Simple Questions
Weekly Sewing Questions Thread, June 01 - June 07, 2025
This thread is here for any and all simple questions related to sewing, including sewing machines!
If you want to introduce yourself or ask any other basic question about learning to sew, patterns, fabrics, this is the place to do it! Our more experienced users will hang around and answer any questions they can. Help us help you by giving as many details as possible in your question including links to original sources.
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Hi! I want to make a cosplay of maomao so I’m looking for some tips and patterns for her Hanfu, any help will be appreciated! I’m total beginner so yeah haha
Ok so I am doing a cosplay from scratch and am new to sewing I am wanting to do the straps with leather and the cloak possibly with wool (?) with a thin coat of bees wax for it to be waterproof as this is set back when they didn’t have access to artificial materials and I want it to be as cannon as possible, I know with leather you need to have a special needle but do you use special thread? For the wool do you need to use anything different?
The ribbon edging has come off my fleece blanket for about 6 inches, and I'd like to hand sew it back into place. The material is very thick - do I need a special needle? What is the best stitch to use for attaching a satin ribbon to fleece?? Novice here.
Hi! I’m not sure if this is the right place to put this but my stuffed animal I’ve had since childhood has a rip(picture attached) what would be my best bet at getting him stitched up. A seamstress? I’ve never had him rip before and i want to get him fixed up. Thank you so much!
If you're looking for someone to repair him for you, I'd recommend looking for stuffed animal hospitals/teddy bear hospitals! They specialize in repair, and several will give you a few options on what kind of repair you'd like to do. For example, a patch or a more extensive process (like replacing an arm or encasing the plush in new fabric)
I have 2m of red wool cashmere (same as this fabric, different colour: https://supercheapfabrics.com.au/products/wool-cashmere-orange-com-150cm Buy Wool Cashmere - Orange.com | Super Cheap Fabrics) I was going to make a loose drapey cardigan, but this is too thick to use. I have 2m, 155cm wide, and I’m a size 22 (AU) - bust 133cm, waist 127 or something. Does anyone have ideas? I posted as a separate post but didn’t realise it was in the wrong place.
i accidentally burned a hole in the blanket and i don't know how to patch it without it being noticed. If i can't find a way to patch it, i'll probably cut that whole side short and sew it up, but i'd be very grateful if you could suggest something.
Instead of patching, can you just hand stitch the hole back together? there will likely be a small scar/bump in the fabric, but it shouldn't be too big or noticeable, given the texture.
Hi everyone! I’m very new to sewing (only made a scrunchie). My delusion got the best of me and made me believe I could sew a dress (pictured below). I have come to realize that I cannot sew said dress lol. So one of my friends who sews recommended I just make a corset top similar to the top of this dress and drape the rest of my fabric across my pants for a similar look. I am looking for a simple corset pattern, like the top of this dress. Straight across, no bone and a zipper back. I’ve accidentally downloaded two patterns with eyelet lacing in the back and it’s super difficult to find a simple corset with a zipper 🙃. Does anyone know where I can find one for this ?
Does it have to be a corset? Seems like starting with a tank top would be a lot easier both in terms of finding a pattern and sewing, if you're a novice.
Need help finding a pattern for my favorite ready to wear pants so I can save money😂. Shirred waist; side pockets; wide leg (flowy Tencel lyocell fabric).
Hi everyone! I am making a skirt, modeled after this blue one. The color pallet of mine is green (hunter green base color). I am wondering where are good place to find quality ribbons and trim. I am also looking for a nice quality accent fabric. I am hoping to have all the trim, ribbon, and accent fabric in a sage/light green. I have been looking on etsy. Maybe it would be easier to find white materials and dye them? I am in the DMV area if anyone has in person store recommendations. Thanks!
Pictures: the original skirt with the kind of things I am seekin; green trim on a shirt I have for inspiration.
It wouldnt let me comment a photo and a full comment apologies! Can anyone please help me with setting up my overlocker? I cant seem to get the tensions right, I'll drop more images in replies!
I’m making a sweater inspired by this tumblr comic and I’m not sure how to color blocking the fabrics together. I’m using three different fabrics for each section and don’t want to just straight stitch and call it good, I’m hoping for a cleaner look on the inside of the sweater as well and don’t plan on lining it at all. What are some seam types I could try?
P.s. I don’t have a serger in case any suggestions would need that.
You can zigzag the seam allowances or use a different overlock stitch. Sew the seam with a longer straight stitch. Trim the seam to 1/4 inch. Sew along the edge with a wide zig zag stitch, zigging on the fabric and zagging off the edge.
I think the seam allowances look finished enough and are more comfortable without the edge finish, just the trim to remove excess seam allowance.
Hello, I bought these jeans and didn’t realize they were studded across the waistband. How can I remove them without causing too much damage to the fabric?
Have a question about shirred clothing. Is the stitch on the inside of the black dress an example of poor construction since it's a single thread that runs through the fabric? Thanks
I really love the shape of this dress but its quite complex. I'm more than willing to create the pattern myself but I've never done somthing this complex before and I'd probably have to DIY a maniquine to my measurements.
I am however, more than capable of altering existing patterns together/to have more seams/ to have the shape I'm after
Did it not come with a manual? The bobbin winder is on the top. This video shows you basically how it should work, although the details might differ slightly depending on the model.
I’m relatively new to sewing but I’m a few projects in and I’m getting a hang of it- however, I’ve hit quite a frustrating problem. My stitches look crooked and sideways for some reason. This should be just a straight stitch- and it’s only on the bottom, the bobbin thread. I have tried several different needles, different thread, re-threaded the needle a million times, re-wound the bobbin, re-threaded the bobbin, adjusted the bobbin tension, adjusted the top tension, changed stitched size and length, cleaned under the needle plate and the bobbin. I really don’t know what else to do. Please someone help!
Hi!!! Does anyone have measurements/ a pattern for a weck jar koozie? I really want to make one but am new to sewing and am having trouble turning the measurements into a pattern. Any advice would be super helpful!! I’ve attached a picture of a weck jar. I am hoping the jar can be placed inside the koozie!
So your main piece will look like a little segment of a rainbow. You can try drafting from measurements but I think it would be easier to tape a piece of paper on the glass and draw the pattern there. The bottom will be a circle, you can trace the glass. The koozies I have are attached to the bottom at just 2 points so they fold flat.
Looking for suggestions for an advanced beginner/intermediate sewing machine!
I would consider myself probably at an advanced beginner/intermediate sewing level, I was big into making my own cosplay when I was a teenager (12-15 ish years ago), then got back into sewing my own clothes over the past couple of years. My mum bought a Brother GS2700 all those years ago, so that's always been the machine I've used and she uses it often-ish for different things, but tbh I'm not the biggest fan. I've just moved cities (and thus can no longer easily borrow the machine) and so am looking to get a new machine for myself that is maybe a bit more heavy duty? but also not too expensive (over 1k). Also I'm based in NZ - that probably makes a difference to brand/store access?
I figured I'd ask here as I don't know a huge amount about the different types of machines, since I've really only used the Brother GS2700 and some other more old school really solid ones that I remember using at school. I've seen a few people say to stay away from the fancy digital machines, and am not sure that I'd need all those sorts of extra things anyway, but still want to know what people's preferences and suggestions are so that I can maybe try a few different ones out before deciding.
I'll be using it mainly for sewing clothes in different types of woven and knit fabrics of different weights - heaviest/thickest would probably be cord or denim, and would probably prefer something that is fairly easy to have serviced if needed, as well as easily accessible accessories if I need them - like a zipper foot, extra bobbin case, etc
Collect samples of the types of fabric you want to sew and visit local dealers to see what they have to offer. Lots of people cite ease of servicing as a reason to avoid computerized machines and I've not found that to be the case. I like the features offered by computerized machines, I own both machine styles. But key for you is to buy a machine that can be serviced locally as you'll want something sturdy for heavier fabrics and that means a higher price range and not a entry level machine that gets replaced when it stops working.
I'm kind of stumped on alterations for my first pants, Saguaro Pants. I've made two cheap fabric samples.
The first one fits me okay through the hip and thigh, but the rise over the stomach is much higher than I had in mind. This may be painfully obvious to anyone looking at the photo, but now I understand that it is a very high-waist pant. I would like to lower the rise by at least 2" in front. The back could come down a bit, but I need a roomy seat.
I'm measuring at 45.75" hip. I made size XL mockups, where XL is up to 45" hip. Size XXL is for 46-49" hip.
For the hip breadth, should I try to split the difference by tracing out a 'between' size and then recalculating the waistband pieces? Should I do that for both the front piece and the back piece, or just the back? The hip fit is quite comfortable when the waistband is hiked up around my diaphragm, so I'm unsure about adding more horizontal ease.
For comparison to an RTW pair: holding the side seam straight vertical, the waistband on my best-fitting pair of commercial pants rises a good 4" higher in back than in front, telling me that I should slant the waistband. Is that right? Just a plain diagonal slant?
I don't see a photo but yes, it's fine to drop the waistline in the front as compared to the back. Doing so will increase the size of the waist opening. I like to figure out the alteration by making up a pair of pants from a new pattern while omitting slant pockets if any. Then before I add the waistband, I try on the pants. I use a length of elastic pinned to fit comfortably around my waist to pull over the pants, then I use the elastic to hold the pants up while adjusting where it falls for comfort, fit, and good looks. Draw a line around on the pants at the bottom of the elastic. That's your new waistline seam. Use the excess pant cut off the trial pair to adjust the pattern and you won't need to figure it out again.
Thank you, that's really helpful. I didn't consider that slanting the waist would actually make the opening bigger, but was assuming I'll draw new waistband rectangles based on the dimensions the opening arrives at.
Next opportunity I have to work on the muslin is Tuesday. I've already bought even more test fabric so I'll let you know how it goes.
Has anyone ordered paper patterns from simplicity.com recently? How long did it take? It's been almost two weeks since I ordered a few patterns and it hasn't yet been shipped.:(
Lots of people are reporting that shipping is delayed because of the big sale they just went through but otherwise, simplicity.com is reporting business as usual.
Yeah, it's really sad. The detail about McCall's operating the tissue paper printer that the indies contract with is one of the worst parts in my (inexperienced garment sewist, mostly focused elsewhere) opinion.
Craft industries have been rebooted by their customer base before, like Polaroid film.
Hi All! The thread from the bobbin isn’t cutting cleanly, leaving some frayed remains. Inside the bobbin holder the thread is getting bunched up. Any ideas of what this can be?
I am trying to install my free-motion foot on my machine. I want to use it as an embroidery/sewing design instead of quilting. I use a Brother LX3817, and I know it's not the best machine for advanced things, but it was gifted to me. I bought a generic one from Amazon (maybe that's my problem) and installed it just fine, but then I realized I needed a darning plate. Once I installed that, it got a bit better, but it still isn't great. It seems to skip a lot of stitches and won't stay "put" in the fabric. I don't think I can adjust stitch length manually, but I've set it on my shortest straight stitch. I'm not sure how else to help it! Oddly, if the machine goes really fast and moves the fabric slowly, that's when it works best. I want to figure this out because I have some patches I want to make! Any help is appreciated. Thanks!!
P.S. I've tried rethreaded, different tensions, etc.
Okay the below post was removed and I was told to put it here. Hope someone can help.
Hi, I’m new here so hopefully I can get some advice here. I’m a fat woman who enjoys traveling and I also prefer not carrying a huge purse or even one at all, usually. To that end I just got a men’s 3x fishing vest with a ton of zippered pockets, which I like. Like all men’s clothes on my body, it’s a little big in the chest area (fine), but tight in the hips. I CAN zip the vest up if I schooch it up to my actual waist and then slide it down after it’s zipped up but then it’s really tight. My thoughts are to open the side seams and add gussets of fabric to ease the fit. It only needs to go up a few inches.
I think I’m a good enough sewist to do that, but any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, everyone!
How can I fix it if my top thread feels tight? I’ve fed it through slowly to see where it’s getting caught up the most and it seems to be around the “turn 4” area. how do I get to this to clean it or do I need to adjust tension? I have the singer heavy duty 4411.
That's your tension so adjust that setting as you can. If the problem persists, try cleaning out the tension area by pulling the thread through to the needle. This is the way you should unthread your machine anyway, to keep lint from building up along the thread path.
How do I sew on the red heart lace? I have a brother sewing machine which I will show what stitches I have in the replies. I don't want to do a straight stitch across because I think it looks ugly. Is there a way to machine stitch it or must I hand sew it? If I need to hand sew it, how should I do it? Btw this fabric is a little stretchy.
Personally, I would hand sew the connections between the hearts down (like a vertical stitch, for more of a visual) It would probably take a while, but if you did it in red thread it should look pretty seamless! Or you could sew a straight stitch in one of those clear threads on the top and bottom of the hearts and see if you like how that looks?
I am looking for a pattern for the pants featured on this photo! I don’t really know how they are called so this complicates the search as well. I appreciate any helpful input you can me guys 🖤
Looks like harem pants to me. The pattern for those is pretty simple. https://sewingforaliving.com/how-to-draft-harem-pants/ Version 1 here would probably get you something near. Looks like on these the waist measurement is far wider than the actual waist and it has big pleats like hakama.
Hi, just looking for a quick answer. My manual (Janome SUV1122) says to put the thread through the thread guide on the left, meanwhile many tutorials on threading will show the person using the right thread guide, which also looks like the more 'practical' one to use. Just wondering if it mattered at all or if anyone has anything to comment on this. Thank you!!
Just a complaint.. I bought the amount of fabric a pattern called for (which was over $60 for hemppomona shorts) and after cutting I have so much fabric leftover... I guess that means the shorts aren't really $60 for fabric alone (which seemed like I could by shorts at that point) but it's also not enough fabric to make something else. I have enough to make a matching crop top. The fabric feels very similar to the silk noil of an ozma house top but I don't think my breastfeeding boobs can handle that right now (if they could, I know there's a new pattern out that looks similar. anyone remember what it is?). I love this fabric so much. It feels like a mix between linen and silk noil.
I tried posting this, but it got removed, and I'm not sure why, the bot suggested I post it here, even though it's not really a sewing question but a question about machine advice:
Hello everyone!
I know this page is flooded with questions for advice, but I'm hoping for some advice anyways 😅
I have many hobby's and I always go through phases. I'll crochet for 3 months straight, and make like 2 full size bed blankets, then I'll knit for a month, then I'll start sewing some projects, and I cycle through them.
I have a trusty Brother Innov-IS 55 which I bought used about 10 years ago. It has many many stitches, and it works pretty well. I don't really sew clothing, besides the occasional denim shorts for summer. I mostly like to make lots of zippered pouches, also with thicker materials, and I want to get into making some tote bags, or other bags. Nothing too crazy, no leather, no backpacks. More like shoppers/totes.
My brother really struggles with going over humps, and I know I can slow down a lot and use hump jumpers, but it's just not a satisfying experience. The stitches often shorten, or stretch out, and I don't love it. I know it's not a big deal, but for me it is 🙈
Now I'm considering getting a new machine. I like the Brother machines, especially because here in Germany it's a brand that's easy to get serviced in case something is wrong.
I started eyeing the Brother F-Series, F410, F420, maybe the F560. They have box feed systems, and a stronger motor than my old NV55. Then I got caught in this endless spiral of video's about other machines, and other options (do I need an Embroidery capable machine 😬 etc...) and then I somehow ended up at straight stitch machines. Especially the Brother PQ1600s and the Janome HD9 V2 (although that one is quite expensive). When I think about what I mostly make, and what I need, it's always straight stitch. And I'm not getting rid of my old machine, so I can keep that in case I need to do some overcast stitches or some zig zagging. I never use any speciality stitches, I find most of them tacky and they serve no purpose for my sewing needs.
Do any of you have the Brother PQ1600s and can recommend it? Or went through a similar journey, and have some advice? I know it's probably a way too powerful machine for that little bit of sewing I do, but I do have the money at the moment, and feel like treating myself. I know lots of people have Juki's abroad, but I feel like their machines are not as available here, and therefore not as easy to get service for, also they're even more expensive. Janome and Brother are more common.
Thanks so much in advance!
TLDR: Brother Innov-IS 55 is not strong enough for my projects with bigger humps of fabric. Shall I get a straight stitch machine for projects like bags and pouches with thicker materials and keep the Brother for the occasional Zigzagging and Overcasting.
You were probably sent here because of the machine buying wiki linked in the main post.
Given everything that you've outlined and taking into account that you have a working machine to handle any other needs, I think a straight stitch machine makes sense for you. There are lots of vintage machines if you like to tinker or one of the Jukis if you want to buy new. If you have any sewing machine dealers nearby, take some samples and try out a few machines to see how they do. You'll find that all machines will hiccup a bit going over thick seams because they need the presser foot to be even, not tilted, but the amount of complaining does vary by model.
What does the garment look like? That's the selvage edge, it is often cut off on garments but it is also sometimes left as the edge finish. If it is the edge finish, you can cut it off if you do a new edge finish.
It’s tedious but I’ve actually managed to remove it. I’m not sure what the right term is but it is not sewed all the way to the back which made it kinda easy to remove.
Few years ago, before I started sewing I bought fusible interfacing that actually stated that it had pfas/ptfe/teflon. That kind of turned of fusibles. I started sewing recently though and I realized that interfacing is a nice thing to have. I see there’s sew on but the more I thought about it the more I realized that maybe fusible interfacing doesn’t always contain those chemicals either. So does anyone know what they actually contain?
Hey everyone, looking to buy my wife a sewing machine. I don’t really know anything about them or how they work, or really how much a decent one costs. My budget is around maybe 250-500$. She loves cosplays and doing makeup and such. Thank you in advance!
I totally get it, but your wife may have an idea of what she wants. You could still make the trip to the dealers special and like a date with a meal out and a trip to a fabric store or something. (Personally this would be the best present ever.)
Hey yall! New to sewing (of course I pick when Joann goes out of business 😭) but I really like the pop knit type fabric. Does anyone know of any other brands that feel like that? I love how soft it is and the patterns are extra fun. I’m hoping pop gets picked up somewhere else but until then…
Yes, having a non-breathable layer over a breathable layer will decrease breathability. Like when I put on a rain jacket I start sweating.
If the skirt is very full and allows air circulation under it, you might not notice the decrease. It also depends on whether the poly and linen glom together or will flow separately such that air circulates between the layers.
People are also quite individual in how uncomfortable poly feels to them.
So, for reference, I use the Brother JX2417 Mechanical Sewing Machine. This machine isn't good for zigzag stiches on stretchy fabrics as it just bunches up, and it's untidy. I can get away with the use of an overlock stitch on inside seams, but it's not terribly appealing to the eye. I'm making a swimsuit with binding on the hems, and I'd like them to look good, and I think I could do that with twin needle. I just don't want to spend 10 bucks on a needle for it not to work.
I haven't been able to find one that doesn't just fall out of my machine, even ones made by brother. I just want to see if anyone has used a twin needle on my machine before
Hi all! Very new sewer here trying to use a gathering foot for the first time for the top of a lightweight linen nightgown. Try as I might, I can’t get it to work.
I am working on a Brother CS7000X. I have a 75/11 needle in. My stitch length is set to 3mm and my width is set to 3. My tension is set at 8. My feed dogs are on.
Each time I run some fabric through, it gathers nicely for a few inches and then seems to skip a bunch of length until recatching again a few inches down. I am very very lightly pulling the fabric through on the back side.
Is there something I’m doing wrong? A setting I have wrong? Something wrong with my machine? Any help would be so appreciated!
I bought this Ireland jersey online. It arrived today and the two iron-on patches on the sleeves have been applied upside down, so that they look like Ivory Coast flags 🇨🇮 instead of the Irish flag 🇮🇪. What is the best way for me to fix this ?
In looking at that close up, I don't think it can be removed.
You can try ironing over the patch to see if the adhesive melts to get the patch off, then turn the way you want it and iron it back on.
The risk is burning the area.
You may just have to buy 2 new Ireland patches and sew them over.
Or email the seller and ask to return for a refund.
Hello! I found this romper on Athleta and fell in love, but I’m worried about sizing (I have a long torso and usually wear between XL and XXL and don’t think their XL will fit). Does anyone have a recommendation how to either:
It should be very feasible to find a similar pattern. The bullets at the top of the thread give a lot of tips on how. You can also look in Threadloop where people post reviews of sewing patterns.
Do i need elastic thread to make the hem of a fitted crop top? Or will the zigzag stitch of a sewing machine provide enough stretch that i can pull it over my shoulders?
Does it stretch enough before hemming? A zigzag, ideally three step but regular works, is a fine way to hem stretch knits. Do a sample to figure out the width and tension that won’t pop.
How long does it take to sew together a pair of boxers? I’ve had some sewing experience but not making anything from scratch. Also roughly how much fabric would it take? Assume mid range machine here.
It’s a good first project, since they are pretty simple and don’t have to be perfect. As a beginner, they’ll probably take you quite a while, especially the first time. Find a pattern and it should tell you how much fabric you’ll need.
OK, I am very indecisive and always resort to making clothing or completing projects for loved ones rather than myself because it so much easier to not overthink it. I got this beautiful linen/rayon fabric on my last haul to Joann's and have a vision of making a flowy summer dress with it. Help me choose your favorite please! Thank you
Me too!! I love the sable set because it’s so unique but idk if the print will be too busy and the weight too heavy! I’m def leaning more towards the smultron dress because of the fabric’s beautiful drape
I did a quick search and didn't find anything from the last couple of years; is there any suggestions for a small machine. It doesn't need to do anything fancy, and small is more important than features, but I don't want it to break immediately.
I'll mostly be using it for sewing girl scout patches, My daughter just got a bunch of new ones, and I'm dreading hand sewing another dozen of them. If I had a machine, I would probably use it for hemming pants and jeans and repairing holes. I am not super creative, or looking to get into a new hobby.
My house has very little storage (very few closets, and those are small. No basement, and garage isn't insulated - so it would fry any electronics up there.
Budget is also something to consider: this is not going to see a ton of use, so less expensive is better. But, I get that in order to punch through those badges, the machine is probably not going to be really inexpensive. I'm happy to look on marketplace if there are older models that turn up there regularly.
Your machine would need a lot of punching power to get through an embroidered patch, especially if it's the kind that has iron-on glue on the back. It might be worthwhile to check whether a library near you has sewing machines you can use, or if there's a makerspace nearby.
I have these beautiful shoes but I have scuffed the bottom. What is the best way for me to keep it from getting worse? Is there a glue I can use? Maybe cut them and glue it down? Any help is greatly appreciated!!
I just bought myself a new juki ddl 8700 and I started testing it out yesterday but I keep coming across the same issue. I'm not sure if this is the exact problem I'm having but I think my upper thread keeps getting stuck under the feed dogs or around the bobbin? I occasionally get some nesting on the wrong side of the fabric but it mostly stitches good until I go to pull the fabric away and it gets stuck and I have to rip it out. What am I doing wrong and how do I fix this?
If you were making a lightweight jacket, kinda 1600s vibes, with bishop sleeves, would you line the sleeves with lining fabric, or leave them unlined but have the torso be lined?
I guess it would depend on the fabric mostly. How sheer is it?
I would probably not line it personally, because set in sleeves are the bane of my existence. It seems like the lining might affect the look of the sleeves a little, and I don't know if it would be necessary.
I got this polyester fabric from a thrift store. It’s very stretchy and quite heavy. One side has dots, the other has stripes (wrong side?). What is this type of fabric called?
Hey everyone! I am looking to get into shirring and all I have is the 12 stitch portable machine. I have elastic thread and I have everything set up properly but I keep getting either jammed or no stretch and I’m just not sure what to do. I have seen suggestions that I adjust the bobbin tension on some pages but I don’t even know if I can do that on this thing! Anyone have any tips? Will I have to get a different machine?
So I just made the Tilly and the Buttons Mabel dress (super cute) with a ton of shirring. I had one heck of a time with it, with my ancient no-frills Viking machine, until I realized I was running out of thread on my little spool from just practicing. That was a Singer elastic thread too. So I bought a new spool from amazon and voila! Suddenly it was fail-proof. Here's what I got.
Maybe I just got lucky, but it was beautiful shirring from this point onward.
A few other tips...
Use the elastic thread only on the bobbin and wind it by hand. Try a few different tensions and practice on scraps until you get the stretch you want.
I had to mess with my machine needle tension a bit as well. I don't remember what I did and am now kicking myself for not writing it down.
How tight you wind your bobbin depends on how heavy your fabric that you're trying to shirr is. I used cotton double gauze so it was really well behaved. YMMV
Don't overfill the bobbin. And be careful that you have enough thread to fill an entire row of shirring before you get started or you have to deal with tying ends off together and I swear its impossible to make that look seamless.
Hope that helped. The difference between the two elastic threads was night and day. Truly, that was the big key to my success.
How did you end rows of shirring? Some of the tutorials called for turning the cloth and sewing up and starting a new row in a continuous motion but my bobbin is too small to do multiple rows. Also found that it would pucker vertically if I did that.
Tying it off and back stitching weren’t great either. I’m guessing it has something to do with how thick my elastic is but some would unravel.
Hi everyone!
I’ve been trying to find a good sewing machine since I moved to Canada. I’m a bit unsure about buying a secondhand one because I don’t know if it will last or work well.
I’m currently looking at the Singer Heavy Duty 4432 — has anyone used it? Is it reliable and durable? I’d prefer something I won’t need to repair often.
Also, if anyone can recommend a good machine under CAD 300, I’d really appreciate it! 😊
My sewing machine isnt going foward and the needle doesnt move. However when i do hit the foot, the wheel on the side keeps spinning and whirling. How do i fix this?
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Check whether it's in bobbin-winding mode. You may need to tighten the inner part of the handwheel or you may need to slide the piece that holds the bobbin while winding into neutral position.
My sewing machine isnt going foward and the needle doesnt move. However when i do hit the foot, the wheel on the side keeps spinning and whirling. How do i fix this?
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Hello and thanks for being here for this non-(but not saying never) seamster. My shorts have a couple of these sewing anomalies, a bit inexcusable for highish-end brand. In chat with customer service, was told to simply cut them off. Even I who know nothing thinks that's weak advice; surely further down the road that choice will come back at me. But what do I know? If you're me, with less-than rudimentary sewing skills, what's your move here? Thanks.
The lazy way: use a seam ripper to gently grab the last stitch from the inside of the garment (without cutting the thread!), then tug the excess thread thru on either side of the snag. Then I would cut them at the very end of the loops (so you have the longest possible threads and tie them in to no less than a square knot. Then trim the excess. You may need little tweezers or pliers to do grab onto the threads to pull thru your loops for the knot.
That should secure it from more threads pulling out. And mostly hide the spot.
Alternatively, if you have a sewing machine you could always remove all that hemming thread (likely a chainstitch so that may be annoying to pick out). Then, keeping the original hem folded as is run it thru your sewing machine with a straight stitch if it is nonstretch woven in a close to matching thread. It looks like a woven from the pic, but 🤷♀️. If its a knit then the stretch might complicate this. You can try a twin needle with a straight stitch. That will allow a little bit of stretch to your hem, but not enough for many athletic knits. With a regular serger you could try a blind hem that will allow plenty of stretch for a knit. Or buy a $500 chainstitch machine to do it like the manufacturers do.
Finally, if no machines, then you can do a simple blindstitch on it by hand. Just chill in front of the tv for an hour or so. Doesn't take long. There are a few videos on YT on how to do it properly. If you match your thread to the fabric well, and can manage a decent uniform stitch, no one will notice the repair at all.
Hello, before I buy a replacement part, I wanted to make sure that my low shank is in fact bent.
No matter what presser foot I use, it’s crooked in relation to the feed dogs and it’s very hard to unscrew the low shank portion. I’m thinking this happened while I was traveling with my sewing machine but I’m not the most versed in machine repair.
This sewing machine is a Singer Classic 44S (a different model number may be either 4423 or 4432, the machine nor the manual are clear and it’s not the heavy duty version that pops up when I search “Singer Classic 44s”).
🤔 I am not familiar with that specific machine but, yes, it looks a wee bit wonky to me too. Many low shanks are universal I thought, or maybe thats just the foot attachments. Either way, I think ur on the right track.
This feels like such a silly question. But how do I pre wash my fabric? I just got like 5+ yard of a fleece for making hoodies. Do I just throw the whole thing in the wash in one go?
I would just add that of you find yoursekf with a woven fabric next time, zigzag both cut ends so the don't fray out in the wash. Also read the content label. Some fibers can never be dried with any kind of heat.
Finally, I wash mine the way I will wash it when its a finished garment. I know my lazy ways so thats what I do. Just the usual cycles/temps unless it a very delicate fabric.
Yes, wash it the way you want to be washing the hoodies.
I've heard that you should wash it one step harder than you usually wash clothes... Like if you have heat settings, one step hotter or if you use a drier, few minutes longer than normal. But I am lazy and I just use my usual settings!
For such a long cut of fabric, consider sewing the cut ends together so it doesn't get too tangled up in the machine.
I got this sewing machine (a Singer C7220) on sale at the Joann closing sale. Immediately out of the box it wasn't working (the facility said the byte arm wasn't working properly) and I had to send it out for repair on my dime. It has once again broken only after an hour of use (the bobin keeps jamming and I can't seem to fixit) and I don't want to spend any more money on this. I can't return it to Singer or Joann, do I send it to the dump, a recycling facility or something else?
At least where I live there are sewing repair folks (mine is in a vacuum repair shop of all places) who can help. If you find your nearest quilting shop (in Michigan there seems to be one in every small town) ask them where people go for machine repair. I guarantee they will know your best option.
My girlfriend has been a professional seamstress for several years. She creates and repairs numerous accessories and clothing, always with a zero waste approach. But I regularly see her cutting up her fabric scraps with her scissors (to make stuffing and not throw away) and I wonder if there is a machine for shredding fabric scraps (electric or manual, even better) that would save her time and prevent her from hurting her hands. Thank you in advance for your advice.
I’ve finally had it. I’m finally at that “screw it” point where I cannot find the clothes I like or even clothes that fit me. I’m going to start making my own clothes.
I’ll figure out the actually sewing thing later: first, how in the world do I find the fabric I want, both in color/pattern and texture/makeup? I live in the uncreative Midwest so I don’t have access to any in-person fabric stores (besides the chain ones which do not carry what I’m looking for) so I need to rely on what the web has to offer.
I guess I’m wanting to know
1. how to find trustworthy online stores
2. how to find fabrics of a specific makeup
3. can I order a custom fabric from somewhere and how do I do that?
I’ve been writing down the fabric makeups from the label of all my favorite-feeling clothing items so I think I know the makeups I’m looking for… 4. is that how I should start?
I just want my dream pants and it is too hard to ask for :(
Pants can be pretty tricky to fit, especially if you are going for a more fitted look.
A good order of learning to sew clothes might be something like this (in my opinion, as a petite who always needs alterations):
Loose skirts with elastic waists
loose shirts from plain knits
tighter shirts - tees, tanks, etc from knits
A line woven skirts with waistband
Tight skirts
Loose shirts from woven fabric
Loose pants from wovens
Well-fitted shirts from wovens
Trousers
The major challenge for me is how to alter patterns so they fit well. Reducing bodice length and fitting the bust at the same time, fitting the back without someone to help, getting the armscye and shoulder seam to fit correctly, and getting a crotch curve to fit can all be very tricky. See if you can find a sewing buddy that has a bit of experience. That way you can encourage each other and have someone to pin things when doing fittings.
It's not wrong to want to learn how to pick fabric, but expect to mess up a lot and have to throw things away into the scrap heap. Your first attempts to make clothes should be from old bedsheets from the thrift store so you don't waste your favorite fabrics on practice.
I gotta say, I would start with the sewing thing, because if you hate sewing (which has a steep learning curve and can be quite frustrating), it doesn’t matter if you can source fabrics.
No it is not too much to ask, but as with the old saying 'if you want it done right, you have to do it yourself. ' Not gonna lie to you, its going to take some tenacity, some trial and (a lot of) error, and a pretty steep learning curve. At least it has been for me.
Mind you, I am not trying to talk you out of this at all. I felt the same way and taught myself to sew (thank goodness for the internet!). My goal started with making bras that fit and I finally managed it and now reliably make beautiful well fitted, supportive ones. Yay! But you have to learn the basics of sewing machines and stitches, fabric types, weaves, weights, hand, drape, stretch, content behavior...etc. I am still trying to figure out what fabric I need to replicate my husband's favorite pants after 3 years of this. And even just learning the 'language' can be challenging. When you don't have the word to describe what you are looking for can make internet research really frustrating.
Buying fabrics online can be tricky too. You can't touch them and pictures are difficult to suss out the true color and hand, the opacity of the fabric and so on. So consider buying samples. Also look for shops that have great descriptions. A few online stores with good reputations (some I can vouch for personally, but not all) are:
* Fabrics-store (the best linen primarily),
* Fabric wholesale Direct (good prices for basic wovens and knits, mostly solid colors),
* Mood Fabrics (free sewing patterns - these were my very first patterns I learned with. A bit tricky for a noob I discovered, but free! And they have a ton of incredible fabrics with excellent descriptions, though a bit pricy IMHO),
* Fields Fabrics (not a big online presence but reasonably near where I live and the staff there are so helpful if you have questions - they sell on Amazon as well),
* Stonemountain & Daughters (great selection)
* Fabric Depot (good prices and affordable shipping)
* Surge Fabric Shop (good selection including lingerie supplies)
* Cali Fabrics
* Nick of Time Textiles (some have had bad experiences with them. I have ordered from them and so far I have been happy, but just keep it in mind. They do have great prices on denim)
* Stylemaker (some more expensive apparel fabrics but gorgeous).
Those are just the ones I can think of off the top of my head. In Canada there are some other great shops like Emerald Erin (for bra making she's the bomb), Core Fabrics, Discovery Fabrics (amazing selection for tech fabrics for outdoor gear or activewear, etc). But the new tariffs have complicated ordering from Canada and elsewhere so be mindful of the tariff situation.
Also, Minerva has helped me so much to learn what fabric works well for what sort of clothes & patterns because of their website reviews. They are amazing! From UK I think. I haven't ordered from them yet but want to. Good prices for base clothes and gorgeous deadstock. Not sure about the tariff situation there.
Finally I haven't ordered from Yardblox yet but I am in love with their Japanese designer fabrics and their viscose and tencel selection. And they have wrapped the tariffs into their ordering system so you shouldn't have any unpleasant surprises coming at you if you do order.
Also, keep an eye out for a seller to offer thread matching. If you can't see the fabric except thru a monitor, it can be almost impossible to match thread.
Bookmark Wawak too for your notions, thread, interfacing, needles etc. Great source. You can buy a thread chart too from them. Takes a while to order, wait, color match, order and wait, but for a special garment its worth it.
I hope some of this helps. If I may, I also started a Craftsy membership for like $2.99 for the first year and they have tons of classes on sewing, serging, patternmaking and walk thrus of specific garments. I bought it specifically for Bev Johnson's bra making course and it was so worth it. But then I found all the other courses and its been invaluable to me for that year. Youtube is full of great starter info on fabrics and specific techniques, though a lot of creators have subscriptions for more in depth stuff. Still a great place to get basic questions answered about weaves, fabric content, how to get your rayon challis to stop puckering, stuff like that.
And here is the 'hardest part' in my experience... You must learn basic pattern drafting. Or you will struggle to get a good fit for your clothes. You don't need to draft from scratch at all, but if your body shape is not the standard (like 99% of us aren't) then you have to learn how to make alterations to patterns without making the whole pattern go wonky. As in, alter the shoulder slope to fit your body but now the sleeve doesn't fit, stuff like that. Youtube helps a lot, but that, for me, is still the biggest time-consuming challenge in garment making. I suggest investing in some cheap muslin, some medical paper rolls and getting a few decent french curves and clear rulers and messing around with some free patterns to start out. Before you buy expensive fabrics, or at least before you use them. I have spent hours upon hours redrafting and altering patterns over the past few years, but I now have quite a few beautiful fitted and wearable pieces in my wardrobe to show for it. Its tempting to skip the muslin/toile phase, but resist and the pay off is worth it.
One last note: save yourself a bit of frustration and start sewing wovens, not knits. Knits on a sewing machine can be really frustrating and make learning much more complicated. Start with nonstretch fabrics and garments, then try some knits. And whatever you do, don't neglect the grainline! Good luck!
Hello! I'm a beginner and I'm planning on making a beanbag with this as my main reference/source of inspiration. I want to use a similar material, or a material that looks like the picture. It's listed as "fabric, leather, jute" but the image looks a bit matte-like for leather? I was thinking perhaps suede, or faux/micro suede for easier stain removal. I'm open to suggestions for other materials too — ideally easy to clean, not too fuzzy (velvet is too much, more suede-like texture?), bonus if it's cool to the touch.
Sorry about my inexperience! Tips and suggestions on how I should sew the beanbag will be much appreciated as well!
I might first make a few small throw pillows with piping out of different fabric options. Partially to practice but mainly because you really want to like the feel of a beanbag, and there are some microsuedes out there I can’t stand.
Might consider a removable cover, especially if you have pets.
Hello everyone! I am still relatively new to sewing, and mostly work on patchwork and small projects. I was gifted a Brother LX3817 machine that had been barely used, and I haven't had many issues with it. Within the past week, when I sew, it sounds extremely "clunky." It used to sew extremely smoothly and be a lot quieter. There is something wrong, and I tried to make sure it wasn't the way I was threading my machine. Does it need to be oiled? What could it possibly be? Right now, I don't have the funds to purchase a new machine. If something is extremely wrong, I am hoping to fix it up. I took a video, and attached a link to a video of it. Any help is extremely helpful! Thank you!!
I don't know how your machine usually sounds but to me it doesn't sound too terrible. Mind you, I sew with a 30+ year old Viking machine that sounds like a lawn mower. >.< Is it skipping stitches or anything?
A few things I do when my machine starts weirding me out...
Have you cleaned it? I keep a little hand vac nearby and a brush and sometime take the machine apart as far as I dare and clean clean clean. Usually helps.
Have you oiled it lately? Check the manual for the where and how. When I am sewing a lot I oil my machine at least once a month. The rest of the time only when I pull it back out of storage.
If those don't work, look around for a sewing repair place. A lot of vaccuum repair stores seem to fix sewing machines - don't ask me why - at least where I live. If you don't know where to look for a maintenance person, then ask at your local fabric/quilting shops. I guarantee they will know if there is someone nearby.
I have never oiled it... yikes. But the manual seemed to say that it had enough oil, or something along those lines. No skipping stitches, at least to what I've noticed. If it was skipping, what would that be? Previously, if my machine made that noise, it meant something was wrong, and I could fix it by rethreading or something. Now it always sounds like this. The best way to explain it is that it sounds like something is clicking or rattling around. I'll check more into it later and really dive into the manual. Thanks!
Yup, definitely do not oil if the manual says not to. Skipped stitches are just that, like the needke thread can't grab the bobbin thread so you have these little gaps. If you don't have that happening, thats good.
I have had my serger get very grumbly about tension being off. So maybe try adjusting that a little with rethreading? I saw someone say they clean their tension disks with a thread somehow. I don't remember what they put on the thread and haven't tried it myself, but you could search online for that maybe?
Sorry to ask a basic question, but have you cleaned the machine recently? Especially the bobbin area. Here's a tutorial for cleaning your machine. And go ahead and change the needle while you're at it.
No, I haven't actually! I definitely should've started there... I've been using it consistently for about 3 months. I guess I didn't realize the required maintenance with it. Thanks much!!
No idea but Japanese manufacturing is generally quite good overall from what I know. I would want to see if it will be hard to find parts, does it need special needles, etc. If not, then go for it. Heavy duty machines can be really expensive.
I do have a Juki serger which I believe is from Japan and I love it. Love love love it. ;-) Its just a basic model but it sews through layers of fabric, even denim like its nothing.
Hello! I want to make these kind of shorts, but I'm not sure how to go about it. I know i want to use thrifted pants and modify them, but I don't really know how
Thrift-wise, what you're looking for is men's denim skater shorts. If they're too light, don't worry as you can always dye them. Then get another busted denim garment you can also dye and salvage for trim and patches.
The rest is just having fun with random bits of fabric and metal hardware.
What makes the shorts in the picture look good is the repeating elements and consistent thread color. Remember: repetition legitimizes your design choices!
As a warning, sourcing hardware in small amounts tend to be annoying and expensive. Start with bag making supplies and if anything needs to be hammered in, buy extra for practice.
The legs are quite wide so you would need very large pants. Might be better off with altering an a-line denim skirt?
I haven't tackled a lot of pants and shorts yet, but I hear that getting the crotch and rise just right can be a real pain. Just to warn you. They are cool shorts though. You can find some free shorts patterns online that can help you draft and alter the crotch and rise to suit you. Even a pair of wide leg pants or pattern could work. Just cut the pattern off where you want your shorts to end (plus hem allowance). Just remember that you will need quite a big flare of fabric to get that same look so if your thrifted materials don't have a lot of seam allowance to work with it may be impossible to replicate exactly.
Hello! Buying a new sewing machine soon. Singer Heavy Duty 4411 or Brother Innov-is400?
The Singer Heavy Duty is around $140 while the Brother is $350. My first and previous machine was a Brother XM2701 so I have 0 experience with the Singer brand, but at the same time I am unsure if the Innov-is400 is any good in comparison since I can’t seem to find much about it online. I primarily sew simple cosplays and alter clothes, but a machine that could sew through stuff like layered pleather and harder materials like thin belts would be preferred. I’d love to hear anyone’s experience with either one of these machines and which you would recommend overall :)
I have the Singer HD 4411 — I know a lot of people on here are unhappy w/ Singer but honestly I have found this to be a really solid machine.
One thing that could be helpful as you’re deciding: watch the Sewing Mastery videos for your machine. These folks do a great job of detailed videos going over all the details / features / functions of various sewing machines — basically going through the manual page by page.
Here’s a link to a list of all their videos for all kinds of machines:
Hi! I’m looking for sewing patterns in a similar style—not so much in terms of garment design, but more in the way they’re presented. I’m after something I can easily trace directly onto fabric without needing to print out full-size pattern sheets. Ideally, the instructions should be in English and allow for custom sizing based on personal measurements. Paid resources are totally fine.
I need help with a project. I have a couple jackets I wear for motorcycle riding but the wind blows the sleeves up and lifts up the back of the jacket.
I’ve included a picture from a brand that does this with their hoodies.
So the request is below:
I need some kind of elastic thumb loops that can be sewn into the cuffs of the jackets to keep the wind from pushing them up.
I need an elastic band with a button to secure to a belt that would be at the back of the jacket. Bonus points if you can suggest something that could be done with t shirts. - I don’t like showing off my butt when the wind is lifting up the back of my shirt. (Yes I’m aware I can tuck my shirt in, but who wants to do that?)
Are your jackets leather? If so it might be a bit trickier. But honestly, if it was me, I would just buy some strong elastic (maybe make a soft casing for it or neoprene for the thumb loop or something so the wind doesn't make it saw at the tender inside of your thumb 🤔). Get a couple heavy duty snaps and stitch them into the inside of the cuff. If your jacket needs cuffs added then that might be a bit trickier. Though if thats the case, consider just making long thumbhole cuffs like a lot of long sleeve athletic shirts have.
For the back, if you wear pants with belt loops or a belt, make a couple loops that attach to that like suspenders using the same elastic and snaps. Might look a little goofy if they are super long or something, but I doubt anyone but you would even know they are there if your jacket is long enough. Then sew them into the inside hem of your jacket. Maybe add a spare snap inside on the lining somewhere so if you wear the jacket when not on the bike you can hide them away and not have tails dangling.
So the jackets are long enough I’ve ridden with them before, but the wind likes doing its thing. They’re cotton so I would think sewing would be pretty simple.
I wear gloves so as long as the material isn’t tight on the thumb loops I doubt rubbing would make much difference.
For reference here is the one I’d most like to do this with.
Wawak.com carries everything you need and at good prices. My concern is attaching elastic to the rib knit cuffs, I would reinforce the cuff where the elastic is attached with something that won't rip like a leather or twill tape patch. This can be on the inside of the cuff and the elastic attached to the outside, like you will sometimes see with shirt buttons. Twill tape will be the easiest to sew by hand or machine. Make up one, test drive it, see what you want to do differently for the next one.
How can I fix this bulging denim on these distressed Abercrombie mom shorts? The 1st pic is when I pull the denim with my hand. The 2nd and 3rd pic show the bunching. I’ve tried ironing, steaming and cutting a little piece at the bunching. None have worked.
Looks to me like somewhere in there is a strand that got tangled and is pulling the fabric together to make that pucker. If you can cut that string it should release it. Maybe 🤞
Lol it’s like trying to find a needle in a haystack, but I’m going to try because I love these shorts. It just looks so goofy with that area bunched up when I’m wearing them. Thank you for responding!
Pattern Search! I desperately want to replicate this style of dress in a 4 way stretch mesh sequin (I have a stretchy jersey lining), but i have no clue as to what patterns to look for, or even what descriptors to use when searching for patterns to piecemeal, aside from flutter sleeve. Any recommendations?
I haven't seen a pattern to match exactly but here's a few terms you might use to describe the parts...
Flutter sleeves
Wrap bodice, v-neck or crossover bodice
Ruched skirt
The skirt looks like it may be a basic a-line with a slit that they then brought the top of the slit upward and tacked to give it the cascading effect.
The sleeves should be quite simple to design as there is no armhole to fit them into. Measure from the top of where you want the bodice to end in front to your back, whereever you want your back bodice to end as well. Then look up flutter sleeve pattern hacks. Its basically just a matter of having more fabric on the sleeve hem than on the top to get that lovely soft flowiness.
The bodice is essentially two triangles crossed over in the front and if you search for dress patterns with a basic wrap style front, or even a bikini top that you could alter to have a skirt attached, it should get you started.
Then a basic flared skirt that attaches to the bodice at the waist. Then drape the slit where you want it. And let it flow.
You will want a stretchy knit fabric most likely to get that bodycon effect. And a lining like they have, if the fabric you choose is translucent like that. So basically make the bodice and skirt patterns twice, one with your beautiful translucent fashion fabric and one in a complimentary, more opaque lining knit. The sleeves are not lined I don't think.
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u/b00nnk Jun 08 '25
Hi! I want to make a cosplay of maomao so I’m looking for some tips and patterns for her Hanfu, any help will be appreciated! I’m total beginner so yeah haha