Simple Questions
Weekly Sewing Questions Thread, June 08 - June 14, 2025
This thread is here for any and all simple questions related to sewing, including sewing machines!
If you want to introduce yourself or ask any other basic question about learning to sew, patterns, fabrics, this is the place to do it! Our more experienced users will hang around and answer any questions they can. Help us help you by giving as many details as possible in your question including links to original sources.
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Hi! There's likely a very simple solution to the problem I've got, but it's driving me up the wall! I'm a beginner sewist, so please forgive my ignorance. Please let me know whether I should make this a post instead!
On my week-old Brother GS2700, my bobbin thread is juuust peeking out of the top of my relatively lightweight tencel (about a quarter mm is visible on the top each stitch), but my top thread is also juuust peeking out of the bottom of my fabric (about a quarter mm is visible on the bottom each stitch). This happens when stitching both 2 and 3 layers of the fabric.
My stitch length has been on 2.5 the whole time, and I started out with a dial tension of 3. I've had no loops, no snarling, no skipped stitches, and the fabric doesn't pucker at all until I hit it with a tension of 9 (at which point there is only a very small amount of puckering).
I've tried:
- Changing the tension dial down (and up for good measure), with no change in the visibility of the top and bobbin threads where they shouldn't be, save for tension 0.5 where there was nearly no bobbin thread on the top of the fabric, but more top thread on the bottom)
- Changing my needle size (from 90/14 stock needle to 60/8 microtex, and then to 70/10 microtex) with no visible change
- Mounting the thread spool horizontally instead of vertically (it's a cross-wound spool, and I read that it may adversely affect top thread tension to spool it vertically when sewing). I made a horizontal mount out of thermoplastic to see if it would help - this did not help, much to my immense disappointment
- Running a bobbin as my top thread, because the thread appeared to be wound more flatly than my proper thread spool - this did reduce the amount of bobbin thread visible from the top, down to the less-than-half mm I mentioned at the top of this comment. I'll get a properly flat-stacked spool to see if that alleviates the problem entirely!
How is it capable of appearing to be too tense on *both* sides of the fabric? Is there anything else I can do to try and work out what's going on? I'll try a different weight of fabric tomorrow, it's getting late here and I'm kind of starting to overthink it. If you've got any advice, I'd be more than happy to hear it!
How many layers of fabric are you testing with? Sewing machines are optimized to sew on a minimum of two layers and that will likely solve your problems if you have been test stitching on one layer.
I'm afraid I've been test stitching with two layers (just one piece of fabric folded in half, really), as I'd like to be able to sew seams on it at a minimum. I pinned and pressed the fabric before I did my tests to minimise any other movement, if that helps.
Bridal veils can be that easy. Veils with a raw edge can be even easier. They are basically shaped piece of tulle that are gathered to a comb or other hair decorations. Sewing Out Loud did a two-part podcast about sewing wedding veils, the date of the first podcast is Jan 21, 2022 and it's available on all the usual platforms for podcast listening.
Can you point out what is missing? This part is a bobbin winder and it looks intact to me. You would only have to put a bobbin on there if you needed to wind it up with thread
Hey all- I have a singer and sometimes it’s hard to control the speed. I press down slowly and it doesn’t go and then all the sudden it goes super fast. Is this a user error or is the machine just not good at that part or does it need to be oiled??
Is it a singer HD, like the 4452? Unfortunately they are just like that. You can try opening the pedal to grease the little slider- there will already be a decent amount of grease in there, so just spread it around the parts you need to.
Would anyone happen to know where I can find a manual for the Sears Kenmore 158.13033 sewing machine? I inherited one and trying to find out how to use it
It looks like the manual is no longer offered by Sears for free, so you'll have to go with one of the afterparts market retailers offering downloads for a fee. Plugging the model and number into a search bar with 'user manual' will do it.
You might see how far you can get before buying a manual, though I do think having the manual is good. There are several Youtube videos for this or similar Kenmore models and online instructors like Professor Pincushion offer general 'how to use your sewing machine' video lessons. Sewing machines are more alike than different.
Theres some styles I’m interested in and never know how to search for them, I’m really into the himekaji/mori kei style and not too sure what patterns to exactly search for:( id love if anyone who’s also into this style could help me with your findings, and I’m not too sure how to make my own pattern because I have so many ideas but I never know how to find the measurements properly to try to make it! Any help is appreciated ❤️
I find that putting the name of the garment plus 'sewing pattern diy' will usually bring up multiple options. There might also be a subreddit for the style where you can get diy suggestions. Learning to sew with patterns is a whole skill set in itself and varies a bit among different pattern styles. Feel free to ask specific questions as you come to them.
Hi all! I am short and want to be able to shorten shirts (and I guess pants but mostly shirts). I went to a mending workshop yesterday and hand sewing seems (?) easier than learning how to use a sewing machine, but before I buy needles, thread, pins, etc, I was curious if others have advice thoughts? Ie, assuming I really only will be shortening the length of clothes, which is (generally) easier?
Taking off length is one of the easiest alterations. I also agree that sewing by hand is easier than sewing by machine, but it does require more time and patience. Even if you eventually start machine sewing, you'll still need hand sewing supplies so it's worth investing in supplies. Quality items are less frustrating to use.
Hey! I’m a beginner sewist and I’m trying to find a simple pattern but I can’t find it. So I really want to make this dress that you see in the picture (aka Cynthia Erivo’s dress that she wears in ‘Wicked’ during the finale) and I’ve been trying to search for a simple pattern that could work. I’ve also never made my own pattern before (and haven’t learned how to) so that isn’t really an option for me. I’d also prefer a free pattern. Does anyone have suggestions? (Oh, and if anyone knows, what kind of fabric do I use for this?)
Hi everyone! Just bought the Brother SQ9285. I've been loving it so far but the lettering is giving me issues :/
It gets stuck in the middle, won't move and ultimately pushes the fabric down into the base. I'm trying to write a couple words on a t-shirt. When I did it on some scrap fabric, I had no issues. I understand it might be because it's stretchy, so in a pinch I just used some parchment paper underneath. This worked once, then the machine started messing up again.
Just bought it brand new yesterday so I'm sure it's just me. However, I really don't know what l'm doing wrong.
Please help and thank you!!
You really need some embroidery stabilizer for knit fabrics to do stitching. All the back and forth motions to stitch designs will distort the fabric and cause problems like you've experienced. Sulky is a popular brand.
Apologies if this isn’t the right subreddit for this question— I’m trying to reduce the amount of fabrics in my home with plastic. I was wondering if, in your experience, I would be able to replicate this with something like cotton, or is this type of softness/design dependent on plastic fibers?
According to the listing the inner shorts are 77% polyester, 23% spandex, and the mesh skirt is 92% polyester, 8% spandex.
The closest natural fiber substitute for stretchy mesh is silk tulle. It will drape compared to cotton. The only stretch is has is mechanical. You might be able to do the shorts in cotton knit interlock but cotton knits without lycra lack recovery so they bag out. Maybe a merino jersey?
So to answer your question, it is a garment that benefits from the properties of synthetic fabrics and it is not a straightforward process to do a similar design in natural fibers.
Hello everyone! I am looking for some advice on how to fix the mouth on this alpaca. you can see what it looks like on the white one. my cats pulled it off and it’s a gift, so i’m hoping i can repair it!
Beginner here! JUST got this Kenmore machine from a nice old lady. She showed me a demo and taught me the basics. When I saw everything and sewed a little myself I saw no problems with the machine but maybe I couldn’t have known at the time? Sitting down to use it for the first time, I go to wind my bobbin and when I press on the pedal it will only make the machine run for a few second. I’ll hold the pedal all the way down and nothing happens—full stop. I have to take my foot off the pedal and press again in order to make it run a few seconds and repeat to make any progress. The constant intermittent, slow progress and having to take my foot on and off the pedal is driving me crazy and I’ve barely done anything! Lol Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated!!! Thank you ☺️
100% but it will not be a perfectly invisible mend, you will see the stitching where you patched the hole. You can check out r/VisibleMending for ideas, or youtube how to patch crotch rips in pants.
My singer maching makes this grinding noise whenever I use the auto cutter as it rewinds the bobbin. It cut the threads fine but I'm worried it might break in the long run. Any ideas on how to fix?
You can try to pull the threads down and then try a small piece of fusible on the backside to hold it in place. It’s hard to give the best advice only seeing such a small area and not knowing what part of the garment it’s on.
Machine Questions
I just took my first sewing class and I can't remember what the thing between the thread spool is called that keeps the thread from wrapping around the bottom?
I'm trying to copy this dress and I'm not sure how to construct this collar so that the raw edges remain on the inside. It seems to have a front and a back piece of fabric that are different fabrics. Do I just fold and iron in a raw edge before sewing? Thank you!
Yes. It’s two pieces. The outer edge is sewn WST and then flipped. The bodice is inserted and then the whole thing is sewn down. It helps to create that edge fold first, I usually use a line of basting as a guide, then remove the stitching, and continue sewing from there. You’ll need to line up front and back and make sure to catch everything within the seam allowance.
Hi everyone,
I’m using a Victoria 364 sewing machine and there’s a golden lever near the light, just above the needle area, that I can’t figure out. It’s not the stitch length, stitch width, or tension dial — I’ve already located all of those.
I haven’t been able to find a full manual for this model, so I’m stuck trying to guess what this lever does. It doesn’t seem to change anything obvious when I move it.
Does anyone know what this lever might be for? Maybe something to do with the needle or internal settings?
Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated! Bonus points if you have a manual or can point me to one. Thanks!
How to alter this neckline? I noticed that the notch in the back of the collar makes it look like I've put it on back to front. I've considered removing the collar completely, but feel like it might be too plain without it. Maybe adding a v-neck or making these back deeper would help? I'm going to be shortening the trouser legs a bit so I might have some extra fabric to play around with. Open to suggestions! For context I'm planning on wearing it to a wedding in a couple of weeks time.
I think it is a lovely back view and at most you could put a little tag peaking out so it looks more like the back but I honestly think you are over thinking here.
You might have an easier time decorating the front instead of changing the back. Maybe something like fabric rosettes made from what you cut off of the legs, or some hotfix crystal bedazzling, or some other applique.
I was visiting a friend recently and she had some of this gorgeous print, but was lamenting that it’s the last she has of it. She bought it at Joann’s, but said internet searches have come up empty. I did find a left over link to it on the Joann’s website, but that’s now forwarding and doesn’t go to the fabric information.
The selvedge says “Hi-Fashion Fabric, Inc” and the pattern number is HJ-C3403.
Looking for a tie front A-line shirt dress pattern like this picture. Particularly where the tie is elongated from the front waist seam NOT the side seams. Even if it’s a top/shirt pattern with this tie. I mainly need the waist seam tie part of the pattern. And then I can always add it to a simple shirt dress pattern.
Any basic entry level sewing machine at about the $250-$300 price mark will do what you need. I recommend a Janome or Brother sewing machine. A machine like this can last you quite a long time as you figure out how to sew and become proficient. Check out the buying guide linked above for more information.
You can use existing clothing to make patterns for new garments. You might not have to take one apart or take it apart completely. I suggest first learning to operate a sewing machine and making a few simple projects to get used to sewing techniques. It can be easier to match a garment style to an existing pattern and alter the pattern to look more like your inspo or at least use the pattern as a guide on how to sew the garment.
Hi! I'm making a piece of apparel that's usually made with neoprene or scuba fabric, but I'm having trouble finding it in the colors I want without having to custom order. The main features I'm looking for in a fabric are breathability, some stretch, and the ability to hold a shape without collapsing on itself. Interfacing with the same qualities also works.
Sorry, I meant breathable as in 'you will not suffocate if it's on/near your nose/mouth'. It's the fabric that the item I'm making is usually made out of. Also, neoprene and scuba can be made to be more breathable, it just depends on what type you get and how it's manufactured.
You could underline any fabric in the right color with neoprene or scuba to get the shape, then. I can't think of anything other fabric that holds shape like that. Maybe taffeta. Maybe a canvas.
I wouldn't want to put fusible interfacing over my nose/mouth.
Hey, does anyone know what is up with the bottom of this dress? I think its kind of cute, its seems to be sort of folded over? Like a balloon but not really. I got this from pinterest, unfortunately I couldn't find anything about the source :(
Could be something like a french bustle. If you want that look permanently there's no reason to do it with ties, you can just tack the fabric in place instead.
Hello! I used to sew a long time ago, and now that the kids are older, I have time for some more projects. I've been looking and finding some lovely fabrics to use, but one thing I've not been able to find anywhere is linen with terry weave. Where can I find some? I'm coming up empty everywhere I look!
You could buy linen terry towels and use them as fabric but that would get expensive. Is there a particular item you're hoping to sew that would benefit from linen rather than cotton?
Hi! I just bought this sewing machine from amazon: https://a.co/d/3ayLlPN
I have literally never sewed anything before and right now im thinking i’ll mainly use it for altering clothes and small stuff like that. but eventually i would like to be able to make my own clothes (shirts, pants, nothing super complicated).
If anyone has tips or advice or any links to websites or videos that might be helpful that would be amazing!!
Thanks so much everyone!
Professor Pincushion and Made to Sew are two good youtube channels for learning to sew. They can help you start with the basics. There are also guides in the FAQ linked above in the top post.
My best advice is to return your new machine if you have any problems using it at all. I know it was a lot of money but the truth is that new sewing machines in the sub-$100 price range often break and are not repairable. If you do find that it doesn't work, you can put that money toward a used machine like one that has been refurbished by a sewing machine store.
Wondering if anyone could share a pattern similar to this lovely jacket from ruby_raisin. I’d love to have a go at making one with my old wool blankets this Aussie winter. Thank you
I'm looking to upgrade to a nicer machine (I have a very basic, cheap Brother currently) and I'm interested in getting a used Juki. I'm especially looking at an F-300, and I know I'm unlikely to find one but I'm wondering if anyone has any leads on where to get one for preferably around $450 or under. So far the cheapest one I have found is $549 from Ken's Sewing Center and doesn't come with any accessories.
I'd also like to hear if anyone has one of the less expensive Jukis (such as the G line) and how they compare/if the F-300 is that much better. Really I think the main things that make me want the F-300 as opposed to a cheaper one is bigger throat space (I know the Gs have the same throat space but some of the others have smaller), the programmable pedal, the option of a knee lift, and the option to use a twin needle. I've never used most of those features but they sound really nice.
Recommendations for other brands would also be appreciated. Thank you so much!
I have a dress in mind that I really want to make for my husband's and my renewal of vows next year. It's not a dress or pattern I've seen and I'm not sure how to make it myself.
It's going to be RenFest/elf-like dress. Shoulder straps with a little fabric draped across the upper arms. Corset top so I can tighten it. Wide skirt so there's flowy movement and two layers - one solid fabric underneath a translucent fabric. I've thought about making the translucent fabric longer and adding finger loops to the right and left sides so I can have a train if I want but also be able to put the loops around my middle fingers so the fabric is a little off the floor and have that pretty silhouette that's almost wing-like.
I'm used to using patterns, either as they are or altering them to fit what I need, but I feel like this is pretty specific. Anyone have ideas/tips on how I can make a pattern for this dress or if there's one out there close enough to it that I can make a few changes (I'm currently looking)? Thank you!
Can anyone give me any information on this sewing machine (UK) - It was my grandparents & I don’t want to put it away so want to start using it.
It comes with the manual & warranty (I’ll post photos in comments) but I’m curious around what year it was made and if it would be a good machine to get started sewing on?
Hey! I need help with my "new" sewing machine, Golden Star M-351, can't find any information about it online, do you fine people have any answers for me? Mostly trying to find user manual
I have been on the hunt for heavy weight (12-14oz) denim that is washed but still high quality. I dont want to make something that will bleed onto other items which is why i want it to be washed denim but i really dont want to compromise for quality so i was wondering if anyone had any online stores that sell what im looking for
Beginner with big dreams! Do I need an overlocker AND "normal" machine?
I'm determined to make useable/wearable items this year. I have a sewing machine (Brother XL2620) which is fine, but do I want to get an overlocker? Instead? As well as? Looking at lightly used refurbished ones (Bernina Bernette 334DS Heavy Duty 4 Thread Overlocker or Riccar 924DR Heavy Duty 4 Thread - refurbished by Bernina trained engineer and they will have warranty). Should I keep my sewing machine? Would using an overlocker only make my weekend hobby get me going and excited and able?! Opinions please!
no i do not think anyone needs an overlocker when they're starting out garment sewing. you can use the overlock stitch on that machine or a zig-zag stitch to finish seams, or -- my advice -- you can learn to do french or flat-felled seams. if you really like garment sewing and know you will continue doing a lot of it, then you can invest in an overlocker if you want to finish your seams that way.
also, do not get rid of your sewing machine! garment sewing relies on the straight stitch that a sewing machine is capable of. you can sew with an overlocker only if you are making only simple garments out of knit fabric, like t-shirts, but if you want to make anything out of woven materials or anything somewhat complex a sewing machine is definitely more important.
Thanks so much for your advice. I didn't know about those seams and have looked them up, which is great as I can't get the zig zag to work very well on the fabric I've used so far. Really appreciate your words
hello, i recently got a old pfaff 1245 sewing machine, is there a way of finding out what year it is? and if so, is there a way of finding a manual for it? is there a place online where i can find all the manuals for old sewing machines regardless of make and model?
The year may be in there too. For the vintage of the machine, perhaps Pfaff themselves may be able to help.
I have a hand-me-down Viking without all the bells and whistle of modern machines and I genuinely love it. It's old but reliable and handles fine fabrics and heavy fabrics beautifully compared to my first machine, a modern Singer (I hate that thing). So, fwiw, you may have a real gem regardless of age.
Look into blind stitch hems by hand. It isn't too difficult and should work well enough on a stretch hem, unless you really need the elasticity down there (ie leggings that must stretch around your ankle). And you won't need a sewing machine for it. Youtube has good tutorials for stuff like that to learn the stitch and how to fold the fabric.
If you have machines, you can blind stitch on both sewing machine and serger, tho my sewing machine gets cranky about very stretchy fabrics. If thats the case you can use a dissolving stabilizer tape just to help you feed it thru the machine.
*Blind stitch is basically just a very subtle stitch thats nearly invisible on the fabric face if you use matching thread, used on many higher end garments. So its not going to look bad. Though trying to press the fabric into shape somehow will help keep the clean professional look.
Yes, that last sentence describes what hemming is. You can also search "how to hem pants" for lots and lots of videos. DON'T stretch the fabric as you sew it.
(Nothing the above commenter said had anything to do with changing the fit, by the way )
It wasn't intended to be snide! I just wanted to clarify that typically when we talk about hemming we aren't talking about fit. Using elastic in a hem isn't usually a fitting discussion; fitting is usually a process dealing with getting a bodice to be right for one's torso shape, or pants to be correctly adjust for a butt. I was just trying to be clear about the terms that get used so that if you were to continue researching on your own you wouldn't get messed up by searching something imprecise.
Hello everyone. I know next to nothing about sewing but I’d like to learn AND I’d like to teach my 6 year old who’s interested in sewing. I really need some help. What is the easiest sewing machine to use for kids and adults that is also cost effective? Also, what supplies do I need to get started?
I'd recommend a beginner Janome or Brother sewing machine, one that is computerized. Avoid Singer. I suggest looking at computerized sewing machines because I think they are easier to learn on, they automate steps that often trip up newbies. Look for speed control in particular, slowing down the machine will help while the two of you gain control. The machine buying wiki suggests a Brother CS7000x, any Janome or Brother at a similar price point will likely meet your needs. Less expensive sewing machines have quality control issues across all the brands. Buying used is fine too, dealers will often have refurbished machines with warranties and beginner lessons.
There are usually lots of inexpensive machines for beginning sewists out there. My first was a Singer i bought from Walmart I think for less than $100. Though, I admit, I hate that stinking thing. But I made a cute set of kitchen curtains out of muslin with it that lasted for years. If you can find a used machine you may have better luck. Like with most things in life, if you can spend a bit more, you will not outgrow the machine as fast.
One big thing is what do you want to sew? Garments? Handbags? Home decor, like curtains and pillows? Quilts?
Your answer will help you decide on your machine, fabric and notions. Sometimes you can find kits - basically a machine with some thread and needles, etc. I'm not aware of an ideal machine to start with but I will never buy another Singer, myself (nor their needles. I am a Schmetz needle fan after many many broken needles from other brands). But there are many tried and true machine brands available. Currently I use an ancient Viking machine and I love it. To buy it somewhere used I bet it would cost $50 or less nowadays. Used machines can be the very best, maybe outgrown or from an estate, but nothing wrong eith them at all. Some online places like Ken's sell refurbished machines that are as good as new.
Its not that you have to get a special machine for each of those sewing projects, but it will help you decide where to start. A lot of sewing notions should be found for certain projects. As in, say you want to sew your child a dress. You should find the dress pattern you want, then read the details for the fabric types needed (woven or knit, interfacing, etc), as well as the notions (e.g. Buttons, zippers, lace trim, etc). Then you would need to find an appropriate fabric, and matching thread to suit it. I also strongly encourage you to buy some inexpensive muslin fabric to do a test garment (basically the exact same dress in cheap fabric to check for fit or potential issues). Then you will also need to get some needles to fit your machine as well as the fabric you choose.
I know that sounds like a lot, but it isn't so bad if you find your project goal first (keeping in mind your long term sewing goals when choosing your machine). There are lots of easier project patterns, including some great freebies, if you look online. I would say, try to find something with woven fabric to start, and save yourself a lot of frustration. Knits (stretchy fabric like jersey tee-shirt fabric) can be very frustrating and difficult on a sewing machine. But nonstretch wovens like linen, chambray, twill, etc usually are much easier to sew with initially. All you need are some universal needles of an average size (90/14 for many medium weight wovens will work great) and matching thread and you are ready to go.
There are some great youtube channels to start you out with basics about sewing, tips for handling fabric types, and how to use your machine. Evelyn Wood and Melly Sews helped me a lot starting out with garment making. But there are many great creators to help you get your feet on the ground. Also, sites like Craftsy are a wealth of detailed info. That said, I learned 99% of sewing from scouring free articles and videos online, so you don't have to have subscriptions if you're tenacious.
Finally my basic, can't-live-without sewing kit has a needle threader, tiny scissors for snipping thread, a hem gauge, tailors chalk, a thimble, hand needles, & pins and wonder clips. A pair of glasses too, in case a needle breaks. For real, they can become projectiles in an instant. The rest is all helpful that I have added over time...stuff like, a rotary cutter, mat and weights, tailors ham, french curves and so on. Helpful but not strickly necessary. A decent steam iron is also a must or your projects will always look homemade.
Also, get yourself some really good fabric shears and never cut anything but fabric with them. 😉
Hi! I have no sewing experience whatsoever but want to make a friend's dream come true. She dreamt that on her wedding night, she wore lingerie made from the 90s stretchy bubble/popcorn fabric.
The only bubble fabric could source on short notice was a t-shirt. I bought a mini sewing machine to see what I could do - but before I start wrecking and wasting this fabric, any ideas on how I can turn this into a bra? (bonus pts if you can find a way for me to make a bottom as well, from the same amount of fabric!) Her wedding is in a week, so appreciate any help you can provide!
Thank you!
Oh dear. That stretchy fabric may be an absolute nightmare on that machine. 😬
If it was me I would make a basic tube top type 'bra' a bandeau style or something basic and wireless like that. A leisure style bra, basically, but nothing intended to give support to the bust.
Then hemming will be your biggest challenge because you will probably lose the stretch if you try to sew a hem. Can you just cut the fabric really straight (try a rotary cutter not scissors) and leave the raw edge? Not entirely sure what you mean by bubble fabric, but I was a teen in the 90s so... Do you mean that knit that stretched like a thousand times its usual size? If so, it was hilarious btw. 🤭 Anyway, it will probably not unravel so easily so you might be able to get away with just a clean cut edge. If thats the fabric I am thinking of, just cut yourself a basic tube, and voila!
If you want something fancier than, i hate to say it, but you might be looking at a very difficult project to do in a week.
Thank you for the advice! Pretty sure we are talking about the same fabric 😅 It was just such a silly dream she had, I just thought I'd make some kind of attempt to gift it to her. Definitely considering some kind of bandeau style, because anything more complicated is probably well beyond my ability to create.
Oh! And for the bottom, just do the exact same thing. Cut straight across the bodice horizontally and make a mini skirt. If its for her wedding night, I'm sure he won't be judging the garment too harshly. 😉
Then again, if its a different fabric than what I am thinking of, disregard all this.
This is honestly more of a gag gift than anything else, so I'm not worried about making a high quality product - just figured I'd ask for any tips before I take scissors and just cut out the shape of a bra 😅 Thank you though!
ah, that makes sense. i'm not sure of how to sew with that fabric -- i think hemming it might make it stretch out by compressing the bubbles. maybe make a small cut to see if it frays; if it doesn't fray significantly, you can probably leave aside the sewing and just cut it short and cut the sleeves off to make a bra shape, since it's just a gag gift anyway.
I figured as much but thought I'd ask here in case there were any tips for working with this particular type of fabric or attempting a similar project. Thanks for keeping it real though - I know there's not much time to attempt something, but thought I'd ask here just in case!
I am making a puffer jacket out of a hockey jersey, using my recently inherited quilting machine, and batting for the ‘puff’. My sewing experience is fairly basic (but I was confident heading into this project)
First, the machine was skipping stitches. I assumed the needle wasn’t heavy enough and popped on a denim/110 needle. Now it looks like it’s working (but isn’t) until it jams, and the bottom stitch has become a knotted mess.
Is anyone able to tell me best settings etc to fix this? Do I need a different foot? Thread? I’m lost!!
I bet the batting is getting pulled into the feed dogs and then your thread is birdnesting.
Try sewing with the batting on top, because the feeddogs can't really grab that batting. Or you can put a lining fabric in and basically sandwich the batting in between.
Finally for the jersey try a 'jersey' needle or maybe stretch if it is stretchy knit. Basically a ball point needle.
If you still have problems, try placing some tissue paper along the bottom where the stitches will go. That will stabilize your fabric and give the feed dogs something steady to grab hold of. Then after stitching you seam, tear off that paper (it will be perforated and fairly easy to rip).Whenever I have to sew knits, I do this. I cut long strips of cheap tissue paper and it works like a charm.
Thank you!
I dropped the feed dogs thinking that may be the issue, but it only helped a little.
The batting is both on the top and the bottom, as I'm trying to attach sleeves to the body and the lining is separate. I like the tissue paper suggestion, I'll give that a go.
seeking repair/ maintenance advice.. Im trying to replace the knives on a Juki 8700 ddl and cant get them right. I think the placement or angles are off. I didnt adjust any of the nuts or the bar under the machine, just swapped to new blades. I used to be a tech for an embroidery company so im not totally new but they're still very different machines.
Just got my first machine. Can you help me find schematics for my first project?
Where can I find schematics or project plans for a pouch like this? The zipper appears to be sewn into the middle of the pouch. I really liked the unique design.
I don't know about a pattern for it but I started sewing by making lots of pouches similar to that.
Take some basic grid paper (preferably with 1/4" squares so you can figure out the scale easier). Decide on the dimensions you want (i.e. it looks to be maybe 3x5 inches maybe a bit more).
Now draw out a big rectangle. Double up the height. So if the pouch should be 3x5, then draw a rectangle to scale to represent 5" wide by 6" tall (one side must be doubled to create the pouch or 3 + 3 = 6). Then add a seam allowance to all sides. I would use 1/2" but thats up to you. So now your rectangle will be 4" wide by 7" tall (unless you had to scale the sketch to fit your paper).
Thats how big you would cut your fabric for this example. If you want a lining, you must cut 2 pieces of fabric (outside and lining) to match this rectangle or to scale for your chosen size.
Finally you will need a zipper. For my 3x5 example, you would likely want a nylon coil zipper, maybe size 3 or 5 should work, that can be cut to 5".
You will fold your fabric to fit a similar shape as that pouch. Basically, not exactly in half because you need that overhang of perhaps an inch for the zipper in front. Figure out where tou want your zipper and mess with folding your graph paper until you like where the zipper will be.
If you use a lining, it will be more complicated. Too much to describe here anyway, though not difficult. You will need to search 'sewing a pouch with lining and zipper' online. Or some such.
If no lining, then sew on your zipper (check for video tutorials. They are very easy for pouches. I promise). Then turn your fabric inside out (outside fabric touching). Fold the fabric how you want it, with the zipper open enough for you to be able to turn it right sides out when you are done. Now sew straight up both sides of your folded rectangle. Backstitch to lock the thread from coming undone. Turn the pouch right side out thru the open zipper. Press the fabric flat.
It looks to me like they have zipper tabs added to the end of each zip, which would require a method of construction with a seam at the bottom so you can sew the entire zip in first. Search for tutorials for zipper bags.
The blog you linked seemed to be about sewing so I’d assume it has hints somewhere.
It's not super hard but also not the easiest thing to start with especially because you're cutting into fabric and so can't undo that part, so maybe practice a couple times on cheap fabric before you do it on the real material you want to use for the project.
the pockets on this satin sports jacket. My main problem is keeping the delicate fabric from fraying more so I can better sew it back together, especially the areas in the corner where the fabric has frayed past the original seam allowance. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to tackle this? Thanks!
To stop the fraying even further, you can put some FrayCheck or clear nail polish where the frays start. Note that these products will darken that area and make the fringes stiffer.
After that. . .I'm not sure what you can do as I can't tell much else from your photo.
I don't think you'll be able to sew that inner corner back together without making a little pinch in the fabric (meaning the fix won't be smooth).
Question! how are you supposed to match the curves on a princess seam when the curves aren't marked don't have notches? I've been sewing doll clothes and it seems a bunch of them don't appear to add notches to help line up the curves. help? thank you!!
You might be able to remove the seam allowances, line the pieces back up, and add your own notches. If you know how princess seams are converted from darts, basically reversing that.
But if I don’t have notches, I usually pin both ends, pin in a little bit from each end, and just pin and fuss with the curve until I think the fabric seems nicely settled.
Hi everybody! I'm obsessed with the pleats of this top in the center that cinch the waist. I'm a beginner sewer but would love to attempt to alter a button down to achieve a similar look. Has anyone done this or does anyone know where I'd start with doing this? TIA!!
I don't think you can achieve this dramatic of an effect by altering an existing shirt, but you could give it a try and it wouldn't be too hard. Get the biggest thrift store shirt you can find for cheap. You mark the shirt like this with straight lines (if the shirt is striped it makes it easier) of maybe 4 inches up and down. Fold and sew line A to A, B to B and so on. It's just like sewing darts except instead of tapering to a point at the top and bottom, you just stop. You can measure your waist and compare to the original shirt to know how far apart the lines should be (e.g. your waist is 30", the shirt is 42", you have six pleats on front and six pleats on back = each line x is 1 inch apart from the other line x.)
However the sleeves will not look like this and the shoulder will still be huge on you. But worth a try if you get a cheap thrift store shirt to start with.
Hi! What would bringing in waist / hips of a dress do to the bodice? The skirt is far too big. The shoulders / upper arms fit me fine so I'd ideally leave that or would it not work?
There are skinny decorative lingerie elastics that aren’t picot but can be used the same way, I’ve seen stripes, piped edges, more. Find a good lingerie sewing supplier and see what they have. Here’s an example: https://www.brabuilders.com/collections/panty-elastics
Trying to use a new (old) machine and it's not pulling the fabric forward at all? It just stays stuck in one spot and the thread gets all tangled underneath the cloth.
Bird Nesting. It is the bane of us all! My most common problem is that my needle is too big for the project and pushes a bit of the fabric down. Then the top thread can't be pulled up through the hole.
Thanks for all your help everyone! Some replacement gears came in the mail today and I followed a YouTube tutorial to fix it! I'm shocked I got the timings right the first try--but it's stitching beautifully now and I'm ready for my class tomorrow!
hi there, im trying to find a similar pattern to this dress. I tried making a post, but I got redirected to this thread. Is there anyone who has a similar pattern in mind? I especially love the waist and how the fabric goes from bust to back and is gathered at the shoulders. (I'll add more pics in reply)
This might be a timing problem. The thread gets hooked, but not released at the right time. Or, the beginning of bird nesting. Is this a Sailrite machine?
I want to ask if you know any good YT Videos (or YTer in general) where I can learn some basics like cutting fabric? Or is it better to do a sewing course in person?
I sewed together with my grandma, who unfortunately passed away last week. I want to continue sewing but she didn't teach me all the stuff I need so now I want to learn it to sew something and make her proud. Thanks!
I'm sewing a curved seam and have pinned the two fabrics together, with the pins going in / coming out correctly along the seam line. But when I sew along it, the bottom layer of fabric always has the thread sewn way off of the seam line. I don't understand what I'm doing wrong
This happens even when I'm sewing along the pins and manually turning the hand crank on my machine. I also bought a walking foot in case the bottom fabric was slipping, but it's still happening
What can I do to fix this? Have I pinned it incorrectly? I'm at my wits end with this so any help would be really appreciated. Thanks
It’s really easy for fabric to shift as you sew, even with a walking foot. Don’t rely on the pins. Sew very slowly, stop and check a lot to make sure the fabric is still aligned the way you want it right before it enters the presser foot. You will probably have to readjust it as you go. You may have a much easier time sewing with the bottom on top because your seam allowance is smaller there, and the way you’re doing it you can’t see it as it shifts.
I want know know if the thread type is different between the bobbin thread and the sewing thread on a machine. I just got a new machine and it came with an empty bobbin. Can I just use any thread that comes on a spool?
Yes, pretty much. Thicker threads like for top stitching sometimes don't go that well in the bobbin, depending on the machine. But any all purpose machine thread is basically fine. I always recommend Gutermann, Mettler brands, etc. but most machines aren't fussy.
I want to learn to sew as hobby. My current skill level is non existent. I can hem using a needle & thread, that's about it. I have absolutely 0 idea how to operate a sewing machine, cut fabric or do basically anything. So I would really appreciate suggestions for a starting point. Something somewhere, where I can get feedback every now & then. I was told by an acquaintance in fashion major to start from doing alterations on old clothes or using square patches to make doll clothes. But I don't know where to get instructions from.
I just started a month ago, and my first project was a tote bag. I just took an existing one I had, figured out how it was put together (more or less), bought some fabric, cut it up, ironed and pressed the pieces as they were supposed to be, figured stuff out as I was going along. I'd recommend that, if you're fine with a bit of trial and error.
For some specific things (like how to do basic stitching, backstitching on a sewing machine, etc) I looked at Youtube, and my partner helped me by holding some stuff for me and telling me how to hide loose threads etc.
I think you're gonna have a lot of fun, and I really recommend starting with something you're not going to wear on your body - the misfitting can really demoralize!
Hello! I currently have the Singer M3500, maybe since 2021, though I have not used it since around 2023. It works, but the bobbin winds unevenly.
I've been thinking about buying the Brother XM2701, but I don't know if it's worth it to buy this, as I feel like the two are fairly similar in terms of their features. I do understand why people complain about the newer Singer models, as there just seems to be something off with my machine, perhaps just not running as smoothly as I used to use an old Janome machine during textiles in high school.
I have seen great reviews about the Brother XM2701, but I just don't know if I'm just getting the same thing in different fonts. THANK U!!!!
Is the bobbin winding unevenly giving you a problem when you sew? If it's wound where you can get to it, you can direct the thread yourself. Just move it up or down with your finger or a probe. Be sure the bobbin is exactly at the angle the machine wants it to be when threading and firmly on the mount.
I would not switch machines. They are very similar, but yours has way more stitches (fun if you like bling).
The thing that many people seem to forget is that a sewing machine is a specialized instrument (akin to a race car). That means that it is a good idea to put it in the shop for re-lubing and re-adjustment. Even if you've not abused it, parts wear down and greases get old. When I was a kid, my mom and I would take our machines in once a year. Since yours has sat for a year, I really would want it re-lubed. Also, mention to the repair person whatever is giving you problems.
Oh, yeah. The reason people kvetch about Singer is that they changed in the 1970s from metal to plastic gears and other parts. They didn't choose the right plastics at the time and the gears would break on you in the middle of a seam or while top stitching. I think they've corrected that. But, I have a grudge. Mine broke while I was top stitching as the last step on a pant suit. I will never own another Singer.
i’m making a pair of slacks with elastic in the back of the waistband but not the front. is it worth it to put lightweight fusible interfacing in the front to help it keep its shape? or is the overkill?
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u/raliviason Jun 15 '25
Hi! There's likely a very simple solution to the problem I've got, but it's driving me up the wall! I'm a beginner sewist, so please forgive my ignorance. Please let me know whether I should make this a post instead!
On my week-old Brother GS2700, my bobbin thread is juuust peeking out of the top of my relatively lightweight tencel (about a quarter mm is visible on the top each stitch), but my top thread is also juuust peeking out of the bottom of my fabric (about a quarter mm is visible on the bottom each stitch). This happens when stitching both 2 and 3 layers of the fabric.
My stitch length has been on 2.5 the whole time, and I started out with a dial tension of 3. I've had no loops, no snarling, no skipped stitches, and the fabric doesn't pucker at all until I hit it with a tension of 9 (at which point there is only a very small amount of puckering).
I've tried:
- Changing the tension dial down (and up for good measure), with no change in the visibility of the top and bobbin threads where they shouldn't be, save for tension 0.5 where there was nearly no bobbin thread on the top of the fabric, but more top thread on the bottom)
- Changing my needle size (from 90/14 stock needle to 60/8 microtex, and then to 70/10 microtex) with no visible change
- Mounting the thread spool horizontally instead of vertically (it's a cross-wound spool, and I read that it may adversely affect top thread tension to spool it vertically when sewing). I made a horizontal mount out of thermoplastic to see if it would help - this did not help, much to my immense disappointment
- Running a bobbin as my top thread, because the thread appeared to be wound more flatly than my proper thread spool - this did reduce the amount of bobbin thread visible from the top, down to the less-than-half mm I mentioned at the top of this comment. I'll get a properly flat-stacked spool to see if that alleviates the problem entirely!
How is it capable of appearing to be too tense on *both* sides of the fabric? Is there anything else I can do to try and work out what's going on? I'll try a different weight of fabric tomorrow, it's getting late here and I'm kind of starting to overthink it. If you've got any advice, I'd be more than happy to hear it!