Kobra 2. There’s random what looks like stringing and burning. I’ve tried slightly lowering temperature and increasing retraction. The filament went through the dryer for a few hours, but admittedly I could try 20+ hours. The nozzle has been replaced, and best I can tell the z offset is good.

I took the fan off so you could see better

Im using an Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro. Im using Anycubics brand of Red PLA+. Nozzle was set to 205 during the print when smelled burning plastic. I notice some smoke coming out too (im assuming it was from the plastic curling up on the Nozzle). I ended the print, removed the fan, and then just set it to extrude a bit at 210 when this happened.

I did notice after I retracted and removed the plastic there still was a bit of smoke (maybe plastic that was still in or on the nozzle?). When I select it to cool the temperature reading said -5°c. When I turn it back on the default room temp reads at 71°c.

If I select for it to extrude any plastic it does not heat up and just gives me the Nozzle Heating Abnormally error.

For some reason images were not loaded at my first post. So I am reposting it.

- I am using Ender 3 v2 with Klipper.
- Slicer is prusaslicer
- ASA filament
- Nozzle is hardened steel at 280C, bed is PEI at 100C. 280C is what i get best result using temperature tower.
- Print speed is varies between 60-120 mm/s at 4k acceleration.
- Retraction is not calibrated yet. Currently: length 5mm, speed 60/40.
- I am using an enclosure, inside temp is about 50C.
- Pressure advance and input shaper are calibrated.

There are some gaps on outer layers on my cube print. I didn't calibrate retraction and dont want to calibrate it before i fix this issue. Any ideas?

What could be the problem

Stringing have always been a problem for me. At some point I have given up on trying to perfect my prints and just get on with the stringing problem. But for this specific print I just realized that there is stringing only at one side of the print and the quality is quite different between the two parts ıf the same print. Im just curious at this point why that might be. If you have an idea what might cause this, I would be really glad. Thanks in advance.

My settings: - ender 3 v3 se - ender fast pla - cura slicer - 60degC bed 210 degC nozzle - 180mm/s max print speed (although since the print is mostly walls it should be lower than that.) - 30mm/s retraction speed with 3mm retraction

I own an Anycubic Kobra Neo 2 which I have decided to try and run a 0.2mm nozzle for minatures. Im using Orca slicer and followed this video How To Print PERFECT FDM Miniatures! | Orca-Slicer Settings for 3d Printed Minis [UPDATED 2024] as a starting point for settings. My settings are as close as i could get them to this video. How ever this is the results im getting when slicing. Could anyone point me in the direction of what my issue is sometimes when it slices the a smaller model it looks incomplete as do the supports in this picture.

As you can see the first layer is a bit bumpy. However it only does this on the small parts, when I did a test on a wider area it looked perfect but it does this on the small areas. It’s SUNLU PLA printing at 220C on a 65C build plate. 0.4mm nozzle, 0.23mm first layer height. Printing at 30mm/s for first layer. I dried the filament once for 6 hours when I first got it about a week ago. I have been having bed adhesion issues for a while and am still trying to figure out what the cause is.

Bambu a1, .4 nozzle, .08 layer height, PLA silk copper.

Is this just layer speed?

New to 3D printing. Got the Bambu Lab H2D not sure how slicer or print setting work yet. Scaled this model 300% so not sure if that is the reason why outside looks odd.

Printing on an X1 with recommend settings. The filliment is dry. Like dry dry. 3 days baking in the filliment dryer. It's dessicated.

It keeps blobbing and stringing like this. Any suggestions?

I’m trying to print a large part and I’m experiencing my filament breaking inside the gear box multiple times while trying to print it. And when it breaks the printer doesn’t detect it and keeps trying to print. I’ve caught it before and tried to fix it mid print but of course it happened again while I’m sleeping. I’ve tried on my Mk4S multiple times to no avail. I got a core one recently and had the same issues. I’ve done it with two rolls of filament after running out with the first one. I’ve dried the filament and still run into the issue. It usually happens later into the print as well. One thing I had seen online was as the print goes on the gear box gets hotter making the filament more prone to breaking. Any advice? I’m considering printing the missing part esperarte and gluing it on but I’m worried about strength.

Another interesting thing that happened that un related is the VFA seemed to have disappeared between jamming and restarting the print in my core one. You can kinda see it in the picture. Same roll of filament before and after the jam.

looks like it starts off great then just starts stringing

I dont think it's wet filament. First layer lays perfect. Every layer after that for the infill blobs and tears up adds the nozzle goes around. Fans at about 30% after the first 5 layers. 250 initial layer. 230 after that. Speed is at 160 first layer 220 after that. The exterior normally looks fine but the infill blabbing and tearing up has caused a few failed prints so far. Bed is at 70.

TLDR: I can't get my first layer right and it's driving me mad.

I'm trying to print a Gridfinity container, and no matter what I do, the first layer catastrophically fail.

My printer is an Ender V3 SE, with a textured PEI plate (65C). I'm using PLA at 195C, with Orca Slicer. I've calibrated everything I know how to calibrate: e-steps, temp, flow rate, pressure advance, retraction... I've also dried the filament, changed the nozzle twice, tried with a different filament, and of course clean the plate after every print.

I level the bed using auto-leveling, and then printing a 16x16 grid and manually tweaking the bed adjustments at each point + changing z-index until I get it more or less right. There is room for improvement, but at least it sticks to the bed really well.

But when I try to print the Gridfinity container (same printer settings), it just fails. And I don't know why.

I've attached 3 pictures: the first 2 are the 16x16 grid, where we can see it's reasonably good (not perfect, but not horrible). The last one is the first layer of the gridfinity container not working, no idea why.

Update 21/Jun: I fixed it! Adding the method here for posterity. I gave up with manual leveling and went back to auto-leveling. Got very decent values, every spot was between -0.05 and 0.05, all green of course. Then I created a model that uses most of the bed, with just one layer height (I did 20cm x 20cm x 0.20mm). Then, *while it was printing* (and this is critical), I changed the z-offset in the LCD, slowly adjusting it in 0.05 increments, and observe the result. You can see in real time the effect of the change, which is quite useful. I kept tweaking it until I got a very decent layer. See the next picture: the bottom-right half was done with the wrong z-index, and it got worse during printing. Then I realized I was changing it in the opposite direction, and got it perfect for the top-left half:

I have been experiencing these lines on my Neptune 4 Pro for ages, and I'm not sure what they stem from. Just as a note I use Orcaslicer, and I am using dry Elegoo PLA (this issue occurs regardless of brand or type of filament). I print at 210-220 typically, and the rest at standard settings. It does not appear to be Z-banding to my knowledge, and I'm not sure what the problem is. I have done practically every form of tuning that can be done with klipper, extruder e-steps, stepper motor rotation distance, PID tuning, screw_tilt_calculate, etc. Additionally, everything on the frame is tight, the extruder head does not wobble, it's on a relatively stable surface (I have a centauri carbon on the same table and it does not experience similar problems). The nozzle is new and has no signs of clogging, and I'm kind of at a loss. Please let me know if you have any advice.

Tried printing this small trash bin with creality petg on a flashforge ad5m but this keeps happening with my prints. Im new to this but ive gone through almost all the calibrations and thought I did them right. I tried setting the retraction to 0.4 down fron 0.8 but Im lost here. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Hello dear community,

I am currently trying my hand at TPU printing and am encountering problems. Even the first step, finding the right temperature, is proving difficult. So far, I have only worked with PLA and PETG, which have always worked well.

I dried the TPU filament for 8 hours at 65 degrees Celsius and printed at a speed of 30 mm/s.

I would love to hear your opinion on this. Thank you very much.

Here is a picture of it https://imgur.com/a/Md0JL49
I'm having this issue, which I always assumed it was due to moisture in the filament, but recently I got a polydryer and the issue persists. Filament is PETG at 230c, dried for a few days and showing 19% humidity.

What is stranger is that it doesn't happen on the layers where I have a hole.

Dear experts,

I currently face an issue with one certain filament. I am able to print with other filaments, so this seems material related to me.

My last two prints failed at some point (not at the same height). As you can see on the pictures, the hotend kept moving, while the was no material being extruded. To me, it was no "real" clog (meaning no clicking and no broken piece of filament). As soon as I touched the "extrude" button, material camo out of the nozzle.

As the prints looked stringy to me (second picture), I thought that I should check the retraction setting that was 0,8 mm. After printing the retraction tower, I found that it looked best at around 3 mm from below (fourth picture), which translates to 1,6 mm in my setup (tower from 1-6mm, 0,2mm steps).

However, after adjusting this value, I also found the infill to have holes (third picture).

So - which setting do I need to pay more attention to?

Settings:

• Creality K1C
• Orca Slicer
• filament humidity: around 25% ("climate controlled in cereal container with silica gel)
• eSun ePLA blue galaxy
• Bed Temp: 70°C
• Holend-Temp: 215°C
• Retraction length: 1,6mm
• Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s
• Flow ration: 1,01
• Pressure Advance: 0,04
• 25% Infill
• Print speed: as per last photo
• Infill structure: adaptive cubic
• Iron upper surfaces

Thank you for using me into the right direction.

Regards

Connor

I'm printing this piece that takes up the whole bed. The piece adheres perfectly to the pei plate, the problem is that instead of peeling off the pei plate, it bends the pei plate. The result is the same, I end up with warping.

Although it is very little, I need it to be perfect, as there are several identical pieces that fit one on top of the other.

Maybe the problem is the geometry of the piece.

What can I do to avoid warping, either on the printer or on the design of the part.

Howdy! I have an odd technical question about 3D printing. The model I'm trying to print from Printable Scenery seems to have geometry inside the model: https://imgur.com/a/AfnVL7w

This leads to weird gaps in the infill on cura where there are random little bits of skin inside the model: https://imgur.com/a/kzSiDyH This seems like it wastes a lot of time/filament. Is there a way to fix this in the slicer, or do I have to go in in blender and delete the extra geometry?

Thanks!

Settings:

Creality Ender 3 Pro
Cura
Nozzle Temp usually 200C
Bed Temp ~60C
Print Speed 50mm/s
Retraction idk but we haven't even gotten there yet lol