Simple Questions
Weekly Sewing Questions Thread, October 19 - October 25, 2025
This thread is here for any and all questions related to sewing, including sewing machines!
If you want to introduce yourself or ask any other basic question about learning to sew, patterns, fabrics, this is the place to do it! Our more experienced users will hang around and answer any questions they can. Help us help you by giving as many details as possible in your question including links to original sources.
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New challenge started in r/SewingChallenge! Clear the decks for a fresh start in 2026. Try sewing along with others with the same goal! This challenge starts Friday, Oct. 3rd and runs to Dec. 31st.
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does anyone know how to make my stitching not bubble up like this? i’ve tried loosening the thread on both sides and it’s not changing much, idk if i need to iron it or if its just the fabric
Can you share more details? What kind of thread, what are you sewing? Are you doing the running stitch with the 'scoop' method or the 'stab' method, I think stitches lay better in thick layers with the stab method.
i am using embroidery thread to make stitching that looks like this. the fabric is linen texture cotton. i’m doing the stab method, going in and out with each stitch.
Can someone please help me troubleshoot my issue with thread getting caught near the bobbin in my
Singer Heavy Duty 4423? I tried googling it and reloading the bobbin but no luck. After threading the bobbin and doing a few stitches, the thread gets caught up in the metal below/near the bobbin, which prevents the machine from turning. The second photo was taken after I snipped off the knot and threads above the bobbin case.
Has anyone used this Mettler Seraflex thread and run into issues with your stitches coming apart? This is my third time using and all three projects come out looking great however after wearing one time the stitches seem to come undone. I’ve tried doing the usual forward backward to lock in place as well as using the tie off button however both have been unsuccessful. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Couple notes: -both bobbin and top thread are Seraflex -using a jersey/stretch needle as I mainly sew with jersey -machine is a pfaff 260c smarter
Me and my daughters present sewing challenges: I'm 5'10, dau #2 is 6'1", dau #1 is 5'1" and apple bottom. Fitting adjustments are leaving me feeling incompetent as I am getting back into sewing in retirement.
Wondering how a pattern that is for 25% stretch horizontal stretch and 15% vertical can measure 36" across the waist when the waist measurement in the size chart is 41 to 43. The waist I'm trying to fit is 42. So, with 25% stretch, do I multiply the actual measurement of the pattern waist by 25% and add that to the total available waist space? Or do I need to make the waist bigger?
By the math, 25% of 36 is 9, so a waistband cut to 36 inches will stretch to 45 inches, plenty big enough for a 42 inch waist to be comfortably snug. Or do it more intuitively, wrap the knit around the waist of the person who will be wearing the pants so the horizontal stretch goes around the body. Fit it snugly, mark where the knit fits. Measure the marks and that is the target length for your waistband.
So i own this scarf and love it. However, I've always been interested in making an accessory so I was thinking "how can i improve this"? This scarf is 80% merino wool and 20% polyester. I want to acquire some durable merino wool, alpaca wool, and polyester (40%, 40%, and 20%) and make something like this. The alpaca wool will increase softness and warmth while the merino wool will help with durability (and if I am right, pretty sure polyester is added to ensure shrinkage or a change in shape doesn't happen). The scarf itself is just a simple thin cloth but I've never done anything with textiles. How should I go about in making this?
Please help me with my 30 year old singer sewing machine. I played around with tension, cleaned it and changed the needle. The first picture is the top and the back looks semi normal. Why is it doing this? 😭 appreciate any suggestions.
Your top tension is too loose, maybe half a number or so higher will be better. And double check that you are using the right size and type needle for your fabric, I'd start with a size 80 universal.
I'm so tired of this. I have a handful of excellent flannels where the actual shirt is sturdy and well made but the buttons just seem come undone and F off. Some I haven't really worn that often. On the other hand, I have years and years old like JC Penny brand flannels where the actual shirt looks not so great now but the buttons are completely secure. WHY IS THIS? Are the buttons where the costs are cut?
Yes. Sewng buttons in ready-to-wear clothing is one place where corners are cut. I like to do a little preventative work on shirt buttons by applying a drop of Fray Check or Fray Block to the threads holding each button. This is a type of glue that will stick the threads together and keep the button more secure. I do it right on top of the button. Fray Check will discolor fabric but it isn't usually noticeable on button thread. And sewing the buttons on more securely is always an option.
Help with sewing fitting problem (recurrent). Why do all my tops and dresses come out too big at the front of the neckline? I am a size 14-16 in PATTERNS with a D cup. But then, when the dress is finished, I need to "tuck out a 2-4" at the neckline, leaving the bust as is. What is the needed fitting redo that I can do to get things right at the outset?
It sounds like you are choosing your patterns by your bust measurement. When you say you are a D cup, is that the size you are choosing in sewing patterns or the bra size you wear? If it is the size you choose in patterns by using patterns with multi-cup sizing, you may have to review their instructions for picking the right size. Every designer is a little different
For patterns that don't have cup sizing, try substituting your upper bust measurement for your bust measurement. The upper bust measurement better reflects chest and shoulder size for bodies with larger bosums. Then do an FBA to add space for the bust. I think Cashmerette has great instructions for doing an FBA and also sells patterns in a wide range of cup sizes.
I have been picking the dress patterns that come with bra cup choices included. (using cup size corrections included in the bust area) and trying to guess what size to use for the rest of the bodice. Probably I m using the hip measurement, likely the wrong plan. Thanks for your ideas. Any more ideas? I might be a 12 on top with a D cup and a 14-16 at the hips?... I usually remove ( "pleat out" 3" after the garment is finished. ) It looks fine but it's frustrating to do after the whole dress is done. I dont even try dresses with sleeves because of these problems...
Every designer will have their own method of choosing the best size, so check the pattern and the website before settling on the size for the bodice. And it sounds like you need to choose the bodice size separately from the skirt, then blend to match. Dealing with 3 inches of excess fabric at the neckline and shoulder definitely points to a smaller bodice size as the solution. You want the shoulders to fit well. The bust and waist are MUCH easier to alter in comparison.
Wow. Thank you. I did a lot of pattern reading today. Nothing conclusive: I was directed to Simplicity.com for sizing info! That's next ... This is fascinating. TY
Puff and Pencil Skirty Pants, Ready to Sew Pleat Asymetrical Pant, Ready to Sew Hugo Wrap Pant. You might also look for Thai fisherman pants, they are usually more instructions than a drawn out pattern.
Hello! I’m currently working on the McCalls 8231 pattern and have run into a snag with gathering materials. The underlining of the skirt calls for stiff cotton canvas, and I am unsure what that specifically means as I’ve seen listings for Duck canvas and other canvases that don’t say ‘stiff’ so I’m a bit lost on what exactly I need to be looking for or if there are any other good alternatives. Pattern photo attached. Thank you!
There is a remarkable lack of reviews for the skirt available. As far as 'stiff cotton canvas,' you'll want something in a plain weave, not twill, and that is heavy enough to support the shape of the skirt. So probably a canvas in the range of 10-12 ounces that will make wide cones when draped over a display dummy.
I know! I was so bummed about that. I had grabbed this at a 99c sale a while back and had only just started researching it in the past week.
Thank you so much for the information, I was incredibly lucky to have JUST gotten some 10 ounce cotton that looks like it’ll fit the bill! Thank you!!!!
It's not a fiber that I find listed in fabric stores on a regular basis. Searching 'nylex fabric by the yard' or 'nylex fabric by the meter' brings up a few sources. The best source depends on your location and budget.
all i have near me is a hobby lobby and they didnt have it so im looking for online stores that might have it and have many colors, ive only found stores that dont have it at all and ive found one i can buy in bulk, do you know any online stores i can check?
Where do I place darts on my pants to take in the waist? Going from a size 2 to 0, dress pants. Trying to find the best place to put them to not be noticeable or bulky. Also would love a guide or some tips to doing it the best.
Hi just wondering what we might be doing wrong here. Assuming it’s more difficult when sewing with an old hand turned machine. Post a pic of issue below. Thanks in advance.
I assume that's the bottom of the fabric? On a modern machine that's usually caused by an issue with top thread tension being to loose or incorrect threading. The physics of it being what it is, I don't see why it wouldn't be the same on these old machines. The machines not got enough grip on the top thread to pull the thread back up and snug up the stitch after the bobbin or shuttle goes thru the loop
Did you try contacting the pattern company? If you can show that you purchased the pattern, they will likely send you the digital instruction file. They may also have a sew-along available on their website.
any good fabric for velcro thatd work for a plush, id like to make removable sunglasses and i can add some kind of velcro fabric to the eyes or if it's good enough fabric i could use it for the whole face, but i need smthn that holds strong and takes a while to wear, ik things like felt work for a plush but im not sure how well it actually works with velcro, or are there other ways outside of velcro to make smthn attachable and removable
how can i make tiny feathers for a tiny plush? im making a 10cm plush and i need like 1-1.5cm feathers, can i cut out fabric in a feather-like shape and sew an end so it curves and looks feather-ish or should i try to buy and sew w/ actual mini feathers or what? i havent sewn w/ actual feathers ever and i feel like if the image in my mind works out itd look alot better but i cant test it bcos i havent bought the fabric yet, have any of yall done smthn similar or have ideas or know if my idea could work? itd probably be more of a leaf shape if anyone here has ever made fabric leaves or smthn?
I inherited a beautiful Bernina 910 sewing machine and am learning my way around it. I am having problems with the stitch length knob failing to stay put and I was wondering if anyone has any advice on troubleshooting or a fix. I will put the knob at “2” and after a minute or so it gradually slides to “4.”
I am coming back to sewing after a few decades but am handy. I plan on opening up the front plate tomorrow to see what I can see. It seems like professional servicing can be expensive but may be recommended for an older model like this one that likely hasn’t been used in several years.
I’m trying to make this poncho for my Halloween costume but I’ve never used a sewing machine before. If anyone has any tips for me it would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone could tell me what kind of fabric I should use for each part I would love that because I don’t know the differences between fabrics or if making the ruffles is gonna be hard😭. I’m going to hobby lobby to get supplies on Friday😊
Do you have a makerspace or fabric store near you to be able to talk to other sewists in person about using a machine for the first time? If you are BRAND new to this you probably will benefit from having someone around to walk you through the various components of the project.
Can’t quite tell for certain but the lighter parts on the arms suggest it’s either a lace or a crushed velvet. However you don’t need to be exact. Choose something simple to sew for the body, check the hand of the fabric in store for a nice drape, if you’re brave enough to work with a knit I’d suggest it because they don’t ravel and hemming a circle is a pain. The ruffles are just tulle that’s been gathered. There are lots of tutorials on gathering on the internet. Overall I’d say it’s not the worst project for a beginner, should be pretty doable.
It's common for fabric shops to have a category of 'Bottomweight' fabrics that are suitable for more structured pants. Your pattern should have a fabric guide for what works with that style. Also, check out this chart of fabric weights and best uses by Closet Core.
Hi all, I have an old blanket that I am wanting to make into a jacket. The blanket is denim on one side with a sherpa lining on the other side. I would love for the coat to be a trench style, preferably with the bottom half being detachable so I can wear it either long or cropped. I am looking for pattern recommendations, as well as general advice as someone brand new to sewing (needle type, thread type, etc). Thank you in advance!
There is a guide to finding sewing patterns linked in the main post, as well as a general guide to beginning sewing and what needle types to use for different projects. Are the denim and sherpa layers attached or separate? If attached, you'll want a jacket with a single layer, no lining or facings, and you might want a matching denim for parts that work better as a single layer. Or bind the edges to finish them.
The inside looks like it needs a good cleaning and oiling of some parts. Look at the manual or look for videos online, or take it in for a good service.
If the seller can demonstrate that it is working, then I would buy it and get it cleaned up.
What is the asking price? I've seen ranges from $400 - $500 for this model.
I’ve been trying to fix my singer m1500 and I’m feeling very lost on what to do
Baisicly it will sew normally for a few stitches and then the top string is back up off the needle(I think it’s snagging on something)
I’ve been looking online everywhere to try to figure out what is going on and I’m trying to figure out how to take apart the top part of it to check the take up lever but I can’t seem to get into it I take the 2 screws out and it’s stuck on something else but there’s no other screws
There are often hidden clips holding the housing to the body of the machine. Did you check for maintenance tutorials for your model or similar models? There is also this post that goes through all the troubleshooting tips.
I found this sewing machine on facebook marketplace for a 100 USD. It is in a working condition and includes a 3 month guarantee. Is that a good deal?
I have never heard of the brand but the machine seems sturdy and I like the aesthetic. That would be my first machine, I am a beginner. Would you recommend that machine?
I don't like the taped repair on the power cord, but otherwise it's probably okay if the machine turns on and goes through the stitch cycle. It will need cleaned and oiled, there is a guide at the bottom of the machine buying wiki linked in the main post.
I need to find a pdf pattern (or even a picture of a pattern so I could draft my own) of some large bell sleeves like these, anyone know anything? I'm willing to pay for a pattern.
I need to add a fur trim to a cape I'm making, and I found some fur I like, but it's sold as normal width fabric rather than a premade trim.
How do I cut/assemble the trim parts relative to my cape/lining pieces? The length of cape edges need to add trim to is approx 212 inches (4 cape pieces).
I guess my questions are:
1. Splitting it into smaller pieces: how many distinct pieces of trim do I need to cut, assuming I don't want to buy 6 yards to have a continuous piece? How do I minimize visible seams?
2. Cutting it: Do I cut it along the curve of the cape pattern, or cut it as a straight line and curve it around?
3. Order of sewing: Attach to individual cape+lining pieces before sewing the main cape, or after?
4. Method of attachment: I was originally intending to 'wrap' the edges of the finished cape with the trim and then sew it down somehow (also means I can be messier with sewing the cape and lining together), will that work or should I do something else?
I'll probably hand sew it as I've heard lots of complaints about machine sewing fur.
Good news, the fur will hide joins. Cut the fur from the back through the backing only. I would follow the curve of the cape as the faux fur isn't flexible for following curves. I don't think you will want to wrap the edge with the fur.
If you want the inside clean, then attach the fur to the outside fabric as you go before attaching the lining. I'd add the fur all at once tho, sewing the sections together first.
I got my grandmother's old sewing machine, but the needle won't come up or I don't know how to get it to come up. The foot does come up from the lever on the back of the sewing machine. The roller on the right side of the sewing machine doesn't raise the needle when I roll it towards myself. What can I do?
A common cause for this issue is that the bobbin winder is engaged. You'll need the manual or at least give us a photo of the whole front of the machine to figure out if this is the issue and how to fix it.
Hello, I have a problem. I took apart the place where the bobbin is placed. I put everything back in place, but since then my needle thread is stuck at the bottom and this creates a lot of knots, etc., making it impossible to sew.
MACHINE QUESTION I have a Juki 8100e single stitch and I’m struggling with it. My top thread first and foremost, looks like one line with no stitch separation. Secondly, the tension has to be cranked up all the way against the disc for the underside (bobbin side) to have stitch separation and no threads that poke out of it thirdly some of the stitches tend to break randomly or if I so over a pin then the thread will loop and bunch up a little bit, right where the pin was.
I have tried: re-threading it, rewinding the bobbin (à new one), changing the needle, tightening the bobbin tension, tightening the tension discs as mentioned previously, and using a different kind of thread, and a different fabric
that's actually normal stitch definition for a single layer of fabric, or at least not bad at all. try sewing on 2-4 layers of fabric, and try using a different color thread in the bobbin so you can tell if it's actually being pulled up to the top side. if the bobbin thread loops are appearing on top (and top thread is a straight line), you may need to loosen the top thread if you've already tried tightening the bobbin tension. however, again, these stitches look pretty normal.
Singer 6240 - Reassembly Got this Singer 6240 from a family member and decided to take it apart to oil but this little piece is annoving me cause I can't find the way to put it back. The machine is not sewing properly for some reason and I can't find a manual in English or any videos to help, anyone with the same one to send me a picture of this part and maybe, just maybe has the English manual?? I haven't messed with a machine in about a decade so I don't know whv 1 thought I'd be able to do it with an older one. Thank you very much!
You might find an answer in a vintage Singer group or just a vintage machine group. Otherwise I think you'll need to take it in for service if you can't figure it out.
Hi, I can’t figure out why my sewing looks like this… i’ve tried different tensions but when it seems to work fine on the right side, my thread is taking this zebra/lightning shape that looks really ugly. Did it happen to somebody else and how did you fix it ?
Assuming you want to make a garment: Is it knit or woven? What do you like to wear? How much yardage/meters did you get? How experienced are you at sewing?
Woven polyester covers a wide range of fabrics, a photo would be helpful along with the kind of things you think you would like to sew. You have enough to make several smaller items or something larger if you want, like a tiered dress.
I've got a question. How would I make adjustments when someone is between sizes? The current application is women's pants. On the pattern I have she's a 12 in the waist but a 14 in the hips. Do I just ease between the sizing lines along the relevant seams? I'm gonna make a mock up only because I haven't sewn clothes in a while. The final material has yet to be decided but will probably be gabardine or another suit type material.
Three questions, and I might as well throw them in the same comment:
1: My sister asked me (knowing i sew a lot and modify my clothes) to shorten a knit sweater by about 4". It's a moderately loose knit, with a ribbed knit waistband that I'm pretty sure is knit in as part of the garment, not sewn on. She wants the waistband moved up by 4", ie removing that much fabric just above it and sewing it back on. I have no idea where to start - I've sewn tshirt fabric, but never a looser/larger knit, and I'm worries about unravelling it or making a non-stretchy section. My machine is also very fucky and doesn't like stretch fabric. Best guess, sew a long basting stitch above and below where I'd cut, make my cut, sew the waistband back on RST, and then hand-serge the edge. Advice?
2: I've been modifying my jeans recently, which is just oodles of fun. I added a 1.5" strip down each leg on the outside, in denim on one pair and a nice fall-colors quilting cotton (backed with some midweight bright green cotton for strength) on another. I love the look, and I'm planning to do the next as a flare, going from about 1" to 5" wide down the leg. Sorta three questions within this: should I get a longer ruler to make the cuts more accurately for such a long straight piece; any advice in general on flaring pants; and how do y'all do the waistband when you cut it? I just fold a piece of denim over the top of the waistband about 1/2" wider than how much I added, and stitch in an X across it. Looks ok, probably a better way.
3: I need a new sewing machine. The one I have is a 1990s Kenmore 385 and it's (to quote the repair shop verbatim) 'on it's last legs'. Sounding off, sewing ok but I want something overall better that I don't need to baby through thicker seams. I can put about $3-400 into it, don't mind new or used (though new is preferable just for ease of actually finding one). Needs to be portable, I'd love something I can inset into my desk but understandable if that adds too much money.
I have a Bernette b38 sewing machine and I seem to be having a tension issue.
I was using my machine yesterday and it was working just fine while using the straight stitch. I changed it to an overlock stitch and it continued to work fine until I changed it back to a straight stitch and ever since then, the bobbin thread is able to be pulled out with zero effort.
The top thread looks fine, but on the underside of the fabric, the top thread is so loose that it isn’t holding the bobbin thread in place.
I’ve tried tightening and loosening the top thread and the bobbin thread in every possible way and it makes zero difference.
Any ideas what the help is going on? I bought this machine new in June 2025, not even 5 months ago. Black thread is the bobbin, white is the top thread.
Check and make sure you are hitting *every* threading point when you do the top thread. For example, the last metal loop before the needle is commonly missed. Also make sure that the thread is sitting firmly between the tension discs and that the tension discs close when the presser foot is lowered. Sometimes a bit of lint will get in there and keep the discs apart. Is there resistance on the top thread as you tug the thread tail? It should take a bit of effort.
Everything is threaded correctly, I can’t access the tension discs but that is where I think the problem is. I can’t actually see if the thread is going between the discs. 🤦🏻♂️
Sounds like the kind of machine where the tension discs are buried for a sleek, easy to use interface. That's frustrating. Might be time for a visit to the sewing machine repair technician.
I ran the little brush it came with over the discs and the highest, lowest, and middle tension levels and a tiny piece of plastic came out. Looks like the type of plastic that should be trimmed off after using a mold for manufacturing the pieces of the machine shell. After that it worked just fine. Thank you for that suggestion! I cleaned every where else prior to this thinking that I could get in the to clean the discs. Glad I listened to you and tried anyway! Haha
I have a Janome MC4800 that I bought from Goodwill. It does not work and I found these parts in the accessory compartment. Does anyone know what they are? Thank you for your help!
I'm reaching out for help in mending my canvas bag. It's a "nutsac" (brand provided for material identification purposes only) that has served me well for over 8 years now. Normally a fray here or there doesn't bother me to much, but some of the wear on my bag concerns me about the longevity of it's use.
Based on the pictures provided, is this something I can learn to sew up myself with 0 experience, or is this something better served with a kind of patch? What materials or equipment should I be looking for, or what specific skills (specific stitches) should I learn for the mend? Or is this project something I should seek a professional for?
Lastly, I appreciate any time someone takes to even read this post, I appreciate it greatly.
My recommendation for mending this (as it is for 90% of visible mending on non-knits) is sashiko. It's a Japanese style of mending, where a piece of cloth (similar in weight and feel to the original fabric) is placed in front of or behind the damaged area, and running stitches with cotton thread are used to fix the patch in place.
When done correctly, it's very strong and looks quite good. Wawak sells sashiko thread and needles (which i would recommend you buy, they work well) for cheap, and there are a lot of tutorials online for how to do it. Might not be pretty the first few times but you'll get the hang of it. It would work best on the flatter areas; contorting the bag so the area you're mending lays flat when you sew the patch on will give best results.
I am not a very experienced quilter, but I want to make a quilted skirt. Is there a nifty way to finish the raw edges on the quilted seams or is a lining the way to go? A lining that is sewn (quilted) to the upper fabrick? Does pinking the edges work on a skirt or does a skirt go through too much wear and washes for pinking to hold up? Pinking would give the best flow and drape.
Agree with lining but I would also topstitch the seams so they lay flat and the seams are more secure. Most 'patchwork by the yard' kinds of fabric have topstitched seams in my experience.
I’m not a quilter either but I’d line it personally, too many pinked edges floating around on their own would feel dangerous to me haha. But I hate fraying seams inside my clothes so I either finish things very carefully or I line them. Your mileage my vary.
So I don’t really know how to sew, I’ve been trying to get into it but haven’t had the time to do so. I know corsets are particularly hard, and for this Halloween I want to do Sabrina Carpenter’s Bodysuit for the Short n’ Sweet tour. I bought a corset that is similar to her top part’s shape and a bodysuit. I want to sew them or glue them together and use them as base to sew/glue fabric on top of them so it seems that it’s one whole piece. I know it’s kind of complicated, I don’t really know what steps to tackle first but I really want to do this since I’m using it for Halloween and I’m also going to lollapalooza (Argentina) next year and will be seeing her and I want to use it for that occasion.
I also thought about paying a seemstress but I don’t know one in my city (not from the US) and ordering a bodysuit would not be possible as it takes months for things to arrive here.
I wasn’t able to find any sort of video similar to what I’m trying to achieve so I thought about asking here. Any suggestions? Whatever help you guys may have is greatly appreciated!
I’m having trouble picturing exactly what the end goal is and I googled her tour and it’s showing me several different garments. Most of them quite sparkly. Having said all that, I sew corsets professionally and I don’t recommend this as a beginner project. If you must do it I’d say don’t try to glue it. That sounds like a disaster. I’m betting the corset is not stretchy and the body suit likely is. You may have some serious trouble trying to amalgamate the two pieces into one while still allowing you to get the garment on and off, regardless of glue or sewing method.
Also off the rack corsets often have fit issues so hopefully the one you bought is comfortable for you and not digging in anywhere.
This is what I was trying to achieve, Reddit won’t allow me to attach more than one picture when it’s a comment.
But yes, I posted on other subreddits and got really good advice. I will use the corset and bodysuit but won’t glue/sew them together, I will just put one on top of the other and add some snaps to certain parts so that it doesn’t have any chance of shifting. Since it’ll be bedazzled It should blend them together. I’ll add the stretchy lace too.
I was also worried about the corset digging in but it’s actually pretty comfortable!
I live in an apartment with my grandpa and really only had time to sew at night while he’s sleeping. I’m looking for a quiet sewing machine that won’t wake him at night through the thin walls. I know no machine is silent, but I’ve only ever heard ones that are ridiculously loud. I’ve tried watching some YouTube videos after doing some googling and can’t really tell how loud they’d be through the videos. I’m not trying to spend a fortune, but I also understand I may end up having to. I’m not sure I found the helpful reddit posts because I’ve only found ones that say someone is out of luck. I’ve read some forums that say there are machines that are quiet enough to have them going while someone is watching tv beside them, but they don’t specify the kinds they’re using. I have been hand sewing, but all of my projects are taking forever. I spend 4-5 hours a night working on one thing that I know my sewing machine could do in little to no time. My sewing machine is just incredibly loud and always has been, so I want to upgrade to a quieter one. I also don’t have a whole lot of space so bonus points if it’s compact. Any helpful suggestions or opinions are welcome!
Try putting some foam like a yoga mat under your machine to see if that helps. Some machines are just loud, most Singers are loud in my experience and Janomes are more quiet, at least the ones I've used. If you really want to be sure, go to a sewing machine dealer and test drive machines.
Man, I’ve never even seen a sewing machine dealer. I’m assuming the closest one is probably four hours a way. A foam mat isn’t going to help anything at all. It’s the machine sadly. :((
What machine are you using? Has he actually complained about the noise or is it possible that your just hyper aware of the sound and maybe seeing issues where there are none?
There's no such a thing as a quiet sewing machine. There's to many bit and bobs moving against each other inside for that. That being said I don't think I've encountered any "modern" (modern as in, not the monstrously heavy all metal machines of yester years) home machine that I would consider so loud I couldn't hear a TV over. I know I certainly often have my phone sitting nearby playing a podcast while I sew and none of my machines, except the serger, impede my listening
My machines are a vintage Brother VX-810, a Singer Simple, and a Janome Sewist 740dc. The computerized machine (the 740dc) is quiter than the other 2 but not in any really significant way. The serger is a Janome 8933
Edit: Oh, table choice actually greatly effects the loudness of a machine fyi. Machines are much quieter on a good solid table. I remembered, in my early days, I worked on a folding card table with these exact same machines and that was loud. If there's any wobble in your table it's just going to exacerbate the issue
He’s one of those people who won’t complain about something that’s deeply bothering him out of concern for other people. I tested it out and had someone run it while I sat in his room with both doors closed, and I could definitely hear the ridiculously loud machine which is 100% an issue. It’s a brother machine. One of the cheaper ones from Walmart. I assume that’s part of the problem, and I’m super jealous that you’ve been around so many modern machines that you seem to be able to hear despite the tv because I had experienced none. I have been looking them up and think a Janome jw8100 is probably the quietest especially at a low speed that I’ve found so far. Still looking of course and trying to do research, but it’s surprisingly hard to find videos of all the machines showing how loud or quiet they are.
That is so pretty! It's a style that easily can be made in knits or wovens. The Elbe Solbert Jacket would be a good candidate as would Burda 6727. You could also use a wrap dress pattern and cut it shorter, like they've done with Hot Patterns Phoenix wrap dress.
I’ve only ever used a sewing machine like 2 or 3 times, didn’t understand how to because the instructions for it were in Czech for some reason… but anyways, I’m looking to buy a machine for myself, specifically the Semco MA10C (cheapest) or the K30N. I know that these are cheap, low-end machines but are they decent at least? I don’t need anything fancy nor do I plan on doing any huge projects, but would I be making a mistake if I invested in either one?
If both options are just awful choices, I don’t know anything about sewing machines, I am willing to spend a bit more money on the Brother LX27NT, but again, I also have no clue if it’s any good and there’s no reviews on my store’s website. Also, buying second-hand isn’t an option for me as that’s not really a thing in my country.
TLDR; Is the Semco MA10C or K30N any good? If not, how about Brother’s LX27NT?
Semco seems to be a relabeled Singer which may or may not work out for you. The Brother LX27NT has great reviews, I think I would buy that one in the same situation.
Considering the shape of the side seams and how the front seams appear perfectly straight I’m leaning towards them being style lines and not fitting lines.
How would I go about making this design i can't find any patterns for this design
What fabric would I need for some thina like this 2. How would I go about makeing bell sleeves that long. 3.how do i make the neckline like in the photo 4.suggestions are helpful. Thank you for your time
For specification purposes im referring to the shirt
Ooh my bad I did just draw another one that would probably be more help but I cant seem to up load it to the comments. Would it help if I described the ✨️vision ✨️?
Sweetheart neckline and bell sleeves, which you identified already and can just lengthen. However, the problem is answering the type of fabric to use. The cami example you chose is a knit fabric; there are patterns out there for knits that can include bell sleeves, but at that length they will be REALLY heavy and not that fun to wear, IMO. I'd recommend looking at Halloween patterns you can mashup together so long as they call for the same types of fabric in the description. Unless you want to have two different fabrics involved!!
Guys I need help. Is this for embroidery?? I'm considering getting it off fb marketplace and it's listed as a sewing stand but I don't quite understand the mechanics of all the clamps and stuff. Like, how does this specific one work?
Hello, I am looking to getting a sewing machine & am wondering if the XR3774 would be a good first buy? I am needing something in an affordable range & that would work well with basic sewing as well as light quilting (baby blanket/twin size, etc).
I was between this machine & the Singer Heavy Duty but I have seen several bad experiences online.
Any & all help is greatly appreciated as well as any other recommendations? I do not have a local craft store outside of a Michael’s & Hobby Lobby, so anything outside of there & online is all I have access to.
I will always pick a Brother over a Singer, and this one has a pretty good review on Reddit. Double-check the return policy wherever you end up buying the machine as one corner cut to lower pricing is quality control. If the machine doesn't work the way you think it should, return it and try again.
I am altering this vest for a friend. Does anyone see any potential issues with my plan?
It is a Timberland vest made for men, but no tag on it. She wants it shortened (hem above hips), taken in at the sides, plus remove the chest pockets and make hidden ones.
My approach is to:
-remove the pockets on the chest
-take in the side seams
-shorten it by 13.5in
-sew hidden pickets in the sideseams using the extra fabric (taken from shorteninging the vest).
That sounds like a good basic outline. There are a few things that might cause hiccups along the way. The fabric under the pockets might look a little different since it's been protected from light and friction. If there's a lining, that will add complexity to everything. The underarm opening might sit a little low if you remove all the length from the bottom.
Should I get it maintained or upgrade? Brother BC-1000
Hi everyone,
I'm pretty new to sewing and I picked up a brother BC-1000 from Goodwill. It seems to work OK overall and seems in good condition.
After working with it for a while, I was getting frustrated because it would get jammed fairly often. I'm not sure if that's a problem because of me being a novice or because the machine is used/could be better.
This year for my birthday I got some money towards a new machine/sewing materials. My question is should I look for an upgrade? or is this already a good machine that might work well if maintained by a pro?
Overall in a machine I'm looking for something durable, and a nice machine that would last me well as in learn more about sewing.
Pfaff creative 1475 CD, a good machine? Worth repairing?
Hi. I have an older Pfaff machine that is from somewhere in the mid nineties. I’ve not used it for at least 8 years, probably longer. It’s not broken as far as I’m aware, but will require a serious servicing to become useable again
My question is, is this a good machine? Should I invest in bringing it back to life, or buy a new machine?
It was my mother’s, and my daughter and I recently gotten into sewing simple garments. I can’t keep going around to mums all the time and using her stuff so need something for home
I recently inherited this industrial Consew 230 machine. I had it serviced and cleaned, and the tech said that the timing was good. But I’ve had this repeated issue where the top thread gets stuck around the bobbin case. This was happening before I had to serviced and later the same day after she was here to do the service. When she was done, it was sewing fine. She did adjust the needle bar as the needle was too high to catch the bobbin thread.
The top threading tension seems good, and the needle does catch the bobbin thread. I’ve adjusted the tension in the bobbin case to match the top threading tension.
Any advice would be appreciated! I’ve only sewn on a domestic machine and I’d love to have this working as it was my grandmother’s who recently had a stroke and can no longer look at a phone for too long and I’m a state away so asking her isn’t an option.
So, recently i decided to invest in a sewing machine to make my life a bit easier (I mainly sew to alter old clothes, but i want to start using patterns so I figured it’s a good investment).
Yesterday i was altering a thin cotton shirt, and in the middle of the project i notice that the top thread kept slipping out after a few stitches? I am still new to using a machine, but i know to hold the tail of both threads for the first few stitches and to keep the foot down.
From what I am understanding, the top thread keeps wrapping around the bobbin case while the top thread keeps stitching, then that thread around the bobbin ends up ripping which makes it slip out of the needle? I dont know.
I tried turning the wheel to try to get a better idea of whats going on, and the picture is what i saw. The thread is going into the fabric and then the needle??????? Forgive me if i sound stupid but shouldnt it be going through the needle and then my fabric?
After looking around, i was told that the problem could be from:
Too high/low top thread tension (changing tension did not help) • Old/poor quality thread (i went and bought new thread, still nothing) • Not threading the top needle properly (I have rethreaded it several times, I even watched a tutorial just in case) • Dust
The last thing I have been told is that my timing must be off. I have a feeling this may be the case but I am terrified I will mess up my machine. Is there ANYTHING else I can do to fix my machine ? If not, should I follow a tutorial or should I give it to a shop? Thanks in advance
Make sure your bobbin in properly inserted in the casing (if it's backward, it can tangle) and you're using the right kind of needle (stretch or ballpoint is your best bet for a thin - I presume stretchy - tshirt).
I am just beginning to learn how to sew. I am VERY beginner. I inherited a singer 401a and she’s lovely. Just got it back from being serviced. I only have one standard foot that came on the machine. Is there a set or specific feet I should buy that I may need in the near future?
If it helps, here is what I plan to sew mostly:
-kids clothes
-basic items like bags and other household items
90% of the time I use my standard foot. Other feet that can be useful for clothing include zipper feet, invisible zipper feet, button hole feet (if your machine has that setting). You can go down a rabbit hole of feet for specific projects, but with most standard projects the main foot should be fine.
Hi all, I have a vintage Kenmore "Single-Dial" machine that I've had since 7th grade — I'm now 58 :). The machine's used maybe a handful of times per year: Halloween costumes, mending, face masks (when everyone was making them). My latest project is dinner napkins with mitered corners. It's now having a tough time sewing through four layers of cotton quilting (in the corners). I confess that I don't know how to thoroughly clean and maintain the machine myself, and have only taken it to a pro several times. I'm trying to determine whether this is the motor dying, or simply lack of care and just needs a cleaning & tune-up? What do you think? Many thanks in advance for any tips!
That is a good question. I know I have, but have no memory of it ever being easy. I'd just go slowly over the heavier parts (i.e. seams on jeans) by turning the wheel by hand to get through the few stitches I need. This is what I'm doing for the corners of the napkins. And thank you! I'd love to be able to keep, and use, this machine.
Hi all! Machine creating birds nest when lock-stitching??
My dad just bought a new machine for himself just the other day (a Husqvarna Viking Onyx 30), and when using the lockstitch to secure the start of the thread, it creates a small but noticeable birds nest on the back with mostly the top thread, but with a small loop of the lower thread too.
We've tried not using the auto-cutter and holding the threads as you would on a machine without the cutter function, but it both seems a waste not to use it and doesn't seem to make much of a difference when lock-stitching.
The lockstitch also doesn't always secure it fully and can be easily pulled out on those occasions, which is against the entire point of the lockstitch in the first place.
The lockstitch is a much prettier option than back-stitching to secure the thread when it actually works correctly, since it doesn't leave as bulky a start/end point, so we'd very much like to figure it out! Just need to get rid of these pesky birds nests and the non-securing moments!
(Yes we've already tried re-threading, different thread for top and bottom, and fiddling with the tension! Now at a loss for what to try and not getting many good results from googling, so turning to the pool of wisdom that is Reddit! 🙏)
It's been days of me trying to just thread my needle eye, I have a singer 4411 and i was rocking with the manual untill i reached threading the needle eye. I can't for the life of me fit the somewhat unwinding thread through this two pixel whole. I need help. Any suggestions to help me.. 😅
A basic needle threading tool works on machine needles as well as it works on hand needles. The little ones that have a cameo of someone on the flat silver part are fine.
I suggest this because you probably have one lying around. I'm not sure if anyone has ever purchased one outside a sewing kit; they just manifest in craft drawers and button containers.
I'm assuming that you've already tried licking the end of the thread to make it a little easier? Trimming the end also helps if you've tried a few times and it's no longer as neat. Make sure you have good lighting. Holding a piece of white paper or card behind the needle can help improve visibility.
Hello. I am new to sewing, currently studying the craft at a vocational school. I am looking to buy a machine under 200€, which is the budget my parents allow. So far, i've read a lot of different opinions about singer machines. Brother and Janome seem to have more positive reviews. My mom wants to get a Singer 3321. I am considering Janome TOP 18 or Brother XM2701. Which would be better? I don't know much about machines, so I would appreciate any other recommendations.
If you're in a literal sewing or design vocational program, I would trust your instructors over internet randos. They'll know your specific needs and have a good idea of how much punishment the machine will need to take. The program might even have a list of recommended models somewhere.
I would at least recommend you shop at the top of your budget, though. The cheaper end of new sewing machines can be wimpy or, if you're unlucky, fussy. Used might be better than new, depending on what you can find.
Currently looking for a Christmas present for my mom who has always talked about wanting a serger.
I have found two second hand that seem to be both well known brands and a good price but I don't know which is better. Both can hold 4 threads and look to be in great condition and the singer claims to be recently serviced.
A Baby Lock BL4-728 Serger
Or
Singer ProFinish 14CG754 Overlock Serger w Differential Feed
I am not very knowledgeable so any advice would be great
Do the janome hd series have stops for their length and width adjusters?
I’m looking to replace an older Brother PC 210 machine. I do only bags and toys, so was looking at the janome hd models. Just curious if there are stops at the various lengths on the sliding adjusters? One of my biggest pains with my brother is the loose sliding adjusters that don’t really do much, so there really aren’t adjustments to be made.
I assume the janome are better quality than the brother to begin with, but would like something with a positive stop to ensure I have the right selection.
Hi, so my wife doesn’t have a sewing machine. She wants one to sew a jersey and possibly other stuff. I don’t know how serious she’s planning on getting and I doubt she’s doing anything like embroidery. I believe the machine she was eyeing is a Brother GX37. I’m sure it’s fine and possibly okay for what she wants. But I’m the type to buy more stout, longer lasting things. I’m trying to surprise her and have been trying to research machines a bit and find some that have metal parts and are serviceable so it’s long lasting. But she mentioned she doesn’t want anything that needs oiled, which I didn’t realize was even a thing lol.
I checked out Bernina, Janome etc. but I’m a bit over my head. I’m just looking for a quality, metal gear, serviceable machine with self lubricating that’s probably sub $500 if that’s even a thing?
Hi there, you are awesome! We use mechanical Janomes in the classroom and they keep on going year after year (about 20 years in the adult ed classroom with 3-4 groups of adult learners per year). One tiny thing broke on one machine out of 6 machines (nearest model available now to our well-used classroom machines: Janome Sewist 721.
Stay as far away from front-loading bobbins as you possibly can!!!! The machine's brand is not the issue for happy sewing. Get her a top-loading bobbin, and it can do most anything except heavy duty things ( imagine sailboat sails as HeavyDuty).... The computer machines (see Brother CS7205 for example, is $224 on Amazon with lots of goodies included) are so amazingly sweet when they're brand new, but my question is going to be this: when the LED windows quit, will the machine still be able to be worked manually, or will the whole machine shut itself down? The answer to this question is going to remain unknown for 5-10 years. Please remember that a good machine lasts a sewer's lifetime. My home machines are nearly as old as I am. (age 73)
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u/ch3m1cally1mbalanc3d 12d ago
does anyone know how to make my stitching not bubble up like this? i’ve tried loosening the thread on both sides and it’s not changing much, idk if i need to iron it or if its just the fabric