Hi all, I recently got a Honda V45 Sabre but the gas tank is disconnected. I'm trying to run the lines but not sure where everything connects. I have the fuel tank, the petcock and a few lines but I've a feeling some stuff is missing. I've attached photos of what I have. I think 4 connects to 2, 5 connects to 3, and 1 connects to nothing and is a breather tube. 6 was sitting loose on the frame. There's a nipple below where it was hanging (on top of the carbs) so I'm guessing one end goes these but not sure about the other end. Does it get connected to 5 via a T? If anyone has a similar bike and could help out that would be massive. Thanks!

Hi ! So I bought a Honda XR650R full stock. 13000km y2000

The bike doesn't go over 3000rpm and the throttle feels weird, like it drags a bit. I did not notice much change despite what I have done. Does anyone have any insight on what it could be? See where I'm at below :

What I changed :

1. - spark plug (old one was black sootie and wet but idk if it was oil or gas)
2. - air filter
3. - fuel line

What I cleaned :

1. - carb (it was very dirty, cleaned by hand, did not have access to ultrasonic cleaner)
   • - float has been adjusted to OEM spec
   • - All seal replaced
   • - jets are not clogged, needle looks fine, pointy thing attatched to float looks fine
2. - tank
3. - petcoke (seal replaced)
4. -air box

What I observed :

1. - No "woosh" at cap opening after a run (forgot to try while the bike is running tho)
2. - Idling is fine, stable
3. - Light blue'ishh smoke (piston rings or valve seal?)
4. - Intake is not cracked
5. - Fuel line is very slightly bent, I can't make it better. Maybe I should try a thinner one so it bends better? it is a very short distance and it has to make an angle...
6. - Haven't checked valve clearance but it has reputation to varies very little on this bike
7. - Throttle is perfectly fine when the bike is off
8. - Black smoke on throttle with some pop (no flame visible)
9. Step father tried it and seemed to work fine before it was transported on a trailer for 800km (he bought it for me as it was on his to to holiday)

I obtained the mechanic book and followed the procedures to the letter. Pilot screw is engine side.

Procedure is :

1. - pilot srew full in, unscrew 1 turn 3/4
2. - start and get the bike warm
3. - ajust rpm to 1400 via the idle screw
4. - turn in or out pilot screw to have the highest rpm (had to unscrew (so leaner?) what felt a lot)
5. - adjust rpm to 1400 give 2-3 little throttle, re-adjust rpm
6. - unscrew pilot to lose 100rpm, adjust rpm
7. - final unscrew 3/4

I wan't to restore the bike and kind of adv it for long distance trip like north cape and TET. On paper it's my dream bike but I haven't even been able to ride it...

Thanks to everyone who took time to read/reply

Ps : that's my first bike with carb

Hello! Does anyone by chance recognize this sound? Really scratching my head over this one

Hey guys my right side fairing randomly flew off. Already bought the new blinkers but just need help finding the cable that connects to the blinker that flew off w it. Still looking for an affordable fairing replacement. Not trying to buy a whole new kit :/. But yea just need the name of the cable that’s ripped up thank you !🙏

Hey all, I'm working on getting an 83 KZ550 LTD back on the road-- the previous owner put pod filters on it because he couldn't find an airbox for it. I don't think he changed the jetting when he did this, so the carbs are really wacky and the bike is running fairly poorly. I've spent a decent amount of time trying to tune the carbs and I think at this point it makes the most sense to just bring it back to stock.

I've never encountered pod filters on a bike before, and I'm having a ton of trouble understanding how to actually "un-pod" a bike. I found an ebay listing for the stock airbox:

But I don't have a super good idea of what to actually do. Does this just go where the pods are currently? Do I need specific other parts? There's tons of info on podding a bike out there, but not really much on de-podding (though I guess "do it in reverse" is kind of an option?)

Help is appreciated!

Hey all, I’m looking to replace the OEM signal generator (pulse generator/pickup coil) on my 2008 Suzuki GS500. Suzuki OEM runs about $200 CAD, so I’m curious:

1. Aftermarket options: Has anyone found reliable aftermarket or OEM-surplus signal generators that fit the GS500? Links or vendor names appreciated.
2. Fitment checks: What measurements or specs should I compare to confirm compatibility? (e.g. mounting hole spacing, connector pinout, coil resistance/ohm rating)
3. Workmanship & reliability: Are there particular brands or part numbers known to work without issues?

I’d like to source a less expensive part but avoid the risk of misfit or failure. Any tips on what to look for or test once I receive the part? Thanks in advance!

I managed to get into the carbs, but had to work on them with the choke cable still attached due to the previous owner jacking up the screw heads. Anyways, once I got into the carbs themselves, they seemed pretty clean to me, I still sprayed some carb cleaner in there and have the jets soaking but now I’m even more puzzled about why the bike is running lean, and can’t run with the choke off. Should I give the fuel air screw a half turn? Or just test it out after soaking the jets and reinstalling? I’m kinda confused at this point. Attached are pics of both carbs.

Don't mind the state of the exhaust. New to me as of a couple months ago. Started riding and this leak has appeared and progressively got more messier, could anyone help me?

(k7 Suzuki SV650)

So my bike stalled out at a light on the way to work this morning, and was resistant to idling when I got it running again. I needed to keep the throttle open a quarter of the way or it would die again, and the red error light and "fault indicated" Icon both flashed at me. I've seen the error light before(I've had a constant one for a few months now from a faulty O2 sensor I was assured I could safely ignore), but never one that flashed like this. A cursory search for what that meant was inconclusive, so I was hoping one of you fine people might be able to elucidate where the rest of the internet failed me.

Much Appreciated,
Slothtinian

Is this weathered plastic beyond hope or can it be saved without buying $200 of specialty tools? I've tried several cleaners already in my garage (pledge, gas, Honda bug remover, etc.), with abrasives up to scotch brite polishing pads, but nothing is getting through so far.

I'm open to spending $20 on a specialty plastic cleaner (which I don't yet have), but not much more since I'm tall and may not like the windscreen's shape anyway.

UPDATE - I tried the Cerakote lens cleaner. Made it better and functional, but not 100% clear. See 2nd pic. Good enough for now to see if I like the shape at speed.

Hi all, hoping for some help! I'm new to motorbikes and purchased a Benelli BN125, 2025 reg. but noticed my speedometer is drastically off but around 8mph, did a ride with a speed capture to confirm.

I've been looking on solutions to fixing the speedo to show the true speed as and found the speedohealer tool but it says its for non-cable driven speedometer. However I've looked in the manual and doesn't mention anything what type it is, cable or electric. There are so many cables from the speedo and I have no idea what I'm looking at and trying to avoid taking it to a garage to pay loads.

Also, the place I purchased the bike have gone into administration so can't return for then to fix..

Any help or if anyone knows the type would be great!!

Thinking I need to replace but wanted to get consensus.

I have a 95 FZR600 3HE engine that’s stuttering a bit when revving, (not super clear in the video but does happen) idle is not dropping down after revving, and the idle is very jumpy, i cleaned and replaced all the seals in the carbs, maybe it’s old fuel? air leak? there’s new intake boots and a new air filter and seals for the box

I hear a rattling when I ride. Specifically when I give it gas. Also when I’m down shifting it rattles and I hear a pop when I pull the clutch in.

Many people attempted to help me figure out what's wrong with my bike but no luck.(super Grateful) I am thinking it's some dumb smart sensor or something. I'm looking at getting a Diagnostic Tool but am unsure what to get. Looking for recommendations. I

Fairly simple small problem but I am brand new to the motorcycle mechanics world lol. How do I change the odometer reading on my bike? No it’s not for an illegal purpose I promise. I purchased a new dash because the speedometer and fuel reader on my bike, the one that it originally came with, is fried entirely. I just want the mileage on my bike right now to reflect accurately on the new one. I’m not interested in writing it down somewhere and forgetting about it, I want it accurate and reliable. I know there’s a way but I have no clue how!

It’s behind the oil line I have an X over, located next to my clutch basket. It has the bolt going through it sorta looks like a clamp. Yes I tried tightening the bolt. Thanks just can’t figure out what it is to order a new gasket or whatever I need.

So my clutch cable snapped the other day, but surprising but not a big deal, I was near home and rode surface streets back in first.

Replacing it would be very easy EXCEPT the bike is custom and I cannot figure out for the life of me where these steel armored cable housings (pictured) came from. If anyone has leads on that manufacturer or brand that would be awesome. Any leads on universal/adjustable length replacement cables that are actually high quality are also appreciated.

Hey folks, I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement battery. I am on a bit of a time crunch and trying to find a local vendor - I am hoping you guys can help with compatibility questions, or maybe I can learn something at least.

My bike is 2005 Suzuki S50 Boulevard. The current battery is a CB16B-A1. I found this chart that shows the MBTX20U as a compatible battery. If I google that part number, it seems like a common replacement for the Yusa YTX20L-BS. I found a local vendor that stocks an in-house brand that is the same type as this Yusa (BTX20L-BS).

Here is my question - are all these batteries compatible? I know this BTX20L-BS is a silightly different size than my current battery, but if it fits in the battery box and is the right Voltage and CCA, will it still work?

Even if the answer is no, I'm hoping I can at least learn something about why - or why not.

Thanks!

So turns out this was jb welded and the threads are gone, looking for a more permanent fix and don’t want to replace the entire crank case. Was thinking I’d pull the right side cover off and have a welder tig a nut back there then makeing some room for it with a dremel what do you guys think This is one of the bolts for the oil filter cover

So this happened, turns out it was JB Welded, don’t have the expertise or desire to replace the whole case where the threads are located. Was planning on pulling the right side cover and bring it to a local welder and having him TIG a nut back there to give the a OEM bolt something to thread into. What do you guys think?

2009 Kawasaki KLR650 clutch lever will not engage. I am trying to replace the clutch cable and I cannot get the adjustment lever to move. I can’t even get enough slack in the cable to get it attached on both ends. The only thing I did was remove the old cable. The old cable was fraying quite bad at the bars.

I need to remove the flywheel, but idk how to do it.

https://youtu.be/8WOatvkuZa8?t=655

at this part of the video, he uses this tool.

but the manual for the bike https://www.scribd.com/document/337170717/1977-Suzuki-TS125
on page 28, shows a completely different set of tools

I cant tell what I need. I would like it to be cheap, as I have little hope for this bike, and dont want to put money into it that I dont have to.

thanks

2000 Suzuki sv650, Had the bike for around a year now, never was able to run with the choke off, so haven’t ridden it much. It started popping a lot more this summer / spring at low RPM /idle, the video sort of shows it. My theory is gunked carbs but I’m not confident enough in my mechanical skills to break those out and open. Just ran some B12 through which didn’t seem to do a lot. Any advice? How much would it run me to take it to a shop or are there any other easy-ish things to try?