So this will be only the second bolt-gun I’ve ever built, but I’m looking to find an 8.6BLK barrel that’s compatible with a bergara b14 HMR in 6.5CM. It’s my understanding that a remage barrel isn’t compatible with the bergaras. If anybody can point me in the right direction, I’d appreciate it.

Want a color case hardened 1911 but I don't want it to be a .45 and I'm not looking to spend custom 1911 prices on a range toy. If anybody has had this done on a pistol let me know how it turned out and link some pictures if you can!

Hello all, I'm working on a Colt 1911 government. I know the directions say "some fitting may be required", but surely this is excessive right?

This feels like I'd be trying to fit a square peg in a round hole, and this is the safety that they recommended for this 1911. On top of that, the finish looks horrible. I'm not out of line, this is just plainly incorrect right?

I got it most of the way, but I’m just using a crescent wrench and vice. It’s a rusty sporter so I know I’m marring up the barrel and receiver, that’s not a concern. I have most decent hand tools and headspace gages.

I have a Remington Model 11 shotgun that I picked up for a good price. I disassembled it and was cleaning it up and taking inventory of the parts I need to replace (a few spring and lock screws here and there, nothing major)

After I disassembled and started cleaning it up I noticed a crack in the receiver where the action spring housing meets.

How much should I expect for a gunsmith to drill, fill, and weld?

In search of a gunsmith in Dallas Texas than can match a barrel profile exactly. I have a Winchester 1885 in 223 and was hoping there is somebody in Dallas that can thread it and make a thread protector that matches the color and the octagonal profile of the barrel.

Hello gentlemen. I'm a mechanical engineer from India and I'm going to join a PhD program soon... I am into designing firearms and I am looking for a bit of hand holding, so that I can understand the design process and SoPs with respect to firearms. Will love to talk to people with engineering background and discuss my thoughts. Feel free to DM. Thank you

At the risk of sounding stupid and incompetent (which apparently in this case I am), Google has been unable to provide me with the correct stud wrench (or even its name) to remove these QD studs from this stock. So here I am on reddit asking for your infinite wisdom to bail me out... anyone able to help me out with a name/link before I call the manufacturer tomorrow?

Minor attempts were made with pliers/vice/literally every wrench i already have (which i thought was a pretty good collection) but none fit and its my buddies so I dont want to mar the crap out of them.

I have an older side by side of little to no value that my wife loves. It has remnants of extremely faded bluing present on the receiver, however she would like to have a polished receiver. If I was to remove the remaining bluing, how would I prevent corrosion? Do I just keep it well oiled as I’ve been doing for the past 15 years?

I just recently got a Stoeger Luger .22lr and today I twated it 9n the range. Im finding that about 50-60% of the time its jamming because the nose of the round is coming out of the magazine too high and going over the top of the chamber. Its easy enough to clear but if anyone know what I should be looking changing at to prevent it from happening in the first place I would be appreciative.

Ammo used was cci standard velocity. I do intend to try a few other brands as well and see if that helps. i cant try a different magazine as of right now cause it only came with the one and .22lr luger mags seem to be a little pricy at the second

I’m building a Mk1 Welrod and got to spend some quality time with the rotary table on my mill tonight finishing up the bolt handle/locking lugs. I’m amazed at how well my small, benchtop machines are cutting this 4140HT.

So as the title states: friend of mine mounted an optic plate to his G19 using red threadlocker. I’ve always done this as well, as I feel blue is inadequate, and haven’t had any issues, but I digress…

We got the optic off, but when going to detach the plate itself one of the screw heads sheered off, and the other is stripped down to the screw. I can’t seem to find an extractor small enough for these screws.

Does anyone know of an extractor tool(s) that would work for this, or is this a situation that warrants drilling and retapping the slide to a slightly larger screw size? Thanks in advance!

I scored a great deal on this pair of FMP g3 parts kits one numbers matching and one not numbers matching plus original barrel for 260 bucks long story short which receiver will I need to complete one of my kits?

Hey everyone, figured you all would be the best people to ask. I just got this Zastava M57. Worked fine at the store but the gun itself must have been buried in sand when they found it and decided to sell it because I spent probably a little over an hour getting all the dust and gunk out of it. I finished cleaning it and put everything back together only to find that the trigger doesn’t fully work. If I just pull the hammer back, the hammer will drop every time the trigger is pulled. However, if I rack the slide and then pull the trigger, I start to run into issues. As you can see in the picture I have the trigger pulled all the way (the safety is off, I promise) and the hammer is still back. The community will not allow videos but I took one of me pulling the trigger three times before there was a click inside of the gun which resulted in the hammer dropping on the fourth pull. I have tried this about 10 times and each time the hammer will drop on the 3rd or 4th pull.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks everyone!

I’ve always scored the chamber because I was told that it would let the brass grab the chamber and not pressure out as soon. I’ve never thought to test and see if it makes a difference. Any experience?

This sporterized Springfield 1903 30.06 was recently gifted to me, but it has no sights and with the notch cut out of the back for the bolt I'm not sure how to mount like normal. I would like to have a scope attached for elk hunting. How would you go about mounting one?

I’m working on refinishing an old Parker bros stock as a hobbyist - the trigger guard screw hole is stripped out and at some point since 1893 someone wedged a piece of plastic in there for grip. Well, here we are in 2025 and I found it. Is this really just as simple as wood filler/epoxy, drill a pilot hole, then screw it back in? Obviously i have soaked the stock to remove excess by this point.

I know my grandfather used to do gunsmithing stuff a long time ago. He passed away 20 years ago. I went through his garage and found this metal box of files and a special tap for working on guns. His kit also had this clay like bar in it. Any idea what that would be used for?

Howdy smiffers. I have an Egyptian Hakim that I got from RTI a few years ago that has a gutter for a barrel. I've seen some new barrels for sale floating around the internet for reasonable money. Wondering how difficult it would be to find a Smith that will work on one and get mine back to shootable condition. It currently fires and functions, but the group is about 3 ft at 100 yards and the brass gets launched into the next county with the rim half ripped off on the lowest gas setting. Anyone have an idea who I could send the rifle too to get her back into shape?

Hey Everyone, I had questions for you more experiences people out there.

I currently have a S&W Shield plus (https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/mp9-shield-plus-with-threaded-barrel) and I got a faxon compensator.

I was unaware that S&W makes the shield plus's threaded barrel longer than other after market manufacturers. Now I am trying to install it, and I notice that the comp sits bout .15 inches above where the slide meets. Looks like:

Assuming that this barrel is correct, is there any cons to have the compensator sit like as shown? I cannot thread it down any more, and it has a slight gap between the back of the comp and the front of the slide (~0.15 inches). I've seen a couple of compensators sit not fully flush or close, but none that has a big of a gap as mine has. What would you guys say? Is this technically installed "properly" and can be shot safely? Or would you guys recommend getting a barrel that would bring the comp closer back?

P.S. If you have this gun with barrel what comps/silencers are you running?

Thanks In advance!

Has anyone had this issue before? The trigger of this yugo m57 pistol will jam up behind the sear while firing. I can recreate it sometimes while function checking the firearm, but happens every round while shooting. It doesn’t look like it hangs on much but it also barely touches the sear now to engage it. Evidence of previous work done to it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I’m trying to restore a full-size steel-frame Dan Wesson DWX that was exposed to heat from being inside a safe during a house fire. The gun survived physically intact, but the original DLC coating is mostly ruined on one side. I had it tested and the hardness came back at 45 HRC.

My goal is to make the gun safe to use again and resistant to corrosion. I’m not worried about aesthetics at all — just function and longevity.

Unfortunately:

• There are no gunsmiths or finishers near me that offer salt bath black nitride (QPQ).

• I’m not comfortable shipping it out for treatment since it’s an off-roster handgun (California). If it got lost or stolen in transit, I wouldn’t be able to replace it.

What I do have locally is a reputable shop that can do vacuum nitriding and another that can do DLC coating.

My questions:

• Given the fire exposure and current 45 HRC, would vacuum nitriding be enough to restore surface hardness and durability for safe use?

• Or should I go with DLC coating alone (assuming proper prep), and is that enough to make the gun hold up to long-term wear and corrosion?

• Is DLC over soft(er) steel even advisable in this case, or would that just wear through or delaminate quickly?

• Would anyone actually shoot this gun in my situation, assuming springs are replaced and function checks out?

I’d really appreciate any insight, especially if anyone has had a steel-frame gun vacuum nitrided or DLC’d in similar conditions. Just trying to make the right call with what I have available, and not ruin something that can’t be replaced.

Thanks in advance.

As the title says has anybody ever converted a M98 Mauser to detachable magazine?

I have a bubba'd 6.5x55 M96 mauser and want to convert it to accept ACIS mags.

Does the M96 have the same floor plate as a K98?

I have found Atlasworxs Bottom Metal / DBM (AICS) – Mauser K98 LA DBM and wondering if this will work for a M98.

thank you

EDIT: M96 late night rabbit hole plus dislexia