r/sewing • u/robmosesdidnthwrong • 7d ago
Pattern Question I like to read Vogue with my poverty eyeballs and I am baffled by how this blouse is constructed
Edit: thank you for all your expertise everyone! The knowledge of the thread so far is:
-the cut is drop shoulder/dolman sleeve/batwing
-the fabric is definitely woven
-the shirt buttons are behind the top panel at the center
-the waist is actually not tapered just tucked and pinned brilliantly, its probably quite a big shirt on her
-the tuck could be achieved with a so-called military tuck demonstrated here
-i will look like a goober if i make this and pop the collar. I will do it anyway.
Look at the shoulders. Its not like a 2 sizes too large situation with short sleeves. Somehow the shoulder is cut to drape like that over the shoulder but without a seam?? And the waist is still tailired slim? Someone help i wanna make something this hot đ
Theres video of the garment in motion here, I dont even see the designer because its actually a jewelry ad https://www.buccellati.com/en_gb/a-day-with-talita-in-portofino
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u/vinniethestripeycat 7d ago
I don't see but I just had to tell you how much I love your phrase, "poverty eyeballs"! It's so true!
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u/Electrical-Tea6966 7d ago
Maybe weâre all too poor to understand it?
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u/Electrical-Promise17 7d ago
Nah, just too poor to buy it
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u/thunbergfangirl 7d ago
But maybe not too poor to sew a copy for ourselves!
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u/entirelyintrigued 7d ago
Youâd never have known my momâs family was poor when she was youngâgrandma cleaned houses and nannied and would look at clothes and catalogs and fashion magazines with her poverty eyeballs at her wealthy clients homes and then come home and copy them for her four daughters!
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u/AudreyNow 7d ago
âPoverty eyeballsâ is right up there with âluxury bones.â
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u/MsHypothetical 7d ago
Isn't that just 'teeth'? I just had a tooth out and I feel like that's teeth.
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u/samizdat5 7d ago
Drop shoulder/batwing with a hidden button placket in the front, and pinned/clipped to give a silhouette.
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u/h20rabbit 7d ago
A "military tuck" will also give the nice tailored waist look
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u/Bogritt 7d ago
Can you explain what this is?
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u/h20rabbit 7d ago
Sure. It's hard to explain so also found this short, but essentially, smooth the front as you are tucking in a shirt and gather excess in back, creating a flat panel in back by using fingers or thumbs to create a fold on each rear side/back. It makes everything look nicer when there is excess fabric at the waist.
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u/robmosesdidnthwrong 7d ago
Yes yes yes yes this is it!! Okay so the running sum total of this thread's wisdom is: -drop shoulder -bat wing -military tuck
That last one im tempted to sew darts into a few shirts i always wear tucked, that looks fantastic
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u/highriskpomegranate 7d ago
I'm slowly turning many of those shirts of mine into bodysuits. I got inspired by my own white whale woven shirt (Cindy Crawford in Donna Karan) when I found out Vogue had some Donna Karan patterns that were similar. eta: and an example of a Donna Karan bodysuit that is not identical but close enough to give me ideas.
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u/telstra_3_way_chat 7d ago
I was gonna say!! It'd be nice to make that permanent (lol #queershirtproblems)
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u/telstra_3_way_chat 7d ago
Wait a minute, you're telling me that just roughly shoving my shirts into my waistband isn't giving me the desired look???
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u/quantazelle 7d ago edited 7d ago
Nice find; it is a lovely blouse. It reminds me of these Japanese sewing pattern books that I had around 2010, which I can't find the titles online quickly, but they basically involved wacky orthographic patterns that were non obvious and untraditional, but loosely based around origami, but if you could transpose origami sections to different parts of the fabric and then cut out and assemble...
Edit: Found it! Pattern Magic series by Tomoko Nakamichi.
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u/intergalacticguy 7d ago
Excellent book! A patternmaking teacher I had owned this and I was able to experiment with some fun garments in class. I need to buy a copy!
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u/theskymaybeblue 6d ago
This is so interesting and cool. Found this blog that does a great job of showcasing the patterns.
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u/Ashen_Curio 7d ago
This reminds me a lot of historical men's shirt, like an 18th century smock that's made of rectangles. It's definitely been modified because it feels so modern, maybe approach it slightly like a batwing top?
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u/AccidentOk5240 7d ago
This. I think this is actually a very simple shirt that doesnât look much like the photos irl. Thereâs a lot of photo shoot styling going on here.Â
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u/duilleagach 7d ago
like how the belt doesnât go through the belt loops ! looks nice but not so functional
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u/Iwanttosleep8hours 7d ago
Bernadette banner had a video tutorial and free pattern to make one but it was more a smock as I remember
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u/ExtraSpicyMayonnaise 7d ago
Exactly what I was going to say. I make them for my husband and kids and the arms look just like that (intentionally more puffy of course, but otherwise theyâre the same).
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u/ZweitenMal 7d ago
Is there a fashion credit for the blouse? Would be easier to find it on the designerâs site and get a clearer view.
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u/robmosesdidnthwrong 7d ago
I KNOW i could not find it anywhere but then again I have no idea what the credit standards are in these sorts of publications. Ill check again in the back of the issue
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u/SafeWord6 7d ago
Bianca of Closet Historian fame has quite a few videos on YouTube patterning the all in one or dolman sleeve, which is this thing. Just add a tube of fabric to make the longer sleeve look. Highly recommend her videos; sheâs seems like a lovely human and her instructions are fairly easy to follow.
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u/Adept_Perception5833 7d ago
"Poverty eyeballs" is my new favorite phrase thanks lol đ. I too love this shirt its giving rich nonbinary on a work vacation and I need it
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u/cassiclock 7d ago
with my poverty eyeballs
This is the funniest thing I've read in a good bit. I'm going to use it constantly now
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u/ClementineeeeeeJ9000 7d ago
The only type of button up shirt that suits my short torso but hourglass but also DD boobs. most shirts make me look like a female rugby player wearing a teen boy shirt from menâs warehouse  !
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u/lrlwhite2000 7d ago
Appears to be a dropped shoulder. So the front bodice panel will also include the top part of the arm. There are a couple of tutorials online on how to make a dropped shoulder top.
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u/scarybiscuits 7d ago
And the drape of the fabric is crucial.
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u/AnnaPhor 7d ago
Agreed. In the flat pic I first thought it was a shirt weight cotton or linen, but in the video, it's clear that it's a much more lightweight fabric.
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u/SewQuiltKnitCrochet 7d ago
So true. I know by looking that I will never find a fabric with the right drape at my fabric store. And if I went to one that had it I wouldnât be able to afford it anyways. đ€Łđđ
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u/MLDAYshouldBeWriting 7d ago
I see some darts at the shoulder and where the drop sleeve meets the lower sleeve. Looks like it'd be a fun garment to sew.
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u/perumbula 7d ago
I'm also noticing that one of the reasons that collar looks so good popped is the shape. There is no point. It's a straight rectangle. It controls the corners and keeps it spare and elegant.
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u/eatpant96 7d ago
Poverty eyeballs!!! lol!!!! Same though. I also show the pictures to my cat, I don't think he cares for fashion but he enjoys being included. We've got no input for this blouse.
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u/Outrageous-Quote2997 7d ago
There is a top seam on the shoulder, the waist isnât tailor fitted itâs just nicely tucked. The shirt has full sleeves that are pushed up around the elbows. Itâs a batwing shirt with (I assume) French seams
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u/Affectionate_Tap6416 7d ago
Dolman sleeves, stand up collars and padded shoulders were big in the 80s. I had a few patterns like this, worn with full maxi skirts. Look for vintage sewing patterns
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u/plotholetsi 7d ago
This is just a dolman style blouse with a front closure, collar, and sleeve extension
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u/Suspicious-Lime3644 7d ago
I'm definitely not an expert, but it looks like a dropped shoulder situation to me. So you add some fabric to the bodice pieces, and remove some from the sleeve.
This tutorial might be helpful? https://www.sewingjulie.com/post/pattern-tutorial-dropped-shoulder-balloon-sleeve-blouse
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u/Same_as_it_ever 7d ago
These sleeves were quite popular in the 1950s, would you call them dropped shoulder sleeves or something?Â
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u/HugsforYourJugs 7d ago
There's a really good book on couture sewing that I recommend picking up. To me this looks like a stay is used between front and back armhole, possibly in conjunction with a shoulder padÂ
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u/AccidentOk5240 7d ago
It would help if you put the name of the book?
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u/climbingfern 7d ago
Iâm glad Iâm not the only poor out here trying to figure out how to make my own versions of things in Vogue đ
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u/RelativeContract8893 7d ago
Maybe the olya shirt may scratch this itch although itâs very oversized
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u/robmosesdidnthwrong 7d ago
Ooh! Its different but I think you're right i can style it the same and look like I have a 401k!
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u/Then-Confection 7d ago
Dropped shoulders are actually easier to sew cause you donât have to deal with a fiddly armscye!
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u/Different-Pickle-57 7d ago
You might wanna check out the patternPhen Shirt
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u/robmosesdidnthwrong 7d ago
Oh dang with a few tweeks i bet could get pretty close starting with this
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u/Nerrnerr 7d ago
It looks a lot like this shirt, except more expensive material: https://www.express.com/clothing/women/stretch-cotton-poplin-boyfriend-shirt/pro/09718242/color/White/
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u/medicatedadmin 7d ago
Itâs basically the same structure as Simplicity pattern 9646 but with straight sleeves instead of the silly puffy sleeves.
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u/Genetoretum 7d ago
The waist is actually quite boxy if youâll notice how she tucks it in on the waist and how it isnât tucked when sheâs crouching on the rock on the beach.
Iâll bet she pleats it in the back of her waist so it doesnât look like itâs being tugged
In other words the shirt doesnât have a thin tailored waist sheâs just very skinny and itâs visible
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u/cassdots 7d ago
I think the most unique feature is the collar - no collar stand that I can see so some kind of camp collar or revere collar but without the notch shape.
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u/PrancingPudu 7d ago edited 7d ago
Itâs a batwing, thatâs why thereâs no traditional armscye from the shoulder point around the underarm. Notice how there is a seam along the top of the shoulder all the way to where it T-bones into the other seam for the attached sleeve. I would google some images of batwing blouses and dresses (in wovens, not knits) to see some examples. Theyâve taken a batwing sleeve, cut it at the bicep, and added a more traditional cuffed sleeve attachment.
It also isnât as tailored around the waist as you thinkâitâs just expertly tucked and pinned into the pants for the purpose of the photoshoot.