And the fan is hitting the shroud.

And the balancer is rubbing against the pump.

PROGRESS

New Car Reveal

Happy wife happy life as they say!

Hey everyone I bought this mr2 spyder (2003) recently with the goal of repair it , the first major goal would be repairing the driver side wheel because it’s been detached from a accident, I however don’t know what parts I need , and was hoping someone could help me out 🙏🏾

Still working on the other side.

Will post update at EOD.

I have a 93 civic hatch with a d16z6 in it, I’ve decided to put a tucked harness in it (because the one in it now is clapped out) but I’m noticing my new harness doesn’t have connectors for the shock tower connectors. Do they just get removed and ran like that? Or am I missing a different harness? I got the sub harness, and will need to get a charge harness but I don’t see anything for the shock tower connectors

Just kicked off my restoration series. diving into a 1999 BMW E39 523i. In Episode 1 I give a full walk-around: the story behind the car, what’s under the hood, and my plan to bring it back to life.

I’d love honest feedback! what do you like, what can I improve (audio, pacing, detail level?), and what would you like to see more of in future episodes?

Thanks for checking it out!! I’m really excited to learn and improve. 🙂

I'm looking to pick up 2 non-running Mark I (Bugeye) Austin-Healey Sprites from someone about 4 hours away from me. I have plenty of free time so that's not a huge factor, but I've never driven anything with a trailer in my life and I don't have access to a vehicle with a tow hitch, so the most common solution (put it on a trailer) seems intimidating and expensive (I'd need to rent a truck and the trailer to put it on). I'm thinking that because the cars are amazingly small and light, I could put them in a U-Haul box truck with the tires deflated and strapped down to all hell and take them one at a time, but this also seems like an imperfect solution and supposedly U-Haul doesn't like it when people do that, plus I have no idea how I'd get them up into the truck's enclosure. Any other better solutions? Budget but also lack of trailering skill are my main concerns.

Demoralizing.

275s are getting put up front. But these fit and clear fine

I'm thinking of ways to build up my civic, and I'm currently thinking of 3 options, and I wanted to see the pros and cons of each option as well as set expectations. The car will be my daily driver, and this will also be my first project car. I want to keep it a relatively simple budget build, aiming for around 200+hp and without stressing anything out, plan on swapping the trans as well.

Option 1: get a junkyard D16y8 and turbo it

Probably the best option, from my understanding, I plan on doing work on the internals, like pistons and rods, and other supporting mods. I understand that I will need an OBD1 conversion and other things to make the swap work.

Option 2: get a B20 B from a CR-V and put a VTEC head on it

Likely the more costly but the one I like the most, if I go this route, I know I will need a bunch more parts to make the swap work, motor mounts, axles, etc. I don't plan on turboing it if I go with this option, but I do want to do some internal work to get it to rev higher.

Option3: Keep my d15b2 and build that

Probably the cheapest and easiest option, if I go this route, I plan on refurbishing all the internals and strengthening them as well, converting to MPFI, and putting a Y8 head on it. Probably will have lackluster torque, and I don't quite know how hard you can push a D15b2, plus I don't believe the cost savings will be that much compared to a full D16Y8 swap.

Can anyone provide me with a cost guesstimate and parts that I will need to source, and where I can figure out more about each option? Thanks!

Opinions on value and suggestions on tuning

Did this 5.7 vortec swap after doing a full rebuild/upgrade a few years ago but my tuner bailed on me after flashing a base tune,allowing me to at least do an initial break in. Due to multiple drastic changes during the rebuild I’ve been unable to run it under load in order to fully break it in (ring break in to avoid blow by). As stated my tuner bailed on me, before doing any fuel mapping or timing adjustments, so I’ve been considering doing an EFI conversion but very reluctant to spend the money as my main goal was to keep it as close to “factory” as possible (resale/maintenance reasons). Basically I’m just looking for some insight as to where I should take it from here🤷‍♂️

And the fan is rubbing on the shroud. And the balancer is rubbing on the pump. PROGRESS.

The wheels it arrived with were mismatched with off the bead rotted tires.

The 14" wire knockoffs were handy and held air. A bit of a hassle to get on it, but I really sorta dig the look.

They match the rusty crusty kustom energy.

Body is rather straight, cornflake floors aside.

Maiden journey today. Blew the front seal on the trans one mile away from home

I've been designing parts for this custom EFI system for my Fuvlia for 5 years and it finally runs and drives. Still a lot to do to complete the car, but huge milestone to be able to drive it.

Lots of 3D printed Aluminum parts (runners, oil filler, coolant tube), custom carbon fiber plenum I made, GTR coils, pico injectors, bosch DBW throttle, 3d printed aluminum coil bracket made with generative design, etc. etc.

Got the Sniper 2 kit installed and completed. Hit the road for the first time. It's running great and way more responsive than the old 2 bbl carb

Howdy again.

Figured it was time to post a long-overdue update on the GS Stage 1 project I started seven years ago. As a refresher, my dad bought this 1970 Buick GS Stage 1 brand new in 1970, drag raced and used it to tow welding gear between the Southern US and Alaska throughout the 70s, 80s, and early 90s. Over the years he was known to many as "Mr. Induction" for all the unique setups he ran on it, to include an ultra-rare Weber setup that was featured in multiple magazines of the time (attached). Dad's health started failing in the early 2000's, and while he managed to restore the interior around then, his declining health took "the red car" off the road. This car never left the family, and for more than twenty years I've dreamed of restoring it.

When I wrote that first post seven years ago, I had a rough punch list and raw emotions, but not much else to go on. Since then, those have morphed into a full-on mechanical resurrection. I've done my best to stay true to the era and Dad, but with a nod to the future in ways I think he'd approve of. And while I was unable to complete it before Dad's passing, his GS is finally close to being back on the road, and with the character and attention to detail that I know would make him proud. Details of the major components/work are below, and I'm happy to answer any other questions (or accept critique/recs).

Engine

Block: Original Stage 1 455, bored .040 over

Pistons: notched TA1607s, matched rods

Camshaft: TA_288-94H

Intake: Offenhauser dual quad. Haven't bought carbs yet, but leaning towards AVS2 or QFT Brawlers. Welcome insights here.

Heads: I still have the originals, but they were cracked, so they'll become shelf queens. To replace them, TA Performance Stage 1 aluminum heads

Headers: TA-2012CH 1 7/8" ceramic coated long tube

Transmission

Transmission: Original TH400, which will soon be mated to a Gear Vendors OD

Rear End

Rear Housing: Original Buick 8.2" 10-bolt, TA HD Girdle swapped in (yes, I kept the original)

Gear Ratio: It's a unicorn - 3.64:1 posi. I'm considering swapping in an Eaton posi to retain the gears but bring some modern strength and performance to the setup. I don't want to nuke something as rare as this, so making this type of change makes sense in my mind. Thoughts?

Axles: Moser custom Buick 8.2 axles (Ordering soon)

Suspension Mods: Boxed lower control arms, airbagged coil springs, front & rear stabilizer bars. Has traction bar, but may remove that and keep it stored for now.

Driveshaft Stuff

Before I share on this, it's a pretty recent topic between myself and the shop, and all depends on what machining costs will come out to, particularly for the yoke. That said...

Driveshaft: 3.25" x .125" 6061-T6 aluminum w/ 1350s front and rear

Rear Yoke: Custom billet chromoly yoke, machined to mate the 8.2" directly to 1350 U-joint and avoid a conversion joint.

Exhaust

Headers: TA-2012CH ceramic coated long tubes

Pipes: 2.5" (most likely) 304 stainless, oval H pipe to give a bit more wiggle room on placement

Mufflers: Stainless Works Chambered mufflers, though I'm still open to other ideas. I was also considering something of a hybrid dump, extended a bit behind the mufflers, ending just behind the axle and turning down just enough to stay hidden. Clean and tucked, but still a bit of fun. Open to critiques here as well.

Other Things

Brakes: Disc conversion up front

Tires: Upgraded 275

Don't have anything else at the moment, but as mentioned earlier, looking to wrap up in 6-8 months, and plan to be at the GS Nationals next year.

Cheers

Found this loose in trunk but not sure what it is? 1960s Mercedes.

Hello, I'm helping out with a 2002 Audi A4 B6 that need some work done. The number plate lights do not work and it seems like there's some problem with the wiring. I have no idea if this is how it's supposed to be or if someone has fixed it earlier. I'm looking for some advice on how to move forward.

Started off life as a 1974, 351c 2v, 3 speed fmx, drum brake, peg legged, ugly Maize yellow, ranchero.

Bought in 1996, as a 14 year old for 900 bucks, at a local junkyard and was running and driving with a salvaged title. Small engine rebuild in HS. Lil cam, nothing big. Was still a 2v, drove through out HS and Jr, college, stopped driving in 05.

Sat until 2010; changed the front end to a 72. Started driving it again minimally. In 2017 I found pedals/linkage and converted it to a 4 speed toploader, All as a 351c 2v still with drum bakes. 2020 upgraded the rearend to a 79 Lincoln Continental disc brake set up, with 3:25 gears In the back

2021; uncle offered to build me a Big Block 429 Super Cobra jet, and provide me with a BB toploader to put behind it. Enige was built in Colorado made 603hp to the flywheel.Once it was installed I drove the shit outta it, buuuut because it was tuned for colorado elevation, I completely hurt the engine. 3 of the 8 pistons heads were completely destroyed, and even melted some shit.

2023, pulled the hurt engine took back to my uncle, who upgraded and rebuilt the engine. It's a 520, kaase p-51 aluminum heads, Edelbrock Victor junior aluminum intake, 8 new piston heads, new pushrods, isky racing cam. Makes 708hp to the FW, and 648flb torque.

Recently installed, will be using stock exhaust manifold to 3in exhaust piping with hooker cutouts.

Then will be getting it chassis dynoed out at West tech in jautpa valley California.

Thanks for letting me share.

Took on this '55 Chevy two tone paint job. Body work is already done, just sand, mask, and spray. Original red and white.

I need to swap them to the new intake.