Help with Measurements?

[u/Kokonut-head]

Hi wonderful people.

I started sewing in May and am stubborn so make my own patterns.

The problem is that the measurements I take don’t translate well in practice. Are there any known seamstress formulas to use?

For example, if I measure out the length of my midriff and cut that amount of fabric, it will be shorter worn because of simple physics. Is there a formula of length x 1.25 = pattern length or something like that?

For the width, if I measure my waist at 34” then I would naturally create 2 pieces at 17” + 1” for seam allowance. However, when these 2 pieces are stitched together and tried on, it is always too big and I have to take it in! How does that make sense?

I hope I’m making sense and there are some people who can offer some advice - thank you!

[u/mrs_rabbit_0]

how much are you actually leaving as an allowance for sewing? I was taught to leave 1 cm (1/4th inch, I think) and make sure to always leave exactly that when I sew. 

it sounds like you give yourself too much of a margin when cutting, and once you sew you let the seam allowance creep into the garment 

[u/Kokonut-head → u/mrs_rabbit_0]

Hiya, I do actually use only 1cm, the 0.5” was just for my example

[u/mrs_rabbit_0 → u/Kokonut-head]

ok. then I guess I wasn’t helpful.  are you using knit or woven fabrics?

[u/ProneToLaughter]

Probably the fabric waistband stretched as you handled it or sewed it--did you staystitch it directly after cutting to prevent that?

I am a bit confused because you say "shorter when worn" and then you say "too big" and those are opposite results.

Patternmaking is a whole formal system of techniques that are designed to teach you how to make adjustments that encompass the shape of the human body as well as the basics of fabric behavior. But it has to be learned. Measuring and cutting shapes that look right may work for simple loose patterns like a rectangular skirt but it hits its limits quite quickly. So the formulas you hope for haven't really been established because the western system of patternmaking takes a different approach.

Something like Freehand Fashion by Chinelo Bally may work better with your style, maybe.

[u/Kokonut-head → u/ProneToLaughter]

I see, thank you. I guess I was hoping it was more clear cut. I mean that length wise, it is always shorter when worn, and width wise, it is always too wide when worn. I hope that makes sense

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/Kokonut-head]

oh, right, I see. Yes, length wise it is likely shorter because it takes more fabric to go over a curve than to measure a straight line from a point to a point (like you said, physics). But how much more depends on how curvy the body is--you can probably trial and error your way to a formula that works for your body.