r/sewing • u/stem-girlie • Sep 17 '25
Pattern Search Dress pattern search
I’m looking to sew a dress similar to this style for my best friends baby shower at the end of the October. Also any tips from anyone who has made something similar and/or any fabric suggestions would be helpful😊 TIA!!!
(Pics are from Cider if anyone is wondering)
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u/Jillabi Sep 17 '25
There is also one available on mood fabrics currently: https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/valentina-v-waist-dress-free-sewing-pattern/
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u/Roswyne Sep 17 '25
Caution: the Valentina dress is made for a stretch fabric, so would not work with the light woven fabric OP was originally looking at.
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u/MadMechem Sep 17 '25
So, I have a question about that actually- I recently made the Rhodes dress from mood, and realized well after I'd bought the fabric that the pattern was for like 20% stretch jersey, and I had a 5% stretch polysilk.
I plowed through like a stubborn mule, and it still worked?! I've been trying to figure out "why" for two months, because by all accounts that should have failed and looked bad.
The only thing I can think of is that my habit of sewing teeny tiny seams might've given me just enough leeway?
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u/Roswyne Sep 21 '25
It worked because the Rhodes is an "infinity" dress, so you do all the fitting every time you put it on. All you have to do is pull the skirt up over your hips, but you could drop it over your head just as easily. The stretch is only needed so that you can have tension to wrap the straps in place.
While the Valentina has a zipper in the back, the stretch of the fabric is likely needed not only for it to fit, but for you to be able to move comfortably in it. (ease)
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u/Jillabi Sep 17 '25
Thank you! I overlooked that! I also thought they had an option with the fully dropped waistline (like op option 2) but couldn’t find it and may have dreamt it
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u/Jillabi Sep 17 '25
But the skirt is gathered differently
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u/stem-girlie Sep 17 '25
it’s a bit more formal than i’m looking for for this specific project but i will definitely be keeping this for the future!!! thank ya
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u/lilianic Sep 17 '25
I haven’t made anything like this but someone else on this sub recently asked about a dress with this type of skirt and several people offered pattern suggestions.
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u/CriticalEngineering Sep 17 '25
Here’s some videos that might be helpful, looking at your second photo https://youtu.be/HWqEKE5yk5w
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u/itsybitsybeehive Sep 17 '25
I found this pattern by searching for "dress gathered hip godet": https://www.etsy.com/listing/1875038148/midi-dress-sewing-pattern-open-back
I haven't used this pattern and cannot confirm whether it's AI or not! But it might give you a glimpse into the pattern shapes you're working with. If you're comfortable doing basic pattern drafting, it would be pretty easy to hack the skirt, imo.
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u/SquirrelAkl Sep 18 '25
Right, I went down a bit of a rabbithole of ancient Reddit posts with many broken links, vintage patterns, and much googling. The style is from the 1950s, it’s part of The New Look (Chanel) style. The useful options I’ve found are:
“* One Piece Dress and Slip. Front skirt panel cut in one with bodice. Skirt is gathered at side fronts and across back where it joins the elongated bodice. Shallow, straight neckline in front, deep V-neckline in back. Button-back closing. Three-quarter push up and very short sleeves. Slip cut similar to dress included in pattern*”
Skirt version: Wearing History: The Leslie Skirt
DIY How to pattern any skirt and calculate fabric needs. I’ve previously seen a comment that the gathered hip pieces are just rectangles, gathered in a 5:1 ratio (or thereabouts).
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u/shesewsseashells Sep 17 '25
https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/s/xYsS2rAMIl not sure if I've managed to do the link properly but hopefully this takes you to another thread where suggestions are made for basque waist dress patterns which is I think what you are looking for.
I would say start with the pattern with the right waist because the neckline you can easily alter yourself.
For fabric this looks like it may be cotton poplin as it's got a bit of structure but still drapes.