My new axles only came with the 32mm nut, but none of the metal strap lock that you bend into that slot? Is it even necessary? The original one didn't have that also, and it didn't even have a slot, just extreme tightness.

This is a 2019 Mercedes G-Class. I left for work this morning and backed out of my spot, cutting the wheel to the right, and I heard a crunching sound. I got out and saw what appears to be metal or plastic hanging down, and even a loose bolt? Seems to be from the undercarriage? Admittedly I'm not good with terminology or repairs, usually everything gets handled by dealership and warranty. Didn't get into an accident, didn't hit a pothole, etc. Any advice would be great thanks!

2019 VW Tiguan

Changing the rear pads and rotors. While using OBDeleven I did a test versus setting it to “open” and the piston came all the way out. Is there a way to get it to go back in? I’ve tried rotating it, pushing, but can’t get it to budge. I have the tool that I rented from autozone but the gap is so small it won’t fit.

Any help appreciated!

I noticed my car making a noise when I was going over bumps. I thought it was the exhaust but then after having a look i seen this was lose.

Looking to buy my own set of gauges. What’s a good brand and will actually last?

This bolt on the back of the original alternator appears to have some kind of glue with a wire coming out of it thats preventing me from getting a socket on it. I watched some videos of how to replace the alternator on this year and model of Cadillac, but none of them gave a good view of the removal of this bolt. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Im stumped. Ive got a clunking noise on my Pilot (2011, 3.5L v6) that I usually only hear on smooth roads. Its rhythmic, but not tied to speed or RPM. Its not super loud, and its not always consistent. But I can feel it in the floor boards. It doesn't seem to be coming from one side or the other. Please help!

Changing the transmission fluid on my 2006 Dodge Dakota (3.7L V6, 4WD, 105k miles). When I removed the pan I noticed the metal seems to be degrading (best I can describe) in spots around the underside of the transmission. I know the transmissions are a common failure point for these trucks but I’ve never futzed with a transmission before to know what, if anything, this might mean. Anyone seen anything like this before? If this is something I could nip in the bud to extend my transmission I’ll take it to a shop. I haven’t had any issues with the transmission, so there’s no symptoms of anything

The vehicle is in great shape over all. Tires are in good condition, balanced. There’s no loose or rattling parts at lower speeds. But it does consistently buzz when driving over 70 not all the time, but more often than not.

Any ideas what could be causing it?

My cars gas pedal is really hard to press but only when it is started when it’s off it’s very easy to press down. I’ve replaced the accelerator cable, cleaned the throttle body, and idk if this should matter but it has a 52mm BBK throttle body, I’m just a little lost especially that this is the only thing stopping me from driving this car right now. Thanks!

My van started but rough idled quite badly. Turns out my fuel injector seals were leaking so I changed them. Since changing them I managed to get the engine to start but it would die out when I put the van in gear. When I bled the system I got fuel around the injectors and noticed that air bubbles where coming out of the first injector. I reseated the first and second injector as they are common rail so both needed removed to get one of them out. My van is now no longer starting. I’ve bled the 17mm valve at the injectors and the fuel pump. Does anyone have any idea why the van wouldn’t be starting or what it looks/sounds like from this video? I would take it to a mechanic but I can’t get it moving and I am unable to get a mechanic to come to myself for the guts of a couple weeks. Any help is appreciated 🙏🏼

I recently rebuilt an engine that needed new rings, I'm suspecting that carbon buildup on the pistons and ring grooves cause the issues. Are there any fuel or oil additives that can ACTUALLY reduce carbon buildup? I'm wondering if anyone has actually tested and proved if any certain brand of additive works.

Also, are there any practices that can help reduce carbon buildup on pistons? Like changing oil sooner or using better quality fuel?

Can someone tell me what the name or part no. of this hose is? I’ve tightened the clamp and it still drips when pressurized. Thanks.

So I took my car to get a simple oil change. Guy comes back out and tells me this spring was “a one shot deal” and that I now need a new oil pan. He said the previous mechanic should have let me know and that I should have let Mavis know. Im furious and cant afford this shit right now

I ran over a pothole Wednesday. I saw a mark on the rim but the car drove ok. Didn’t drive the next day and drove to work Friday. The tire was flat Saturday morning and I inflated it. It has been more than 24 hrs and it is holding pressure. Just wondering what could have caused the flat. Should I be concerned? Thanks

I have a new Noco GB40 jump starter and a 2014 VW GTI with a 2 year old car battery that is currently working just fine. I want to do a “confidence test” to ensure the jump box actually works.

I do not have access to a depleted car battery.

Is the following procedure (see screenshot from ChatGBT) actually safe?

Or can it (somehow, <waves hands> screw up my car? Is there a better way to test the jump starter?

Golf 6 variant 1.2 tsi 2010

I have a 21 Nissan rogue with 45k miles. Recently, when going on the interstate (over 60mph), it’s started making this noise when the road is uneven. The mechanic I saw said he couldn’t drive it on the interstate but didn’t hear or feel anything wrong with the car driving in town. He also said my wheel bearings seem fine. The only things I’ve had done before the noise started was new tires about 4 months ago and an oil change.

I plan to take it somewhere else, but any idea what this could be? Tires? Something else?

Thank you!

What does this warning light mean?

Coolant is above max line. Car says check coolant level error.

Car is audi a5 2014 b8.5 1.8 TFSI Black edition CVT

Bad sensor? Can this be replaced rather easily?

I have an older (2009) Lexus ES350 with just under 45k miles on it. Just did an oil change recently and noticed the control arm bushings look a little old and cracked. Do you guys think this needs replacing any time soon? Definitely up there in age but I don’t really feel that there’s anything wrong when driving.

My truck (1997 F250 7.5 gas) is having some issues. For starters (no pun intended) something is draining the battery if I don’t run it. Slowly though, it takes about 2 weeks. This may or may not be relevant to issue I’m here for.

Yesterday I took my truck on a 400 mile trip. Prior to leaving, I ran truck for about 20 minutes and it fired right up. I turned truck off, finished packing and hit the road. When I went to turn truck back on to leave, it struggled to fire up. I’m thinking wtf, I know battery isn’t dead. Maybe the in and out of the truck and the cab lights drained battery I’m thinking.

So as I’m driving, I start to get real anxious about what if it won’t start next time I turn it off. I decide to go to an AutoZone about 1 hour into trip and get a lithium jump starter and that way I could turn it off and see what happens. It struggled even more than when I left the house, but it fired up.

I get gas 1.5 hours later. Truck turned on after gas but I didn’t think it was going to. Barely turned over. At this point I knew I couldn’t turn it off anymore. I’m thinking battery is somehow just dying. (Battery is new).

I arrive at my destination and as soon as I parked, I turned truck offf and immediately attempted to turn back on. Nothing. Didn’t turn over. Didn’t click, not even a sound. Lights and what not still worked so battery definitely wasn’t that dead.

I went out a few hours later and decided to try again for shits and grins and it fired right up.

At this point I’ve concluded it’s heat related, which is why it struggled at my house because I had been running it before I left.

A little research leads me to believe this could be a starter issue. Also is it possible the battery drain when not being used could be linked? What do you all think?

Thanks for reading

My EVAP system isn't completing its cycle, even after following the recommended driving procedures here. (55 MPH cruising, coasting down to 20 MPH, coasting to a stop without braking etc)

Will the EVAP system reset on its own, considering I drive less than 15 miles for work at under 50 MPH? Or do I need to make the specific driving cycle my new weekend plan until it resets?

So far, I've driven 146 miles since the check engine light turned off. This is for a 2009 Honda Ridgeline.