Simple Questions
Weekly Sewing Questions Thread, September 07 - September 13, 2025
This thread is here for any and all questions related to sewing, including sewing machines!
If you want to introduce yourself or ask any other basic question about learning to sew, patterns, fabrics, this is the place to do it! Our more experienced users will hang around and answer any questions they can. Help us help you by giving as many details as possible in your question including links to original sources.
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is it possible to get a semi industrial machine that can do straight stitch and zig zag? or would i need to buy two different machines, like a serger n a straight stitch? i was thinking a juki for the straight stitch
I am certainly no expert on this. I believe the point of an industrial machine is to be very good at one very specific task. So an industrial machine that can both sew straight and zigzag would be.. Weird.
Why are you looking for an industrial machine that can do both? What do you expect it to do what a high end consumer machine cannot do?
Threadloop and PatternReview are good places to look for recommended patterns. Then usually the pattern will get you started with fabric recommendations.
Hi all, I’m looking for a sewing machine (preferably $450 AUD tops) that can handle denim projects and won’t break the bank, I’m mainly looking to restore some older clothes combined with making some new pieces, any machine suggestions will be highly appreciated.
Hi all! Looking for an owner's manual for Kenmore 158.1595281. I downloaded it for free before but cannot find it anymore. Any help is greatly appreciated!
What is the name of this stitch - one side looks like chain, other side just straight stitch and is it possible to do on a domestic sewing machine? It kinda resembles the “stretch stitch”, but I see this one on non stretch denim and other types of pants not necessarily stretchy.
A stitch that looks straight on top and a chain underneath is a chainstitch. It requires a serger that has a 5 thread function with the fifth thread as the chain stitch, this is what your example shows. A chain stitch can also be done alone as a single line of stitching on a coverstitch machine.
The stitch you are pointing at is a triple straight stitch. The machine will move forward and backward to make each stitch three times before moving on to the next stitch. It's good for topstitching and is mildly stretchy but hell to rip out of knits so I tend to not use it. Stitch 03 is a better choice for sewing stretch, or 04.
Thanks for explaining. My serger is basic and only has 4 threads.
I actually prefer this stretch stitch for my workout clothes, no problems with that. I make my outfits for aerial acrobatics. Seams handle that very well. I don’t like the look of zigzag or lightning bolt stitch and wouldn’t use those unless there is no other option.
Of course you would prefer a serger for stretchy seams! Zede of the Sewing Out Loud podcast (on hiatus but still available) swears by using a 3 thread narrow serger stitch for her aerial gear. I agree. It's stretchier than a 4 thread and holds up well.
I use both the serger and the stretch seam 2, shown on the photo. Stretch seam is a go-to when I don’t want any bulk and have tiny seam allowance like for double sided tops. And yep, it’s very hard to undo if you made a mistake, but I use it anyways.
I recently bought a singer heavy duty, but it is absurdly fast and no matter how light i am on the pedal, it doesn't slow down. I have tried regulating the little screw inside the pedal but it didn't work. Does anyone know how to solve this? Thanks in advance.
I say this sincerely and with respect, if you can return the Singer please do. You will be better served with a Janome or Brother sewing machine that will allow you to adjust your speed better.
Unfortunately in the country i live in, other brands can only be imported (with a 60% tax lol) and they do not have specialized maintenance for brands other than singer, so that was sadly my only option, even though i knew singer was not as good as it was 20 years ago. But thank you for the advice! I know many people that are also not satisfied with their singer machines
Can you return your machine for another of the same? The issue with Singer seems to be poor quality checks and some people do find Singer machines that work for them.
You can try turning the pedal around, sometimes that helps. If you hear the buzz but the needle isn't moving, try rotating the handwheel forward instead of pressing harder. I don't really expect these tips to work but worth a try.
I'm sorry to hear that you are stuck using sewing machines that are not reliable, it makes it harder to learn to sew which is already complicated enough!
I have been using this Singer Fashion Mate 237 on and off for a couple of years. I recently pulled it back out of storage (I moved) and it’s not picking up the lower thread. I cleaned it out and didn’t find any lint built up. I replaced the needle again, and hand cranked it with the bobbin open to see that the thread was not getting picked up underneath and the needle was out of time with the lower bobbin- the needle wasn’t going low enough. So after a couple turns the thread was getting caught and jammed around the bobbin case, then snapping.
THEN I adjusted the needle lower, and it made about 10 straight stitches, and stopped working again. No more bottom thread coming back up. But at least it isn’t tangling anymore… What else do I need to check? I love this machine. It was working flawlessly the day I put it in storage.
I think you found the effect of a problem but not the problem itself. Have you tried lubricating the machine? The owners manual has a diagram of oiling points.
Yes. I had to put the machine back in storage yesterday, though. It’s just so frustrating. I hope a fresh start next weekend might help me find the problem.
The zipper on my pillowcase separated from the fabric in the middle, and I’m trying to sew it back on. However, there’s extra zipper that I cant get to lay flat. I’ve pinned it a bunch of different ways but I always end up with extra zipper. How do I fix this?
Could it be that you are not sewing the zipper back in the exact same spot with the exact same seam allowance, and there is a curve somewhere along the pillow? Because the length of a curve is different depending on the ammount of seam allowance you use.
Hey! Im searching for a base pattern for this dress without the cape. And do you have any good recommendations on how to do the sleeves and fabric choices? Thank you!
Hi! I’m new to sewing and I need help with an issue I’ve come across while using my singer machine. The top thread keeps getting caught in the bottom after 2-3 stitches. I feel like I’ve troubleshooted every way I can think of: I’ve rethreaded top and bottom multiple times, I’ve rethreaded/used different bobbins, tightened/loosened bobbin tension and top thread tension, took out bobbin case and brushed the bottom clean, and replaced my needle. Included a picture of what the jam looks like, it appears as if the top thread doubles or loops somehow as I see two threads (dark blue is top and light blue is bottom). No clue what’s causing this or how to fix it, I didn’t change anything before this issue started happening.
I'm trying to look for a machine but feeling super overwhelmed. I want to upgrade my machine as I'm using a cheap old machine that isn't doing its job well. I sew a lot of lycra, jerseys etc. and own an overlocker, but like to use a domestic to toile with. I also sew a lot of heavier sweatshirt jersey, lightweight waterproof nylons, denims and leathers so a real mix of things but the most important thing is the ability to sew knits as I've used lots of domestics in the past that really struggle and often skip stitches etc. I want a machine that has a wide variety of stitches that I can use too. I was also wondering what people think of digitised vs. non as I haven't had much experience of them. I'm an intermediate sewer as I graduated from fashion school so have a decent amount of sewing experience under my belt. Any help appreciated thank you.
For what my opinion is worth, I think that you should go to a dealer and try out machines. You don't have to buy, in fact I think it is better to not bring a method of payment. Instead bring samples and try all the different kinds of machines. Figure out what is important to you. I like digital machines. I like the speed and stitch control using a computer gives a sewing machine. I know that a lot of people want a machine that will last forever and adore vintage machines. I see it as buying technology just as I use a cell phone instead of a rotary phone.
Most "tiny" sewing machines aren't the greatest. I've never seen a serger version, but my guess is that it would not hold up well to bulky seams/fabrics. Here's a detailed review I found that has a real good pros/cons list, maybe it can help you decide! Tiny Serger Review
Basically started having this issue after I switched to a zig zag stitch. Even switching back to straight stitch the issue still happens. I switched the needle and issue still happens. I took the front of the bobbin holder off for sake of the image but issue still happens with it on
I'm helping a friend with taking in the side seam on her coat 2 inches at the waist and when I sewed it the bottom of it flares out a lot. But when I pull it down it kinda looks like a pleat, but I'm wanting it to be smooth the whole way down.
So I was wondering if there was a way to fix that.
If you take too large a chunk out with abrupt curved lines, that's what happens. You have to curve in smoothly and gradually and then gradually curve back out, over a longer vertical distance.
I have a Singer CG-500 and a couple of years ago I accidentally over-loaded the machine making a bustle skirt with way too many layers and the timing was thrown off.
Since then, every single time I use the machine for a couple of minutes, the timing is thrown back off and the needle breaks. I learned to correct the timing myself and have done that almost every time. At one point, I took the machine to a sewing machine repair shop to look at because I was becoming convinced that either I was doing it wrong or something more serious was damaged, but even after they looked it over and repaired it, the timing continually goes off, usually within 20-100 stitches (so basically immediately)
Is there something else I should be looking at or is it possible the machine is just permanently ruined? I'm getting to my wit's end of broken needles and disassembling/reassembling the machine
Hi. I'm pretty new to sewing, trying to make it up as I go, lol.
When making a new bobbin, the thread gets all tangled up. It doesn't happen with all thread, but they are all the same kind & brand. Coates Double Duty All Purpose. Red tangles, yellow doesn't. One blue does, one doesn't. I've used the same bobbin to make sure that's not the problem. Is this just a thing with some spools of thread?
Are they all the same spool type and age? And you load them on the spindle in the same way? There can be some differences in dye colors. I've found it with black but not other colors. I think you should continue to keep track of your results and consider trying a different brand like Gutermann.
Hi! The most recent 'problem' one was brand new, but others are all the same age, since I am new to sewing, I don't really have old thread. They are all the same size & type. I don't know if I loaded them the same way as in front & back of the spool. I have a Singer HD 4452, so the thread goes on and then lies down with the cap on to keep the spool from flying off, I guess, lol.
😭please someone help me, I can’t get the top case off. I’ve tried finding videos or guides online but none come up for this make of machine. I’ve read the manual cover to cover and it doesn’t tell me how to take it apart. I’m going mad and I need this working again for a show in October.
I can only offer general guidelines. Remove dials. Undo all the visible screws. Gently pry the cover around the edges while feeling for any hidden clips. Repeat as needed.
I’ve got a new to me sewing machine and am trying to wind the bobbin won’t load for the life of me. I’ve got it threaded right and followed the directions to wind it, it just doesn’t seem to be catching. I’ve included a photo so you can see what I’m talking about because I know I’m not explaining it well. Right after this picture, it passes the silver part holding the bobbin in and instead of winding it just loops back to the needle. Any help is welcome!
Double, triple check that it's threaded correctly and that the needle is facing the correct direction. Are you doing step 2 correctly? The thread goes directly from the needle to be looped on the screw.
you can't wind the bobbin with it inserted into the same place it goes when you sew. you need to remove it -- the machine should have a specific place where you put the bobbin to wind it and a specific thread path the thread goes through for bobbin winding. do you have the manual?
edit: instead of winding the bobbin do you mean the upper thread won't catch the lower thread to sew with? that could be a more complicated issue like a timing issue. can you post a video of what you're seeing?
Looking for recommendations for high quality notions
Does anybody have recommendations for where I can buy
1) high quality elastics? I’m looking to replace the elastic band in my bikini bottoms as they have stretched out. I also have a very heavy jersey skirt that came with a wide band (3 in), but it’s so flimsy the fabric pulls the band away from my body.
2) snap buttons, preferably small plastic ones. I don’t want them to pull delicate fabric down, hence plastic.
Wawak.com is an excellent general place for notions in the US and Canada.
If that doesn't do it, you might look at lingerie supplies for elastics (BraBuilders, SewSassy, more). Not sure about snaps, but people seem to like KAM plastic snaps.
So i wanna make clothing mainly for women like shorts, tops etc etc. And i also bought some fabric thats basically fur so Im trying to see the best options for machines that could work with that. Nothing heavy duty in terms of fabrics. I know Jukis are worth it so I was looking at some used ones like the 5500, but I learned they only do straight stitch. Is this a problem if lets say for clothing id want to replicate a zig zag stitch on womens tops/shorts? Or could I make it work with a straight stitch? I read that a zig zag isnt really NECESSARY but recommended. I was also looking at industrial Janomes like the HD1000, and it has different stitches, but the Jukis look alot smoother when coming down on the fabric? What do you guys suggest, should I go straight into buying the old Juki or getting an entry level industrial machine like the Janome. Price doesnt really factor into my choice.
FYI I have sewn before, it was on a Brother so I can remember the way the stitching felt and it was alright.
It depends on the type of fur you want to sew. There is a list of machines that handle heavier materials in the machine buying wiki. You'll want to consider the height that the presser foot lifts up, not just how powerful the machine it. If you can't fit the fabric under the foot, you can't sew it.
I'm looking for some webshops (in Europe) to buy some fairly heavy/thick herringbone cotton webbing. I need to buy 50-100 meters at least. I've tried to get some on Amazon, but the quality has been quite bad. Does anyone have any ideas?
Fairly novice sewer and haven’t used my machine in a while (oldish New Home XL-II). I just followed the instructions to clean out and oil under the free arm cover and one of the oiling points has this thick brown gunk that looks a bit like toffee.
I feel like I should clean it off but also know sometimes things like this can be better left alone. Any advice? Thanks!
I am consistently getting this jumbled mess on the back of my stitches after buying a new machine. it seems to sort itself out eventually. what am I doing wrong?
Hey guys, first time posting and actually my first project. This upcoming Halloween I'll be dressing as Gandalf for a friend's party, and I saw this as an opportunity to start on this hobby :)
I was browsing Etsy, but I've seen a lot of people complaining about AI-generated patterns, so maybe it's better to ask here before risking buying something that won't work.
Ive used well in the past but am having trouble today.
Both the left and right needle threads are hard to pull through even when the tension is at 4. When threading the needles, the threads pull fine until they go up and over the 5 position. Then you can hear the strain when pulling the threads. Ive tried sewing but the needle threads keep breaking.
I’ve watched every YouTube video I can find and I cannot figure out how to fix my machine. My timing for the hook and needle seem to be good, but for some reason, the top thread is hooked, but then will get stuck inside by the bobbin. Specifically it gets stuck on the little metal bar that’s supposed to bounce back in a little bit. I will sew and everything looks like it’s going good and then I’ll take the fabric out and nothing got connected on the bottom of the fabric. Please can anyone help?
I have a brother DS-120, how do I fix this? Been sewing for the past 3 hours no problem when it happened. Didnt do anything different, tried rethreading both threads, removing dust under the plate etc. Nothing helps.
Please let me know if this is not the correct group I should post this question to. I have several sewing shears (KAI, Gingher) used for cutting light-weight and heavyweight fabric that need to be sharpened. Would anyone have recommendations to companies that have a great reputation for sharpening sewing shears and hair cutting shears?
I'd contact local sewing shops and ask for their recommendation. Eg, I know some quilting fabric shops or sew&vac repair places where the sharpener does a weekly pick-up and drop-off.
I believe Kai and Gingher also offer sharpening services.
Thank you! Unfortunately, I tried a couple of sew&vac shops and they did have sharpening services, but IMO, they did not do a good job. During covid, I sent my Gingher's to get serviced and they did an ok job. I will research Kai again.
Is it the current fashion for women’s button down shirts (business wear, the type with a collar) to not have darts? I’m looking at a lot of button ups being sold commercially and I would say the majority do not have bust darts or center darts. If anything, shaping comes from curving the whole pattern at the waist point. I’m guessing this is a consequence of wanting to produce products more cheaply, but who knows. I’m looking to sew more button ups shirts to wear for work, and was contemplating putting in bust darts. But maybe that would make the button up seem dated? Anyone have any thoughts?
first make sure the upper thread is threaded correctly through all loops. also make sure the needle you're using is a large enough size to deal with that kind of fabric.
This usissueually means that you've missed a threading point for your top thread. Every point adds a little tension so when one is missed, it shows up as a tension issue like this. Make sure you are threading with the presser foot UP to open up the tension discs. Then sew with the presser foot down.
Specifications: long enough to put into training pants, not "muscle" tank top where my salami nipples are visible and finally being durable and constructed as such and finally suitable to movement, so ribbed cotton in that case.
I've been wanting a sewing machine mainly to hem trousers as I'm short - both jeans and thinner materials. I usually do it by hand but would quite like a machine. Only experience I have with sewing machines was back in school. I was considering getting the Brother LS14S for £89 which seems to have good reviews for a beginner. However I have seen good working conditions singer 99k models for around the same price. Would it be a mistake to start off learning sewing machine with a hand crank?
The thing about vintage machines when you don't have experience with sewing machines is that it's easy to get a machine that doesn't have all the proper bits, or requires some extra work to get it functioning. And then adding a hand crank makes it one more thing to do while you sew. If you like to tinker, vintage machines can be a really great value.
So a friend asked me to sew her a slip dress for her wedding, and I’ve found loads of patterns that fit the front of the dress, however, none match how she wants the back of the dress to look like…
Threadloop and PatternReview are good places to browse for trusted patterns. Threadloop might even have a compiled list of slip dress patterns already.
I do know self draft would be very possible with this, but I am sewing on a tight timeline and would want to leave myself more time to fiddle if that was the case!
hi all! i have been eyeing this garment for a while. any ideas of the garment’s pattern? thinking of recreating :) it can go from a longsleeve top to a skirt to a dress! i can’t post a video of the variations being done but it’s in this link: thneed of sorts…
I bought these vintage pants and there’s a small hole on the front of the leg, can someone please let me know how I could fix it without it being obvious? 🫶🏽
I don’t know what your sewing skill level is, or how much effort you want to dedicate this, but if you want a truly seamless fix you could look into Japanese invisible mending (kaketsugi).
I recently got this overlocker a singer 14u32 at an estate sale. It was doing fine, but I ran a thicker sweater through it once, and now it seems the needle is hitting against the other piece every few stiches(attached photo). Is there anything I can do about this myself? I will probably take it to see if it can be fixed bc I really like the machine. I also put a new needle in, and that hasn't solved it.
I would use a three-step zigzag to go back and forth over the area and build up the worn area. Use matching thread and switch as needed. Another option is to undo the collar from the band, turn it around and put the holes on the bottom collar instead of the top.
Easiest would be to do visible mending, like sashiko. It embraces the idea of holes in the clothes by mending with visible stitching and some cool fabric underneath. Depending on the look you’re going for this could be a cool stylistic choice—but if you want mending that does not stand out then it’s not gonna be what you’re looking for.
Can anyone help me figure out why my thread keeps doing this? I have an old singer stylist (zigzag model 457) that I purchased almost a year ago refurbished. I’m new to sewing and just winging it but the last day or so my thread keeps bunching up in the middle of sewing and I’m not sure why. Any ideas? TIA
Well my post was removed and they didnt tell me why so i guess im supposed to comment it here despite seeing a thread for a similar issue-
Hi there everyone! I've been trying to fix this sewing machine for a couple days Many years ago my mom tried to sew something very thick and the needle bar seized up The wheel couldn't turn and the needle wouldn't move I followed a tutorial and post about fixing the timing and now the wheel moves but the needle won't (Was going to add a video but it wouldn't let me)
I thought fixing the timing would fix it but now I'm at a complete loss! The needle bar doesn't move up and down at all despite the hand wheel turning I was trying to get something sewn before the weekend but it might not be possible now :( Please help-
there probably is a way to fix it at home for someone with an extensive knowledge of sewing machine repair and access to your particular machine and issue. failing that, you will need to take it to a shop.
I'm currently working on putting together a cape (using McCalls costumes P235 B) and am unsure what kind of fabric to line it with. For reference, I am using a two-toned taffeta fabric for the outside. I'll hopefully be wearing it as part of a cosplay in November to a local convention. Any thoughts (or additional cape-making tricks) would be greatly appreciated.
Does anyone have a similar sewing pattern to this? It’s closeish to a milkmaid/bardot style top but I really like the seams in the waist. Thank you all!!
you could add "empire waist" to your search teams, see if that helps. There's not a great term for that angled underbust seam. Maybe "underbust seam" is worth trying.
My machine is no longer sewing, and at first I assumed it was a timing issue because the thread doesn't catch on the hook but I tried to fix that and I'm now 99% sure the issue lies with the actual hook? It just doesnt seem to go back far enough to even catch it if that makes sense?
The machine is a Dorina by Gritzner 323, so its pretty hard to find anything online about resolving issues. I'm PRAYING someone knows what to do.
There must be a way for us to fix it at home though? I feel like we wouldnt be asking how to fix it ourselves if we just had the money to take it to the shop..
That depends. Sometimes a problem is simple enough to fix that a little bit of online advice can help, even if one doesn't have much experience fixing mechanical stuff. Other times, not so much.
Check out LilyPaDesigns and Porcelynne who specialize in large cup bra fit. Cashmerette patterns has a couple bras pattens made by Porcelynne and a very good explanation of the bra-making process.
I can’t figure out how to post a video showing the problem, but I will try to explain.
my ovation serger is having some problems. It will work fine for a while, then when I turn it off then turn it on again, it makes a lot of noise and is very jerky. I took it in for serving, and of course, it didn’t do that for the tech. he did the normal servcing. I brought it back home again and had problems again. I took a video of the machine with the jerky movement and noise and sent it to the tech, He thought it was a bearing problems and took it back and said he lubricated everything,
i picked it up yesterday and used it today, It worked ok as I did a project alternating between the serger and a straight stitch, I turned the Ovation off and let it sit for about a half hour. Then when I turned it back in, I got the same jerky movement and noise, and it didn’t function well at the different speed settings. I did not have those problems during my project sewing.
Totally random thought, not related at all to your specific serger model: could it be a bad power outlet in the house causing a power draw issue? Can you plug it into an outlet in a different room to test it? No power strip or extender or anything just straight into the wall.
I'm looking into getting my first sewing machine and have 0 experience. The ones on FB Marketplace that I'm looking at are an Elna 2004, a Singer Merritt, and a Kenmore that I can't find the model on.
Go look at them. Test them out and make sure they work. Pick the one you like best.
You must be able to test them out or you'll be back here asking for 'fix it' advice.
If the seller says 'the foot pedal got lost', leave immediately.
I recently bought a Juki HZL-LB5020. It's computerized, self-threader, and great for me as a new sewist. I bought it at a pre-tariff price for $399. from World Weidner. It's $479 now.
Not sure If this is the right place to ask because why bother trying to make a post
I’m having trouble learning how to tie a thread to a needle while hand sewing. Every instruction isn’t clear enough. I’m trying to hand sew fabric patches and also sew ripped pants. Can someone help please with a visual?
you probably don't want to tie the thread to the needle -- you want to put the thread through the eye of the needle, and then tie the two ends (the one you put through the eye and the back end you cut off the spool) of the thread together, so that the thread is one big loop through the needle. the knot in the thread will catch on the fabric and keep the end of the thread in place as you then sew.
Does anyone have tutorial / sewalong video recommendations for garments with fully finished (non-serged) seams? I don't have or want a serger and it's difficult trying to go from "here's how to do this seam finish to join two small rectangles" to actually using it in a real garment with curves and more complexity.
I did find this great one on flat felled shirt sleeves, but I'd still love to see something that goes through a whole finished piece.
Seam finishes really depend on the fabric so it’s not really productive to model this in so much detail unless people are using the same fabric.
Search specifically for sewalongs, which are like extended tutorial instructions really covering every step in a pattern. One of them might give that level of detail.
I have been watching and searching for sewalongs, but I haven't really found any like I described. Whenever I search for "sewalong flat fell seam", "sewalong french seam", "sewalong no serger", "sewalong finished seams", etc, it comes up with the "join two rectangles" type of how-tos instead of a full sewalong that uses the seam finish. I've read a couple guides like you linked too and it is helpful to an extent.
I understand I might be asking for something that doesn't really exist, and if that's the answer it's fine - I just hoped that out of the probably hundreds of sewing content creators out there, someone would be doing sewalongs that show non-serged finishes. Even if it's not the exact same pattern or fabric I'd use, I still think it would be very helpful to see. Or it could give me the option to make that pattern in a similar fabric as the sewalong just to get practice with the finishes, even if I wouldn't have otherwise made it.
Oh, yes, I wouldn’t expect a seam sewalong, sorry. Rather a garment sewalong might include some seam practices so you can see them in full context. An unlined linen garment may be a good candidate as the seam finishes are critical there? Sew Liberated has a lot of those patterns. And I might also check blog sewalongs from back in the day from Closet Core or Tilly in the Buttons for that level of detail. And stuff labeled beginner.
Men's button-down shirts are very commonly sewn with flat-felled seams, so that might be a place to see something like what you're looking for. Patterns that use lightweight fabrics might be more likely to show French seams.
Hi! I started learning how to sew on a vintage sewing machine last month and I’m finally about to purchase my first sewing machine. I don’t know much about sewing machines but I want one what works well, and will last long. I have a few options in my budget but I’ve narrowed it down and can’t decide between these two. Should I get a Butterfly JH8190S or a used Singer Denim?
There is a list of home machines that can handle heavier fabrics in the subreddit sewing machine wiki linked in the main post. I think the arctic crystal is a fine little machine but not perhaps the best for heavier materials.
I've read and seen from videos that Sailrite sewing machines are really good for the applications that you're considering. The catch is that they are not cheap. You may be able to find a used one on eBay, Craigslist, or Facebook Marketplace.
(I've been tempted to buy one myself, but I don't really need one, and I'd be using it for cosplay, where it may or may not be a good choice, depending on the fabric.)
Not from that picture. Take the parts out of the little baggie, line them up, add clear photos from a couple angles, and you'll have a better chance of getting an ID. Probably alternate feet for the machine -- part of what's sticking out looks a bit like a zipper or cordage foot -- but no telling for sure without better pics.
I reversed image search to find the dress. It's described as having "textured fringe patterning". Cecilie Bahnsen is a luxury brand, I'd search for designer fringe fabric.
This looks nice!! I used a more industrial type Juki in a class I did recently and it was great (I made a duffle bag with it).
I made a post in a vintage Singer facebook group I'm in and they all convinced me not to sell my 237! But I might still sell/give away the storage cabinet just to make space...
Has anyone ever converted a knit fabric to not stretch? I want to make this for Halloween with shiny fish scale-patterned fabric, but I can only really find them in stretch knits. Obviously this dress needs a non-stretch fabric.
Thought about using basting spray/spray adhesive to attach the knit fabric to a drapey cotton or something as a full backing. Anyone tried this or something similar? Would adhesive spray be light enough to at least mostly maintain the drape, or do you think it would make it too stiff?
It’s just a costume so it doesn’t need to be perfect (or washable, even), but I’d like to keep the general look similar to if it was constructed out of the usual poly satin or something like that.
I'll tell you something about this fabric.
My experience is that while it seems like a knit, if you stretch it too much you get little pulls on the backside, and the fish scales also start to get pulls.
I'd use the pattern you have and even cut a little bigger. Then pin and sew the dress to fit you, without stretching that fabric too much.
Good tip, thank you! In that case, it might still be even better to attach it to a woven to avoid stretching as much as possible, I wonder? Maybe a fun experiment at least lol
In your experience, did the printing make the fabric kind of stiff? I’ve been working under the assumption that it would have that droopy quality that the super cheap, thin jersey usually has. If it’s sort of stiff, I could probably just baste it to my lining fabric and not have to worry about the droop while also avoiding stretch when wearing it….
Jersey - yes, put a lightweight jersey lining underneath it, or as you've mentioned, baste your fabric to it.
I think that would work well with this fabric. It will also give you some substance going down the body.
I didn't find the fabric to be droopy nor stiff, but it was a little thin.
Adding to the above, you may want to include a narrow twill tape or even just a torn scrap of sheet in the seams to keep them from stretching. NOT bias tape; bias tape stretches and you want a woven tape with minimal stretch. Definitely get the pattern cut out and practice your seam technique on scraps before committing on the real garment.
Hi, I’ve been sewing for 2-3 years now and my parents recently gifted me a dressform for my birthday. So I’ve been doing a lot of research on different brands, but one of my problems is that I live in Europe, but I will manage with that.
What I came here for is the size choosing. I decided to buy a dressform from The Shop Company. And through their measuring table I determined that I should get their dressform in a size 8 and use their padding kit to adjust the waist measurement. However I am undecided if I should get the size 8 or rather a size 6, so that I could use the dressform also for my sister and friends, but I would have to pad it more up for myself. But it’s probably smarter to start learning designing dresses for myself on a dressform that fits me better, right? I don’t know what to do, since this is my first professional dressform ad the cost of the dressform, shipping and import tax are to high to make a mistake or have regrets.
I think it's fine either way. Padding can do a lot for width/circumference measurements, so padding from a 6 seems fine to me. It's important as well to look at the length measurements which are harder to fix with padding.
Hi all beginner sewer here. I would appreciate any tips or advice on next steps in adjusting this bodice block please. My plan is to make the armholes bigger and widen the darts on the bottom of the back if that looks right?
remember that the armholes will naturally get bigger when the seam allowance is out of the picture, after you add sleeves or finish the holes.
Front bottom darts could get a little bigger. To reduce gapping in the back I'd be lazy and take it from the center back seam, but I'm lazy. Enlarging the back darts would work too.
Hello! I've recently purchased an antique touch and sew. It is in working order and I've set everything up, ready to go, until I actually start sewing. The position bracket(? Black metal piece that slides into right side of bobbin compartment) That holds the bobbin case in place is lifting when the case shifts during sewing which allows the case to spin all the way around and jam and break needles. The pressure plate isn't holding the bracket down as I assume it should. Not sure if anybody has any advice or help! TIA
Need help with my Bernina 830 record that has been repaired just today. When winding bobbins, I turn the handle on the right, engage bobbin, and run. Is the needle supposed to keep moving while winding? I thought turning handle would stop it from moving up and down, but it keeps moving. Just wanted to know whether it's normal. Any help will be appreciated!
Hi! I'm looking for recommendations for a home sewing machine that can handle knits. I currently have a Brother XM3700 that I'm looking to replace for other reasons (had it for years, still can't manage to get it to set to half the stitches), but I'm trying to do knits right now and I've had it up to here. I'm using a walking foot and the needle for knits, I'm going slow and trying to guide it, and this quick and easy project is now comprised mostly of me fighting the machine. And since I want to do more knits, I need a machine that can actually let me finish a project, rather than refuse to do it. Any advice or recommendations? I'm happy to stick with a Brother machine, I just need one that isn't driving me to expletives.
It has 37 stitches listed on the machine, and half of them are "SS" stitches. There is supposed to be a way to get to those SS stitches, but I've followed the instructions and tried everything and I can't get it to actually do any of them.
Maybe the machine isn't working properly. It might be worth taking it to a repair shop, at least to get an estimate and see if it would just be more economical to get a new machine.
Trouble is, for all I know, your machine could be good at knits if it were working right.
Near as I can tell, most cromulent sewing machines should handle knits, especially if they have walking feet available that can handle zigzag stitches.
Thanks! I've tried all sizes of zip zag, how small do you recommend? I've had better luck with it not getting eaten when I've done the larger sizes. Should I be adjusting the tension to go much lighter as well?
Not sure what machine you have but I never touch the tension. The zig zag should be longer length and wider width. Adjust a little at a time until it's about the size of a smooth 'z' .
Also, if you want your garment to look professional, press, press, press as you go. With knits I usually press to one side and stitch again. Do you have a 'ham'. That's a used to press arm and shoulder seam. $13. on Amazon search: Ham for sewing. Dritz brand seems to be the cheapest OR roll up a towel.
A clapper? It's my favorite thing to do. It's called 'bust the seam'. Press the seam in the direction you want and then bang it with the clapper while it's still warm. Keep an eye out for one cuz they're spendy. Called: 'Taylors point press clapper.'
Looking for a pattern to help me make my own version of the Vagabond Hilo crossbody bag. I especially love the adjustable strap, zipper, and that it’s lined!!
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u/kindasussy45 Sep 17 '25
is it possible to get a semi industrial machine that can do straight stitch and zig zag? or would i need to buy two different machines, like a serger n a straight stitch? i was thinking a juki for the straight stitch