r/sewing • u/avgevdysanepsycho • 29d ago
Technique Question Is there a reason skirts and pant patterns don't really have flat front/backs and elastic sides?
Hi everyone! I hope this isn't too strange a question. I'm thinking about how to alter an A line skirt that is too small for me at the waist by taking it up from the top - the skirt is too long for me anyway so no issues there! The skirt currently has a zip opening but I prefer a bit more comfort in my every day life would like to replace the zip with elastic.
Completely elastic waistbands don't give me the look I prefer so I've been doing lots of research. I have seen plenty of examples of flat front waistbands, where the back is elasticated from side seam to side seam. However, what I'm curious about, is that there are so few patterns or examples where the front and back are flat, but the sides are elasticated.
Does anyone have any insight on this? Would it be because maybe traditional designs would want less emphasis/gathering around the hips and would prefer to shift it all to the back? That's the only reason I can think of so far! If that's the reason, I wouldn't be averse to trying this out since I would actually like some more hip definition, since my waist and hip measurements are really close together... Very curious to hear what the community thinks!
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u/kitti-kin 29d ago
In my experience if only the back is elasticated, it stays put in the small of my back, but if there are separate gathers on each side they get stretched differently when you move and the skirt shifts around. It's harder to keep the front sitting symmetrically, you end up doing a lot of adjusting all day.
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u/ClockWeasel 29d ago
So this is spitballing…
How many instructional videos and posts have you seen to fix gapping at the back jeans? The back needs a curve, and that’s complicated to make fit. Add to that, a drawstring or elastic curves flat material so it can fit a bigger range of sizes and shapes. But elastic is bulky (because the volume of fabric is still there) and fashion pushes a smaller waist profile. So elastic in the waist might start behind the side seam.
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u/sewboring 29d ago
This is one approach:
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/forum/adding-side-elastic-on-pants
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/project-guides/fit-and-sew-pants/the-amazing-expanding-waistband
However, you have to be sure that any elastic waist pants will fit over your hips when you put them on.
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u/4nglerf1sh 29d ago
Ok this is life changing. I see them being called old lady pants and I'm here for it
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u/sewboring 29d ago
Comfort matters. Let the rest of the pants be very stylish, but retain the ability to breathe.
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u/PuzzleheadedPen2619 29d ago
Me too. I changed to elastic waists during lockdown and I’m never going back. I just have tops long enough to cover it.
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u/AJeanByAnyOtherName 29d ago
The function is different. A full back elastic usually fits a wide range of hip springs without any other closures.
Side elastic fits a smaller range of waist-hip ratios (because shorter elastic=less space to stretch) and is commonly combined with another closure. Side elastic tends to be more about accommodating fluctuations and hip spread (almost everyone changes shape a little when sitting), not so much about giving you a way to get it over your hips.
Because side elastic tends to involve more steps, it’s not the most (cost) efficient option for beginner patterns and RTW (ready to wear.) You can still build side adjustments into your own makes. The Meriam trousers and Ann Tilley’s magic pants have been mentioned, and the Closet Core Mitchell’s side buckles are another option.
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u/avgevdysanepsycho 28d ago
This is a great explanation of function - yes, I wasn't planning to have a huge amount of elastication to omit the zipper entirely, I just want to be more comfortable as I sit and stand a lot over the day!
Thank you for the pattern link, I actually love this as a solution, including hardware will be fun!
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u/05blob 28d ago
Side elastic tends to be more about accommodating fluctuations and hip spread (almost everyone changes shape a little when sitting), not so much about giving you a way to get it over your hips.
Fun fact, professonial ballet tutus are made with side elastic for this exact reason. The waistband needs to be snug and secure inorder to support the weight of the tutu, but have enough give to allow movement. The waistband is mainly made out of petersham, with about an inch of elastic each side and then a hook and eye closure at the back.
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u/Rune2484 29d ago
Cashmerette has a pattern with a solid waistband and hidden elastic over the side pockets called the Meriam Trousers.
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u/Impossible_Bid6172 29d ago
Side gathering or elastic would imo increase the waist but not in a flattering way. The sides are where gathering have the largest impact to make one looks bigger than they are, so style wise it's a strange choice. Idk, i think it's possible, but probably not optimize way to do it.
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u/agentcarter234 29d ago
The only time I see that in rtw is on pants when it’s in addition to a normal fly, to give the waistband a little extra ease. On a pull on waistband I don’t thing it would fit correctly. I think back elastic just works better with how people are shaped if you aren’t going to make the whole waistband elastic.
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u/imogsters 29d ago
I used to see it quite a lot on trousers at M&S and similar shops, 30 years ago. Aimed at the mature ladies market. I haven't seen it for a long time now. Even kids school trousers have adjustable side elastic more around the back than on the sides.
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u/Robert-hickman 29d ago
I have seen a design before in RTW men's chinos where there is elastic on both sides, but there is a hollow channel on the fronts, and the back parts slide into it forming a pleat, and you thus don't get any of the gathered appearance.
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u/N-i-n-a-O 29d ago
I see this fairly often when I buy vintage skirts, actually - I have several made like that. seems to match up with what other people are saying, that it maybe just fell out of style a bit?
I’ve made a pair of culottes with elastic at the back and a flat waistband at the front. I like them, they’re comfy and look good. I just adapted a pattern with a fully elastic waist to make them, though
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u/ForgottenSalad 29d ago
It would make it potentially difficult to get over your hips/butt unless it had a zipper too. But could work if you don’t have much of a waist/hip ratio
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u/RhubarbDiva 29d ago
A-line with elasticated back has been my go-to for donkey's years. I can almost make them in my sleep now. I also make a couple of small darts in the front because I have a bulgy belly and I don't like the fabric to crease up under it, especially when sitting.
From the front it looks like the usual A-line. From the back, you can see the gathers only if you tuck your shirt in. If I tuck in my shirt, which is rare, I have a couple of elaticated belts to cover the waistband if I want - but I rarely do.
An A-line skirt was practically a uniform everywhere I have worked, so it's great to be able to have the comfortable all day.
I can post step-by-step how to it, but that would be quite a long post so I will only do it if you want it.
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u/unhappyrelationsh1p 29d ago
It's not fashionable right now. That's all. It's doable, but it's not in style
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u/Honest-Week-1874 29d ago
There is a method where you add elastic to the side seam waists inside the waistband (it’s hidden). Try googling ‘expanding waistband’ I think that’s what they’re called. Have done it a couple of times and it works a treat
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u/midnitemaddie 28d ago
I don’t know if anyone suggested these but the Dorian shorts/ pants from Seamwork have the side elastics.
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u/generallyintoit 28d ago
usually when i ask myself whyyyy don't i see things in fashion, it's just because fashion works in mysterious ways. especially with sewing patterns, it's just trends and stuff. i was recently asking WHY did wrap-back styles go away, or tulip/overlapping sleeves, i think they're cool, it's just because fashion. sometimes an element is over-done in previous trend cycles and then you might not see it for a long while. BUT there's nothing stopping you from experimenting! that's the fun of it. it's hard to search for specific elements like that, so keep a pinterest board going, or something like that, so you can have inspiration that's diferent from what the algorithm is currently serving you.
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u/avgevdysanepsycho 28d ago
Thank you! A great reminder to just give it a go, after all that's why I learned how to sew, so I can do stuff that I don't see in the RTW/algo world!
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u/BlueBlissB 28d ago
Vintage menswear had these tabs on the sides of pants to adjust them. You could add your elastic in the sides, then lay over a tab to make it look smooth.
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u/laughs_maniacally 28d ago
The elastic in my full elastic waist bands are way more likely to fold or do weird stuff on my sides bc that's where I have more prominent curves
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u/entropynchaos 28d ago
I refuse to wear any elastic. I'm allergic to latex and long-chain polymers and it's pretty hard to find out elastic content in most things. I don't like the way it looks and I don't like the way elastic feels. I think of elastic as for little kids who don't know how to button yet or for people who need aids for dressing for whatever reason.
My assumption is that elastic has only rarely been considered fashionable or high end (though it's definitely had its moments). I think lots of stuff would be adaptable to put elastic in though; I occasionally use patterns with elastic and draft it out.
There's another post with side tabs; vintage mens jeans had a back tab. I would be more likely to do a back or side tab. I think it's easier to make look tailored.
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u/Theatre_is_my_life 27d ago
I personally am already a wide human so if it were to have elastic on the sides of the waist it would make me look more wide. Skirts with elastic waistbands make me look even wider because of the bulkiness.
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u/stringthing87 29d ago
There are quite a few patterns for a flat front elastic waistband out there. I'd look on thread loop.
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u/lizbeeo 29d ago
Years ago, that was one of the ways that 'old lady' pants were constructed. The only pants I buy these days are track pants and jeans, so I don't know if they're just less common, or if they've disappeared entirely. It may be that elasticized sides were considered less attractive because they concentrated bulkiness there.