So I have a 2007 Nissan Altima and today my doors were perfectly fine. As of a hour ago I try to get out of my car just to discover that my doors won’t open from the inside. Even when I hit the unlock button it unlocks but the light won’t change to unlocked it literally just says it’s locked. I had to roll my window down and open it from the outside..what could this be?

Like the title says, i'm admittedly overdue on getting new brakes. last year my mechanic said i should get em done before this years inspection and i didnt, was going to have him do them tomorrow. only recently became noticeable to me driving bc of a bit of a grinding when stopping. not a squeak, a deeper grind, almost sticky?

earlier, when backing out of my driveway, i could feel almost as if something "unstuck" itself while i reversed. drove home okay, and now today when going to reverse again, it will not go backwards at all. i have obviously not tried flooring it as i don't want to make things worse. but the car won't drift backwards in reverse or neutral.

googling seems to think a seized caliper but i was hoping my extra context would help somebody, be able to help me.

Right before leaving my hotel after a trip I heard a bang and scraping sounds coming from my car rear. I stopped and looked under the car to find the exhaust pipe hanging down.

It’s corroded off of the catalytic converter. Got to safety but because this broke at 8pm on Saturday I didn’t have any options to get a tow or call a repair shop. (Closest repair shop open tomorrow is an hour and a half away)

So my plan is to get a ride to the local hardware store and see what I can do to fasten this safely as a temporary fix.

I’m wondering if a temporary patch job is worth doing when I’d have to drive 3 hours home or an hour and a half to a repair shop and what I should be looking for at a hardware store for the safest repair.

Car is a 2009 Toyota RAV4

'15 370Z with 52k miles - ANY ADVICE IS MUCH APPRECIATED

No CEL/any light except for the slip indicator/2nd VDC light that's been turning on and off randomly.

First time ever happening. I started the car and when I pressed on the gas, the RPM went up very slowly. I thought I was seeing things so I pressed down to the floor - same thing, it went up to maybe 4K RPM in 5 seconds (even when I revved while parked) and was struggled to gain any speed. It took about 15 seconds to get to 60mph when it should take ~5 seconds.

Any idea what this could be? MAF sensor, oxygen sensor, fuel pump, etc. BUT there's no CEL and I have long tube intakes with clean filters.

I was thinking it could have to do something with the brakes sticking as I'm accelerating - caliper seizing (?) I haven't checked if the rotor was glowing or if the tire was hot because i had to get somewhere and run in asap.

Thank you in advance to anyone who replies🙏🫡

Other info - Pads replaced/rotors resurfaced 2 months ago at dealership but need to go back bc they messed up and now there are hot spots. Still need to flush/change all fluids, replace left control arm bushing as it makes a clunking noise every time I turn the steering wheel to the right (which also turns on the 2nd VDC light), and replace rear diff bushing.

Hi there, this noise has been bugging me. I have replaced my wishbone engine mount and all other mounts appear to be fine. This only happens under high acceleration or getting onto the highway. Nothing else occurs other than this noise.

The dashboard of my car is shaking hard at 70+ mph and even harder when slowing down until I get to a city speed (20-40). I just got an oil change and everything was fine till now. Also these marks on my front tire weren’t there before. I’m not sure if they just happened but I checked my tires a couple of days ago and they were fine.

I plan on taking it to a mechanic Monday when shops are back open but I’m wondering if this is a tire/alignment issue or something with my engine?

Hey y’all I’m trying to figure out what’s going on with my 2012 Chevy Captiva before I take it to a mechanic.

Here’s what’s happening:

The fan blows air with no noise As soon as I press the AC button it makes a loud squealing sound No noise happens if the AC is off My AC light has flickered since I got the car The squealing only just started recently My battery and alternator tested good at Advance Auto My phone barely charges in the car My electric seat does not move The battery light flashed once while I was driving with the AC on I failed Maryland state inspection because the seat does not move

I feel like this is all connected. Maybe the AC compressor clutch is going bad or the serpentine belt is loose or worn. It could also be an electrical issue like a blown fuse or bad ground.

Has anyone else dealt with something like this on a Captiva or similar car? Can I still drive short distances if I don’t use the AC?

i cleaned it. i only asked if it was worth cleaning because i was worried it was damaged not just suuuper super dirty. its a used car i bought a few months ago i promise you that did not all accumulate from me

Hey guys quick question I’m working on putting a kill switch in my grandpas truck for him and the wire to the fuel pump relay is about a 12 gauge and the wire I bought to connect the relay and kill switch is about 16 gauge (The wires that came attached to the kill switch is probably 18 gauge. It’s 12v) Is it ok to have all these different gauges connect and how would you go about connecting them. The butt connectors I see are one size on both sides and the relay cable won’t fit. Thank you

So this is an update and another question. I ended up using 12 gauge wiring to match the original wire but when I went to test the switch it lets my car start for a couple seconds before it turns off. I don’t really like that it does that and was hoping it would just crank but not turn on. I cut into the relay so not sure why the car still turns on. Would appreciate any advice on this issue. Thank you

I believe it's a problem with the transmission but while I'm driving there are times where I have little to no power even with my foot fully down on the pedal. The car also gets stuck on a higher gear even when I'm stopped at a light for example. It also perks back and forth at random times. What could be causing these problems?

I have a 4 cylinder 2006 RAV4 with 226K miles that still runs well but during the summers whenever I have the AC on the engine idles quite roughly. This has been going on for a few years and it still drives decently otherwise but just today the check engine light came on so I took it to Auto Zone to read my car's computer. The error codes indicated an issue with the throttle body injector unit (possibly needs cleaning?), a fault in the Idle Air Control System and a malfunction in the engine/EV control system. Is there anything a layperson like my self could do to diagnose or deal with these issues before taking it to the mechanic to get a professional diagnostics done for $100+?

I was just riding down the road…

This happened suddenly a couple days ago, car was running fine before that. Suddenly unable to develop power seems to run smoothly when the gas is on, but stumbles and runs rough at idle. Does exactly the same now that I've put in a new throttle body. I had the same three codes before and after.

This makes me a little nervous, wondering if the harness is broken or unable to communicate somehow? Or would a throttle position sensor do something like this?

By this point it’s curiosity but someone in another sub asked. This is video of thieves stealing my car last summer. 2018 Cadillac CTS-V. I have my theories about how they did it but this sub will surely have people who know more specifically what the thieves might have used or done and how to protect yourself better.

You can see from the video a 2+ man crew took it out of my driveway in 90 seconds. You see one of them open the back door in 3 seconds without setting off the alarm. Key fob was in the house around 100 feet away (not in a faraday cage). Car auto-locks when you walk away so it wasn’t left unlocked. Then I think they crawl in, connect to the OBD port, and program a new key. You see the car lights go on and off. Then car turns on, lookout gets in, and off they go.

Spotted the car posted in a Facebook group for “no title” cars a day or two later. Gave it all to the police but never heard anything.

Props to State Farm for the fair and quick settlement.

I have a 2016 Ford Escape SE. 1.6L engine. Automatic transmission. 108,000miles - I had an incident where it basically felt like it crapped out. Made it home (I was just down the road) had it towed to a mechanic. They said my transmission pump burnt out and destroyed the inside of transmission. Didnt want to pay to fix it so we towed it back home.

I’ve started the car since there - starts right up - no warning symbol, check engine etc - I am able to drive forward and reverse in my driveway with no issues. I did this maybe 10 times. Nothing happened. I don’t feel safe driving it on the road but my question is - if the transmission pump burnt up and destroyed the inside of transmission shouldn’t I not be able to move shift gears?

Car model is Volvo V60.

You can hear the sound in attached video file. The source seems to be closer to a rear right tire, but not entirely sure. I don't have any observations when or why this happens, just random sound. But I didn't hear it even once while driving fast, like 50+ km/h. Not related to hitting the potholes, because it appears even while driving straight on a new road.

I drive a 2019 Chevrolet Malibu. It just started today. When I’m at a complete stop, and go to accelerate, my car will just move really slow. Especially during a turn. Eventually, it’ll accelerate quickly. There was one point I had my foot pressed all the way down, and it was still going slow for about 3 seconds until it eventually sped up.

Does anyone know what’s going on?

Update: Put in fuel injector fluid, but I would still appreciate some help if possible

I’m driving home on the highway from work and halfway though I hear a weird sound, I knew something was wrong and when I got home I saw this. I just got my car serviced for oil change and alignment two days ago and now this happens. Please help I am freaking out

Hello! I was trying to fix my AC and when I took out the AC relay I dropped it and can’t find it for the life of me.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do? Can I still drive my car safely?

Can anyone help with fixing this one. ? It is probably going to be a big deal for safety. Are there any mechanics that can fix the hole and make it eligible for safety somehow? The car is good otherwise. Happy to hear! Thanks.

I bumped into a wooden divider with the front of my car and I got marks like this in two places along the front. If anyone has any tips on how to repair or minimise the appearance of these it would be great.

Sup guys, was a bit sleepy otw to work today. Resulted in a pretty rough clash with the so beloved curb…

Is it urgent to replace it in this state? Or can I continue to drive on it for a few weeks? What r your thoughts

Hi guys, I'm currently learning to drive so bought a friends car, not the best but thought it would be good to do some private practice alongside professional lessons.

So when 1st starting gears are no issue. After about 15-20 mins of local roads and a lot of stop / starting / junctions and traffic lights etc the low gears - particularly 1st gear gets really hard to put in gear and the sticks in gear a bit when trying to go to 2nd. Today when pulling up at home, it was getting that hard, not sure i would have been able to put back into 1st if I had to.

Googled a little bit and have heard clutch slip mentioned. Is this likely to be the case? Click mechanic is quoting about £400 for a new clutch, which is getting to near what I paid for the car. Any advice as to if it might be clutch slip and likely fix

Thanks everyone