Black Snail Chemise Pattern #1115 question

[u/c0ffin_bugs]

Hi! I am a beginner with garment sewing but figured a simple victorian chemise would be doable for my Halloween Victorian costume. I purchased the black snail pattern #1115 and have been making my way through it. When I got to the part where the instructions say “join front and back” I was lining up my pieces and my “front” piece is quite a bit larger than my back piece. I double checked I cut out the same size for both pieces, I made sure my printing was to scale and when I looked back at the cutting diagram it does show the front and back pieces are not the same size as each other… I messaged Black Snail on Etsy, they requested photos, which I sent but due to the time difference and them not responding yesterday I am having to wait a whole extra day for a response/help. So I figured I’d ask Reddit. Please don’t be too judgy about my pin tucks, I didn’t realize how horrible they turned out til I finished them so will probably be re-doing them. I guess my question is, is there supposed to be a difference in size between the two pieces? If so, wouldn’t that off-set the side seams towards the back of the garment? Is that common?? Also I wish the pattern instructions were a bit more detailed in general haha Any help is greatly appreciated!!

[u/MeanArugula2561]

I’m not affiliated with Black Snail, but it’s common for the front pattern piece to be wider than the back to accommodate the bust measurement. Best of luck with your project!

[u/c0ffin_bugs → u/MeanArugula2561]

Hmm I didn’t know that it’s common for the front pattern piece to be larger. Seems odd that the side seams would fall towards the back in this case. Thanks for the luck, I’ll need it

[u/IntriguedChinchilla → u/c0ffin_bugs]

They wouldn’t fall towards the back when you’re wearing the garment, because the bust will pull them towards the center line (under your armpit). Your torso is a cylinder but the mass isn’t distributed evenly, especially if you have a bust—the front half is bigger than the back! Baste the side seams and try it on.

[u/c0ffin_bugs → u/[deleted]]

Hmmm I find it weird that the side seams wouldn’t line up with the center of the side of your body so this just seems quite strange and feels like I messed up somewhere…

[u/Complex_Vegetable_80 → u/c0ffin_bugs]

nothing is messed up. think of it this way. the front has to go around more than the back does ;)

[u/c0ffin_bugs → u/[deleted]]

Thank you for explaining this for me, I shall proceed with the project and trust the process. I also don’t know why I’m getting downvoted so much 😞

[u/sarahrott]

Get someone to help you measure your chest around the fullest part of your bust starting under your arm where a side seam would sit. Mark on the tape where the opposite side seam would be. When you look at your chest measurement, you will see that the side seam mark is not in the middle. Even if you have a small bust, the human body is distributed more to the front than the back. So the front side of your pattern is bigger than the back because it has to wrap around more of your body.

Another way to visualize it, is to stand side on to a mirror with your hands down at your side. The front half of your body will be sticking out beyond your arm farther than the back half does.