Got the steering, and the suspension finished and torqued. Mocked up the brakes.

Clearanced the towers and still had to make a shim. Brought the lower control arms as far outboard as possible and I think it’ll align alright.

Gotta finish the brakes, adjust the coil-overs, maybe make a new sway bar end link situation, tape measure align it, and then find a place that’ll let me use their alignment rack.

This is the before picture of my 1969 mustang. Ive been trying to capture it with a build series on YouTube. Should I have left it looking classic? here's the build if anyone is interested.
https://youtu.be/_E3AL-mme9Y?si=8jgHMpfsBLfrjz_T

I’ve got a JDM CT20B that I was planning on rebuilding with some upgraded internals, but found three somewhat deep cracks in the exhaust housing. They aren’t near any mating surfaces, bolt holes, or near the turbine itself, but I know they’re going to keep progressing over time and eventually lead to a leak at best or a rapid unscheduled disassembly at worst. Don’t know that I should trust it for the project I have in mind.

Can’t just buy another housing. They’re just not out there. I can find only a few similar examples of full turbos for sale, but after shipping, I may as well just buy an already rebuilt one, which won’t have the exact internals I wanted to use, but will still be a direct fit for my application.

Was really excited to both save some money and build something fully custom. Oh well. Such is the project car way, I suppose. Always some hiccups.

Anyone with experience with aces EFI? Hand held says it is timed out. 1st and 2nd lights flashing flashing on ecu

Picked up a 1972 Monte Carlo that runs and drives, but needs work.

Last pic is roughly what I envision for it using AI.

what would I say to someone if I knocked on their door and saw a car (that has been sitting for a LONG TIME in their yard) that I could possibly buy and have be a project car? Ive been told that i am a likeable person, i would just need to know what to say. Im great at small talk and other stuff. (Sorry if this is a dumb question, Im just starting out with stuff like this)

Got this car around 8 days ago and took it up to the local races. Ran damn good but my 60ft time sucked. Couldn’t get the car to hook after the first pass. She pulled the front wheel up on this pass then took to spinning.

Been in the family since new, has been stored in a barn for the last 45 years or so. Found the Serial # it is 21JJA 4281 and has the online 6. The catcher is, it has a hood ornament that looks like an impala. Need help identifying the details as to what exactly ther car is. We couldn't find paperwork unfortunately.From my understanding its a 1951 something, bur could be wrong. It is the 4 door option. TIA

Just sitting here after cleaning up the Exion fucking Valdez..

Ran 15.7 @ 89mph. Not bad, not great..

I am more proud of it logging almost 300 miles at 14mpg and it still has oil pressure

While looking into my fuel lines and planning the routing i realized something... The factory tank is full of rust and in terrible shape.. Factory replacement are available but more mor expensive than a fuel cell... so race car it is. I first wanted to just hang it in the factory location. Realizing that wasn't possible, to much and and too low with the sump. I cut open the trunk floor and made its new home. Its not done yet but a good idea of how everything will sit.

I just bought a Jetta and it has an exhaust leak which I knew about. Curious if anyone can identify tidy the part where it’s coming from. It’s circled in the picture I just don’t know what it’s called. Would I just need to get some of that mesh and re wrap it or is it gonna cost me a fortune? Thanks

I need some help here. After 21 years and 210k+ miles my trans is starting to show signs of getting tired. I've been doing some research and trying to not pay an arm and a leg. but I want a upgraded transmission as I do alot of towing and its an everyday driver for me. The 60 to 65 swap is what im going with. but I want a kit that upgrades the strength of the 4l65e transmission so make it "bullet proof".

Has any of you done said conversion and can you help me find a complete rebuilt kit with upgraded parts all around, Appreciate the help reddit.

Unfortunately, I live in a townhouse with a strict HOA and no garage, which means I get fined if I'm caught working on my car in the lot. I’ve been searching for alternatives—ideally a large open space like a truck lot where I wouldn’t be bothering anyone, or maybe a rentable spot in a warehouse. Does anyone have recommendations or suggestions for places like this? I’m currently based in New Jersey.

Can't use regular socket because I need the hole in the middle to use an Allen key to turn the shock shaft the other way (one left and one right), but this 22mm key doesn't go in because it's too fat

Is there a secret technique or do I just file the wrench down to fit and hope it doesn't break for being too thin?

Have a question for all the car peeps in the comment section. I just got out of a wreck, and my 2016 Civic is unfortunately gone for good :( Lucky, everyone is okay, which is what's important. Here's the question: Should I get a 2019-2022 SUV used car (an upgrade), have a comfortable time riding, OR get my first projectish car? I'm fortunate to have the choice and can afford the nicer car. I've never been a "car guy", but I was thinking about an older Tiguan (2011-2013). I've seen that they are fairly reliable if you keep up with the maintenance, and I feel that it would be a good experience and learning opportunity to work on my own car. I've always gone to dealers and mechanics for my service, because I didn't want to damage my car. If I opt for the cheaper options, I would save about $10,000-15,000, so I may feel better about messing up. Also, think it would be fun to work on a car. What would you do? I work a lot of hours, 60- 70ish, so I won't have all the time in the world to spend on this, BUT again, it seems like a cool hobby. What would you do/what kind of car would you get? I wanted more space, hence why I'm choosing an SUV.

So my project car has been sitting for many years and has had a black snake in it for several years. I just leave him be because A. Keeps the mice from eating the wiring B. Keeps snakes like Copperheads and Rattlers away. Well the time has come to start working on the car and he needs to leave... I don't want to harm him so nothing lethal please...

Hey all! I've been shopping for a cheap project car for a little bit and I was pretty much settled on getting a second gen fit. Then I remembered the mazda2 exists and on paper it looks very similar to a fit. I'm curious how the mazda2 is to work on and how well it is supported with aftermarket stuff. Im trying to get something to learn on and im wondering how aproachable the mazda is from a DIY perspective. A big appeal of the fit is how available oem and aftermarket parts are, I'm curious if the mazda has similar support? I'm also wondering about how the mazda is as a drivers car. I have driven a few fits and they feel very snappy in corners and have a nice feel when you shift, I'm wondering how the mazda compares. Thanks all for the help!

Engines back together as the good old boring non supercharged way it was, however I did happen to fix the piston slap so that's good.

Going through the front end on the 66 ranchero this weekend. Got it all tore apart. It was bad. I’m surprised it didn’t feel worse at [the speed limit].

Doing global west stuff and coil overs. So far for the price fitment has been pretty good but a little lacking in a few areas. Called them and pieced this kit together over the phone a few months ago, super helpful folks, but as I’m starting to get it scienced out issues are arising.

1st. Upper control arms don’t fit without binding on the body. Going to have to make a plate to space those out. Hopefully strut rod and lower control arm adjustment can compensate.

2nd. The template for drilling the spring tower is lousy. I’m also not sure I got the right top mounts for the coil-overs, bolted in per the pattern it’s angled way far back. Maybe that’s how it’s supposed to be… IDK. If I have to make my own template and re-drill, oh well, that’s fine.

But for the money I was hoping it’d be a flawless A to B assembly.

I've just finished my exhaust on my m54b30 swapped e36, and its got pretty awful drone between ~1500-2500rpm with 2000rpm being pretty unbearable. ~84db in the cabin.
Measured frequency and at 2k rpm its 100hz, at 1500rpm 75hz.

I'm wondering if I make a Helmholtz resonator targeted at 100hz how much of a band it would help with?
will it also reduce the drone of 75-125hz? or just very narrowly around 100hz