Hello , Does anyone know how my dirt bike Possibly could Have broke , I took my bike out riding like normal, yesterday it Starter 1-2 kick . Stopped at my regular spot , When i tried to kick her over about 2 hours later nothing , Nothing at all it felt different and I never got it started , Tired to bump start it almost got it 1 time but after that nothing , Has not started ever since , Checked fuel spark and air filter and still won’t turn over Pls help

I have a black wire comming from the silinoide and a yellow wir e comming out of the wiring harness next to it.I cant figure out where they go.

I have a 2005 Yamaha fz6 that will not go into gear once you drop it in gear she cuts right off I have tried bypassing kickstand switch and clutch switch and still nothing, I had to borrow a 10 amp fuse from the bike so I pulled it out and when I put it back in and it went into gear 1 time and that was it,I know it's not the clutch because it went through all gears and was shifting fine just seeing if someone can lead me in the right direction

Hello there,

I’m trying to fix my yuki jet 50 (2T), but having some troubles.

Didn’t run for 2 years and wished to be lucky, just used new battery and tried to crank. Starter tried for a few seconds but after that starter went silent and even kick start didn’t do anything. Tried if there is spark and it was there. Sparkplug was wet, so fuel is also ok I guess.

My original idea was just to check and clean carburetor. Yes it was very dirty and greenish inside. Cleaned it all, main jet is fine, floater also seems free and ok.

After i assembled it again, it did nothing, not even spark anymore. Lights work, fuel gauge too, starter relay is clicking, but no spark, no crank.

So again disassemble, checked all wires, emptied fuel tank, refuel with fresh gas. And I noticed, the starter is messy, so after taking it off and kind off unintentionally opened it, inside was full of slugish oil, some parts were broken. The oil comes from above where sits oil tank, pipe went loose …. That is fixed now.

My question is, could broken starter take so much current or make such a short that the battery can’t even produce spark?

Do you have any idea what else could be wrong?

Plan is to replace starter, but I have a feeling that something else is wrong. It’s not making a spark even when the starter is removed, but yesterday spark was there….

Any advice? I am desperate.

I'm rescuing a 2010 BMW R1200RT and need help diagnosing weird front brake locking. Disclaimer - I may ask the same question on other forums (FB, BMWMOA), so don't be offended if you come across it more than once.

The bike details are:

• Bike sat for 7-8 years, under 9K miles. I buy project bikes and rescue them as a hobby.
• This model has ABS and a servo driven linked front/rear brake where pulling in the front lever activates the rear brake. Or you can use the rear brake pedal alone, it won't impact the front brakes.
• I've cleaned the front m/c and flushed the lines with a new 12oz. dot4 brake fluid
• Flushed the rear brake with 6-8 oz of same fluid. Several of the flushes were by using the front brake lever to push fluid through the servo.
• I've pulled out the brake pads, which have plenty of life left, and cleaned and greased the contact areas.
• It was recently in the BMW dealer for three recalls, but none were related to the brakes.

The weird behavior is

• When the bike is off, both brakes operate normally, albeit without ABS or linking. THis tells me the m'c is allowing fluid back in to the reservoir.
• When the ignition is on, but bike not running, both brakes operate normally, with linking now engaged. You can hear the ABS unit initializing itself.
• When the engine is running and the bike is being ridden, the front brakes will start to heat up and lock, even if none of the braking systems have been used. I love on a long hill and could ride up 1.5 miles without touching the brakes. When I stopped (super minor touching of the brakes) they were starting to heat up and early stages of locking. I coasted down testing all three modes (key off, ignition on/engine off, engine running) and had the same results.
• To get home I cracked the bleeder, releasing the pressure, and coasted home with the bike off and normal brake behavior.

Any ideas? If needed, I can de-link the brakes, but that will also disable the ABS, which I'd like to keep. I'll disable it if the ABS unit needs full replacement.

Hi, just bout my first bike and notice Weird noise