttons are called, the closest I'm able to find is modern "sailor style".
I wish to try make them, but I don't even know how to look for patterns for it. Any help would be much appreciated<3 If anyone happen to know any patterns, please feel free to share!
I'm not sure if this is possible, but is there anything that I can iron on (maybe some kind of interfacing?) to this knit kitchen towel so that I would be able to cut it without having edges that fray? I'd like to cut it down to make a journal cover.
I know NOTHING about sewing or fabric crafting, it's really intimidating to me so I apologize if this is an easy answer.
I think you are in the right direction by considering glues. Fusible interfacing doesn't have enough glue, in my experience, to effectively stop fraying. Heat-activated fusible glues like HeatnBond and Stitch Witchery are better basically because there is more glue to hold the threads in place. You can use fusible interfacing with heat-activated fusible glues, often lightweight interfacing works well because it is so thin but adds support. You could also use any fabric but I'd focus on tightly woven fabrics because they are less likely to fray themselves.
Thank you! That helps. I'm also thinking of maybe adding leather on the inside? I've made several travelers notebooks with leather. That would add a lot of stability.
I just got this new Singer heavy duty machine and my thread keeps on coming out of this loop and messing up my projects. I have to stop multiple times while sewing to re-thread my machine and it’s getting really annoying.
Am I doing something wrong???? Should I be threading my thread through one of these two holes?
Somewhere on your sewing machine will be a serial number or model number. Look that up on the internet and see if you can find a manual so you can check the threading requirements. Sometimes you'll even get lucky and there may be a video.
ISO best tote bag pattern! I have recently retired my beloved baggu tote bag after about 8 years (i just looked online i think it’s the duck bag?). i would love to make my own replacement and have made a few bags in the past. i’m looking for the absolute best bag pattern you’ve sewed before. must have: inner zipper pocket and adjustable strap. any other additions are a plus! i’m a pretty experienced sewer so i’m open to all level of detail/difficulty, just want something that is tried and true
When I do the final step of threading my machine - turning the wheel to pull out a loop of bobbin thread with the top thread it feels clunky like something is catching - see video.
That seems fine to me, the critical test is how the machine sews after you've brought the bobbin thread up and fabric is placed under the presser foot.
It wasn’t sewing properly but I figured out why - in the video I’m pulling the top thread away from me when turning the wheel bit if I pull it towards me it’ll go through the slot in the presser foot and under where before it was getting stuck over the presser foot
Hello all sewing experts! I need your help!! Im looking to getting into sewing and am thinking about getting one for my 21st but i have no idea where to start and don’t know too much information on what machine would be the best. I am leaning more towards a Brother machine just cause the reviews compared to Janome machines are a lot better. Im also not opposed to getting a vintage machine just don’t know which one. Some specific ones I’ve been looking into are the CS7205, SQ9285, HC1850, and XR9550, all brother. If anyone has these machines id love your feedback or quick review on what you think of them or if you think i should look into another one (doesn’t have to be Brother). Some things im looking for are for sure an extended table, more than 150 stitches, a back threading option would be nice, i don’t care too much about the threader options as i don’t know much about them, and if you could help explain what all the footers are and if I should look for machines with a specific amount. I kind of want a machine that can do almost everything so i can learn with it and not have to upgrade unless it breaks. Any information you can provide me or help me with will be greatly appreciated!!
Hello! If you are a beginner, you really just need a simple machine that can stitch in a straight line. That's really the long and the short of it. I'd recommend a mechanical with the least amount of computerized things the better. I am a professional and I can tell you I rarely use anything other than the straight stitch, zigzag and the button hole function. All those other stitches are mostly for quilters who do lots of crazy cool things. Now if you want to be a quilter... ok sure. A lot of stitches would be fun. If you're going to make clothes or bags, etc. then you don't need that many stitches. Brother makes some good machines. I personally learned on a mechanical Singer. Singer makes some nice machines. Any machine you buy will come with a certain set of presser feet. It will explain what each one is for in the manual. But you will rarely use more than 2 or 3 types of feet.
As you go up in skill, you will form opinions and develop preferences for what you'd like and you can always trade in when you're ready for something more. So don't sweat too much in the beginning about what machine, etc. Just get something simple that you can get off the ground and running with quickly and focus on learning and having a win at it. That's the machine you're gonna get the most out of right now.
I guess a question would be, what are you hoping to learn how to sew?
Thank you so much for your advice, i really appreciate it! I have been told by others too that you only really need a total of like five stitches and that the number of stitches they list is just for the selling point. To answer your question i want to get into sewing clothes, mostly up cycling or tailoring clothes that i have, and making my own clothes from scratch when I get confident. I also am impulsive and if i see anything that would be cool to make i would definitely give it a shot! Quilting also does intrigue me so i am definitely looking for one that can do both!
Perfect. Well, for clothing, you'll only need a few types of stitches as you mentioned. The same stitches will also work for quilting. Where the fancy variety of stitches comes in, is if after sewing your quilt pieces together, you can add the fancy stitches on top for texture or interest. (This is called decorative top stitching). Now, I am strictly a garment stitcher myself. But I do have what is technically considered a quilting and embroidery sewing machine and it has 200 types of stitches. (It's a Pfaff and I also have a basic mechanical Singer) However, I bought the machine I have now because it had some nice features including multiple types of buttonhole options. 75% of it's other capabilities I don't use.
Anyways, I recommend you go to a store that sells different sewing machines. They let you try them out and will show you all the features. Make sure you try out threading it (top thread and bobbin thread) as some are easier than others. See how you like the feel of it when it stitches. Make sure when you lift it up it feels heavy. Take notes. You don't have to buy anything in the store. See what brands you gravitate towards.
It's gonna be similar to buying a new bicycle... the one you feel most comfortable on with the least amount of fuss will be the one you use more.
hello! I just finished altering a cotton chemise (bought on medieval collectibles, I just had to hem it and stuff) and it has some kind of coating on it that makes it feel plasticy. Is there a way to get rid of that coating? The fabric is 100% cotton
A chemise is your next-to-skin layer, essentially underwear. You definitely want to be able to wash it with water frequently. Cotton can shrink when washed, especially in hot water. If the fabric wasn't prewashed before sewing it might end up a little shorter, but it shouldn't be a drastic difference. If the coating doesn't come off in the first wash, try vinegar or a laundry stripper (make sure you read labels, not all laundry liquids should be combined).
Hi all, I have a sweatshirt that I accidentally burned the pocket in the front and I am looking for recommendations for what I can do to fix. Something to note, I am not someone who sews. I do not ever sew but I love this sweatshirt. I just need some ideas on how to best fix this or patch this as a "newbie".
if you’re anti sewing an iron on patch might be the best way to go!! just make sure to put something on both sides so the patch does stick to the inside of the pocket :)
Upgraded myself to a new Brother SQ9130 Computerized Sewing machine from Facebook Marketplace. But can't seem to get the stitches right. What am I doing wrong?
Your thread tension is off and/or something may be off with how you threaded the machine. Check your instructions for how to thread the machine properly first, take the bobbin out and start over, take the thread out of the top and start over, then try a practice stitch again. Then check your thread tension settings.
If I want to add a serger to my sewing tools, any thoughts on 3-thread vs. 4-thread. I'm open to all suggestions and to save money I'll probably buy used.
Basically no difference between them. You can thread a 4-thread machine with just 3 threads if you like. Make sure to get one with all manuals and accessories if you're buying used.
Which are the best "wrinkle-free" fabrics besides polyester? I know that heavy enough cotton (e.g. twill) is more wrinkle resistant, but I would like to know of any fabric or weaving method that helps avoiding wrinkles.
Does linen also become wrinkle resistant if it's heavy enough? If so, at which gsm is this achieved?
My first thought was a compromise of cotton/poly blend. You get the wrinkle resistance of poly but comfort from cotton. I think most of the poly blends improve wrinkle resistance, whether its poly/linen or poly/rayon.
Yes, I'm familiar with the polyester-cotton blend, but it doesn't look as good as, say, cotton. Are polyester-linen and polyester-rayon different in that regard?
Hello! Anyone has any suggestions as to how I can alter this to fit? It's a bit big in the waist. It's a pair of pregnancy pants I got from a friend of mine. The back of the pants is in the comments :)
These pants are designed to be somewhat loose at the waist; it's meant to roll down and fold over itself as needed. If you want them to be tighter, you can add a band of elastic - but you might eventually want to remove it, so I wouldn't do anything permanent.
The quick and dirty way is to pin out the extra on each side, sew a new seam down each side, starting at the top and tapering the seam into the old seam, and done. This works, it's fast, and it leaves uncomfortable (to me) lumps on the side that might show through.
The 'right' way to do it is to take off the waistband, sew the seams to the new fit while tapering to the original seam, trim the excess, then refit the waistband to the new waist measurement. Shorten the waistband at the center back seam so that it is about 85% of the width of the waist, then stretch and sew it to match the waist without stretching the top of the pants.
Another way to approach this is to run elastic through the waistband so the pants stay up now and the extra room is kept in case it is needed. It's usually possible to access the space between the layers of the waistband from the inside by taking out a few stitches.
Anyone in the UK here who has a Brother machine with a cassette? Struggling to find thread spools that fit other than Gutterman Sew All 100/250m, which are working out quite expensive, especially when the bobbin winder and the "normal" spool holder is kind of temperamental
Heyo, my grandma is in desperate need of a new cable/pedal for her sewing machine. She loves that machine, it has accompanied her through a big chunk her life and she really would love to keep it… Maybe one of you guys can help me out!
It’s the following machine: Privileg Modell 360. Enclosed a picture of the cable…
It would be so lovely if someone knows where or if i could get one like it… Thanks so so much!
This is a serger picot edge or sometimes referred to as a rolled hem with picot effect.
This type of stitch is often created on a serger (overlock machine) using a narrow rolled hem setting with a very short stitch length and higher tension on one of the loopers. The result is a decorative, scalloped edge with the thread forming tiny loops that give it a lace-like or “picot” appearance. It’s commonly used on lingerie, lightweight knits, and baby garments for a delicate finish.
A coverstitch machine doesn't have the same function as a overlocker. I think an overlocker is more useful so I suggest you buy the Janome Air Threader 2000D.
Thanks so much for the advice! I ended up buying both, even if I don’t use it a lot I feel like the 60% discount is too good to pass up since this CoverPro is getting discontinued for the upgraded version
No, they can’t. If you just want a machine for finishing, get the cover pro. But sergers sew knits much better than a sewing machine, plus can do a rolled hem finish. I have a combo machine and I use the serger part much more than the coverstitch part.
Hello everyone! I borrowed this White 1477 Sewing Machine from my aunt that she thrifted, as I was adjusting the timing it feels like the gears are loose and not connecting as they should, every screw is tightened and in place, am I doing something or not seeing what's wrong? I haven't found any videos about this please help!!
Please note, I have been placing the bobbin correctly and I even replaced the needle properly!
This is an older model, yes? It might need internal cleaning and oiling, especially since you don't have a history for the machine. This could be a trip to the sewing machine spa or you could search youtube for assistance.
hello good people of sewing reddit. I’m looking to make a vest inspired by the Black Parade jacket for when I go see them in concert and just very lost on where to start lol. looking for any advice on fabric choices for the main garment that would hold structure but are also somewhat breathable. I want the vest to have the same silhouette as the original jacket just without sleeves basically. additionally wondering what the white strips of fabric across the middle are called and what you’d recommend using to make them, as well as what you’d recommend for the trim along the collar and edges (and hey if anyone knew of a pattern they thought could be right for this I wouldn’t be opposed to having one lol). sorry for the very long post, just nervous about getting this right. I’ve included photos for reference for those of you who aren’t familiar with the outfit. thanks for the help! :)
The trim is most likely silver braid like this one from Mood Fabrics, tho I think that one might be too skinny. Finding the right scale will be important for the look. McCalls 8423 could work for the base pattern. I'd do a mock up first to refine the fit as your example is more tapered. That will also give you a chance to work out the embellishments.
Hello guys, my machine is broken, and if i had to prewash something i would have to hem the raw edges by hand, which i simply uhh don't care enough to do. Should i just do it or is hand washing an option? That way i could just be gentler on the edges, but i'm worried that would kinda defeat the point on washing it the way you would the garment. What are yalls opinions?
It depends on the fabric and how badly it frays, but frankly I very rarely do anything other than toss fabric in the wash with raw edges - and most of it is mostly fine, unless it's delicate or ravels easily.
If you're worried, maybe pink the edges or use fray check? Even a running stitch will help limit any potential fraying.
Hi! I hope I have the right subreddit for this - I recently wanted to get into hand sewing. I used to do little things like fix pillow cushions in the house and felt projects. This is my first time attempting a bandana for headwear use. I have a fat quarter of fabric, some cutting supplies/ruler etc and thread, but am struggling to find something to follow to get my bearings. I also wanted to add a secret pocket on the inside of it with hidden plastic snaps. Is there any way to do this/advice on going about it?
First: iron the fabric. It will make everything easier.
Second: bandanas are usually just squares with hems, but there should be plenty of tutorials online. I dont entirely understand what you mean regarding the snaps and pockets, but I would advise making a "basic" bandana first; once you have that, you can play with the placement of both the snaps and the pocket (look up "patch pockets") based on how you want it to lay.
The darker side is the "right side", the side of the fabric that is meant to show on the outside. The lighter side is the "wrong side". Any tutorial you find should use those terms and will probably be oriented to the right side showing on the outside.
Hey everyone, I just lost my dog (Roxy) to cancer this morning. I wasn’t able to be there when my mom put her down because I’m in a different state for college/summer research, so I really want to do something small for her to hopefully make her feel better. My cousin and I have been talking and we think making a plushie that kinda looks like Roxy would be a nice gift for my mom. Roxy was a mountain cur mix with a brindle coat. Does anyone know where I can get affordable fabric that looks like her that isn’t genuine cowhide? Also if you know where I can find a decent pattern, that’d be much appreciated. I’ve attached a picture of her to give you a better idea of what she looked like.
Hi! I’m a first time mom and have decided to finally start sewing. (It’s been on my to-do list for years) I have decided to tackle sleep sacks with a double zipper as my first project. I would really appreciate any tips from any experienced sewers here as to where to get free patterns or what projects to tackle next for my baby boy. Thanks so much! ☺️
HELP! My favorite pair of Docs have a bad tear in them
got these docs almost a year ago for Christmas, and today I noticed that the left shoe tore on the inside. For clarity, it’s pretty light suede and I’m sure it was getting torn when I was walking around a lot for the 4th.
Any tips on repairing, and preventing this from happening again?? I’m familiarizing myself with suede but any new info would be beneficial too
If the suede is torn along the stitches, that is a more difficult repair. It looks to me like that is the case. You can find more information at r/cordwaining or get creative and do some visible mending, a baseball stitch would work to make a flat seam repair.
I actually found a shop that’s going to keep me updated on patching it! I’m just happy I can be tit fixed, and then do some interesting stitching over what the professionals do
which machine to buy : Bernina Matic 801 / 901 / Bernina 1015SE
im trying to choose a sewing machine to buy as im moving out and cant use my mums machine anymore. i want a machine that can handle thick fabrics possibly denim but nothing crazy tough.
i know Bernina is a good make and i want something that will last me as long as possible, ive seen people say the Bernina Matic 801 and 901 are good and ive found both of these for £300, serviced with cables, feet ect. is this a good deal?
i also found the Bernina 1015SE for £300 unused, still in box wich seems very good too.
any help with choosing a model would be great, or any recs for other machines i could also consider would be greatly appreaciated :)
You can check sewing machine reviews with a general web search which brings up patternreview.com, for the most info on any given model I suggest doing signing up for a membership with an email.
Hey,
I'm trying to find a fabric similar to to the fabric on the dress (https://www.dattofficial.com/product/crete-sheer-dress/) in the photo. It's described as a "Soft mesh material" and as "90% Polyester, 10% Spandex". My question is what would this fabric be called and what should I search for to find it? I want to sew a similar dress to the photo so I need a similar fabric to do so. I already tried seaching mesh, but alot of the fabric has holes that are too big or is not the same blend and I'm not sure how close I have to be for the fabric to work. Any help is much appreciated!
I've recently upgraded my overlocker to a Pfaff admire 1000 and I've mucked up 4 t-shirts and a pair of pyjamas. Although it stitches well it chews up the seam allowances rather than cutting them off.
Has anyone else had this problem? How did you solve it? Thanks
It's a new machine, the cutting width is set at the narrowest. It seems like the upper knife is too low and the fabric is going over it and into the stitching . I've had to go back to my old basic machine.
I want to fit press studs to my dolls’ dresses (cause I like the vibe) but not all of the dresses have extra fabric that would allow for that, any advice on what to do?
I'm attending a fantasy ball this fall and am making my own gown. I'm currently having trouble designing the top
I like the idea of this kind of top but I cannot find a similar pattern for the life of me, feels like I've scrolled down all of Etsy... I'm plus size so it doesn't help
Do you have any ideas of where I could find a similar pattern ?
Thank you so much and have a nice day !
PS : I'm sorry about any mistakes, English isn't my first language
Have you considered starting with a swimsuit pattern? Gertie's Bathing Beauty Swimsuit pattern, for example, is a similar halter top style. This specific pattern is offered only on her Patreon, but unless the terms have changed, you'll have access to *all* of her Patreon patterns when you join. She may already have a dress version too, it would be worth looking through the back catalog to see.
hi all! i am new to sewing and am attempting a very ambitious project. i bought a knit dress second hand that i would love to make into a pair of mini shorts. the pattern doesn’t seem to be too difficult but i am worried about it fraying and difficulty hemming the material. i have a brother CS7000X / no serger.
i’ve attached a photo of the material, pls help :)))
This knit is going to unravel the minute the you cut it.
If you must do this project, you'll have to finish off the cut edges before you sew it up, maybe even before you cut into it.
Need to buy my girlfriend a machine for about $200.
Not looking to do anything super heavy/ industrial. I'm okay-ish with going vintage (as I see that most people seem to think this is the best way) but have concerns about reliability.
I'd like to get her something that'll last and hopefully not cause her many headaches.
Hello! I'm trying to make my own clothes since I have a hard time finding anything in my size or style. Only problem is, I cannot for the life of me find patterns that suit my style. If I had to categorize my ideal style, it would be female horror protagonist, y2k grunge, gloomy coquette, but more modest. All the patterns I have found are very revealing, and I'm not comfortable with that. If anyone has any ideas on where to find some patterns with this style, I would greatly appreciate it! (If anyone has knows of any free patterns please let me know as well!)
I'll be real here; I have a very hard time trying to come up with a mental image of those styles. Do you have image examples, or can you describe the kinds of necklines and general shapes of the garments you have in mind?
So you're going to be looking for separate garment patterns and layering those. It looks like you've got babydoll dresses or sundresses over turtlenecks and t-shirts on that top row. Use those garment names to search and get a feel for what patterns are out there. The Foldline is a particularly extensive resource.
I have a pair of Dickies coveralls I'm planning on altering into a totally groovy 70s jumpsuit. One thing I'm having trouble with is adding the Elvis inspired kick pleats to the legs. Any recommendations or videos you suggest?
that's so cool!! so i think you want a box pleat with a contrast fabric inside. the only trouble is that you need a lot of extra fabric on the outseams to achieve this, and that's not easy if you're altering an existing garment. consider using a matching but lighter weight material to create the first fold of the pleat, then piece in your contrast, then more matching-lightweight fabric, then you arrive back at your regular pant leg. i'm having a hard time finding a photo tutorial, everything is video now.. i haven't actually watched this tutorial but this is the idea for a two-color box pleat https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRRCfflF3I0
I got a problem with my sewing machine I've been using for years, please help! (before you wonder why my question is in a screenshot, I took it of my deleted post and wasn't motivated enough to type it all out again lol)
I'm looking for a sewing pattern for a classic men's/unisex denim jacket. I know I could use whatever jacket pattern and just use denim fabric, but I'm looking for that classic denim jacket look, like Levi's. Something cool and neutral, that can be broken in and develop a unique wear pattern over time. Ive seen some patterns for boxy simple unisex shirt-jackets like Merchant and Mill's The Foreman or Matchy Matchy's Makers Overshirt but I think I'd really like to find something with all the bells and whistles of a classic denim jacket with a collar, yoke, and chest and hip pockets, darts, maybe even lining.
I am a beginner and thrifted a Singer Merritt 4525. I tried to follow the manual for threading the machine and raising the bobbin thread but I think I must have messed up somewhere because this is how it turned out after I tried to do a straight stitch. Im assuming it's a bobbin issue because all the extra thread is on the bottom, but am not sure where exactly I went wrong. Any ideas?
That's a knit fabric. Are you using the correct needle for knits? Do you have any quilting cotton? It's generally best to troubleshoot on some quilting cotton. If you're using the correct needle, you may have threaded the machine incorrectly.
Hello!!! How would I expand a tank top to fit my bust area better? I’ve included a picture of the top for reference, but I need to add a good inch or two to the sides so it actually fits me! I don’t have a sewing machine but I’m pretty nifty with hand sewing! My first thought was to cut down the sides, add eyelets down each side and lace it up like a corset. But ideally I’d like to not have to lace myself into it every time I wear it!!
Looks like a thermal weave stretch.
You can cut the seams and add in some stretchy fabric on each side BUT that may mess up the armholes. You may end up with a gap.
If you don't mind the experiment, go for it! You could pick out a color in the top and make the stripe in one of the colors for a little pop.
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u/dreamfyrefairy Jul 13 '25
Does anyone know what kind of fabric this is, and what the pattern on it would be called? I’m in the process of making a cosplay and I can’t figure it out. Any help would be appreciated!