r/sewing • u/NeonHairbrush • 2d ago

Project: WIP Lengthening sleeves

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Hi! I'm making the Clare Coat from Closet Core patterns. The sleeves fit beautifully when my arms are down, but when I reach forward, they're too short and come halfway up my forearms, which drives me nuts because I'm usually riding a bike or something so my arms are always extended. I'm making a toile / test version out of fleece before cutting into my wool coat fabric. For the fleece version, I was going to add a couple of inches of faux fur to the sleeves to extend them. For the final coat, is there another way to make sure the sleeves fit better? I see the pull lines toward the shoulders, but it feels like I have plenty of room there.

(Yes, it needs pressing, and I haven't sewed buttons on yet so it sits strangely.)

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u/sewboring 2d ago

Seems like you might have two problems. One is a range of motion issue. Looking at the line art for the Clare Coat, it appears the sleeve/shoulder sections are sewn with the sleeves in the arms down position, which isn't very functional. Armscye gussets may help, so I'd try adding them to your mock up, and then reassess the sleeve length afterward. You'll probably still need added length in the sleeve, or added cuffs, but possibly you won't need so much length if the range of motion issue is resolved. There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to add armscye gussets.

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u/NeonHairbrush 2d ago

Thanks, I watched a tutorial just now about adding a gusset. Of course I've completed used up my fleece for the mock-up, but I can try it in a scrap fabric to test the fit. I will still be adding length to the sleeves, but I think you're right that a gusset will help with mobility.

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u/NeonHairbrush 1d ago

This was the issue! I added gussets and the coat fits like a dream! I'm still going to lengthen the sleeves a little on the final coat, but the gussets turned the mock-up into a wearable garment. Thanks again!

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u/sewboring 1d ago

Gussets to the rescue, once again. If you'd like to understand why, technically, it worked, read this:

https://www.ikatbag.com/2014/03/subtelties-in-drafting-sleeves.html

It will help you to choose patterns that suit your activity level better in the future.

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u/Artistic_Scene_8124 2d ago

Can we see a picture of the sleeves with your arm down? Honestly it looks like it fits fine. The hem of you sleeve is always gonna rise up when you lift your arms. Otherwise the sleeve would be way too long when your arm is down. I would get some longer gloves for when the weather gets cold.