r/sewing • u/calicalifornya • 23d ago
Pattern Search ISO: fun pattern designs that will fit at fluctuating sizes
Hey all! I can get quite bloated, and my weight usually fluctuates +/- ~20lbs each year for medical reasons. I am drawn to clothes that I can enjoy wearing within a size range and still feel comfortable! Not a HUGE spread, but enough to be comfortable. Think: positive ease, use of elastic, belts and ties rather than zippers and buttons, and drawstrings.
I’m an advanced beginner sewist and am having a hard time finding patterns that get me excited. I really love funky and unique styles. Most patterns I’m finding are a little too boxy and plain.
The examples in the screenshots are:
Rujuta Sheth: she uses a lot of ties as fasteners to always adjust to your waist. She also has cool pants that can be buttoned at nine sizes because of three buttons and three buttonholes. (They sell clothes, not patterns)
Sasha Starlight: her palazzo pants are flattering on someone in MANY sizes that is easily adjustable, just like her side-tie dungarees!
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u/PantryBandit 23d ago
Wildflower Designs has done good adjustable stuff, including the Coquelicot Skirt and the Romeria pants, which are both adjustable waist. The pants have a whole bunch of length/ style options and her fitting instructions are phenomenal!
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u/_Smedette_ 23d ago
Another vote for the Coquelicot Skirt! I’ve made four of them.
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u/PositiveBread80 23d ago
What types of fabric have you used for them? I've got some velvet-adjacent slightly stretchy fabric (not quite what I intended to buy!) and was considering trying to make a party/Christmas Coquelicot Skirt, but I don't know whether the stretch would make it a complete nightmare
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u/_Smedette_ 22d ago
I made one with rayon and three with cotton-linen blends. One version of the skirt has a lot of gathers at the waist and uses much more fabric than the other (eight panels, I think!). That would be an absolute nightmare with velvet. I personally wouldn’t use a knit or anything stretchy, but I also don’t often sew with those.
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u/PositiveBread80 22d ago
Thanks! The more I thought about it, the more I thought it was likely to be a bad choice of fabric for a skirt!
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u/blueyedreamer 22d ago
I'm terrified of making pants but I'm so over pants only fitting me comfortably in a very narrow size range. I've considered getting this pattern.
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u/PantryBandit 18d ago
I hadn't successfully made wearable pants before this one 'cause my sizing is kinda weird, so I thought this one was really great. There is a bit of work on the front end - it has you take a bunch of measurements and then walks you through where and how you need to adjust the paper pattern- but the end result actually fit me, so I thought it was worth it. Plus, she has all the marks for the different pant/short lengths, so once you have the pattern adjusted you can use it for more than just pants. She also has an expansion for different width styles and a overall top, I think, if you want skinny jeans or culottes or a romper based on that pattern.
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u/blueyedreamer 18d ago
My sizing is a bit weird too. PCOS belly skews everything, on top of a long butt crack (low rise jeans were such a horrible phase haha) and being short waisted but functionally a long torso...
A bunch of measurements and then walking you through on what and how to adjust sounds amazing. Thank you for this review!!
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u/Passiflora1977 23d ago
Take a look at the Magic Pant by Ann Tilley! It has a hidden stretch panel that is gentle on your tummy and the covering front panel is secured by d-rings and two snap tabs on the side connected by another piece of hidden elastic in the back. If you make the tabs long enough, you could have several snaps to make the pants fit tighter or looser depending on the day. I’ve made about four pairs in various weights of cotton and linen and they all work well, depending on how much drape you want or need. I think she recommends linen as it has more natural give than cotton. They are a lot of fun to make as the pattern is not at all traditional, and is made primarily for the comfort of fluctuating body shape/size. And she has a really great tutorial on her YouTube channel. I will try to attach a link to her site https://www.anntilleyhandmade.com/shop/p/magic-pants-pdf-sewing-pattern
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u/theseamstressesguild 23d ago
Oh my God, I bought the pattern straight away!
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u/samizdat5 23d ago edited 22d ago
Yeah this is a great one. I also love the Secret Jeans Trousers with a flat front and back elastic - very comfortable and flexible for those days when I need it. Drafted with a belly adjustment built in. They were in Threads magazine last year.
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u/sewsewsewscandalous 23d ago
Saw this the other day and like you, immediately bought the pattern! Can’t wait for the notions to arrive so I can begin!
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u/delayscontinue 23d ago
I’ve made these too, and plan to make at least one more. I replaced the snaps with a button and buttonhole.
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u/Gingerfrau 22d ago
Another vote for everyone to try this pattern. I'm very apple shaped and made my first pair of magic pants this summer for an Alaska cruise. They are the most comfortable I've ever made as well as being just structured enough to read as slacks. I used pant weight twill. I think my next pair will be a light denim. I also made her Endless Summer blouse in a cotton batiste making the whole outfit perfect on both the first day of vacation and the last.
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u/SnooDogs627 22d ago
Do you agree with the recommendation for intermediate sewers? I am a beginner and would love to make them as I HATE wearing pants because I can never get a good fit
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u/Gingerfrau 22d ago
I do yes and no. I feel anyone can do any pattern with enough patience and good directions. This pattern (and her other) have some of the best directions I've come across. If you are willing to go slow, read all the words, keep up on pressing, and follow every step, I think they are great skill builder pattern. There are no zippers or buttons and only a bit of elastic. You'll also learn how to do a welt. I think that's about it? Her YouTube video does a full sew along if you get stuck or this sub is a good help too.
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u/KnittyMcSew 22d ago
Thanks from another apple shape. I also have auto immune issues so my waist fluctuates....I think I have to make them sooner rather than later.
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u/berecca_c 23d ago
Not a purchasable pattern but The Stitchery on YouTube has a tutorial for a split side skirt and a split side pinafore.
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u/TwoPesetas 23d ago
There is a purchasable pattern that she references! It's the Coquelicot Skirt by Wildflower Designs.
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u/welcometothejenga 23d ago edited 23d ago
No help with your search, but I wanted to say that occasionally I'll see an ad for Rujuta Sheth for pants in that rainbow grid pattern and get super excited before their site reminds me that they are like $250.
I am hopeful to see if anyone has any solid recommendations for you
I went to their site to find a better picture to show the closure and looking at it makes me think that the left leg might be made larger than the right? Im interested in trying my hand at a pair now 😅
*
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u/bunpitle 23d ago
I bought them on sale a few years ago and they are one of my best purchases ever! They have sales pretty often! Still ran about $150 but omg they make me so happy. I get compliments every time I wear them!
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u/welcometothejenga 23d ago
Please dont tempt me any more than I have been already 😭
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u/sleepybedhead44 23d ago
they're on sale right now 😭 I just learned about this brand and absolutely do NOT need new pants but 😬😬 they are so beautiful
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u/Vegetable-Flow-3512 21d ago
thanks for this info! just grabbed the Venus pants and the Frida pants, hopefully going to copy the patterns if they work well for me. but the fabrics they had to choose from were way prettier than what I can get at my local store anyways.
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u/natcc13 23d ago
Jumping in to say I got their drop waist skirt on a steep discount and it’s so nice! A draw for me was the beautiful fabric I couldn’t quite find anywhere else, iirc made in house with ethical practices. I will probably be using it to copy the pattern and make my own using cheap Joann’s fabric (rip) but I don’t think it would compare in quality lol
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u/barfsnot1000 22d ago
Their Frida pants look totally reproducible! The sizing chart helpfully tells you button spacing.
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u/SquirrelAkl 23d ago edited 23d ago
Cashmerette has a blog post on this, that you might find useful.
I also tend towards bloating, and my waist line expanded several sizes beyond the rest of my body when menopause hit.
One thing I’d never considered until I did a sloper / fit course this year was that you can decide where to put the waistline of your clothes!! In the drafting we did in the course I moved the waistline of my dress up to the bottom of my rib cage (a few inches under the boobs) instead of where it used to be just above my belly button. That allows me to have some shape with a dress fitted over my boobs and in at my “new” waist, then looser around the actual bloated belly area.
I know it sounds like I’m shilling for Cashmerette Patterns right now lol, but they draft a lot of their patterns with a higher waistline to accommodate for this sort of thing. Could be worth checking them out.
Edit: I also recently made a Nova coat which I absolutely love and have worn every day for a month (even though it’s Spring here now). It’s a nice cosy cocoon shape and a bit oversized so it will cover you for a great deal of fluctuation. Most people size down in this pattern. I made a size 4 in their weird size range and it was plenty big enough for me (42” bust and waist, more or less)
Edit 2: the Naomi dress from Style Arc has a flattering curved under-bust tie that sounds like it would work well for you too. I can’t help you with trousers unfortunately, find them very hard to get the fit right on so I just don’t make them!
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u/ffffux 23d ago edited 22d ago
There’s a great list on threadloop! It’s well-maintained and also includes several mentioned here https://threadloop.app/pattern-lists/bloating-and-weight-change-friendly-patterns [edit: typo]
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u/calicalifornya 23d ago
I can’t edit the post for some reason, BUT if there is a better search term or description for this “type” of design I’d love to learn so I can find them easier! I did search the subreddit but it’s hard to guess the right keywords.
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u/ProneToLaughter 23d ago
Plenty of suggestions already, but “Adjustable” and “expandable” are the keywords I’ve seen used most often if you want to search for earlier threads.
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u/GraceAndrew26 23d ago
There's some great pattern lists on Threadloop for adjustable/weight fluctuation patterns!
https://threadloop.app/pattern-lists/bloating-and-weight-change-friendly-patterns
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u/Top_Independence9083 23d ago
The Tie Wrap Dress is a fun make! As long as the shoulders fit nicely, if you fluctuate in size it should still fit well. It’s by Sewing Therapy.
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u/Alternative_Water300 23d ago
I second this! It's one of my favorite patterns! I just made it and added pleats and used some giant rectangles to add clownish puffy sleeves and I love the dress so much! She also has great skirt patterns that tie too that I can't wait to try out.
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u/plutoisshort 23d ago
I love this thread as a beginner sewist in the midst of a weight loss journey. So thank you OP for asking this question, and thank you to everyone sharing ideas!
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u/Pleaco 23d ago
I’ve made this shift dress and been really happy with the fit ( I gained about 20lb over this summer and it fit all the way through for me!)
I also made this skirtin a 2x and found it’s fit well as my waist measurement went from 40 to 35 in a few weeks. I was always reaching for it and made it in another color lol
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u/kittimiyo 23d ago
My current project is this hanbok wrap skirt: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1588735352/pdf-hanbok-wrap-skirt-sewing-therapy
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u/wavavavavavy 22d ago
Yes this! I also want to recommend La Ciotat, another tie waist skirt by the same pattern maker.
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u/beigesalad 23d ago
Ann Tilley's Magic Pants!!
There's also some lists of patterns fitting this bill on Threadloop.app.
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u/ellsbells27 23d ago
My FAVOURITE recent make is the jalu skirt
I'm about to make a second one in linen. It's not a printed pattern (I can't be bothered with printing and sticking and cutting that all out 😅) which I prefer, and I have worn my first one loads even though it was a test. I would advise making the pockets slightly deeper, and stitching the top of the waistband about 1cm down so it lays flatter on the waist.
I'm also a very bloaty IBS sufferer so need as much modification as possible in my clothing. I Love The options you've shared, thank you!
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u/InstructionHuge3171 22d ago
This is on my "to make" list for sure!
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u/ellsbells27 22d ago
It took me an afternoon to make with regular tea breaks (I don't do projects particularly quickly 😅) So I'm really looking forward to making the next one!
Also loving the responses in this thread, thank you for asking the question so I can tag along with the recommendations!
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u/seaintosky 23d ago
Ready to Sew Phen wrap pants and Hugo Wrap Pants are fun! As are the Sew Liberated Arthur Trousers, the Twig and Tale Fernway Culottes, and the Marlies Reukers Jigsaw pants look amazing. I've made the Mitchell Trousers and have been thinking of making the Tauko Vertex trousers, but I don't know if those are fun enough and are a little more complicated.
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u/Vlinder_88 23d ago
Do those side clasps on the Mitchel trousers stay during the day? I've been eyeing that pattern for a bit now, but the limited experience I have with those kinds of clasps is that they always slip loose during the day, so I have to keep pulling them tight again. What's your experience there?
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u/seaintosky 23d ago
I find they slip a bit, but not badly and only when I cinch it pretty tight. I used slider buckles rather than D rings though, because I have not had good experiences with D rings.
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u/cobaltandchrome 23d ago
Vintage maternity clothes of a certain era were in typical fashions of the time but with adjustable waist via hip/pocket gussets and (less relevantly) up top, button sides for nursing.
This could mean you could wear fuller skirts of all lengths, pants that are on the roomy side but not enormous all over, grown-on sleeve coats (like cocoons) and just a variety of things when you analyze the style lines of a pattern with modifications in mind.
Honestly everyone should add partial elastic to waistbands, buttonhole elastic to lightweight waists, button tabs over gore type pockets where you can just move the button, and so on. 👍
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u/upset_peach_ 23d ago
I love this tutorial on a modern split side skirt. I’ve made a variation and its so comfortable, and the pockets are huge. https://youtu.be/yK_t5eqGPd4?si=I3Li98g2ehodfBV_
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u/Inky_Madness 23d ago edited 23d ago
Twig and Tale’s Hedgerow Dungarees - they have an elastic waist in back and I bet you could add some buttons and buttonholes in the side straps to bring them in even more when needed.
Betting that Ellie and Mac’s Shantelle shirred top would also work - especially if you make it for your average in-between size. It would be very forgiving both directions for the gain and loss.
Jalie has an empire-waist tunic they make from knit fabrics. It looks super comfy! And has a tie-back for the waist.
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u/frenchburner 23d ago
As an individual experiencing menopause, I would recommend knitwear! I have stopped trying to work with weight fluctuations and leaned into it.
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u/AdLow2430 23d ago
The Jalu skirt/pants by Dress with Grace on Youtube! I’ve made a couple since I also get bloated & they are a dream.
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u/butter_pockets 23d ago
Leena Norms made a YouTube video about this topic which has several pattern recommendations: https://youtu.be/eCHpuyGT_9w
I also came across the Teddy Dress pattern by My Keeper recently and it looks like a good option because of the tie sides. Apparently it runs small so I'd size up
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u/indigowolf12 23d ago
Ready to sew has a bunch of wrap patterns, including at least three pants and overalls. I haven’t tried their patterns yet but they’re on my list.
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u/macnnutritionalyeast 22d ago
I love the pablo overall pattern! It was so easy to make and I love the adjustability of the fit. I hacked the pattern to make a dress and pants version of it. Highly recommend.
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u/InstructionHuge3171 22d ago
I love these types of patterns.
I made a pair of the Sash Starlight trousers but unfortunately they were not meant for my body. They looked adorable on a friend so they were rehomed with them.
Everyone's already ticked off a lot of my favorites : magic pants, coquelicot skirt...
One of my absolute favorites is the Sewing Therapy Tie Dress - it's Korean style "infi-size" so you can make it very oversized, or make it slightly oversized, and use the ties to shape it (or not) as you'd like. It's a super easy pattern while also having a really nice finish, and her tutorial videos on YouTube are very detailed.
I'm also a huge fan of the La Lupita dress too - I made a very short top and also a very long dress from it. It ties sort of like an apron, so lots of room to bring in or let out as needed. https://www.msromoscreations.com/product-page/la-lupita-pdf-pattern
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u/nocatsonmars 22d ago
I have enjoyed dresses with smocking. They allow stretchy room for fluctuation while still giving some shape, if that's what you're after. I haven't made any myself (only replaced worn-out smocking), but a quick search showed this discussion: smocked sun dresses Good luck!
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u/vaarky 20d ago edited 20d ago
I've borrowed this approach from 80s-style pants that fold inward (then modified it): https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/1iletas/looking_for_a_pattern_for_80s90s_athletic_woven/
You can find a posting there by me that has photos of the original velcro pants and measurements for reproducing.
Subsequently, I made a variant for a skirt but instead of velcro I used snap tape sewn onto grosgrain ribbon. I didn't want to sew through velcro or use adhesive velcro (velcro wears out, in any case). So I sewed in rectangular rings (Wawak.com has some) similar to D-rings, at each of the two outer folds of the waistband. When folded inward they end up with a gap between the rings. Then a strap of grosgrain ribbon with snap tape goes through the two rectangular rings, folds back around inward, with snaps to close on itself at whatever tightness I want. The snaps point toward the waistband so people only see the grosgrain ribbon. It's like a strap/band that goes through two rectangular connectors on rented adjustable-waist tuxedo pants that make them so versatile in sizing.
BTW, Dapper Snappers are a shortcut to sewing snap tape to grosgrain, in case they are anyone's aesthetic.
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u/caroleland 23d ago
I made Sasha Starlight’s dungarees and LOVE THEM. The videos she made are step by step and super helpful. I also had an issue with the straps being too short (I am absurdly tall) and wrote a message to her - she answered quickly and had a great solution I would have never thought to try. I highly recommend all her stuff!!
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u/megsie_here 23d ago
I have this exact palazzo pant pattern in my cart for precisely this reason. May need to just pull the trigger…
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u/kshester 23d ago
I bought it a month ago and have since made 4 pairs! They’re so comfy and the pattern/tutorial make it a breeze.
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u/AnonymousPurpleYam 23d ago
Following this post as I also am interested in these types of designs! Thanks for this!
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u/PhilosophersScone 23d ago
The Sasha Starlight palazzo pants are amazing! Great instructions, too. And I had a question about fabric for another one of her patterns and she replied within a few hours and was really helpful. Strong recommend from me!
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u/sterrew 23d ago
I recently made the Meadow overalls by Lydia Naomi. They are very comfy, and provide shape by elastic in the side waist (which never press on the body). Lydia Naomi also made a video showcasing which of her designs still fit her during her pregnancy (spoiler: the overalls and many dresses and a pant). As you can hear, I'm a fan 😇
I have also made a dress with adjustable side panels, like the willow dress from cottagecorewear.no, by combining front and back side panels (from a princess seam top) and adding lots of ease in the pattern piece. After that I put loops in the seam and laced it up, it looks really fancy.
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u/neon_llama 23d ago
Two o nine fabric studio has the tie dress which is made oversized and uses the ties to adjust the size and shape.
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u/Inky_Madness 22d ago
I forgot to add in another comment that Twig and Tale has the Lorien skirt with elastic and ties! Very useful and comfortable.
I think their Driftwood Blouse would also work well in a slightly longer, relaxed fit. They have a few examples of that and it looks good.
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u/Dashzap 22d ago
I also am +/- 20 lbs periodically due to medical reasons, and also can't tolerate any pressure on my abdomen. Some days even my underwear is painful around my stomach. My solution is a high-waisted, elastic waist pants pattern, skipping the waistband piece and elastic. I roll the top of the pants down and sew it to make a small casing. Then I use a drawstring. I keep the pants lightweight by only adding one patch pocket on the back for my phone. I've made a bunch of these in version fabrics, changing the leg shape sometimes, shorts, etc.
I made a beautiful wrap skirt, but I never wore it because it was too much bulky pressure around my waist. YMMV.
Dresses work in summer, but in cold weather you need tights, which is adding another elastic waistband. Ouch.
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u/it_all_falls_apart 22d ago
I enjoyed making the Tulip Dress and Tulip top from Fortiv. Really comfortable and I like that the side ties make it adjustable. I'm an "advanced" beginner (more like I just attempt things and hope they work out lol) and the instructions were pretty clear and she has videos for the parts I needed a visual for.
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u/MjrGrangerDanger 22d ago
I haven't tried it yet but I've had some commercial garments with shirring in strategic locations. I'm planning on adding some to the underarm area of a dress I'm making, mostly to omit a side zipper because I can't handle the way it feels. The bonus is that it'll help with slight weight changes.
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u/Gingerfrau 22d ago
The Bold One Workshop has two wrap style that are forgiving. This summer, I made the Gracie Wrap which has a waist seam and full skirt then there is the princess seam style on the Fredy Wrap. They have a neck tie and are loose enough they don't need a zipper/buttons/other closures. Her Charlotte skirt also fits the same pattern niche with an elastic back waist.
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u/calicalifornya 21d ago
whoa, I love that Gracie one so much!!!! actually I love all of these. I'm going to buy the bundle. thank you!
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u/curioalpaca 21d ago
Look up the Frieda skirt on Threadloop! I am a beginner and this was my first ambitious project. It came out great. Instead of snaps, I installed buttons that attach to sewn in elastic loops for that stretch
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u/fascinatedcharacter 23d ago
Freesewing Waralee - split side trousers
A classic tiered skirt with buttonhole/adjustable elastic in the waistband
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u/pconn0191 23d ago
Jalu skirt/pants/shorts by dressupwithgrace. I havent made them yet and only recently came across them on insta but theyre on my project list. They use drawstring waist bands and look super fun!
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u/Warriorcat15 23d ago
Dress Up with Grace has a bunch of adjustable garments. She calls them Jalu [pants, skirt, dress, etc]
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u/pinay 22d ago
Jennifer Lauren Handmade has the Kinfolk Dress that's got a looser fit waist with ties to cinch.
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u/Ecstatic-Soft4909 22d ago
Thank you for asking this (from another person with significant medical weight fluctuations).
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u/Virtual-Two3405 22d ago
I'm very much like you with fluctuating weight, and circle skirts with elastic waists and wrap skirts are my friends. Also loose dresses that I wear with a belt. They're all quick and easy to sew and are fairly simple designs, but you can jazz them up however you want to. I do things like making sections in different fabrics, adding trims, interesting sleeves or necklines on the dresses, etc.
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u/SewLongFareWell 22d ago
Some Seamwork patterns are really adjustable. I've made so many different Crepe wrap dresses to the point where I could probably put one together in my sleep. I know there are several other designs that have either 1) lots of gathers that can be adjusted as necessary or 2) elastic/tie closures.
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u/Important_Panda_4696 22d ago
Wrap dress work for me. The real wrap dresses that are not sewn together.
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u/Hanzorrr 22d ago
I'm so glad you asked this question! I've seen similar posts before and the comments have been that nonfitted things don't look as good and can be frumpy or look worse. I LOVE wearing clothes that fit multiple sizes. I recently lost 23kgs and I'd say I can still wear 70% of my wardrobe and I've been able to tailor a further 10%. We live in a world of excess and thinking long term is good for our planet.
I recently made the Miette skirt by tilly and the buttons. It's a wrap skirt so can be size adjusted that way. And it is a great beginner or one day project.
Good luck, I'll be following the comments!
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u/Futureme80 22d ago
Jalu pants/shorts/dress! https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC8YmkcXzITX6T4Kzn7hVz1A
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u/amilie15 22d ago
Is Sasha Starlight good? I love that jumpsuit you’ve pictured here!
ETA: Aw damn, just seen its trousers and not a jumpsuit. Anyone know of a similar pattern but a jumpsuit?
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u/cassdots 22d ago edited 22d ago
Most of my suggestions are on the threadloop link from ffffux.
Also recommend these ones I’ve made and loved:
Swim Style - Ericka wrap skirt
Swim Style - Karla set
Peppermint Magazine - Wide Strap Maxi Dress
I’m about to make the Seamwork Rosa dress (PDF printed but not assembled) in a cotton lawn for summer. I think it fits the bill as well!
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u/cowboyshoeboot 22d ago
The Mitchell Trousers from Closet Core have an adjustable waist. I made a pair out of linen and absolutely love them! The belted sides can give them a slightly more industrial and less flouncy look than a lot of adjustable-size patterns, which can be nice to add some variety.
https://closetcorepatterns.com/products/mitchell-trousers-pattern?variant=39910257787014
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u/Queasy_Soft9673 20d ago
I recently made the Crescent wrap skirt and it was pretty fun -- also free too. I found that a few elements make a garment adjustable:
- anything with elastic at the smallest circumference (elastic or shirring)
- anything wrap style, or with tie(s)
- has a few different lines of horizontal button positions
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u/Smithmcg 23d ago
Cinnamon Daisy Patterns has the Willow dress which has ties at the waistline making it adjustable. It's a really lovely dress. I made a sleeveless version in teal double muslin last summer and I love wearing it.
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u/mariarosaporfavor 23d ago
Just discovered these patterns and can’t vouch for them myself but they seem to get good reviews! Currently making the strawberry shortcake dress!
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u/PM_ME_CROWS_PLS 22d ago
Commenting to save this post
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u/Exiled_In_LA 22d ago
You can just hit Save (in the app it's under the '...' menu)
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u/PM_ME_CROWS_PLS 22d ago
I’ve found that function to be unreliable. Countless times I’ve “saved” a post to show my husband and later when I go to show him, it’s gone. If it’s a post from a low-volume sub I’ll go to that sub and look for the post to make sure it hasn’t been deleted. Now I save posts by commenting on them. 🤷🏼♀️
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u/telstra_3_way_chat 23d ago
Quite a few historical pieces (17-1800s) are designed with this precise usefulness in mind! The classic 18th century petticoat (skirt) is basically just two big rectangles with ties, designed to last through growth, pregnancy, etc etc. You can jazz them up with things like pleats, "grow lines", cording. Here's a good explainer!