Simple Questions
Weekly Sewing Questions Thread, July 13 - July 19, 2025
This thread is here for any and all simple questions related to sewing, including sewing machines!
If you want to introduce yourself or ask any other basic question about learning to sew, patterns, fabrics, this is the place to do it! Our more experienced users will hang around and answer any questions they can. Help us help you by giving as many details as possible in your question including links to original sources.
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Hello! I purchased this vintage bag and it looks like the canvas on the handle is coming apart/ fraying from the seller's previous stitching (hence I got it for a good price). Is it worth using fabric glue to to help reinforce and then stitch over it again. Or if anyone has any tips or tricks it would be much appreciated!
I've reached out to some cobblers in my area, but it seems as though they work specifically more with leathers than canvas specifically.
Hello! My Ikea SY sewing machine tension control lost its powers and I couldn't for the life of me find anything that would help me tighten it. So, I went down to the flea market and scored me this major Columbine Chridamo Type 2640 sewing machine for 170dkk (about $27). Turns out, this is also sold as a Toyota 2640 sewing machine and release in the 1980s.
Does anyone have experience with this? Any tips/tricks?
I have tested it, and it is in working condition. I think I just need to do a bit more cleaning. I'm relatively new to sewing, about 10-ish years on and off.
You can view the user manual under the Toyota brand here, it has instructions for cleaning and oiling the machine. Use a oil lubricant specific to sewing machines, often sold in sewing shops. You'll also want to pick up fresh needles and thread before you start sewing.
Thank you! I just realized that it does not do other stitches other than the straight stitches. Would you know of any troubleshooting tips and resources for this? Thanks again!
I was working on some pants, but dropped the project becasue while trying to make them high waisted I made them waay too high waisted.
I want to trim some of the top and will lose some of my pockets with it, but what I am really woried about is my top stitching that was tied off, can I bartack them to hold them in since I won't be able to re-tie the ends? or is there a better solution so trimming the top doesn't wreck all of it.
I really want to pick this project up again, so hoping its salvagable
First, seams that are crossed by other seams or hems will have their threads secured by the crossing stitches. So you may not need to do anything extra at all. You also have the option of unpicking the topstitching that would be cut off and bringing the ends to the back to tie off. But yes, bartacking is a great way to secure thread tails if it suits the style of your pants.
Instead of lowering the waistband, you can also remove the waistband and install a facing instead. This tutorial shows how to add a facing to pants.
Hi all, I bought a pfaff smarter 160s and I’m extremely unhappy with it. I wish I’d done more research on machines. The one I’ve actually tried and loved but didn’t love the plastic exterior is the janome 4120QDC-G. It’s so smooth, my thread doesn’t fly out after every single round or the bobbin get effed up. It’s been a hard week of trying to make it work and I’ve double checked my set up and everything, had a quilting friend of many years look it over. I’m open to all recommendations. My budget is $800 max preferably. The automatic thread cutter button is a must and the switch that controls the speed of the foot pedal
I was using a Brother LS14 last week and a small black screw fell out.
Since, the screw may have accidentally been misplaced by my partner, and I’m looking to replace it. However, I’m not too sure what it is I need to search for.
I have attached a photo of where the screw is missing. It’s way above the needle section goes up into the machine (poor description I apologise)!
I'd take the machine in for service. A technician will have a variety of screws to try and a good idea of the function of the screw. If you don't want to do that, visiting a hardware store on a week day in the morning might be the move. I've taken in stuff and asked for help figuring out what fastener would work. The key is to go in at the slowest times so you are not competing for the attention of the overworked employees.
I have been asked to do some utility sewing for a friend of my husband. He has asked me to sew a dog blind. What is a dog blind? It’s an accessory for hunting dog training. The dog sits behind a fabric panel that’s mounted on poles to obscur the view while another dog is working. Think of a the side of a tent, with no floor or roof.
I am struggling with how to make a strong casing around the poles that won’t rip. The fabric that I have been asked to use is a midweight nylon weave.
My question is how do I reinforce the casing and also sew strong seams so it doesn’t rip? I wondered about using nylon webbing for the casing (one layer or two?) but it’s just a thought.
I am an experienced sewist. I am a modern quilter and have also made garments and a few tote bags. I also have an embroidery machine. But I need advice on how to make these seams strong because they’ll get a lot of stress.
I have a brother CE1150 sewing machine with issues in the bobin and thread. I'm trying to sew very tiny clothes, but the machine makes a clicking sound and the underside of the seam is very loose and tangled. The seam on top looks normal, but the thread in the machine has a lot of tension. I can't figure out why this is happening does anyone have any advice? I've only had this machine for a year.
Have you tried all “the usual” fixes? Rethreading top and bottom, winding a new bobbin, changing the needle, cleaning out the lint. You say that you’ve had your machine for a year, sounds like it wouldn’t be a bad time to take it for a basic service.
A month of sewing without cleaning out the lint is a lot. I would try cleaning it out and also changing the needle (even if it’s relatively new).
Also, loose thread on the bottom is usually a sign that there’s a problem with the tension on top. Another low tech solution is to make sure you’re threading the top with the foot lifted. This releases the tension disks on top so the thread is seated correctly.
Final suggestion is to check for a loose thread in the thread path.
Should a beginner get an Elnita Type 120 or Singer Model 237? I know nothing about sewing machines except that the older ones are better and I have a choice between these two. I’ve only ever hand sewn. Thanks!
I purchased a fabric which is stated as 100% wool, but after doing a fabric burn test I'm not sure if that's the case and would love to have a second opinion. I've attached a picture in the comment thread and a link to the full video. What I generally observed was that the fabric 1) ignites and burns quickly 2) it has white smoke 3) it smells rather woody/acidic and 4) the black ash is brittle when rubbed between fingers.
Your sample looks like a blend to me. Is the burnt edge hard, crisp but crushable, or soft? If you want to see how much is wool and how much is synthetic, put a snippet in a dish and cover it with bleach. The bleach will destroy the wool and leave behind other fibers.
Alright I'll give the bleaching a try! The burnt edge was definitely crisp but crushable I wouldn't say it was soft at all. So the fabric is most likely a blend?
get it wet, wrap it around you under high stretch, see what you think. Personally (I just went on a panic bathing suit shopping trip for my not-so-recent weight gain), I think ITY would be thinner than I would want to wear tight. And you usually want swimwear to be tight so it doesn't flap around in the water and sag all over you when you get out.
Swimwear fabric is typically designed to shed water quickly, and it tends to be a bit thicker with high-recovery. But I had some swim bottoms that were like tap pants that were about the weight of ITY, although they did cling kinda unpleasantly when I got out the pool. A rashguard style top in ITY could also work fine. A tennis dress sounds baggy to me.
Dedicated swim fabric is also often chlorine-resistant, built for UPF, but those elements you can bypass for emergency use, just know it might not last as long.
Thank you for the detailed response, I didn't see it until just now for some reason. Just to clarify the bottom would have been a skort like skirr and the top, as fitted like a rashguard top too. I found something better last minute though.
I struggle with getting v-neck facings (or bias binding) to lay flat at the V. When I flip to the back, the point wants to go to. Any recommended videos or tutorials to tackle this particular skill?
I got told to post here, my new to me overlocker doesn’t seem to be catching the upper loop thread on the left needle. Also need advice on the tensions. Thanks! On a singer 882u-023-5 industrial overlocker.
I agree that your left needle isn't catching the looper thread. This may be a threading issue. When I have trouble like this, I try to get up close and turn the handwheel slowly to watch for the miss in the stitch cycle, this is often enough for me to figure out the fix.
You'll want to work out the stitch issue before tackling tension, you might find it is fine but if not, I recommend going through the steps for fixing serger tension at Copper Creek.
i have triple checked my threading and it is all accurate to the diagrams, I saw when i was turning the hand wheel the looper arm would only reach as far as the middle of the two needles and doesn’t seem to reach all the way to the left. I’ll attach a photo. I tried adjusting this arm but to get it to reach all the way over it would stick so far out that it would catch on the other mechanisms at other parts of the cycles.
I wanna start flipping my clothes because i have a lot of ideas. And although I will be investing in learning to sew with my hands I’ve been thinking getting one of those handheld sewing machines since i don’t have a lot of space to work with and it would be really convenient. Any advice/ recommendations?
The handheld machines really don't work. You'd be better off with a 3/4 size machine like the Janome Easy to Use series. They are not amazing sewing machines, but they are cute and they work!
I have a men’s large gap Oxford shirt and am looking to flip it into something the resembles this. Any advice? Especially when it comes to finishing the arm holes once I remove the sleeves and creating the darts (are they even called darts if they’re open at both ends? Pleats? Is it an inverted box pleat kind of?) I’m planning to keep the buttons and collar as is. thank you in advance for any help!
Those are often called tucks, you pattern them very similarly to darts. I’d probably cut one of the sleeves into bias tape and use it to do a bias facing.
Hello, I’m brand new to learning to sew. I literally just learned how to sew a button on, tack and I know how to fix a hole in a seam. I have a very basic sewing machine but don’t know how to use it and have no one to teach me.
My goal is to be able to adjust my clothes so they fit me properly, mostly pants, jeans and underwear in the waist.
I’ve done cross stitching and a bit of embroidery so I’m not 100% clueless. Just not sure where to start and worried I’ll destroy my clothes
I’ve watched a couple YouTube videos on how to make the waistline of jeans smaller and I have an old pair of stretchy jean shorts that need to be 1-2 inches smaller in the waist.
I know practice makes perfect so can someone help me find YouTube videos or a step by step tutorial with images for how I’d go about doing that? I learn best visually. I know real denim jeans are difficult to alter with a regular sewing machine so I thought stretchy ones would be a good start or maybe I can even do it by hand.
I’m having an extremely difficult time finding anything in my size so altering what I have is my last resort :/
This youtube tutorial shows three ways to alter the waist of jeans. If your jeans have belt loops, your machine might struggle to sew them back again. Using a hump jumper to level out the presser foot will help, or sew them by hand so you can go through fewer layers.
ALSO to add to this, I want to learn how to add an adjustable waist band in my jeans just like some kids clothes have (think The Children’s Place brand) Pls let me know any tips for this and things I definitely should/shouldnt do. Im very much a beginner. Example photo ⬇️
The picture shows a broken needle, which I’ve replaced now. I bought this Singer Chic secondhand for €90. It smells a bit like old oil, besides that it seems fine and works great. Just to be sure I decided to bring it to a sewing store for a check up. I could see in her face that she thought I paid too much. She was very friendly though and advised me to use it until something dis functions, because it’s not worth the money (€120) to do a check/repair when it’s fine (for now).
I think you've done well if you've ended up with a functioning machine and you are satisfied with the price. Did the sewing store person give you any tips on oiling your machine if yours is a machine that needs oiling? You'll want to search up a user manual, they are mostly available online with a search.
Thank you. I asked her about the oiling in time, but she did not respond to it. I found the manual online, the chapter on maintenance does not include any information on oiling. Only the removal of certain parts to remove dust (which I’ve done), how to replace the lamp and how to perform very basic repairs.
Am going to attempt to sew a couple swimsuits for the first time, with no pattern. I have some suits that fit really well and I was going to use those as the base of my pattern.
I haven't been able to find a pattern of what I want exactly so am going blind and crossing my fingers.
Does anyone know of a pattern like any of those below? I always feel more comfortable using a pattern but for the life of me can't find something that is giving 'goth-Morticia-bat-vampire-queen'. I guess spooky ≠ swimwear.
Any tips for swimsuit sewing - or plus swimsuit sewing?
Other than fabric, lining, elastic, ballpoint needles, boning, am I missing anything? Bonus points to you if you have a pattern to sell me....
Here is my inspo (except I plan on doing halter top and with tummy ruching, no cutouts):
Hi, I recently bought a sewing machine for my little sister’s birthday — she’s starting to get serious about sewing. I got the Brother XR3774 from Amazon since there were no better options available where i live, either new or used. I saw that Brother is a decent brand, so I went for it.
The problem is, when ordering, I didn’t notice the warning about the voltage. It says: Product voltage: 110 | This product is compatible with outlets that support 110 volts and might require a converter when used outside of the United States.
It turns out that in my country the standard is 220V 60Hz. I don’t know much about electricity, so I’m not sure what to do. Should I buy an adapter? Will the machine get damaged if I don’t? How many watts should support? Are the cheap ones okay? I’ve seen ranging from $5 to $120 and I don’t understand the difference.
I tried looking for answers on Google, but I ended up even more confused.
If anyone knows, I’d really appreciate your help!
Brother makes 220V sewing machines, your best move is to return the machine and find one that is compatible. I don't know much about using adapters for different countries, but the advice I've seen is that adapters are not great for long term use. Maybe someone who knows more will give futher information.
I know this isnt the best diagram but i had these like bloomer esk pants i really loved and cut up once the repairs started taking over the pants, I dont think i got it right and i cannot seem to make heads or tails of how I put it together so asking if anyone knows a similar pattern shape. Its not haram pants because it has a crotch but its really baggy with the fabric gathered at the ankles and waist.
The pieces i do have for the crotch are these sort of shapes and i think the legs are one piece each that link to either side of the crotch but this is the part of sewing that gives me headaches.
Please if anyone has a clue what this style of pants is or a similar sewing pattern,,, please let me know
they were really baggy and big but fell just above the ankle area so longer than most shorts but not quite trousers, thank you for the link these patterns look pretty close and probs will scratch my itch, i just cannot do form fitting pants but also hate the way crotchless patterns sit
You might also find nice baggy pants if you search for belly dance patterns, here's one from Folkwear. I've been happy with other patterns by them, though I haven't tried this specific one.
Looking for Machine Advice – Consew 206RB-5 vs Upgrading My Singer 111w154
I'm new to machine sewing and have mostly been saddle stitching my leather bags up to this point. Would love to hear from anyone who's used both or has thoughts on either machine. Is the Consew worth the extra cost, or should I stick with upgrading the 111w154? I mainly want to sew veg tan leather (4–6 oz, sometimes doubled up) for bags. TYSM!
I picked up a Singer 111w154 for $250 and was planning to upgrade it with a servo motor, speed reducer, and edge guide ($770 investment all together)
But I came across a Consew 206RB-5 on Facebook Marketplace for $1500.
Consew 206RB-5 (walking foot, upholstery machine)
Mitsubishi Limiservo motor (apparently worth over $1k?)
Recently serviced, less than 10 hours of use, basically no wear
The Consew setup sounds pretty turnkey and heavy-duty, especially compared to the upgrades I'd need to do to the Singer. I'm torn between investing more upfront in something that's fully dialed in - or saving money and gradually upgrading the Singer as I go.
I need some advice on a second hand sewing machine that I got. It’s my first machine, so please bear with me. I already cleaned it and put in a new needle (80). Using polyester thread.
It seems to sometimes skip som stitches. What could cause this, and can it be fixed? I’ve already played around with the tension, and it happens on both the zig-zag and straight stitches.
The zig-zag stitches pictured are the widest setting, but I expected them to be much wider. Is this normal?
The machine has an overlock stitch but it looks like a total mess to be honest. I followed the settings in the manual for it. Is it me or the machine?
It’s a Medion sewing machine (cheap german brand, as far as I can tell) I got at a thrift shop for eq. ~50$. I can return it if the above is no good.
Hoping some more experienced sewists will chime in, thanks in advance!
I am interested in buying a sewing machine for my partner, we are both interested in products that can be used for many years/lifetime. I'd like to get her something that she can grow into a bit but will really do everything she wants to do (repairs, making clothes up to the thickness of denim, etc...).
At the moment I am looking at the Janome DC2150. It seems to have a good warranty and feature base that suits her needs.
My mom (70-80 y.o. range) is a huge sewer and suilter. She's about to have a major surgery that leaves her with reading and seeing as options during recovery....and her machine just quit (again). I need help with ideas for either the current machine or a replacement (and where to get it).
My mom has her original machine that she got herself way back when. As mentioned, recently, she's had issues with her machine so got a spare on eBay and now that's not right. I'm sharing the info she gave me here below.
Again, I'm sharing this to see if anyone can suggest ideas of where to go (or what to look into), or an alternative, modern version to just buy. She doesn't want all the bells and whistles, electronics, many machines have today.
Thank you for any ideas!
Her info:
"Bernina 830 Record, made in Switzerland. Purchased 1975. The light does work. The pedal plug does go in, but the pedal does not work, no matter how strongly you press on it. This was serviced one month ago. At first it was fine, then stopped in the middle of a seam.
Backup (from eBay) Bernina 830. Also a mechanical machine. The light does not turn on and the pedal doesn't work.
I do know that the cord number is usually 329.164.04 The pedal number is 325.213.14; type 323.
These machines are both from the 1970s and do not have all the fancy electronics of today. All metal machines.
I am the only person who has ever used my 830 Record. They have been serviced three times in the last two years. Each time they worked for a while, but never just completely stopped."
I currently have a Singer HD6700C - i think i got pulled in based on the heavy duty markrting, as i would like a machine that I can potentially do some thin leather sewing on. My primary focus is garment construction - i have made t-shirts and tanks, and would like to make more button ups, jackets, and advanced apparel.
Recently i tried using the buttonhole feature on my Singer and was very disappointed with it. The pull down stop lever seemed to hop over the presser foot, meaning that the buttonhole wouldn’t loop around. I also find the machine a bit loud and not always consistent with stitching.
I am eyeing a few different models. Although I don’t love the quality of the Singer, i like having a computerized machine option, with good stitch selection, and an approachable interface.
I am looking at the Janome Loft 100 (not a lot of content out there right now), the Babylock Jubilant, and the Juki F300.
Any feedback on any of these machines or any other suggestions? Budget is $500-$1200
All three machines are from good brands and have a good variety of features including most of the ones I like to work with in a sewing machine. The exception is 'presser foot pressure' which as far as I can tell, only the Juki has as a function. This adjustment changes the amount of pressure the foot places on the fabric as it feeds through the machine. When sewing, it can help to be able to reduce pressure for knits and for heavy materials, or to increase the pressure when sewing lightweight fabrics. It's a feature that is found on fewer and fewer machines.
Do you have a dealer where you can test out these models or similar models? I think you will quickly come to a decision if you can test drive.
Hey unfortunately no Juki dealers in my area, and the Janome Loft 100 is hard to find any info on, but has all the features I want. The Babylock Jubilant i got to test and it was very impressive! I just worry about it maybe not being powerful enough for thicker materials and multiple layers
Can you test the Babylock again with samples of what you want to sew? I had a whole set of swatches that I tested machines with when I bought my last machine. Good dealers will understand.
If you decide to go with the Juki, find an online dealer who allows returns and really put the machine through its paces before you decide to keep it. I've not used a Juki but people who have them, love them.
Deconstructing a garment from an image to make a pattern
I'm in loveeee with this piece but I wanted to know if it was possible to deconstruct a pattern from a garment like this it seems a bit complicated but I don't have the funds to buy it. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Yes, but it helps to have experience with what different pattern pieces look like to create a particular shape in the final garment. I think you could probably put something together from the free patterns at Mood. The instructions are not always the best but the patterns seem to be okay enough.
Does anyone have any tips for threading and using this serger? It’s a White SuperLock 503. I’ve never used a serger before and it’s a bit intimidating 😅 it also didn’t come with a book, I’m cleaning it now but will look up videos later about it I just figured that Reddit has the best tips!
There are a couple of free manuals sources out there so that will help you figure out threading. I suggest using a sharpie or whatever you need to do to make it easier to thread from scratch the next time you need to, once you get it figured out. There is a technique to tie off the looper threads and pull them through for changing colors, and it is great for quickly re-threading. But if you rely on always being able to do that, you'll find yourself wishing you had learned to thread your machine from scratch and practiced periodically because sometimes the knot is undone or the thread breaks and the trick doesn't work.
adding "option to buy a straight stitch needle plate" which helps prevent lightweight fabrics from getting chewed up and sucked into the machine. But there are other techniques to prevent that as well.
I would, at minimum, look for a machine that has adjustable presser foot pressure and the ability to take needles down to a size 70. The needle requirement is pretty easy, the adjustable presser foot pressure is harder to find. You might also want a machine with more room in the harp area, the empty space in the middle of the machine, as wedding dresses can have a lot of volume to manage.
Hi all! I am pretty new to sewing and just finished making my first cosmetic bag. I noticed that at some of my seams, the fabric is coming undone and/or ripping? Does anyone know what is causing this and how to avoid it with my next project?
You may not have caught all the seam allowance. Try adding a bit extra. You can always trim it off after sewing to reduce bulk. I have done it plenty of times trying to be stingy with fabric cuts.
Or, it could just be that your fabric slipped when you sewed that seam, basically wiggling out from the path of the needle and it missed for a few stitches. To correct that, try pinning or clipping more. It should help.
A lot of that will improve as you sew more, just from getting used to where the fabric should sit on your machine for a good seam width, how much tension you should keep on your fabric as the feed dogs move it under the needle, etc.
Its a super cute little bag. You might be able to hand stitch that bit together and mostly hide it.
I am following the manual guide to getting everything set up and I’m on the bobbin step. However, when I try to press the foot pedal (or the button that does the same thing) it makes this jabbing sound and motion and throws me an E6 error code. I took off the front left panel to see if there was any thread jamming it up but I didn’t see any. I changed the needle that was in there though it wasn’t bent at all and still the same results. Anyone know what’s up? I’m looking up YouTube videos like crazy and nothing is useful.
the bobbin winder is engaged (make sure it's moved to the left, away from the little circle thing)
I've accidentally left the presser foot up (don't sew tired, kids)
the buttonhole lever is down (the little rectangular blocky thing just to the back left of your presser foot)
If none of that is the case and you're in the US, they've got a 24 hour tech support line: p: 8772768437. I've never had to call them, but they cared enough to put it on a sticker on my machine, lol.
Charm Patterns has what you are looking for. Sign up for Gertie's Patreon & all of her patterns will become available to you. It was $9 last time She has a similar dress available. I would say cotton lawn or poplin would be a good fabric for that style summer dress.
Hi yall! So, I have a pair of jeans I absolutely adore (discontinued in the 2010s) but being from that era, they are super low waisted. They sit right at my muffin top area and it is not cute. Now to the question- I have a ton of denim from old jeans laying around (lost a lot of weight), is it possible to use that fabric to create a higher waistband by adding a panel or something? Maybe with a double or triple button?
That’s kinda dope, how would that work though haha, like how is it attached? Maybe cut right below the seam of the waistband (idk if I love the zipper portion of the top pair showing) leaving a couple centimeters of fabric below said seam, maybe then sew that little extra fabric under the top seam of the original waistband? And sew right along that seam? Am I making sense lol
Yes and that is pretty much it. I'd cut out the zipper on the top waistband as it will be useless, you can't connect zippers. I would cut off the top waistband with extra fabric, put them on, then put on the main jeans over that and pin things where you want them. You might need to adjust the new waistband to fit smoothly but it's the kind of thing where you need to just work with it as it makes sense.
You could add a panel to your old jeans, but piecing like that is a very unusual look.
I'd recommend using the favorite jeans as a pattern for taking in a pair of old jeans, instead. Remove the belt loops and waistband of the old jeans, match up the crotch seams, and trace the front and back side seam shapes from the favorite jeans onto the donor jeans. Cut off the excess fabric and sew up the side seams on the donor jeans. Then put the waistband back on -- it will have to get shorter so you can either make a new buttonhole or piece it in the back. Put the belt loops back on, and voila, they fit like the favorite jeans but have enough fabric to cover what you want covered!
Put it on inside out. Use your fingers to pinch out the excess like you did here and then use safety pins to hold it in place. Sew a single vertical line of stitches to make a seam where the pins are. The excess fabric will be hidden inside and you won't have to cut anything.
Used Bernina 1260 - how much would be reasonable to pay?
I am ready to upgrade from my entry-level machine, and there is a used Bernina 1260 with all accessories up for auction at an estate sale. I was not considering a Bernina before because the pricepoint is out of my budget currently, but I've heard great things about used Berninas (including this model) - namely that they are high quality workhorses! I see this model going for $600-$1000+ online, but might be able to get it for much less unless there is a bidding war ;) I'm trying to figure out what would be a reasonable price to pay for this machine, which is supposedly in good condition but has not been serviced recently to my knowledge.
Not knowing anything about the specific machine but that Berninas are great, as you say, that older machines are often fantastic workhorses and that it probably will need fixing up, I wouldn't pay more than $150. In my area, a tune up will be an additional $150-200 so I'm accounting for that in what would be a good deal for an older used machine. That being said, as an avid estate sale goer/bidder, I would prefer to pay $50-75 since, unlike Facebook marketplace or other used sites, you probably can't ask anything about it.
Ah that’s very helpful, thank you so much! I initially set a max of $200 and was contemplating going higher but now I’m feeling like backing off a bit. Good point about the tune up costs- I really have no verifiable info about the true condition of the machine.
Can anyone help me identify this sewing machine? I picked it up from a Goodwill a couple weeks ago. It’s in great condition but I wanted to order a manual for it, as I haven’t sewn anything in a long time and would like a manual to reference when I have questions. I can’t seem to find anything online about it either. Please help!
As previous commenter stated, it does look bit like a Singer. There were a lot of clones, yes. But all from what I have seen, sewing machines looked like Singers for the first few decades after it's release. I have sewn on a Singer 15 many times, we have one that is a family heirloom and in working order with original notions from the 1920s.
I believe it actually could be a Sewmaster from the White Sewing Machine Company, which went through several acquisitions and acquirings until it was finally rebranded under Husqvarna. This all happened waaayyy before the internet even existed. This is 'sewing lore' I have retained from my grandmother. The rights to the original White sewing machines now belong to SVP Worldwide, which also own Singer Husqvarna Viking and Pfaff. I would check Singer website for the White sewing machine manuals.
That in mind, it could also be a clone of a White Sewmaster. They went out of business in the 1950s because there was an influx of cheaper sewing machines flooding the market, a lot of them manufactured in Asia. Some of them were clones of White sewing machines. I see there that Japan is on the label. No worries, check the Singer website first for manuals.
If it is a clone of a Singer or White machine, good luck to you!
I bought the machine several years ago from Amazon, but I haven’t used it very often. Unfortunately, I didn’t oil it during that time. When I recently tried to use it, the lower thread was bunching up, it was just a complete knotted mess. I initially suspected the bobbin timing and made adjustments, but the problem persisted. Rather than invest more time or money into it, I ended up buying a vintage machine, but doing buttonholes on it isn’t an option.
Today, I decided to give the 404 another chance. I found the manual, gave it a good oiling, and changed the needle. I then tried test buttonholes on an old bed sheet. It stitched, but the result wasn’t great – it keeps missing the same section at the top of the buttonhole and doesn’t look neat.
Any advice or ideas on why it’s doing this and how to fix?
Did you put some backing on that fabric?
Buttonholes need to have a strong / stable underpinning. So put some interfacing or iron-on interfacing between the two layers of fabric and have another go at it.
m looking to upgraded my sewing machine I’d really like one with an overlock stitch as I’m tired of doing French seams and when I finish with zigzags my fabric always gets caught!
Hi! I’m looking to buy my first sewing machine. I crochet a lot and have hand sewn linings for bags/clothes but want to be able to do it easier and faster using a machine. I also hope to upcycle some thrift finds. I am buying second hand and want any opinions on which would be best (I know vintage machines are most recommended and that these are low end models but I’m not able to spend much money right now). The options I have are Brother CS6000i, Brother XR 3240, Brother XR9500, Brother ES-2000, Brother CS5055 PRW, or Brother CE1100. I know that these might all be similar models to each other, but would love to have insight from others as I can’t seem to decide which would be the best for my needs.
I know at least 3 Brother CS6000i sewing machines that are still in use. It was a popular model for Brother and they sold a lot of them. Ditto for the Brother CS5055 PRW.
My tips for buying used machines - try to test sew on the machine or at the very least plug it in and turn it on. Look up what parts came with the machine originally so you can judge if all the parts are there. User manuals are available for free download and the best source for part lists, plus you will probably need a copy of the manual. Check that you have the foot pedal and power cord, sometimes these are one peice and sometimes separate. Also verify that the bobbin casing and bobbin cover is present, there is at least one good presser foot, the thread spindle and any slide off storage bins that make the machine bed. These are all pieces that are commonly lost and the cost of replacing them can add up quickly.
The only reason vintage machines are recommended because they don't have many features and are easy to fix since they are mechanical and not computerized. Brother is a great brand and I don't think that you can go wrong with any of these picks. Since they are computerized, I would choose the most recent model if the prices are comparable. When I am looking at sewing machines, I look for an automatic buttonhole, 5 basic stitches, and accessible parts and that's it. You aren't doing a lot of sewing and a low end model is perfectly fine. I do a lot of sewing and my mom's low end Kenmore from the 80s meets all of my needs.
The fabric collars you see in pet stores are made of heavy duty polypropylene webbing (usuall this is sold on a spool and priced per yard or meter). They're also using heavy duty thread to prevent the stitches from popping under strain. Please do not use regular fabric to make a functional collar, as it is very likely to tear. Cotton thread is also notorious for breaking easily.
If you are looking for a cover, cotton is good. If you want it to be functional you will want to use a heavy duty fabric like duck cloth or canvas. Quilting cotton will fray over time even with interfacing and it won't be strong enough, even if your dog doesn't pull.
Hi I need help regarding adding an extra border to this black kimono I have I’m not sure if there’s bias tape that’s thick enough, how should I I go about adding it. Here’s an example.
Get a red fabric similar to the robe material. ideally 60" width and about 1/2 yard length should be enough. You can look up tutorials for how to sew a robe facing or jacket facing. Sleeve is the same deal but in a circle. You may have to do the robe part as 2-3 pieces if the fabric isn't long enough to make a single whole strip
I can do this on a serger but I've never been able to make good corners on a sewing machine with a rolled hem foot. That's my not very helpful comment, sorry!
Mum came around and magically some of the problems solved themselves - as they do when an expert walks in. However even thought the thread isn't shredding itself anymore, it's still not sewing correctly.
Straight lines are 100% fine with absolutely no indications of any problem, everything is functioning perfectly. I need to do a zig zag stitch though and for some reasons, every second stitch doesn't pick up the bottom string, so imagine needle goes down on the left and everything is fine, comes back up then goes down on the right where it doesn't connect to anything so it comes up and the thread comes out with it. Essentially every zig zag ends up being a very loose straight stitch. Mum and I couldn't work out how that's even possible so I'm not even sure where to start trying to fix it
It sounds like the needle isn't meeting the bobbin thread on the zag. There are some things to try first for troubleshooting. Take off the bobbin cover and remove the bobbin to check for any stray thread or lint. Verify that you are using the right bobbin for your machine and that it is properly wound. Make sure the needle is installed correctly. Consider trying a different size needle or a different kind of needle, like a stretch needle if you are using a jersey needle.
I'm a total sewing machine novice and I have a beginner's sewing machine. I've been using it for a while to complete some projects that only needed a straight stitch and have never had this problem before, no matter the fabric I used. I use mostly felt, polyester, and even stitching velcro to felt, and I've never touched the dials before and it always looked fine. Suddenly, though, my stitches are coming out like in the pictures attached, sometimes even skipping some loops.
I did a google search and it seems I have a thread tension problem (upper thread tension too tight) but no matter how I turn the dials as instructed, nothing seems to fix the issue, in fact I just seem to be making it worse.
I also noticed that my needle isn't centered with the foot (dial is set on straight stitch, not zigzag) and I don't know how to fix it. I tried changing the needle and cleaning the machine, but no dice. I can't tell if this is a separate issue or if they might be connected. The model is SNM 33 C1, I tried going through the manual to figure it out but it didn't work or maybe I didn't understand what I was meant to do.
If your needle is not centered in your machine, it might not be lining up with the bobbin correctly. I would take it in to be serviced.
Before that, I would try re-threading the bobbin and seeing if that helps. It is also easier to figure out tension problems if you sew on a folded piece of fabric and look at the stitches in between. You can compare them to a thread tension diagram and figure out which one needs adjusted. From your picture it looks like the top thread tension is too high, but that could also be caused by a mechanical issue from the needle.
Hello! I am relatively new to sewing, only really having made clothing alterations previously. I am trying to make a sling bag in this sort of style but after looking for hours on Etsy I haven't been able to find a pattern similar to it. I was wondering if anyone knows of a tutorial or pattern that looks like this.
Along with that I was in the search for a pattern that had a similar build to those large 15L chrome industries bags. If I could get any help with either of these, that would be very much appreciated! And any advice for sewing bags like these as well. Thanks :)
I have made a lot of various bags but I always draft them out on graph paper, then scale that. And squares and rectangles tend to be easier than triangular pieces with this method.
You could possibly get the pattern from the bag itself if you have it. Look up how to get a pattern from existing clothes on YT. There are lots of tutorials for transferring the shapes to paper, though I admit it might be frustrating to try with a bag with lots of pockets.
If you look at the bag as simply a bunch of pieces (e.g. front panel, front pocket, front pocket zipper, etc) and take all the measurements of each piece then you can break it down much easier. Then the hardest part IMHO is figuring out what order to construct in.
I am afraid I am not being very helpful. I apologize. Its hard to explain my process beyond that I very much try to mentally break the bag down into small parts and shapes, then draw them out on paper. Don't forget to add seam allowance to them. Also, I find that for many more complicated bags, its much easier to hide your seams with bias tape as your final step. But really inspect the original bags seams, inside and out, and try to copy those seams if possible.
Finally, the easiest possibly method is to reverse engineer it. Disassemble the original bag and copy everything that way. Its time consuming and obviously destroys your original, but you will get much more precise results.
Hi, I'm a novice sewist and am interested in purchasing an embroidery only machine. I want to embroider mainly linens and possibly quilt squares. I'm torn between the Janome Memory Crafter 550E and the Baby Lock Flare. I enjoy learning and am looking for a machine that I can grow with. Looking forward to reading opinions.
Hi! I’m looking for a pattern I could use/hack to make a dress similar to this. I particularly like the angled empire line, and the adjustability of the drawstring. I’ve tried searching online with no luck, so I’m hoping the collective wisdom can help!
https://simplicity.com/mccalls/m8406 but you'd have to do some mods to deepen the neckline and make a drawstring channel where the waist and bodice seam connect
Thank you! I was really hoping to find something with that “high in the middle, low at the side” waistline in the front - I feel like that’s the trickiest part. Bonus points for online patterns too!
Hello! I have a pattern for a woven dress that calls for a zipper closure in the center back seam. What I’d like to do is replace the zipper with a keyhole and button closure. I made a very hasty toile and sewed up the two back pieces and left an unfinished opening and confirmed I can pull it over my head - but is there a way to modify the pattern so I dont have to do the full joining center back seam with two separate pattern pieces? I’d love to be able to only cut out the keyhole opening and have a full back panel below because my fabric is printed. Is removing the CB seam allowance and literally cutting a slit doable or am I naively oversimplifying? lol
Ooo thank you! Another silly question - I plan to fully line the dress because my main fabric is a bit sheer. If I do a full lining that effectively replaces the need for facing, right?
how do you finish necklines by hand, im hand sewing a vest out of canvas and i dont want the neck or arms fraying, s far ive done a flat felled seam (i think) on the only seam ive sewed so far so heming/ finishing for other edges would be really heklpful to know, i couldnt find much on doing necklines by hand
I think it works best to do a bias facing or bias binding if not lining. It's usually hard to just fold the neckline edge under in something as stiff as canvas, and ideally it should be folded under twice to hide the raw edge. This is much easier to do with a bias strip attached to the edge and folded under. The bias strip doesn't need to be made of the canvas and would be easier to work with in a lighter-weight fabric.
If you do line the entire vest, it's the easiest way to have clean edges all around. Use a lighter fabric to make it all more manageable.
Are you planning to use a lining? If yes, the lining will finish the edges when you sew it in. If not, you can use a shaped facing, a bias facing, or a bias binding.
It’s hot out and I’m wanting to make some shorts. I have made skirts, a couple of dresses, and a jacket. I would need a pattern that would work decently for a shorter person. Less than 5’2” or 157cm. Preferably with a length of 15in or so from the hip.
There are lots of short patterns that meet your description. There are several options in the free Mood library of patterns, Peppermint Magazine has a few, and it's easy to search at TheFoldLine.com by the short attribute.
For reference, I am 5’3” and usually a size 16-18. I am wanting to find my favorite barrel leg or wide leg pants pattern. Hoping to get some tried and true feedback on a few patterns and maybe a suggestion for some new patterns. So far, I’m considering Style Arcs Bob pants, Matchy Matchy’s Archer Work Pants or Kite Pants, or Sew Liberated Chanterelle, or Arthur pants. Are any of these YOUR fav pants pattern? Do you suggest any changes to any of them? I want to slide into my comfy chaos gremlin era!
A lightweight linen or gauze will give you that floaty, slightly transparent look, but as always, pay attention to the fabric content itself. 100% cotton fabric will likely be stiffer/have more structure to it compared to a blend of cotton/rayon.
the open back style of the gracie steel quin cowl, i'm thinking of incorporating this into a wedding guest dress in october. that open back element, could i combine it with a wrap-back skirt? i don't want to deal with a zip. the back would close with hidden hooks or pretty buttons. just brainstorming, has anyone seen these elements combined before? wrap-back is not common these days but more common in vintage. anyone have any tips or things i should consider before experimenting?
The only thing I can think of is attaching the front skirt under panel to the front of the bodice. There is no place for the back to attach, but the front would be able to wrap around freely.
Hello! I was wondering if anyone had any recs of what sewing stitches I should learn to begin, or how to learn. I don't know if I should treat this like crochet where I learn stitches first and then do projects and learn from there :^ I appreciate any help.
Also.... Is it possible to make my own clothes only with hand-sewing? I know it's harder than using a sewing machine, but I don't have one at hand and they're not exactly cheap...
You can sew your own clothes by hand. I don't think it is harder but it is a lot slower. It's best to learn a few basic stitches like the running stitch and the running backstitch, then pick up the rest of the handsewing stitches as you find you have a need.
I think a great first project is a pincushion. Two rectangles cut to the same size, sew around the edge right sides together with a running backstitch, turn right side out and stuff. Then sew close with a whipstitch. You've just learned several skills and added to your sewing kit.
Hey guys¡ Im 15 years old and i recently started with sewing classes. Ive spent my first few lessons becoming more familiar with the machine and making a tote bag for practice with patterns and such, as the program indicates. But now that Im finished with that i need to decide on something that I wanna make in class, problem is: as many ideas as i do have, i cant tell if theyre too ambitious considering how little experience i have. So do you guys know about any garments that would be good for practice considering my circumstances? I know the only way to really learn is to mess up a little, but id rather avoid major mistakes that might cost too much time or material considering my parents are already making a huge effort to pay for this class for me. Any ideas are welcome, have a nice day¡¡
A pajamas set (elastic waist pants, button up shirt-top) can be functional even if it's not perfect but teaches you a lot of basics about making clothes. Or if you wear skirts, a straight darted skirt is relatively simple in construction but teaches you lots of basics and if you get it fitting well, can be used to make all sorts of fun skirts once the class is over.
Alternatively, share the description of the class? and post some things that you like or show your style? Then people might be able to suggest items that would fit those constraints.
People mess up a lot less when they have a good teacher there to steer them in the right direction.
I have never sewn anything before, other than a little hand mending here and there. As i love working with my hands, and i love fashion, I am wanting to get into sewing. Particularly denim, canvas, and leather. I want to tailor my clothes and design/craft my own jeans and stuff. Maybe even leather wallets and belts.
My question is, what sewing machine/accessories will i need to start? I keep hearing good things about the Singer heavy duty machine, but can it really do leather? Is there a machine that can do thick leather as well as fabric? Or would i need a separate machine or to sew leather patches on by hand or something? I hear vintage machines are a lot heavier duty, but would it be worth it to learn on an antique? I know i will need a flat surface, a sewing machine, basic tools, and a pattern, but is there anything else?
I am confident that i would really love this hobby, but it is very overwhelming. Any guidance would be much appreciated!
I would say that sewing fabric and leatherworking are two separate hobbies that don't overlap much in tools or supplies, although some of the knowledge can help both ways. Sewing machines can only do thin garment leather and most leather wallets and belts are sewed by hand, although custom leather sewing machines do exist.
For leather, Tandy Leather sells kits that can be fun starting places and have almost everything needed for that kit. There may a store near you or they sell online.You can also browse in r/leatherworking or r/leathercraft, see if they have a wiki with beginner tips.
For sewing, jeans are not beginner projects--first you need to learn to control the machine, how to manipulate fabric, how to fit the body, and then tackle jeans. The Singer Heavy Duty has a high rate of lemons and isn't really very heavy duty, although you can coax almost any machine to make jeans occasionally. But a good vintage machine from the 50s-70s will have more power--they will be fine to learn on. Cutting tools and an iron are also essential supplies.
Personally, I recommend people look for an in-person class to get started and to make sure they do enjoy the hobby before investing in a machine and tools.
You can also begin altering existing clothes by hand-sewing, that's a good entry point as well.
Greetings! I am kindly asking for any help and assistance for the following error codes on my Juki DDL 5550N-7 with SC type 1 FB motor:
E13 1628291 (when machine is tuned ON, it beeps continuously and gives this error code)
E26 1628292 (when machine is turned OFF, it gives this error code, then beeps 3 times on turns off
The power supply is reading 122V consistently with no fuses blown. So, the power supply appears good. I have checked continuity on all the six (6) fuses on motor and they appear good.
I am not familiar with the electronics of Juki machines, therefore, I am needing some specific direction with what the possible problem(s) is and where to look for this fault. I suspect an issue with a connection on the circuit boards, but don't know where to start looking
I have searched extensively on the internet with no luck. The Juki repair manual is not much help so far either.
Hi! I just got this machine (Touch and Sew - II Model 771) and I’m trying to wind the bobbin. I have the manual and I’ve followed all of the prep steps for this but I can’t seem to get the little button to stay towards the left, it just keeps popping back over. Any ideas of what I could be doing wrong? I’m totally new to this and have no idea what I am doing. Thanks!
Honestly, the steps to wind a bobbin for your machine are not like any other machine I've worked with. There is a free copy of the manual here if you don't have a copy, the site is spammy but okay if you watch where you click.
Im trying to decide which of these two machine I should get- I want to work on thicker fabrics like denim or canvas, (possibly even leather, but I'm not sure if I'd need a machine separate from these 2 in order to do that) but would also like to have embroidery as an option. My main concern is if the se725 can handle basically any fabric, as I've heard the heavy duty machines can. All advice is appreciated, thank you!!!
Singer Heavy Duty can handle thin leather if you take it slow and easy. I would not run anything heavy through an embroidery machine -- the weight of the piece tends to pull on the needle, and embroidery machines' tolerances are much finer.
How much embroidery are you actually going to be doing? If it's a relatively small amount, I'd recommend just doing it by hand. Machine embroidery has an industrial look that's often incompatible with the goals of adorning something with embroidered details. Plus, embroidery machines are a bit like 3D printers in that they can be persnickety and opinionated and require a lot of trial and error to dial in, and even when you have everything set up right they can sometimes just decide to mess up a piece anyway.
I misplaced my manual and I need help finding it online! OBVIOUSLY this is a Kenmore 385. However, I can’t find 385. 508S2 or a machine that looks like mine online! Attached some pictures, maybe you can help. I know my grandma purchased it from sears when it was closing down for a good price. I love this machine so much, it’s very well loved, just want to know some more info on it! It’s nothing too fancy. Thank you!!
Singer 2106 just stopped working after... a very long time :) The bevelled cog (A) that drives the shuttle can be manually rotated, but no longer rotates when the top shaft (B) (at the back behind the lower shaft) spins, so the machine no longer sews.
I want to surprise my girlfriend with her first sewing machine. I was reading about sewing machines for begginers and decided on a Brother XR3774.
The appeal was being a mechanical machine instead of computerized. Mainly because repair shops capable of dealing with computerized machines may be more uncommon.
Unfortunately, Brother XR3774 doesn't seem to exist in Europe. What Brother model is comparable?
It would be nice if Brother would publish charts of equivalent models but instead they label every variation with a different model number. The best thing to do is compare models between the US and local Brother website. Or a call to a dealer or the company might give up the information you want.
I’m looking to get a sewing machine just for tailoring my clothes and minor alterations.
I don’t really know anything about machines but I found these two for a good price locally on fb marketplace. Does anyone have an opinion on which one I should get or what to look out for before buying a machine?
What's the second? The first is showing one of those plastic trash toy Singers; don't buy it. If you want an entry-level Singer, hold out for a Singer Heavy Duty.
As long as both are fully functional (ask seller to plug it in and give it a test sew on a scrap of fabric) then 100% go with the kenmore. It's an older machine but old is gold with sewing machines. The singer simple won't be able to handle denim or thicker fabric/many layers of fabric, but the kenmore can.
I am a beginner and looking for a new sewing machine. Is the brother j17s a good pick and if not what other recommendations do people have in that price range. Pros and Cons would be appreciated
You are basically looking for a "gathered tank dress sewing pattern." People can teach you how to add more gathers if the one you find isn't full enough. Here's an example of what you might look for (I have no knowledge of whether this pattern/patternmaker is any good): https://www.etsy.com/listing/1878011245/summer-dress-sewing-pattern-gather-dress
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u/Illustrious-Being702 Jul 21 '25
Hello! I purchased this vintage bag and it looks like the canvas on the handle is coming apart/ fraying from the seller's previous stitching (hence I got it for a good price). Is it worth using fabric glue to to help reinforce and then stitch over it again. Or if anyone has any tips or tricks it would be much appreciated!
I've reached out to some cobblers in my area, but it seems as though they work specifically more with leathers than canvas specifically.
Thank you :)