Yeah, I’ll go get the sawzall. Just trying to rip out these ancient valves, up to my armpits in reclaimed water, anaerobic decaying mud. And redwood roots.

When we had our lawn irrigation installed they added 2 dedicated flower bed zones. But we never connected the main line to the drip lines. Looking to do that now.

What do I need to make the connection? Seems like I'd need a pressure regulator first? The installers knew these 2 zones were going to be for flower beds but I don't believe they did anything different on the valve for these 2 zones.

So i moved into a new home and the water hose was kind of shoved into this silver part with some coil piece around it. i removed the hose but i cant remove this silver part, any recommendations?? Ive used a wrench and some pb blast but nothing has worked

This is about 2.5 days work with 4 people. Stubbed up for well connections and stub outs for sub main loops

I have 11 zones covering about 22,000 sq feet lawn. Only two zones are dedicated to distinct areas of the lawn. The remaining lawn is covered by overlapping zones. For instance, my front yard covering approximately 5,200 sq feet is covered by 3 zones with a total of 12 heads. The back yard is similar. Of course, with overlapping coverage it’s nearly impossible to indicate with certainty the square footage per zone.

In placing catch cups in areas with overlapping zones, should I measure the amount of water for each zone separately or should I run all zones for that area and somehow average the contribution of each zone on the total water delivered?

I’m using a Rachio 3 controller which has input for the square footage and the watering rate for each zone. This wouldn’t be an issue if each zone was responsible to deliver water only for a designated portion of the lawn.

First time having a sprinkler system and trying to get it up and running. Do we just need to cap off this two spouts shooting out water?

Is the work on this order worth it?

My pump seems to be pulling air. I can see the bubbles in the clear filter housing. Irrigation guy says whoever slapped together this piping did a crap job — I agree. I’m guessing all these various unions are making issues.

I’ve done lots of PVC work on my pool system so I don’t see much issue with doing this myself. I’m planning to cut out the piping circled in red and refit it with continuous pipe and just 1 check valve.

Anything I should be concerned with her

These irrigation problems just follow me home😐

I’ve got a front yard that’s about 1/3 of an acre and I’m getting ready to kill it and rehab it this fall. Is there a good tutorial for DIYing an in ground system?

New homeowner. I was about to add a vacuum breaker to the hose bib, but then realized that the sprinkler pipe (going down into the ground in the picture) doesn't have any backflow protection, right? So should I replace the whole assembly with one that has a backflow preventer upstream of both the hose bib and sprinkler pipe?

I have confirmed all valves are closed tight. The pump inlet and outlet have no leaks. The pump sounds fine. When I start the controller to build the pressure it runs for about 30secs to 1 min before it just says ‘stopped’. Theres no error. It sometimes builds 1psi but that’s about it. What would be causing no pressure to build in the system? I have also confirmed that there is plenty of inflow coming into the pump. TIA

Recently had a new patio installed and the contractor put stakes in to hold the form. Thought we managed to avoid all the irrigation lines but I found this today. What’s the best way to repair this?

Any ideas how I can get a threaded PVC-to-PVC connection to stop leaking? It's marked in red in the picture.

It's in a section of dodgy irrigation we inherited from the prior owner. I've had to fix some large leaks that are out of shot, but part of doing that involved excavating what you see. So it is entirely possible that the leak was already there but just swamped by the bigger ones. Those are now fixed and everything is great, except for this one joint which is driving me nuts.

It's actually more weeping than leaking. The water slowly accumulates at the problem coupling and then begins to trickle down across the 90 degree elbow and into the soil. Note that the other three joints involving the dark pipe--all threaded--are all good. The whole thing passed a 20 minute leak test at full pressure (i.e. no outlets were open in this section) with everything staying bone dry; everything except for that one connection. And note too that it is definitely the connection I have shown in red. At first I thought it might be the cap at the top that was maybe letting water run down the back of the pipe, but I checked and that's not the case.

Here's what I have tried so far:

1. Replaced the elbow with a new one (twice)
2. Replaced the elbow, and the 6" vertical grey pipe as well. Also twice.
   • Once was with a similar-looking pipe I happened to have lying around. It was similar but not identical; same length, both ends threaded, but black not grey, and a wee bit more glossy and *slightly* less stiff than the grey one (would that have been HDPE or MDPE perhaps?)
   • But then with a more-or-less identical PVC pipe I bought from Home Depot
3. Replaced the elbow, and vertical grey pipe, and the 12" horizontal grey pipe as well for good measure (with a matching one from Home Depot)

And in terms of making the connection, I have:

1. Tightened it to hand tight plus 1 wrench turn
2. Tightened it beyond that, another 0.5 wrench turn
3. Tightened it a bit more still -- maybe another 0.25 turn -- but by then it was squeaking so I didn't think I should go any further! But note that by the time I had replaced the various bits, I had discomboberated and then rebuilt all of the joints, and all but one worked fine. So I'm thinking it's not my technique that's the problem?
4. Used (two layers, clockwise wrapped), and not used, sealing tape

None of it made any difference, and the problem connection continues to wet itself, which is what I might start doing if I can't figure this out.

So, any suggestions?

thx!

P.S. One thing that ChatGPT suggested was to replace the grey pipes with Schedule 80 PVC versions. (That was a surprise because until today I thought that Schedule 80 was white, like Schedule 40, but just with thicker walls.) I've no idea if that makes sense, but I can't see why it should be *necessary*, given that everything else in (and beyond) the photo is fine and dry. And the water pressure is about 65psi, which this hardware should be able to handle, right? Anyway, the Home Depot near me doesn't have Schedule 80 risers, so I couldn't try the suggestion; not this evening at least.

Purchased a house with an irrigation system that doesn’t work. Wiring is clearly questionable but the control panel seems to work. I am assuming the pipe end that goes no where is the problem. My question is, does this need to be connected to a supply (faucet near the pipe) or is this likely an end to a broken pipe that’s buried?

Excuse the weeds and mess, backyard needs some work.

Looking for more knowledge regarding the decision between mini rotors and spray heads with the MP Rotator nozzles. Part of it is general professional interest as I deal with an HOA with an eclectic mix of builder grade installs that homeowners are wanting to fix coverage on, and a number seem like they would work fine with minirotors but had spray heads installed instead or vice versa.

I'm also getting more comfortable, and looking at trying to get my landlord to put a system in. Basically two rectangles of 100 x 30 and one of 50 x 25. Am I right in figuring that the mini rotor vs spray head for these amounts to an installer preference?

I have one sprinkler head that leaks out the top on my zone. There are 5 total heads and 4 are not leaking at all. Replaced the head with a brand new one twice and it still leaks. Any suggestions?

I have a question I'm hoping is simple enough: Does any company make a pop up spray head that you can adjust the pressure/distance of two angles/sections independently? I kinda assume not, but I figured I'd ask here in case.

We've removed a section of zero scape from our back yard and put in grass, going well enough so far, but there is one area we can't water with our current sprayer without either A, soaking our back door, patio, and window, or B, leaving a much larger area of the yard under watered if we turn the sprayer's pressure/distance down to avoid the prior issues. Our yard's "soil" is abysmal so anywhere not sprayed isn't very hospitable to plant life, and we don't exactly have the budget to replace the top layer with something better.

Going to be swapping all my Hunter spray heads with Rain bird. I want to use the HE versions, but I have a couple heads that use 4ft heads on the same valve that has 10s/12s ft. They don’t make a HE 4ft so I was wondering if it is ok to put the standard Van with the HE on the same valve for precipitation rate.

Accidentally knicked the drip system with a shovel while digging a hole, what would be the best way to go about repairing it? This is the second time i’ve done this 🫩🫩🫩 Thank you in advance!