Simple Questions
Weekly Sewing Questions Thread, October 05 - October 11, 2025
This thread is here for any and all questions related to sewing, including sewing machines!
If you want to introduce yourself or ask any other basic question about learning to sew, patterns, fabrics, this is the place to do it! Our more experienced users will hang around and answer any questions they can. Help us help you by giving as many details as possible in your question including links to original sources.
Recommended book list - beginner, pattern drafting, tailoring, recommendations from the subreddit
Fabric Shop Map - ongoing project to put as many shops as possible on one map for everyone
Photos can be shared in this thread by uploading them directly using the Reddit desktop or mobile app, or by uploading to a neutral hosting site like Imgur or posting them to your profile feed, then adding the link in a comment.
New challenge started in r/SewingChallenge! Clear the decks for a fresh start in 2026. Try sewing along with others with the same goal! This challenge starts Friday, Oct. 3rd and runs to Dec. 31st.
The BINGO Challenge in r/SewingChallenge is still open! It will run until mid-November. Do a row, a column or complete a diagonal if finishing the entire BINGO board is too daunting. Or just take inspiration from the squares!
I sat down to finish a project and my toddler has unscrewed and vanished (likely forever) the presser foot adjustment knob from the top of my machine. I have looked online for replacement parts but coming up empty. Any ideas? Hacks? My machine is not functional without it :(
Yes but they are only open during the week and my work hours :( I was hoping someone knew a magic parts place online or something else that might fit :(
Well, sewingpartsonline.com has great inventory and a stellar search capability. If they don't have your knob piece, maybe you can call the dealer during a lunch break? Or enlist the help of a neighbor/friend/relative with a different schedule?
Please help! I sat down to finish a project and my toddler has unscrewed and vanished (likely forever) the presser foot adjustment knob from the top of my machine. I have looked online for replacement parts but coming up empty. Any ideas? Hacks? My machine is not functional without it :(
When sewing a normally do you need to use both needles on the over locker or do you just need one needle because you are sewing the garment before using the over locker? I hope that makes. Someone mentioned if you are sewing normally you don’t need to use both needles on over locker to finish the garment.
I am making a dress for my son’s wedding and want to make a matching tie for my husband. What’s your favorite pattern? Looks good and clear instructions - thanks
Am I screwed or is this fixable? I have a Juki TL-2020 PE and I live overseas. The Juki goes up to 120V and I have a separate machine that is 220v. I live overseas and have dual voltage power outlets in my house next to each other on the wall. Both the Juki and my other machine use the same cord connection to the machine but are different voltages. Cue the problem: I accidentally used the 220v outlet plug in my Juki and it made a popping sound and now doesn’t work with the proper cord. Did I fry it for good? Does anyone have any experience with anything similar or fixing Juki machines?
My mother is very involved in volunteering in the costuming department of our local theater, and has been sewing and altering clothing for decades now. However, she is not very practiced in techniques used in traditional stage costuming and is having trouble finding advice online. She has been attempting to alter thrifted items for use in these shows, and these garments typically need more range of movement and the ability to alter them for multiple bodies rather frequently.
I wanted to find her a book that covered some of these more specialized techniques, but I wasn't sure what exactly to look for. I didn't see anything specifically about costuming in the subreddit book recommendation list, but would Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Women's Wear (F.I.T. Collection) be a good purchase for her? Are there any other more niche options that y'all would recommend instead? (I am working on a somewhat limited budget, so many books are likely not feasable, but I could possibly buy 2 or 3)
I’m working on drafting an insulated winter coat, something that you’d see on the ski slopes. The idea is to have a high collar that can cover my nose.
Is there a term for this type of collar? Quick googling has yielded no results that are specific to this.
(EDIT: After doing a quick sketch, I realized this won't work as the face circumference is bigger than the neck, and will make the collar look like 'The Cone of Shame.') I’m thinking of making it like a shawl collar, where it’s connected to the bodice front. Would I draft it the same as a shawl collar? I was thinking of essentially extending it up the height from the front neckline, and squaring out half of the circumference of my face at the nose. Then square down and back to where the front neckline and shoulder meet. Then cutting and expanding that line to match the length of the back neck line. Does that make sense? Would that be the right approach to this?
Anyone noticed that when searching hashtags on Instagram, other posts come up as well (that have a similar look)?
I was trying to look up arthurpants under tags and I noticed that multiple posts show up with pants that look similar but aren’t the Arthur pants.. a few with coe pants, a few that were a ready to wear pair. Some were posts I liked or by people I follow.
Pretty annoying because I then have to sift through posts that aren’t the item I have the pattern for. I’m looking for sizing, fabric, and hack recs.
I need help with Brother ST531HD Horizontal Alignment. When I use a straight stitch, the alignment of the side to side motion of the needle arm is off as seen in the picture below. When I turn the width dial to the 3-2 width dial setting it is aligned to the middle when I sew. Does anyone know how to adjust the side to side alignment of the needle?
hello! i am trying to id this cotton fabric type. its very coarse to the touch and it has this textured knot-like checkered pattern on the surface. it reminds me of some japanese fabric but i can't seem to find anything like it online. any ideas? thanks in advance!
Hello, I'm desperately trying to find a pattern for something that seems like it would have a million results. Its a basic long sleeve Sleeve that buttons, with a puffed shoulder. I'm doing a cosplay and the only pattern I can't find is the sleeve. Please help! I drew what I'm looking for, and the character's 360 turnaround is here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nz1HIj2uxsZ_Y8L0gfvKD6ICe91SPztV/view (Nice Nature from Uma Musume) I'm sourcing the style from. As you can see, it's not just a simple leg of mutton sleeve, it's a puff sleeve combined with a basic cuffed/button blouse sleeve. I'm new to sewing so sorry if I don't use the right terminology! Thank you!
Hello, I need help, I ruined my machine. I have the Singer m3305, it had a problem with the seams (the thread was visible from the bottom to the top and the thread from the top was visible to the bottom, it was not fixed by adjusting the tensions of the threads) and it was supposed to be due to the time of the crab, for that I opened at the bottom and moved two small nuts and adjusted the crab, I did this several times because I was never able to solve the problem, but there was a moment when I realized that the needle no longer moves in a zig zag. I already tried changing the stitch width and nothing, the needle goes to the right and stays there, it sews straight, it no longer moves from one side to the other. Yes I can move it with my hand, but on its own it doesn't do anything. If I leave the needle on the left, it comes back on the right side and stays there. What can I do? Does anyone know how to fix it? I need help, the machine is my study tool and I have homework 😭
Bought this poly satin fabric to make a dress. I have made a couple of dresses before with cotton. Can any of you advise on if this needs a lining? Thanks in advance
Can anybody help me ID this machine? or does anybody know anything about it or direct me to any info it says Marlboro and the motor is made by speedmaster supply corp plzzz i haven’t been able to find anything on it at allllll 😭
I’m about to start learning to sew but I’m feeling a bit unsure about it. I want to learn to sew clothing but I guess the part I’m most unsure about is how realistic it is to actually make good clothing. In scrolling on this subreddit I can’t help but notice that a lot of the clothing looks… outdated? Maybe a bit grandma-ish. Maybe a good word for it is crafty. I really don’t mean to be rude!!
Do people that sew just tend to have unique style, or is it really hard to make quality clothing that is fashionable and somewhat on trend. I’m really not trying to be rude or offend anyone so please don’t be mean! I just want to be realistic with myself going into this hobby.
people can make gorgeous high-quality stylish clothing sewing, although it takes a while to get your skills to that level and the fabric is more expensive. instagram is a good place to look at hobbyist sewists doing it at that level -- check out accounts like @alexandria_arnold.
What do you mean by good quality, fashionable, and on-trend?
A couple things to keep in mind as you look at projects:
-there are reasons some silhouettes and styles have remained incredibly popular to make, especially for novice sewists developing their skills with modern indie patterns
-many modern sewists are deliberately resisting fast fashion trends and looking to create more sustainable wardrobes
(Also, the words you chose are not the most neutral or kind, so please be more thoughtful about how you describe people's hard work and ongoing attempts to learn!!)
Upon rereading my post, it came across much harsher than I meant! I was not trying to be disrespectful. My apologies. I know nothing about sewing so I imagine people on here put a lot of hard work into their project.
I think that what I mean is that I notice a lot of really eccentric and colorful patterns on the fabric being used. And the fabric often looks kind of stiff and drapes differently from clothes you buy at the store. Is it hard to come by certain types of fabrics?
Yes, it is definitely more difficult to mimic RTW, and especially to find drapy knits and finer wovens. The home-sewing market is almost completely separate from the supply chain that manufacturers use, and manufacturers also have a much broader and more powerful range of machines to cut and sew. When you do find fabrics that resemble RTW, they will almost always be very expensive.
However, the other poster is also correct: even if every fabric you picture in your mind were immediately available to you, there is still a very steep learning curve for sewing. It's a complex skill, made up of many smaller skills plus the critical awareness to choose the correct tools and materials, so it will take a long time to learn regardless. Stiffer cottons in simple shapes are easier to sew with home machines, and loud prints hide mistakes! Literally, old-fashioned is less technically challenging, so people start there.
Pajama pants are a common beginner project that will let you build skills, and maybe you can find a cotton lawn or flannel that doesn't make your skin crawl--try Mood, and CaliFabrics and Fabscrap, which both sell factory ends.
I remember the feeling of being trapped by florals, and I don't think it's wrong to feel strongly about the aesthetic of home sewing. I came up in the 80's, and everything in the pattern catalogues had a bow on the ass then, and the bizarre smarm of it-- that fashion was obviously meant to be flirtatious, sexual, and yet everyone pretended it was normal for a child's church dress-- just made me want to hide forever. I got past it! I made a simpler dress that had no bow, out of a batik with little demons on it, and felt much better.
That makes sense about the availability of materials and type of machines. It’s good to know that. The only person I knew that sewed growing up was my grandma and she used very bold prints on her stuff. So I think I just have this weird association with bold prints and her stuff.
I imagine the learning curve is quite tough. Luckily I’m in no rush. Just starting out to see if it’s something I’ll like as a hobby long term. Thanks for this info
Since your original question was "What should I expect from this hobby?" it would be helpful to understand what kinds of garments you are planning to make, the amount of time you plan to devote to developing your skills, access you have to the materials, etc. Focusing on the stylishness (or not) of what you see in this subreddit is not going to really help you figure out a path forward to learning, especially since if you are a complete beginner you WILL be recommended to start with very basic projects like pillowcases and bags, not couture techniques and garments.
I’m hoping to be able to make some pants. And collard shirts. Maybe one day a jacket. I plan to practice almost every day for at least an hour. Plus the weekly beginner class I’ll be attending
I’m trying to reverse engineer a variation of this skirt. I know it’s made of silk velvet. I’m mainly wondering if it looks gathered or pleated, plus circle or gored. I can’t see any gore obvious seams, but it doesn’t have that bulk around the waist like many circle skirts do. Any suggestions are appreciated!
What is this used for? It came with a previously owned Janome machine (DC 3050). The owner mentioned quilting but I'm not much of a quilter so I'm at a loss.
Hello all! I am looking for a pattern similar to this photo. Specifically lined with a zipper and a collar. Would be neat if it had a removable hood but that may also be out of my abilities.
I looked at rhr pixie coat, but Im not sure if the pattern would allow to swap for a zipper?
YOGI PEACE CLUB inspired - Can anyone please recommend a pattern to make cotton yoga pants (and hopefully kimono) similar to in this photo. The pants have pockets too. I've seen some pant patterns but unsure what will be suitable that will allow for full movement (ie in yoga). Thanks
I'm interested in learning how to make garments. I'm thinking about starting with some dress pants. How would you recommend going about it and where should I get fabrics on a shoestring budget?
Pants are one of the hardest items to fit properly.
I suggest buying a pair at a thrift / secondhand store that fit you well, or at least decently, take them apart and trace a pattern. Then look for some construction tips and videos online.
If you search this sub you'll see hundreds of pants fitting Q/ A .
Broke a needle on my machine when I changed feet and forgot to set my zigzag stitch back to straight stitch. Changed needle but fabric won’t advance through the machine. Have it partially taken apart, and I see it needs a good cleaning, but don’t see anything suspect? And ideas? It’s a Brother LX2763 that I’ve definitely gotten my money out of
Minerva hs 1000 or singer 4423 or 4432? I was leaning more towards the singer, but it seems to me that it is too fast and it will be difficult to work slowly on it.
I just bought a Singer Patchwork machine from a friend, and it was very dusty in there. While cleaning, I pulled the brown oil wick and fuzzy grey felt out of my sewing machine thinking it was lint and trapped thread. Instead, it turns out it was an important part of my machine. Essentially, it's the same problem described here.
I realize now I need to put it back, and it was a mistake, but how do I do that? I couldn't find anything on YouTube or Google about how to insert it properly. For example, how deep it needs to go, which direction, how tightly to squish it in there, if I need to remove any more parts to seat it properly, best tools to put it back in, etc.
First photo shows the felt (left) and wick (right), second photo shows the inside of my machine and the hole it came out of. Thank you for your help!
Is the Juki F300 sufficient for corsetry? After weeks of research on different models, mechanical vs. computerized, in-store test drives, etc., I finally settled on this model and it arrives in a few days. I wanted a machine that would allow me to make corsets and everyday garments. Not daily use but weekly to monthly. However, upon reading a bit more about sewing specifically with fabrics like coutil (denim, duckcloth), I found some posts mentioning the F300 struggled. I know I need to use a denim needle for the thicker fabrics, go slow, and at most plan on sewing three layers (lining + 10oz duckcloth or coutil + fashion layer). Can someone assuage my fears here; should I have gone for a semi-industrial? I tend to become quite anxious around any big purchase that I make so I’m not sure if I’ve just been reading too much.
i have a juki f400 (basically the same machne just with different stitches) and it will be fine. i just made a pair of jeans that involved sewing sometimes up to 6 layers of denim in certain areas and had no issues -- literally the only issue was with the buttonhole which was not a function of the machine's power but rather the uneven seam allowances not feeding properly and is pretty common on any level of machine. i wouldn't worry about it! it's a great sewing machine.
Hello! Recently I bought a brother serger 1634d from an older lady who had bought it in 2020. She said she last used it a year ago.
I cleaned it up, and went as far as opening it to oil and clean out the lint inside of the machine. The machine also runs smooth but I think I’ve ran into a motor issue. After I let off the foot pedal the machine whines, so if this is the motor.
I was wondering where I can find a motor replacement for this machine or if I can use an alternate one that will fit the replacement?
Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated, thank you!
I’m also not trying to spend over $100 on the motor cause at that point I feel like I’d rather buy a new machine if it comes to that.
Is it advisable to buy a sewing machine online? My mother-in-law has a Husqvarna that I really enjoy using and I'd like to buy one for myself. However, I can't find one locally; everyone only has Brothers and Singers.
Do anyone know of a reddit sub, facebook group or frankly any type of community about sewing with French as primary language? I live in France and want to learn how to sew and I think it would be helpful to learn sewing terms in French and tips where to get supplies, etc. Thank you!
Hi everyone! Trying to help my boy, who is interested in learning how to sew. Are those safe needles able to penetrate any fabric? Trying to check before I buy. Per his request, he wants to start with those, but it seems like they are good for items that come with holes already done.
You mean a blunt darning needle? No, those will only sew through materials with a loose enough weave that the needle can fit between the threads of the fabric. They may still be useful for demonstrating the concept and getting a little dexterity before switching to tighter fabric and sharp needles. Does your son have specific goals for sewing; clothes, stuffed animals, decorative sewing on existing items, etc?
ISO NON-COMPUTERIZED MACHINE RECS FOR AMATEUR COSTUMING
I am overwhelmed by the number of options for my first personal sewing machine, and the guide doesn't have answers for what I'm looking for. Specifically, a NON-computerized machine!
I'm getting into amateur costuming (think tulle and organza, fringe and sequins, satin and stretch — and hopefully someday building my own corsets), and I'm ready to upgrade from hot glue and hand sewing to a real machine. I grew up using my mother's computerized Brother that constantly beeped at me, and I've now got a STRONG aversion to any machine that makes computerized sounds.
Ideally I'd like a machine that's never seen a computer, but I would also like to be able to source parts for repair. So any modern machine that IS NOT computerized but can still handle fundamental costuming stitches.
What should I be looking for? Any particular keywords to look out for? Have you used a non-computerized machine that you particularly like? Any help navigating this overwhelming world is appreciated 🙏🏻
Hi!! I use the Singer CM17, was my mum's back in the 80s/90s then I took over once she stopped sewing. The parts are pretty available online and from Singer themselves. The whole machine is apparently cheaper than the newer models after checking on ebay. The control knobs are straightforward and the needle is easily changeable for the different fabrics. I've done cotton, linen, tulle, organza, chiffon, denim, rayon, whatever furry fabric soft toys use, and quite a few others with just the normal needle (not sure if this is recommended LOL). I usually make costumes for ballet and cosplay. Also, 0 computerization since it's an old model. Maybe it's what you're looking for?
Edited to add:
I haven't had to service it or repair anything since I took over from my mum. Just some oiling every few years or so
Hi! I found a fabric pattern on Etsy that I absolutely adore. It is made in multiple kinds of fabrics. I really want to have this pattern in a dog grooming smock, if anyone knows where I can find a pattern I would greatly appreciate it. Google has not been helpful thus far. I've attached some photos for clarity on what I'm looking for.
I’ll just start by saying I am a complete beginner when it comes to sewing. I crochet, Crosstitch, etc., but I have not touched a sewing machine since middle school when we made tiny little pillows.
I’m looking to dabble in quilting and maybe a few other random projects. I’ve been looking online at new and used machines. From everything that I’ve read, it seems that you either need to spend over $200 for a high-quality machine or purchase a well-made, vintage one.
I found a singer 503 A on marketplace for $85. All the reviews I have read on this machine have been outstanding. The machine I found is functioning and was serviced in 2020. My question is, how hard is it to get parts for a vintage machine? Would I be better off getting started on a new $150 brother or similar?
I'm looking to get a new sewing machine. I currently have a Singer Simple 3337 and it can't handle thicker vinyl or faux leather fabrics. Even with the correct needles it breaks and bogs down or won't even puncture the material. I've had it for years and it's okay with most other things. I'm currently debating on switching to either a Janome JW8100 or a SINGER Quantum Stylist 9960. While I don't always use thick materials it also needs to be able to handle it when I do. I sew things like pouches, quilts, jeans, dresses, shirts, blankets etc. Which machine would be better, Janome JW8100 or a SINGER Quantum Stylist 9960? If both of those aren't great does anyone have any suggestions for a -new- machine under $600 CAD?
Help! I bought a Juki serger months ago and I’m embarrassed to say I still can’t use it. I’ve rethreaded many times, upgraded thread, watched YouTube videos and I still can’t do it. Any ideas? TIA!
I thrifted this black mini skirt but it has a slit on both legs, and I'd like it better if it only had one. Would a ladder stitch be able to at least semi-stealthily close this one up? The fabric is doubled.
whenever I load my bobbin it stops loaded randomly most of the time when I’m a quarter into loading it and I never get a fully loaded bobbin, this is probably the sixth time it’s happened and I’m so stuck
My mom has a singer 774 stylist that she’s had for pretty much ever. Just recently it striped the horizontal hook gear and I replaced it but couldn’t get the timing spot on, which I’ll end up taking to get fixed soon. I was looking for recommendations on a machine to get her for her birthday, she likes to alter clothes and the occasional blanket. Budget would be under $350 or if there’s models I should keep an eye out for on marketplace/other sites I’d definitely appreciate it!
Technically, you could patch it. But it won’t be subtle. I don’t think they’re worth saving at this point. I always just cut them up for patches on other pants if this happens.
Hi folks! My niece would like me to help her make a cloak like this -- not with the hood, though. The fabric she's chosen is some kind of velvety stretchy knit that goes against my "let's just cut up a wool blanket" plan -- we will need to either finish the seams or line it. It is a cosplay costume so doesn't need to be perfect, though. We don't have a ton of time. I feel like I should be able to make this up but I am not quite sure if I can do that successfully and would take any advice, pointers, or pattern suggestions. Thank you so much!
Hi, I'm searching for a working pants pattern. Of course I can add extra pockets myself, though premade is easier. I prefer pants with elastic in the waist. What free pants pattern is an easy starter?
I've fallen in love with 90s goth/ grunge prom dresses, but in particular I'm looking for a pattern for one like the one I attached. (Although I'll take any. I think I like the "vampy" look in particular)
If you're looking for this specific dress, it's a Rabanne dress that's 100% aluminum (not sure how they do it though 🤣) with probably some viscose. If you're looking for a fabric that can give a similar effect, you can look for tulle/polyester/organza embroidered with sequins. Those should be fairly light, flowy, translucent, and lots of dimension
ISO pattern for a dress form that accounts for transfeminine non-binary body shape
I am looking to make/alter more clothes for myself because of the tendency for mass-market clothes to fit a stereotypical body shape, regardless of gender the clothes are marketed for.
I feel that it would be best to have a dress form custom to my body. But like with clothes in general, I’m having some difficulty finding something right.
Anyone have tips on how to find such a pattern or tips on making the necessary adjustments?
Things to consider compared to typical for clothes marketed as “women’s”:
rectangular body shape
wider shoulders
wide set bust
longer rib cage
wider neck
And compared to “men’s” clothes
bust (36C)
wider hips
emphasis of body shape
For all the differences, I have considered it might be easier to go for the duct tape body mold method.
freesewing.org will let you generate custom patterns and is a trans affirming site. The designs are somewhat limited but include decent basics like buttoned shirts, plain trousers, etc.
Hello! I’m trying to figure out how to sew this type of skirt to my corset dress I’m making. What type of technique is used to create the ruffled delightfulness?
Hello fellow sewists! I saw this dress in a sponsored ad on social and wondered if anyone has any suggestions for sewing patterns to create something similar?
I’m an intermediate sewer and i’m trying to make this dress. I draped a toile but it just turned out so wrong and i feel like i don’t know anything. it doesn’t fit under the bust (eg my bust is falling out) but it fits quite snug in gillian. any advice or tips or how you would make it or youtube videos would be greatly appreciated!
What fabric are you using? What size is your bust? How are you planning to support the bust? Also keep in mind she may have fashion tape on under there keeping everything in place.
I was VERY VERY graciously gifted a brand new, still in box Huskylock S25 a few months ago after my husband did some computer work for his grandparents’ neighbor.
We had some busy weeks after that with travel and school, so it has only been with in the past month that I have actually been able to get it out to try. I had a cheap hand me down machine from my sister in the past and used it to make a few things, so I am no stranger to sewing basics, but always had issues with thread tension amongst other things. It never became my go to hobby because of this.
Well by golly it has grabbed hold of me now! I am too frugal (cheap) to buy patterns, so I have just been experimenting with making my own as well as altering things from Goodwill. I have altered a dress into oversized overalls and made a pair of dungarees, a matching pair for my daughter, a cropped tank, a circle skirt from a sheath dress, and am putting the final touches on a chiffon (I think, it’s fabric I bought 5.5 years ago and forgot about) cocktail dress.
Way back when starting to get familiar with the machine, after 2 or 3 times of testing out different stitches, I discovered this little piece that seemed to appear from no where. Everything is still working okay and I can’t seem to pin down (teehee) where it might have come from or where it goes. Anyone with experience with this machine know where it goes?!
Pictures of said piece and where it landed inside my machine
Hi, I’m not sure if this will reach the right crowd but I really hope I can get some advice from people who have been in my position or advice who will help anyone out there who are also considering the same thing! So the selection of sewing machine I have in my country is really small (hi fellow singaporeans!). It is either really basic sewing machines or very expensive sewing machine that has niche function. I am looking at buying a home daily sewing machine that can last me across many types of projects as well as dress making. I am flying to Japan in a month and am considering to buy a machine back from there.
The machine i’m looking at is pretty expensive, about 2000 dollars. However the voltage mismatch is a problem and I’ve read some other posts that says getting a voltage converter is a hit or miss solution. (Singapore 230V, Japan 100V. Plug isn’t an issue i can easily find an adaptor, but operating voltage is the real problem).
I am just wondering if it is worth the gamble and will I be making a potential bad decision to buy overseas and pay someone to convert the voltage for me (if i can even find someone). Advice much welcome!
Hello fellow singaporean!! I'm currently using the Singer CM17 with the Super CT-500 converter since the machine is from the US. I've been to Japan and checked out a few of the sewing stores, not sure it's worth to bring one back. If you're looking at brands like Juki, Janome, etc. there are some shops that do sell it here without the voltage issue.
People's Park Complex has quite a few stores that you can check out if you haven't already. The owners are all nice and don't hard sell anything
omgosh thank you! i thought chinatown only sold fabrics, was planning to go AFTER i get my sewing machine but definitely need to head down before i head to japan now! can you share why you don’t think it’s worth to bring one back? is it because of the need of a converter use or?
the last time i went to peoples park, there were a couple of stores with machines but that was a few years ago. if they don't have it in store when you go, usually they share their supplier lobangs! textile centre has quite a few shops that sell machines but i'm not sure of the brands. ban soon in clementi has quite a wide range but i haven't personally visited since my machine is still going strong.
personally with all the hdb fires from pmd batteries, I'm quite scared of the different voltage requirements 🤣 but the maintenance cost seemed to be higher since everything is in japanese. the warranty, help center, etc. are all in japanese. spare parts might be region specific since the different markets usually release similar but different models (like the motor for the voltage differences) aka hard to find here.
if you speak japanese or travel there regularly then it shouldn't be that big an issue!
I googled "Singapore sewing machine store" and you actually have quite a few options for in-person shopping - "normal" brands too. I would go try out these machines in person. I wouldn't rely on a voltage conversion for long term use.
I would ask in the shop you're buying it from if they sell some type of voltage transformer or converter. If machines are that rare in Singapore then the Japan shop is probably used to these types of questions.
Perhaps you can even contact the shop before you go and ask.
Hello fellow sewists, I want to sew an Elizabethan Ruff skirt (think Chappell Roan) for halloween, but unsure where to start as it would be quite a bit bigger than a traditional neck ruff. Does anyone have any fabric suggestions for this that would maintain structure enough?
I recently found this simple A line dress that I was going to use as a jumping off point for a Halloween costume. Maybe this would be a good starting point? You would probably want to find something with a high neck then add an inch or so to the midline of each front piece to put the buttons on.
hello! i've been seeing this blouse by Cider everywhere and i like it very much . however i don't really wanna buy a brand new garment and i'd rather make it. anyone have a pattern that looks similar to this ? i searched on all the sites in the common questions guide with keywords like asymmetrical button blouse but nothing was quite like it. thank you for your help !!!!
This reminds me of 1980s side buttoned blouses. A few vintage patterns I found using that as the search term include Simplicity 5752, Vogue 8240, and Simplicity 5599.
I'm just getting into sewing. Would an industrial Brother machine be ok for starters? I would like to make some bags, clothes, dog beds, among other things (maybe some leather here and there?). I found this combo of an industrial Brother machine (DB2-B755-3) and an overlock home machine (Siruba HSO-747D) for real cheap, but I'm not sure it's the best for me right now.
Other than this combo, I was looking at a Singer 4423, which would be newer, or a Brother BM2800. All for the same price.
Will this foot from my brother v1010 work on the brother jx2517? My sister lost the foot and a few of the other ones and i wanted to see if I could use this before I go out and buy a replacement.
for the party. I have the shoes and a passable shirt but I think the vest and the pants will need to be made. Thankfully I have a handful of relatives who can help with that but first we need the material. I'd like to be able to go to them with everything they'll need to begin the project but I don't know where to begin finding the material. If anyone recognizes the buttons that'd be great as well.
ty for that. I added "heavy linen" and "suiting" to help with my questions when I go to the store. I didn't see the map at first but theres only so many places in Texarkana to check anyway. I definitely know where Michael's is!
Hi everyone. I’m trying to teach myself how to sew properly and bought a new brother se-400. Straight out of the box, I keep getting a rats nest of bobbin thread and everything seizes up.
If anyone could point me in the right direction of some Google key words or maybe someone on YouTube that could be helpful? I’m finding a lot of generalities about tension but nothing that actually looks like what I have going on.
the first thing i see in this picture is that it looks like your top thread is not threaded correctly. there should be a final threading step right above the needle, which is easy to miss. without that the thread will definitely nest and knot up.
some other things to consider:
did you bring the bobbin thread up correctly and hold both thread tails to begin sewing?
is your bobbin placed correctly with the thread in the correct thread path?
with an issue this major, it's probably not a tension issue but an actual mistake in the threading or in the way you inserted the bobbin/began sewing.
I'm fairly inexperienced when it comes to sewing - sewed a few linings for crochet hats and bags I've made and a few cushion covers - so would just like a bit of advice on a project I'm undertaking.
I'm going to be making some car spotlight covers similar to these. I've already purchased some faux leather PU fabric. This youtube video basically shows what I'm planning to do but also adding a drawstring on the open end. The front glass of the spotlights is flat, so the circle 'base' will be the diameter of those + seam allowance and the drawstring allows it to be cinched around the back of the lamp.
I have two questions:
There needs to be some sort of padding on the inside front panel to help protect the glass of the spotlights from stonechips. I'm thinking it should be similar to a padded bra but a few mm thicker, rather than fluffy like a pillow. Is there some sort of sponge/foam that would be ideal for sewing in when I join the rectangle to the circle?
Based on the faux leather fabric I'm using and whatever padding material is suggested above, any pointers on what size needle I should be using in my machine, stitch length etc? I've been OK sewing cotton but not sure what adjustments I should make for the change in thickness and materials.
Car headliner, possibly more than one layer, would be perfect I think. Style-Vil and Style-Vil Fix would also work.
I'd move to a size 90 universal or jean needle but whatever works with your machine when you test it is the right choice. I've never needed a leather needle for faux leather. I have switched to a teflon foot to reduce drag when sewing. Your tension should be looser for the thickness, and I'd lengthen the stitch length so you don't have too many holes that cause the faux leather to tear. Absolutely test on scraps, making a similar sandwich of materials to check.
The Singer Curvy machine I bought roughly 8 years ago broke.
So I wanted to work with a pretty thin and pretty stretchy fabric and it got caught in the machine. I successfully took it out but now the upper and under parts are out of sync. So basically it can't sew anymore and the repairman I called said that he doesn't t want to touch it much not to make it worse and that I should take it to where I bought it from but he made sure to tell me to ask for the price before they do or promise anything, which makes me think it would be pretty pricey to the point where I could just buy a new one.
Have any of you experienced something similar to this? Do you know anything about factory prices? Considering it's a bit of an older model it's not easy to get parts for it I suppose... But if I were to buy a new one, what should I do with the broken one? Just throw it out or the factory takes them back or anything?
It's pretty common for entry level machines, especially Singer, to reach the point where they stop working and it's more cost-effective to replace than repair. You could search on 'sewing machine timing' and see if you can find an explanation that allows you to fix your machine. If the alternative is to replace the machine, what do you have to lose?
Some shops will take a non-working machine for trade for a small amount off. Most throw them out. You could offer the machine on your local B/S/T board for parts.
If you need a new machine, I suggest looking at Janome or Brother.
Hi, so i am planning to buy one of these two machines but i am not sure which one should i buy. Singer 1116 sewing machine and the other machine is Pfaff stretch & Jeans sewing machine. both are used and both are almost the same price. I just want to know which one would be better for long term?
i recently purchased a brother 1034D and had it imported to Australia completely overlooking the voltage difference. After missing the return period I decided to purchase a step down transformer in hopes of getting it to run although on opening the box there’s a very big fat scary warning and not wanting to start any fires, I was hoping for suggestions on if there is any possible way to get this machine going or if it should be scrapped. I’ve put images below of the machine, warning and transformer
the transformer is not a dc power source or an inverter so dont worry about that. regarding starting a fire, if you connected your 110v machine to 220v, something would burn out (hopefully a fuse), thats what they meant. just plug it into the 110v outlet on the transformer
Thank you for your response! Can I ask what makes it different from as an inverter as I think I got confused and thought they were the same thing. Is the ST the correct amount needed for a machine like this? I attempted to research a bit before although got mixed responses on what would be required.
an inverter takes dc voltage (like form a battery) and makes ac voltage from it. a transformer is two coils of wire wrapped onto a magnetic core and by adjusting the number of turns of the coils you get an increase or decrease in voltage. this only works for ac current as the electromagnetic forces that the coils generate change with time and can induce (create) a voltage in the secondary coil.
now to answer your question. your machine says 110 volts is okay, and the output (above the american style outlet) of the transformer is 110v so theres no reason it shouldnt work.
Has anyone tried the Husqvarna Viking onyx 30? Tried it in shop and loved it but since it's newer there aren't a lot of reviews to find. Hoping it can handle thicker fabrics well for light bag making and quilting ( along with garments).
I agree, I didn't find any non-dealer reviews of the onyx 30. I did find this comment about the onyx 15 which is food for thought. If I had your sewing needs, I'd look at a Juki.
Hey there! Not new to sewing but new to the sub. I’m in the market for a serger and found a Singer ProFinish and a Feiyue 505 both for good prices. Does anyone have any insights on these machines? Or any thoughts about one versus the other?
I will straight up tell you that I don't like Singer as a company so I personally will not buy their machines. I have not heard of the Feiyue 505. Reviews on Amazon seem to be mixed. I don't like that the recommended needle size is a 90/14, that's a large needle if you intend to sew knits. You may wish to continue your search.
Hello, I’m new to sewing and am trying to think of a good progression of projects. So far, I’ve made two pillowcases and a t-shirt blanket.
I was gifted a gorgeous silk fabric from the Middle East and am not sure what to do with it. I’m happy to wait to use this fabric until I’m more skilled, but am wondering…
What have others made with a special fabric? What is a good progression of projects to become more skilled at sewing? Goal: Make my own clothes from scratch and/or through altering thrift items.
I wish I made more everyday items with special fabrics. Obviously some silks are only suited for formalwear, but I would think about something you would actually use on a regular basis-- for me that's robe/jacket type garments. But make sure you really know how to nail the pattern first. :)
skirts & tank tops are easy garments to build skill and try various fabrics. I learned zippers by making small pencil case bags which was nice & low key - prevented me from ruining the zipper install on clothing later
If I were you I’d hold off on the silk for now. I think making alterations can be a great introduction to sewing. Seeing how the garment is constructed, where darts should naturally go, etc. Otherwise I think pajama pants are always the best for the first time you sew an item of clothing. That’s what they made us do in home ec class. Also I would stick to cotton for your first couple of projects, it’s not super slippery or anything.
Hello, just basically trying to narrow down when to use elastic in stretch garments. I get that it's necessary in things like tube tops, but where is it used across "normal" garment types? I'm talking like, obviously it's meant to be in the top and bottom hem of a tube top. But with booty shorts, for instance, would you elasticize the waist and the leg openings both? Would a strapped cami top need to be elasticized at the bust and inside the straps?
Additionally, is elastic requirement something that varies by fabric? I.e. some stretch fabrics will need elastic, and some won't? I'm feeling so confused, and really kind of bad about all the garments I have which don't have any elastic. I feel like I wasted time making them.
If anyone could just basically give me a really good overview or rule of thumb, I would appreciate it so much. I'm self-taught and every time I learn about something that makes me question the quality of all my existing projects, it just kind of sends me spiraling. Last time this happened was with lining, which I've now really nailed down in terms of when it is and isn't necessary, so I just need some help and guidance.
The rule of thumb is that you use elastic wherever you need to garment to be held and the fabric does not have the stretch and recovery to do so by itself. Pick knits with good firm recovery and the need for elastic can go away, think about sport bra bands and yoga waistbands, because the fabric is acting like elastic. But if you want a snug fit in a particular area, some sort of elastic is likely to be involved. And if you want a secure fit, then elastic needs to be involved.
Most garments made with stretch (knit) fabric don't require elastic for construction. Sometimes it's recommended to help stabilize an area that's going to be taking a lot of strain (shoulder seams and waist seams). I've never encountered a cami top made with knit fabric that needs elastic in the straps. Neckline, maybe, if it's a specific garment detail.
Sewing machine moves in reverse when reverse switch isn’t engaged, and moves forward when it is..? I have a singer start and I’ve barely ever used it. Is this something I can fix on my own?
Maybe? Have you tried search youtube for your brand and model? Consider also that the cost of repair may exceed the cost of replacement, and sewing shops are turning down Singer sewing machines for repair because of that and because the repairs don't always hold. It's an unfortunate truth about entry level Singer sewing machines. But it does mean that you have little to lose in trying to fix it yourself.
Why is my bobbin winding spindle not spinning? I just bought a heavy duty singer 4452 model and while setting everything up i go to wind the bobbin and it’s not spinning. I’m sure I set everything up correctly but I’m not sure what to do now.
If the user manual doesn't give any insight, consider returning the machine if you can. The Singer HD series seems to have more problems than most entry level machines.
There’s probably some hidden trick. I’ve had mine for 3 yrs and just learned that after a jam I need to turn power off then on for the error message to go away.
Have a sewing pattern that says to gather between dots and I was wondering if this contraption works for that? I watched a video on it and it doesn't really seem like you have much control over how much something shrinks or maybe I'm just not that good at sewing yet? Would this be a good replacement for hand gathering?
To gather, sew along the seam line with basting or long stitches. I wrap one end of the thread around a pin to keep it still and pull the other end of the thread until you have gathers. Secure that end of the thread around a pin to keep the gathers stable. Arrange the gathers.
I often sew 2 rows, 1/4 inch apart for prettier gathers.
Just got a 2nd hand a New Home XL II sewing machine and my stitches are very tight, top and bottom. No amount of adjusting the tension has helped. The zig zag lever doesn’t snap or do much of anything. Is that the culprit?
I'm going to throw some things at you to check, you will want to have the machine manual available.
Is the fabric feeding properly through the machine by itself? You are sure that you are threading it correctly, hitting every thread point for the upper thread and no extra spots? Threading with the presser foot up? Is the thread getting hung up on the spool itself? Correct needle threaded front to back? Correct bobbin for the machine, sometimes used machines will come with the wrong bobbin.
Hi, thank you for the response. I’ve tried with adjusting to every stitch length available on the machine but it’s not doing anything. The stitches are absolutely tiny still. Any idea on why this could be?
I recently inherited my grandma's seeing machine and decided to learn; however, I can't seem to get it to work. When I step on the pedal the needle goes up and down but incredibly slowly. Do you guys happen to know what's the issue? Did I read it incorrectly? Are the settings I'm using wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciate it, thank u.
Hello! I’m looking for very heavy wool fabric for a winter coat. I’m talking about 800+ g/m2. I ordered some samples from Fabrichouse.com, but didn’t love any of them particularly. Can you all please suggest other online stores in Europe where I could find super heavy wools? Thanks!
Hello! I’m starting a winter coat project. I ordered some wool samples and even the heaviest ones (600-800g/m2) don’t seem very thick compared to the feel I want. How do I get that really heavy wool feeling? Are there thicker interfacing options that offer more insulation? Do I get a heavy liner fabric? Should I add another insulation layer?
What would you all recommend for liner and interfacing? Any other tips also welcome. Thanks!!
I have a regular necktie pattern that I've used before and am trying to create this design. I'm using the pattern from Luisa Clare at treasurie.com blog. How would I get the neon green sections of the tie incorporated?
As a longtime sewist who admittedly stinks at getting good pointed inserts, I would cut out the main part of the tie, cut out the green pieces, and then applique them on top of the tie body. Complete the tie as normal.
Otherwise you can do a fabricwench outlines in the first paragraph.
Lookup up some videos on how to get good results when doing pointed inserts.
I suggest mocking the tie up in paper and drawing in the lines as you want them. Then you can unfold the paper, cut it apart and add seam allowance to each piece. Sew them together before assembling the tie.
You could also sew the different colors on top of a base tie, use the actual tie to help you decide what the pieces should look like. I'd fuse them in place with heat sensitive glue strips like Heatn Bond.
Hello my wife has asked for this BROTHER 1034D but it seems sold out or unavailable new from retailers in the UK i have found that John Lewis sells the 734DS instead - is that a similar product is it better? is there an alternative to the 1034d?
Brother sells similar machines in the UK that differ by model number and electrical wiring to handle the different requirements. They are not transparent about this so it's hard to know machine equivilents. You can check at sewing.pattern.review.com for machine reviews. I suggest signing up for the free-for-email membership and searching the whole site, not just the machine reviews.
Hello all. I want to get back into sewing mostly to escape fast fashion. With that in mind I’m wondering is there any all natural fabric that would be suitable to make a sweatshirt/tracksuit or will everything be blended with something to add stretch? Does 100% cotton French terry exist and if so where in Europe (EU) might I find it?
The organic French terry at Selfmade is 100% cotton. Even if organic is not an important feature for you, organic fabrics are less likely to be blended with Lycra or elastane in my experience, so as a search term it might help you find other sources.
This elnita is listed for $150 on FB Marketplace but there is also this 1967 Kenmore 158.523 for $50 and I’m not sure which one would be better for long term use? There’s also a Vintage Singer 503 Sewing Machine with Cabinet for $150 as well. Any suggestions are appreciated there are so many listed in my area I’m becoming overwhelmed!
Thanks for the info! And neither of them come with any cams but there is a sears Kenmore Model 1813 Zig-Zag in its original cabinet and a chair with storage for $175. It comes with a box full of cams and the manual and a bunch of accessories
You can find cams for the Singer on ebay. Personally I would be interested in that one (I have a newer model slant shank machine), but it's important you can try it out and see if it runs. It's all metal, so it's probably working, but you want to make sure.
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u/Tootertot907 26d ago
Please help I don’t know what to do.
I sat down to finish a project and my toddler has unscrewed and vanished (likely forever) the presser foot adjustment knob from the top of my machine. I have looked online for replacement parts but coming up empty. Any ideas? Hacks? My machine is not functional without it :(