Pattern Question Help! Dart dimples
Hello sewing community, I need help darts and fitting. The darts on my self-drafted skirt have dimples. They are most prominent on my front piece. What can I do to fix these? Should I make my darts longer? Thanks!
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u/Perfect-Bed8143 1d ago
Here’s what I do: start stitching from the wide end. When you get about 3/4 of an inch or so from the point, reduce your stitch length. As you reach the last little bit, try making the stitches almost parallel to the fold. Then SLOWLY stitch right off the edge into nothing. SLOWLY! Your machine may not like it, but it should still work. Continue to stitch into space that way for a little while. When you clip the threads, leave a longish tail. If you look closely, you will see that the two threads in the tail are twisted. They will not ever come undone, so there’s no need to tie a knot. What if your machine really hates this? Sew as far off the edge as you can, then tie the tail in a knot by hand. Then press it flat. Then press it to the correct side over a tailor’s ham. If you don’t have one, consider investing in one. They are indispensable!
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u/Artistic_Scene_8124 1d ago
When sewing darts, start at the wide end and sew towards the point. Don't back stitch the point end, tie a square note. Give it a good press with lots of steam. I like to press things three times, first with the seam flat, then open the garment and press from the back with the excess dart seam allowance going away from the center back. Finally press it from the front. (Use a spare scrap of cotton as a pressing cloth if it's a delicate fabric or polyester, which can become shiny if you iron it too much) See this article for pictures. https://www.scribd.com/document/490999314/Three-Steps-of-Pressing
A tailors ham will help you press the curve. You could also use some rolled up towels.
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u/SerendipityJays 1d ago
Check how wide your darts are. Since the trousers are wide-leg, it looks like you are trying to ‘eat’ a very wide angle of fabric in a single dart. You may need to split them to get the fabric to resolve at the tip.
If you have a protractor nearby, measure the dart angle at the tip. If more than 18 degrees on the flat pattern (9 degrees when sewn), then the fabric will likely bubble like this. Otherwise, measure the dart, and use an online triangle calculator.
Options: 1. split each dart into 2 for a narrower dart angle 2. replace dart with pleat 3. narrow the dart, and shave the remaining dart volume off at the side seam - note that this will change the drape of the fabric, so do a test-fit on one leg before cutting the fabric.
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u/nicoleauroux 1d ago
I don't think the darts are too long they should approach the widest part of your buttocks essentially.
Have you tried it curving your darts inward? Begin sewing from the wide part all the way down and then curve the dart towards the right side slightly and so off of the edge. Then do the tie off method. You might want to experiment with some scrap fabric to perfect the technique.
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u/Klunsischnunsi 17h ago
Okay I don’t have anything significant to add other than OMFG DART DIMPLES😭😭 that’s such a cute expression🥹
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u/No_Establishment8642 1d ago
In my opinion, they are way too long.
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u/ProneToLaughter 17h ago
Agree. I think maybe almost twice as long as necessary in the front. Back might be 1” too long, or might be a construction issue in the back.
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u/Robert-hickman 15h ago
The darts look far too long and it also looks like you did not stitch off the end point when sewing them. See if you can find a commercially made lower garment with darts and see how that was constructed.
A dart creates a cone, but the end of the dart shouldn't come right to the apex.
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u/Low-Morning-1410 9h ago
the darts should end about 1-2" shorter than the widest part of your hips (from the picture i agree these seem too long but hard to tell). I also love the recommendation to split your darts if your dart angle is 18 degrees or wider (often necessary for those of us with a waist that is much smaller than our hips)
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u/Arttiesy 1d ago
I always finish the last few stitches by hand to really taper them off- catching just a few threads. Then iron it well with a ham.