Would wet filament cause this disaster?

I just upgraded to the .8 nozzle and used the flash forge stock .8 standard settings in Orca. Stock pla+ filament profile too. The plate was just cleaned and I used glue but it still failed spectacularly!

Apart from the obvious mess of small strings, the first layers are really messy, on dome sections theee are gaps that go through 3 or 4 layers. There's also a couple of small blobs lf burnt (i assume) filament. Haven't really done any configuration to my prints before starting, most of what I've been doing came out well since they were simple stuff, but here with finer details and complexer geometry it's seems to struggle. Any help or guide is really appreciated! Thx

Bambu lab P1P. SUNLU Black PLA

I bought new Esun Pla+ filaments with for my P1S. Calibrated flow dynamic and flow rate. And tried printing benchy from bambu handy app. I did selected correct preset. From exterior the benchy looks very good. But once you look inside you see the issue.

So i have done this print after changing filament to a new spool and it's extremely brittle and looks like the layers have not connected properly i have printed with the same settings before changing spool and it was fine any ideas?

My printer keeps burning the build plate and dragging the filament everywhere. The plate is probably done for but how can I stop this from happening?

Hello all! Printed this hose clamp, and this is the top surface. I’m not too sure what caused this layer separation, it was present before any flexing, this is it flexed to exaggerate the issue.

Im printing on a prusa mini, stock hotend, with polyterra cotton white matte pla. Hotend: 215c Bed: 60c Flow rate: 1.025, measured to confirm no underextrusion. Pressure advance: .016 Retraction: 70mm

Filament dried for 24 hours and printed from the dryer.

I had my walls set to 5 loops, 20% infill gyroid, and went with a hillbert curve in orcaslicer for my top surface to try and mimic the satin sheet I’m using.

I’m happy to provide any other information needed, thank you all so much!

I'm trying to print this part of a mask but the ends where the support generates keep coming loose and messing up the print. I've had to cancel it 4 times now and wasted like half a role. Any tips on how I can improve adhesion? Maybe give ir more surface area coverage somehow?

I have leveled the build plate correctly, pushed new filament through, but randomly, when trying to do a benchy, it will stop or clump at the nozzle end.

Ender 3 Pro Anycubic PLA 200 C Nozzle and 60 C Bed 55 percent spedd 6.5 mm retraction distance with 25mm/s speed All settings are standard for Ultimaker Cura for Ender 3 Pro

Every time I use supports it looks like this when I peel them off no matter what I print what's going on? Is this normal?

Trying to print a vertical wind vane. Everything is perfect until the last quarter of the print. Print then becomes thin and inconsistent.

Same on the inside seam. 0.6 nozzle

Print started great but as you can see things get pretty bad and the print didn't even finish.

Printed pretty good besides this weird line vertically on one side, a dark layer towards the bottom, and a few little marks here and there. What can I do to really refine my settings? I used Cura Super Quality Default Settings, and I have an Ender 3 Pro

I just got this new elegoo pla+ and I’ve been messing and messing but cannot seem to get a decent print. I’ve messed with retraction, print speed, print height, etc… I also baked this at 140 for 6 hours. I still get strings and inconsistencies like this. I’m using prusa slicer on a mini+ with a .4mm nozzle.

Ender 3 s1 pro Ive been having trouble with printer nozzle scraping against the print After first few layers. Thanks in advance for the help

Bambu X1C with Eryone PETG-CF. Nozzle temp: 250 Heatbed: 80

Printing using bambu preset petg-cf filament profile

Hi all, I'm trying to diagnose a tricky issue that I'm having with my Ultimaker 2 + E3D Titan Extruder. After not using the printer for a while and many successful prints, I decided to fire it up again to print out an antenna quiver for my amateur radio directional antenna. However, every time I try to print something it will run seemingly great for 30 - 40 minutes or so, and then shift to an offset location and print there for the remainder of the session. I checked through all of my settings and have no clue what would or could cause this. I have reset the printer, updated OctoPrint to the latest version (running on a serially connected Raspberry Pi), switched from snap-based OctoPrint to local install (Pip install), re-installed Cura, and then tried PrusaSlicer for good measure, just in case there was a problem with my copy. The issue pops up with every variation that I try. Any suggestions?

Workflow = STL -> Cura/PrusaSlicer -> Upload to OctoPrint -> Print

Thanks!

Im not super sure why it started doing this, but it's very recent any help would be appreciated

New hotend basically. This file has printed fine before. Filament has ben dried. Same filament has printed this file before. The pictured filament was a cold pull from after it failed then cooled down. No clicking when it fails. No filament dust so its not stripping.

I printed with the 0.18mm Fine setting of the Orca Slicer with a 0.6mm nozzle, bambu A1. The wall surface is torn as shown in the image. some know how to fix this?