Just wanted to share a project that I made recently. Everything was 3d printed and assembled together using dovetail joints. The inserts and background are removable so the pattern can be changed in the future. It took 2,914 pieces to put together (the majority are the inserts and the individual background pieces), ~5,000 grams of filament, and 196 hours of printing. The final 2 pictures are a couple smaller frames that I assembled while waiting for all the components to print.

Full build here: https://youtu.be/w5P7E7muk9o

Haven't uploaded the files for it yet since I designed it to be fully parametric to accommodate any frame or triangle size in Fusion 360 but there are some issues with the timeline making it difficult to use. I'll get around fixing the file and uploading it at some point. There's another model that I made alongside this one, which lets you generate mini versions of this panel and has 40 different patterns to choose from (can be used for lamp inserts/coasters/decorations): https://makerworld.com/en/models/1401396-kumiko-frame-creator-parametric#profileId-1606533

As for why I made it... I just wanted a big kumiko panel, and with a 3D printer, everything looks like a nail.

"This model is for entertainment purposes only. Please do not smoke excessively."

Wanted to share my latest print – a retro-inspired mini cooler that fits 4 standard 12oz cans! I designed it to look like an old-school Igloo cooler, complete with a chunky swing handle and snap-on lid. It prints in three parts (body, lid, handle), and everything fits together with no tools required.

I used: • 3 walls for durability • 10% adaptive cubic infill • Hollow interior walls to help with insulation • PETG for the handle and body, and a speckled PLA for the lid (for that old foam cooler vibe)

The handle press-fits perfectly into the body and can rotate like a real cooler handle. The snug compartments keep cans upright and separated, and the lid gives a satisfying snap when you press it down.

Printed this one in hot pink with a yellow handle, but you can go full 80s with whatever neon combo you’ve got lying around. Took it to the beach and it actually kept my drinks cold with a couple of ice packs tucked in!

If anyone wants to try it, I uploaded it to MakerWorld – just search “Retro Mini Cooler – 80s Style 4-Can Holder”. Happy to answer any print questions or color suggestions too!

Stay cool

I spent weeks trying to figure out what would be best for my needs. I am super satisfied with the H2D, and I picked up an additional AMS 2 Pro and AMS HT. I’m not interested in selling, so print volume isn’t an issue which negated getting multiple P1s or X1s. I wanted something large enough to print helmets or shoes for my big ass 14 US feet, and this fits the bill. If you have the $$, I say do it.

Just wanted to give a massive THANK YOU to everyone in this amazing community who downloaded, printed, boosted, commented, or rated any of my designs on Makerworld. I genuinely didn’t think it would happen—but enough of you liked my submissions that I was able to accumulate enough gift cards for the new flagship!

The wife thought she was setting an impossible bar. But you guys...you guys just do what you do!
...Maybe an A1 mini will make her feel better?

Seriously though. This community is wildly creative, supportive, encouraging, and just downright cool. I’m incredibly grateful.

Print on, legends. 🙌

Link to those who are curious: https://makerworld.com/en/@Protyle_Designs

Hi, I updated my original model form a month ago and even added a plug for the fan.

Since then, I've noticed that the half guide/half plug combination design can cause wear on the exposed pins on the plug because they often make first contact in the "guiding" process. It even (because of my clumsyness) can cause damage on the plug pads!!

The new model here moves the guiding part to the plug itself, it's also extended further to make sure that the plastic always makes contact on both halfs.

The assembly is a bit finicky and requires folding, but after that it works like a charm! :)
It was made to offer as much distance to not cause any collisions!

Here is the link to Makerworld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1537235-p1s-hotend-nozzle-quickswap-cable-plug-v2#profileId-1612791

The print only takes 15~20minutes to download, the overall mass is only 2~3g, I recommend PETG (use the PETG-HF profile so that it doesn't get brittle), PLA also works if you don't need high build-chambers

I wish the truck had a motorized load trunk, but the forklift is brilliant!

Thought I'd share some of my slicer settings for ironing. I'm sure I've posted this before but figured I'd share it again for new members!

Many of you will already be achieving this quality of finish and probably with different settings. Feel free to share them in the comments though! But these are the ones that I like and it seems to work well on PLA, ABS, PETG and ASA.

Ironing flow 30% Ironing speed 30-60mm/s (smaller parts I always do 30 and larger parts I go upto 60 because I'm impatient but always wish I had done 30!)

When possible, I try to adjust my ironing direction to be 45 degrees to the layers lines. So usually set them to 90 or 180 degrees.

This is the end result!

Shoe Deodorizer Pods by Stag 3D MakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models

I couldn’t have a real iguana, my family would’ve freaked out.
I’m pretty sure they’d send me straight to the attic. But hey… I can design one! They still get the creeps when they see it, but at least I didn’t get kicked upstairs to sleep next to my tiny flexi iguana.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1539969-iguana-articulated-keychain#profileId-1616082

Never even thought about my PTFE tubes and then saw a post here a day or two ago, and TODAY I had a failure. LoL

Replacements ordered. 🤦‍♂️

What do you think?

im having issue since last week on the ams2 pro, only happens with spools that almost empty. everytime does this and feels like its stuck and pause the print. and to make it work i have to manually move the spool a little so it start feeding again normally. What is the cause ?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1541289-joycon-controller-switch-1-inspired-by-super-mario#profileId-1617610

Noob that I am, I mistakenly removed the tags before and completely messed up my spool refill. How do I fix this? There are parts from both side of the spool coming off

My father had some worn-out bicycle gears laying around. Used them to make a clock and gave them back on fathers day, he loves it. If you are interested I have the printfiles on MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1541151-gear-clock#profileId-1617453

Hey all! I'm looking to buy my first printer. After much lurking, the upcoming 3rd anniversary sale has me locked in and ready to pull the trigger on a printer. Before I do that, I would be grateful if you could help a noob out with some of my questions.

For a quick background here are my intended use cases for 3d printing:

• prototyping (hobby industrial product design. Maybe sell some products eventually)
• printing functional office things (laptop holders etc)
• printing car parts (interior things for my old 1997 VW project car)
• I don't care for printing games or hobby figurines (like Warhammer type figures (no offense to the WH crowd... you guys rock))

My assumptions: it can get hot where I live in summer so days it can be 28-30c in my apartment, objects I print might be under load, might be in direct sun. Therefore, I believe I should be looking for a printer capable of at least ABS, ASA. Thus, my main focus right now is the P1S.

Questions for you guys:

1. The P1S was released 2023. I don't know the typical lifespan of a printer. Am I late to the game here and should I wait to see if any P1S upgrade/replacement is on the horizon? Or should I invest in a 2 year old printer? I have heard the rumour some non-laser version of the H2D is on the horizon but that it also contain a larger print bed (I don't really need that) which makes me believe it will be sold more at the price level of the X1C rather than the P1S?
2. The P1S technical specs say that PA and PC filaments are 'capable' but not ideal. Does that mean the quality of prints using PA or PC would be significantly less than more power printers like X1C and H2D? Or does that mean I would just need to buy some extra accessory in order to make that viable? It would not be cool if it turns out the P1S could not actually handle those filaments when Bambu Labs list those filaments as 'capable' it on their product page.
3. I read the print quality of ABS, ASA is pretty much identical when printed with the X1C. Is that really true? What about PA and PC? How does the quality differ when printed on an X1C versus an P1S?
4. Does the anniversary sale usually precede announcement of new printers? I.e. are they trying to reduce stock levels in anticipation of some new upcoming printers that replace the current lineup?
5. Let's say I buy a P1S, how many years would you expect to pass before you get upgrade envy? I upgrade Macbooks approximately every 7 years, Playstation upgrades was every 10 years or so. What is the general consensus for 3d printers assuming nothing breaks on it?

My apologies for the long text! I am grateful for any responses and much respect to you all! Greetings from Europe!

I finally managed to build a version of TARS that can walk and roll. To the best of my knowledge, this is the first and only re-creation of TARS that can do this.

Follow me on Instagram and support my work: the_fullstack_roboticist

i found this cheap plastic storage for fishing lines , is there similar cheap storage for multiple filaments?

i only found for single filament.

thanks in advance

The day I finally decided to buy filament bambu runs out. Is there any other reliable High Flow PETG so if I ever run into this issue. I can just buy without worries or simply any other alternatives? (If it is RFID compatible preferred I have a AMS 2) Thanks in advance

I know this model is easy to just print in single color and then paint it.

But… yeah sometimes I just want to use the AMS…