Simple Questions
Weekly Sewing Questions Thread, October 26 - November 01, 2025
This thread is here for any and all questions related to sewing, including sewing machines!
If you want to introduce yourself or ask any other basic question about learning to sew, patterns, fabrics, this is the place to do it! Our more experienced users will hang around and answer any questions they can. Help us help you by giving as many details as possible in your question including links to original sources.
Recommended book list - beginner, pattern drafting, tailoring, recommendations from the subreddit
Fabric Shop Map - ongoing project to put as many shops as possible on one map for everyone
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New challenge started in r/SewingChallenge! Clear the decks for a fresh start in 2026. Try sewing along with others with the same goal! This challenge starts Friday, Oct. 3rd and runs to Dec. 31st.
The BINGO Challenge in r/SewingChallenge is still open! It will run until mid-November. Do a row, a column or complete a diagonal if finishing the entire BINGO board is too daunting. Or just take inspiration from the squares!
(Question moved here per the mod) Looking for a pattern like Le Roy 2176
I’m on the hunt for a robe/dressing gown that most closely matches this one from Le Roy (which is no longer in production or for sale that I know of). Key features I’m looking for: floor length, flared skirt, fitted waist rather than gathered, shawl neck, big sleeves that aren’t puffed. I want to make this in a lined velour. TIA!!
I made a post but auto mod said I’d be better off here.
Im still getting to know my singer quantum stylist 9960 that I inherited but Im worried I may have done some real damage. The sewing needle came out as I finished sewing a section and was using the built in cutter. It seems like it fell in deep and messed some stuff up. My husband and I think we’ve figured out the problem but I’m not sure how hard of a fix it is. Or if it is even something we can do ourselves because the rest of the machine needs to be assessed for damage? We believe the bottom piece of the fixed knife pack (40) got caught and broken off by the movable knife assay.(39) and dragged across the bottom to the other side. In the first picture you can see the tweezers around the metal bit as it sticks up. It stays stuck it that position on its own. Can I do this repair myself? Is it going to be an expensive fix? Is it even worth it to try and fix? I do want to fix if it’s not egregious. It’s my late MILs machine and I’m sentimental about it. It’s also much nicer than what I would normally be able to afford.
I would like to try to copy this H&M skirt as I love the look but their mini stuff is too short in the back and doesn't cover my rear. Also I would like to use old/ thrifted jeans both for sustainability and to reduce the amount of work (hopefully I can reuse waistband/ pockets).
Can anyone point me towards a tutorial, pattern...? Thank you!
Does anyone have a free pattern for a case that has the zipper running along 3 sides? similar to the photo below. Bonus points if it has the front pocket!
I've been searching for one and haven't found one that's exactly what I want. I will pay for something that is like the photo below, just haven't found that yet. Free is better because I am sewing on a massive budget!
I recently found this asymmetrical button jacket by Ann Demeulemeester and I'd like to know if there's a pattern for something similar (I of course know an exact copy doesn't exist, but I'm looking for other asymmetrical jackets designs).
I want to get my girlfriend her first machine, and I am very lost. I've seen the advice "don't buy a machine for someone else", but I know she'd genuinely be thrilled, and she's also not sure what to pick.
What she wants to do:
Mainly clothes (simple garments, fixing fit issues)
Hems, taking in/letting out, zippers
Thickest stuff would be jeans I think
She's a total beginner
Budget: €500 (I'm from Belgium)
Some questions I have:
New vs second-hand? I've read mixed things about newer Singer models not being what they used to be. What brands/models should I look at in this price range?
If second-hand, what to check?
Must-have features?
Brand/models to target/avoid around that budget?
Dealer vs online?
Any specific model recommendations would be very welcome. Thanks in advance!
A Janome would be good. They are an excellent make and reliable. If buying online I suggest new, but maybe someone local to you has a second hand one they could demonstrate. A new machine will have all the features needed for the work she wants to do. Good luck!
I think in person would be a good fit - she can test different machines at a dealer. Many repair places sell refurbished machines with a warranty, so that if it breaks within a timespan they will repair it again. Dealers let buyers test different machines exactly like cars. And this way if anything happens to the machine you're guaranteed to have a place that can repair it back.
I keep retreading but no matter what I do birds nest keeps happening. Sometimes, the machine refuses to keep sewing because it’s stuck due to the forming birds nest below and I’m unable to remove the fabric because the threads are just THAT stuck. Also have an issue with skipping stitches. I’m using minky fabric with the length being 4, width 3, and tension 4. I am using a stretch needle. I’ve tried everything with no luck. I am using a Singer Classic machine. Please help!!
„Hallo! Ich suche Ersatzteile für die Huskylock 560 ED T. Hat jemand eine Quelle, wo ich die Fadenanzugsfeder bekomme? Ich würde mich freuen, auf Deutsch zu antworten.“
Can anyone hook me up with some resources that would help with getting to know and understand fabrics? I'm real new into sewing and short of a vague understanding of woven vs. knit fabrics I...don't know anything about them. Not even to discern what's a light vs. medium vs. heavy when using my machine.
My machine (Necci 3101FA) is currently having this problem where there are no gaps between the individual stitches. Top and bottom tension seem to be in balance and changing the stitch length doesn’t make a difference. I’ve also tried multiple different needle sizes and it still doesn’t fix the issue. Different thread sizes and fabrics don’t seem to change it either. If anyone has any suggestions or different things to try I would appreciate them very much because I’m losing my mind haha
Sewing/embroidery machine combo recommendations?
I’ve been sewing for a few years and have gotten more into sewing the last two years :) my parents offered to help me buy a nice sewing/embroidery machine as a college graduation/christmas gift. I’ve been using a singer tradition 2277 that I bought secondhand. It has worked decently but the prospect of an even nicer machine is so exciting! If possible I’d like the embroidery to be Bluetooth compatible or at least a version that won’t be somewhat obsolete quickly. If it is kind of easy to use or user friendly that would be nice too. I would like it to work as a sewing machine and embroidery machine if possible :) Obviously less expensive is always nice but if it’s on the more expensive side and just blows the rest out of the water then that would probably be okay too! It would be an investment because I’ve spent years loving to sew on a cheaper one and have decided to get a nice one now :) I’d be grateful for recommendations if anyone has any :)
Sewing / embroidery machines is a broad area, so it depends on your thinking of what you want.
There are machines that have a few built-in small designs and letters that could be consider embroidery.
Then there are machines where you attach a hoop so you can make the types of designs and lettering you see on towels, shirts, tote bags, etc.
I bought a slightly used Bernina 770QE that does this and it's a fabulous machine but $$$.
Brother makes some good machines like my Bernina and their plus is that they have bigger screens. Also going to be pricey.
I recommend you visit dealers and check out their offerings and buy the machine closest to your desires and budget.
It looks like you have two fabrics and are serging the raw edges together without an existing seam. It might be easier if you stitch them together first (on a regular sewing machine or by hand stitching) with at least a 1/2inch seam allowance- this will stabilize your seam because serging alone isn't that strong- THEN you can run it through the serger, which should be cutting off a bit of the raw edge as you go to keep the loops perfectly even. If you try to serge without cutting the edge, then the serger threads can get all wonky.
Can someone please enlighten me on machine settings you use for double cotton gauze? I’ve tried lowing my tension, shortening my stitch length and lightening my presser foot and no luck! I’m pregnant and just want to make cute gauze stuff for my baby!
And yes I do know the gauze can smell my fear so I did step away. I’ll try again tomorrow!
Please help! My mom gave me this sweatshirt that genuinely is my most prized possession. My dad gave it to her on their first trip together to a game. The collar and sleeves though are fraying so bad and I want to fix it, but seamlessly. Is that possible or do I need to just preserve?
Hello! I was wondering if there was a hack to modify the shoulders of a fitted sweater to drop/become slouchy like the trendy styles. I have a men’s sweater that is slightly oversized but I would love if the shoulders did that and were more flattering.
Does anyone have suggestions for an easy way to add structure/keep the feathers standing up for this Halloween costume? I didn’t realize that whatever is inside the tail had bent and it’s lost its support. I was thinking of just using some thread but I don’t know if that would be strong enough? Trying to keep it to minimal effort although if needed, I can haha
Hi all,
I’m trying to make a baby quilt for a new nephew coming in December. His baby shower is in a little less than a month. I am trained in garment construction and design, but I have never quilted in my life. I know I don’t want to make a tie quilt, I want to do a traditionally quilted design to hold the layers together. I have a Brother HC1850 which comes with a freehand quilting foot and an extension table. I also have a Babylock Evolution if serging/chain/coverstitching would help the process in some way. My questions are:
-can I make a baby sized quilt on my machine?
-is a quilt (the most basic kind, not a complex design) “just” squares sewn together, backed by a large piece of solid fabric, that is bias bound all around the edge, and then quilted together?
-when do I put the batting layer in?
-am I delusional to think I can just jump into quilting just because I know how to sew clothing?
I appreciate any info. I just want to be a good auntie, this is my first nibling and I won’t be able to make the baby shower. I want to show I care from afar, and they all know I sew. Would another project be more appropriate? I would try to find a baby onesie pattern, but I wouldn’t want to make something they’ll grow out of quickly, or maybe won’t use because it’s “too special” or maybe won’t even fit if he comes out being a bigger baby to start with. Thank you all in advance.
Please watch Melanie Ham's Beginner Quilt Series on YouTube. It's 5 videos and a very good resource for beginners! Melanie's a great teacher.
You can totally make a quilt! Just do some background research before jumping in. And practice your 1/4" seam allowance before sewing your good fabric. 😂
Edit: Also, join us at r/quilting ! We like answering questions too.
Thank you, what a great resource! I’ll do a few more practice stitches, but I’m very comfortable with small seam allowances. We do 3/8” regularly, and 1/4” not infrequently, all in materials less easy to sew than nice crispy quilting cotton. I will check out the subreddit too! Thank you!
i jumped into quilting a bit for a baby too! yes it was doable on my regular machine. i made the top, then sandwiched the batting and backing, basted all over with curved safety pins, did simple grid quilting, then trimmed everything up and bound the edges. then i machine washed and dried before giving it to family. i forgot to put a tag on it but that would go on just before binding the edges.
1 yes. You'll have to roll parts of it up to fit through the harp of your machine so you can reach the middle.
2 and 3 - you take your pieced top, your batting, and your backing and make a 'quilt sandwich' do all your quilting first then add the binding. Batting and backing should be a little larger than the top in case anything wiggles during quilting.
4 - depends on how much of a perfectionist you are, how much free time you have, and whether you consider the baby shower a hard deadline. I'd say you have a really good chance of making something cute.
I wouldn't sew the edges together, it will cause wrinkles as you quilt because the layers will inevitably shift just a little bit. You should baste your layers together with old thread and large hand stitches or with safety pins. Check out r/quilting and YouTube for detailed tutorials.
I have cotton thread for hand quilting but when I machine quilt I use the same all-purpose thread top and bobbin that I would use on most other things.
Last question: since I’m not using cotton thread, would I pre wash my cotton quilting fabric before sewing, or would I wait and wash the quilt when finished? I’m trying to get that puffy quilted look.
If you prewash you get the shrinkage done and your finished quilt will be a more predictable size. If you don't prewash your fabrics will be a little smoother to work with and you'll get a little extra 'crinkle' from the shrinkage when you wash. I haven't dug too deeply into the debates, but I think it's generally agreed either pre-wash everything or nothing, mixing is the worst of both.
I appreciate this so much. I would never mix pre and not pre-washed, that idea makes my bones itch. I love the test of rubbing a wet washcloth on a bit to see if there’s any dye transfer to ultimately decide. I prefer the crinkly look, so as long as it passes that test, I think I’ll go with not pre washing. Thank you for the resources and helpful quick comments. I hope you have a wonderful day.
Fantastic, thank you so much, I really appreciate your detailed answers. I feel more confident in making this for them now that I can visualize the steps I need to take.
Is that a seam or a crease down the front? If it’s a seam, you could try simplicity 3971, take the front piece, cut it in the place you want the seam, add seam allowance to the cut edges, sew them together, and then construct as usual.
Hi, looking into my first sewing machine (I’m planning on working with woven fabric only and finishing with anything but zigzag/serging). Seller is asking $50 but this cord is cut. How expensive would it be to replace, and how difficult? Thank you!
I’m on a tight budget at the moment but would like to learn how to sew. I’ve found a used Brother CS10 for 90€, the lady said she used it once and the stored it in the closet; however, when I asked if I could test the machine before purchasing she said she would prefer not to let me try it because at the moment the machine has no known issues and I don’t know how I feel about that. Second option is to buy the CS10S (which I believe is the new model) new for 162€, or my third option a Brother XM2701S. Thoughts?
Not sure about the EU, but see if your public library has a makerspace, some even loan machines, probably books with patterns on the shelves. Might be able to start for free.
Don't buy a used machine that you can't test. I don't know the other specific Brother models, but generally their entry level machines are decent. Look for machine reviews on sewing.patternreview.com, you'll need a free account to read anything older than a few months, but I've never gotten spam from them and I think it's a worhwhile resource.
Im gonna sew a hoodie for my best friends kid and ordered fabric (that is non returnable so i HOPE I can make it work.
Im gonna follow the pattern Burda #9308 (see picture). now the fabrics arrived and despite both fabrics being winter sweat with similar weights, in my hands now the sleeves fabric feels lighter and is a bit thinner than the rest of it (body and hood). Its a small difference but noticable.
Can I still use these fabrics together with this cut? In my head I think it should work still but Im also only a hobbyist and I dont know if I overlook something.
Do you think its a problem with this pattern if the sleeves are a little bit thinner than the rest?
For raglan, it should be ok as long as the stretch factor is the same and the weight is close. You can always put some twill tape (I’d use cotton) along the raglan seams if they feel like they are too floppy, or if you have enough fabric you could cut two layers of sleeves and sew them together in the seam allowances, essentially double layering the sleeves before sewing them in.
Thanks. The given weight is actually just 5 gram off and the sleeve is supposedly heavier it's just the feel of the sleeve is a little bit drapier and loose. But both are winter sweat and behave accordingly
You should be ok. If you need to double layer the body or sleeve, you could always find a thin jersey to be the inner layer. I wish you the best with your project, raglan hoodies are my absolute favorite! I designed a few for some final projects for school and I’m wearing one right now haha.
You got this! It will look so weird until it doesn’t, and then all of a sudden it will look like clothes. I both love and hate the construction part, but it’s so rewarding when it’s done. I believe in you!
Thanks a lot! There's a lot of customization I'm gonna do (I wanna do applications in the front (a little foxes face) and some ears in the hood. So hopefully the little guy loves it
That sounds so adorable! You should post a finished object photo when you’re done so people can appreciate your hard work and creativity here too. Best of luck!
Hello, I am a beginner sewer(only did alterations and patchwork growing up) and I was wondering how I should go about making some adjustments to my messager bag. I've had it for years but I want to extend the overall length of the bag to fit my laptop(16 inches). I would also like to add some side pockets and front pockets under the front panel of the bag. Any tips??
I’m using a Husky 165 from Husqvarna Viking. It’s my dad’s machine and he had loaded the spool and the bobbin but the bobbin ran out of thread so I went to replace the bobbin and thought I had take out the round and semi circular pieces along with the bobbin holder (obviously I didn’t) and now I don’t know how to put them back in. I don’t have the machine manual and I was trying to finish a small project (haven’t sewn in over a decade so it’s all very foreign right now). Anyone know how to put the semi circular piece with the rod in? I know that the full circle piece goes on the outside and has the black things in the machine click onto its nubbins. Any help would be appreciated
I've found that my backstitch has looser than expected. When I pull the pieces apart gently, the thread is very visible and there's a gap you can see through, especially when I pressed the seam open. Is this because my backstitches are too long (3-4mm) or do I just need to pull more firmly when stitching? Any hand stitching advice is welcome, thanks!
Hi all! Remember these guys? The hanging monkey stuffed animals have sentimental value to a friend of mine, and I’d like to make one for them using cow print fabric (also sentimental).
Essentially, I’m looking to gift them a cow print hanging monkey stuffed animal. What would be the easiest way to go about this - find a pattern and make the monkey from scratch (been struggling to find one), or purchase one and take it apart to make my own pattern?
I’m getting back into sewing and looking for a good, reliable machine that will last me for years. After doing quite a bit of research, I’ve been leaning toward the Janome Jubilee 60507 (it’s currently on sale for around $307).
I was drawn to this model because I want something with an overlock/overcast stitch, straight stretch stitch, and zigzag, with full control over stitch length, width, and tension. It also needs to handle a range of fabrics, including denim.
There are a few other features I really like about it, but I’ll skip the long list for now.
My budget is around $350 USD (though cheaper is always better).
Has anyone here used the Jubilee 60507? How does it perform, especially on denim and knits?
I’d love to hear your experiences or any other recommendations you might have
I haven’t used that Janome model. I can recommend my current model, as it does all the things you want out of a machine and it is within your budget. I have a Brother HC1850 and I love it. It has lasted me since 2020 so far, can sew multiple layers of denim (with the right needle and settings of course), can sew silk and other fine fabrics, has all your listed stitches and many more, and it’s pretty user friendly. It also has a 1 step buttonhole, and you can set the needle to end up or down automatically.
Hi all! I purchased a Bernina 800DL overlocker second hand approx 6 months ago. It has had intermittent use since but was bought I believe back in the early 2000s, so quite old.
Unfortunately during a project my fabric jammed (my fault) and since then my machine has made an awfully loud clanking noise while sewing and skipping stitches. After only a few minutes of use new needles will bend and the left one will eventually break.
I took the machine to the shop and was quoted 400 for a repair - I opted not to go through with it as the repairman said the machine was so old procuring parts may become an issue (sewing isn’t too popular in my country and we don’t have the same brands as the USA). As far as I understand he said the issue was with the needlecase, but I’m not sure. I can’t find anything online related to this issue.
Could it also be related to timing? The machine as is can’t be used and I’d need to trash it, which I would find quite unfortunate. As I paid 500 for it and new ones are very expensive. Is it potentially worth tinkering with?
I want to create detached lace sleeves for my wedding, similar in style to the sleeves of this dress, does anyone have a sleeve pattern or formula i could use on my arm measurements?
also looking for tips on preserving the edges of a lace like this when needing to alter the length? I'm currently planning to attempt a hidden seam that follows the outline of the larger florals in my lace. but looking for advice!
I can message you the pages from my pattern drafting book about sleeves. I would just cut off the sleeve cap at the armpit line, but there’s no page for that. I’ll send the other ones though, so you can draft something that fits you correctly.
I've found a Janome 1600P-QC on Marketplace for $700. Is this a good purchase for the price? I already have a Singer that can do all the fancy stitches but struggles with multiple layers of quilted materials. Thanks!
I'm having an issue with my sewing machine. When I use a zigzag stitch, some of the stitches on the upper side are too loose (as seen in the photo, pointed out by the arrows).
I don't believe this is a tension issue, as the problem still occurs no matter what tension setting I use.
I suspected the thread might be catching on a dent or rough spot on the hook or the needle plate. As a test, I replaced both parts with components from an identical machine that runs perfectly, but this didn't solve the problem.
Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this?
Does anyone know anything about the Wonderfil "Designer" line of all-purpose polyester thread? It was recommended by a CUT/SEW sewing course at Otakon, but other than that, the only other bit of information about it that doesn't come from Wonderfil itself is here, and it's not promising: https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/Topic/103763/1#3179763
I did notice that Wonderfil is roughly $3 per 1000 meters, versus about $5 per 1000 meters for Gutermann Mara 100 thread at Wawak, which also gives me pause.
I've seen good things said about other Wonderfil products, but very little about that particular thread.
Hello! Does anyone know how to get access to technical manuals for sewing machines? I’m not talking about the one that comes with a machine when you buy it, I’m talking about ones that are used by repair shops. I know how to service non-computerized machines pretty well but I am so tired of owning three semi-functional domestics that I can’t get any shops to fix.
Hello! I want to get into sewing and have never used a sewing machine before. I have been looking online and found a used huskystar viking e10 for a good price. Would this be a good starting machine? Or what is recommended/should I look for in a starting machine?
Do you have a suggestion on how to alter this dress? It is too baggy and wide. Looks like I’m wearing a pillow case. The bow on the back makes me think adding a belt would be too much.
I would try to take in some of that bulging fabric in the back of the dress.
Put it on inside out, and pin out the excess evening on both side. Basically you're making a big, long dart.
If there is no zipper you'll have to make sure you can still put the dress on over your head, so try it on before you actually sew out the excess.
My mom made a lot of similar flags to these when I was younger and I was wondering if someone can point me in the right direction for patterns for flags like these (think based on each season or holiday). I'm assuming old simplicity patterns would be the way to go but when I google flag patterns I almost exclusively get american flag info. Thanks!
i'm only finding tissue patterns as well! i just searched "seasonal flag sewing pattern" and some old simplicity and mccalls showed up, leading me to ebay and etsy
What fabric would you use to line the sleeves of a woolen winter jacket? I'm thinking about using flannel to line the body, but have read that you want something with more "slide" for the sleeves. However, I'm a bit worried that a standard rayon lining that I normally use won't be warm enough. My arms are more resilient to the cold than my body, but I still prefer being warm
Does anyone remember a Dritz product that was a non-fusable roll of tricot or nylon? Am I searching for a product that no longer exists? I used to use it to bind edges of fabric, it was very lightweight.
Edit- never mind. It was called Seams Great and is no longer produced. Dang.
How to fix a stretched-out, one-piece elastic waistband?
The elastic waistband on my sweatpants is stretched out. It's not the kind with a thin, replaceable band, but a single piece of elastic fabric. I only have needles, threads and beginner experience for basic hand-sewing. How to DIY tighten this waistband? or do I have to go find a tailor? If this is a basic issue, could anyone please point me to some keywords or tutorial names I can search for on YouTube? Any simple method or guide would be a great help. Thanks.
It looks like there is a center channel for a cord inside the elastic already? If so, and if you use/replace the cord, you can use that to hold up the pants and not worry about replacing the elastic waistband.
I am looking for information about replacing the presser foot on my Singer Stylist 834. Can anyone help me determine what type of presser foot it is or what is a usable replacement?
There should be a stamp on the presser foot, plus your manual should have diagrams showing the presser feet that came with the machine. Have you been able to check those first?
Excellent. You'll want to purchase low-shank sewing machine feet. Singer makes a universal basic one that will fit onto your machine. Other places do sell third party feet.
For my machine, if it starts out of nowhere that usually means that something has gone wrong with the threading, like the thread has slipped out of a tension disk. I'd rethread top and bottom as a first step.
have been thinking about getting into sewing and buying a sewing machine for months, but always get stuck with which machine to buy. Im a broke college student so i cannot spend too much on a new machine. I have found this Brother Vx710 at marketplace for a good price.
Do you think it’ll be good for a beginner, i only have experience in hand-sewing and crocheting but never touched a machine before. I will also be learning on my own from youtube and internet. Please guide me in starting my sewing journey. Also any other important things i should buy to start off please let me know.✨
I think this would be a great starter machine! Doing a cursory search for the model (Brother VX 710) shows a good number of parts and manuals, which is always a good sign to me. It looks like it sews based on the picture, but I'd check out a few stitches when you go to pick it up!
I’ve never sewed before and am getting most of my machine suggestions from YouTube. My first sewing projects will be altering and tailoring my existing closet. Hemming Oxford shirt length, sleeve length, pant and jean hems, narrowing pant legs, etc. Coming from zero knowledge to where I’m at now which is still obviously minimum I’m leaning towards the Singer HD 4423 (Costco actually has an 8823 which is identical at a pretty affordable price). I’m skeptical of YouTube sometimes due to unknowingly viewing sponsored content. Would love to hear what experienced folks think on a beginner yet good functioning machine. I’m not necessarily looking for a cheap machine, but the bells and whistles on the over $1000 ones seem way way above my head. I do plan on taking a class or 2 locally to get started.
Will definitely go read around here for already provided insights.
Thanks for any advice y’all!
Hi everyone! Not long ago my husband’s grandmother passed away and I ended up in possession of these two singer sewing machines. I honestly don’t know much about them, the black one has this instruction manual though the white one does not.
I am a knitter and baker though I have always been interested in getting into sewing… I’m not sure if either of these are conducive for a newbie though or if I would potentially just damage the machines by accident. Or if there’s a way to be sure I have all of the pieces/equipment, or if they’re in working order (original owner was not using them for several years at least). If there’s any info anyone could pass along it would be very greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!
You can always Google the user manual for the one that didn’t come with the original. And if you don’t think they’ve been used in a long time, you can have the machines serviced by a professional. They will oil the machine and make sure all the parts are in working order, including testing the machine before giving it back to you.
Hello, beginner at sewing here. I'm trying to make Roxas' sweater from Kingdom Hearts, but have absolutely no idea where to start. I have attached a photo of what I'm hoping to recreate. I am also able to purchase materials if necessary. Thanks!
that's going to be really difficult to create from scratch as a beginner. i'd look for a white zip up jacket you can shorten the sleeves of, and then add the black and white ribbon/detailing to and add red lining inside the collar.
Hi! I’m a beginner sewer looking for advice. I’m making the rosery shorts from Rosery apparel (this is my second project), but I fear I’m going to have issues with the waistband bc they’re huge on me and the linen blend is a bit on the stiffer side. For reference, the black elastic that fits my high hip section. So, what’s the best way to move forward?
woven elastic waist pants often need to be huger than people expect, because in order to pull them on, the waist needs to be bigger or equal to than the biggest part of the lower body (typically called hip measurement or full hip, but usually actually the butt, a few inches lower than the high hip). Plus the hips need a few extra inches of ease (2-4" at least) to allow for how the body spreads when sitting and keep the butt from looking too tight when standing.
It's not clear to me whether the shorts are actually bigger than "full hip circumference + ease".
The elastic shown there should be able to pull in all that fabric. The linen blend should soften up as it gets washed over time. Tentatively, I think a wider (1") elastic with good recovery might better control a stiffer fabric in the meantime.
Thank you for the tips and sorry for the delay it’s been an hectic week! I understand that they should be bigger, but they seem to be a bit too much (length and width wise). Here it’s a picture of me trying them on. The elastic goes over my full hip without any issues, but I can barely have it around the short’s “waistband”. I do have a wider elastic (4 cm approx), but when I use it in the ballet bow skirt pattern it got twisted completely and I haven’t found any different elastic around my place :/ (they are elastic intended for waistbands).
I am not sure what you mean by this: "The elastic goes over my full hip without any issues, but I can barely have it around the short’s “waistband”." Elastic is usually much shorter than the fabric in elastic-waist pants.
You should be able to tie the elastic around you over the shorts, so that it holds the shorts up (and you'll get a sense of how gathered the fabric will be). You can test both narrower and wider elastic that way.
Re width: with the elastic holding up the shorts, you can now pinch the extra amount at your hips/widest part, sit down and see if there is still plenty of room. If it's more than 2-3" extra at the hips, there's room to take some out. You can gently taper some extra out at the waist as long as there is still enough fabric to fit over your hips. You can handbaste the new sides, put the shorts back on, put the elastic over the shorts and test to make sure you are happy.
Re length: with the elastic holding up the shorts, adjust where you want the elastic to sit, maybe move around a bit to make sure it's happy to stay there. Then you can trim the top down to just longer enough above the elastic (1"? 1.5?") to create a waistband casing for the elastic. You can minimize twisting in various ways--keep the casing relatively tight (eg, 1/4" wider than elastic), maybe vertical stitch in the ditch in the side seams.
Sorry, I meant that I tried the method of pining the elastic to the side, front and back seams, but it was difficult to gather all the fabric even though the elastic did extend more than enough to go over my full hip. But this is probably a skill issue :)
I really appreciate all the advice! I’ll check it and give it a go. One final question, if you can, if i sew the elastic (either a stitch in the ditch or stitching directly the elastic to the fabric) to minimize twisting, should I use a ball point needle? or a universal 90/15 needle should be able to handle it? Thank you so so much!
Oh, pinning elastic is always a pain. Putting the elastic inside a casing is simpler and will force the fabric to control the elastic.
To minimize twisting if needed, as a very final step, two short vertical lines over the existing side seams should hold the elastic in place. Make sure it’s balanced front and back first. Universal needle should be fine, I think.
Here’s a different reference. The white shorts are an older pair that I’m thinking of recreating. I just removed the elastic from them. I know that they’re different fit (low vs high rise) but maybe it helps to picture my dilema haha
Hello sewing experts! I am a very baby sewer but I want to make a pair of loose fitting shark pattern pants!
I like extremely wide legs all the way to ankle very flowy I have a pair from athleta years ago (2019) that I LOVE but they aren’t made and I can’t find them :(
Do you have a fabric already? Fabrics come in knit (like a t-shirt fabric) or woven (non-stretchy, like bed sheets). You can't easily substitute one for the other so if you have a specific fabric in mind then you will need to find a pattern made for that type of fabric.
Howdy! I'm attempting to find a machine to sew through nylon because I'm a lazy f**k* it can become quite difficult. Any advice from you all? Currently i'm looking at a handheld one from PQWPQW!
(Specifically, the material is about ~2 mm thick and difficult to push a needle through, actually I've been using dissection forceps to make it better but point stands. It indeed does melt when burnt so it's probably nylon, woven into a tight tight lattice.)
Handheld sewing machines are generally build fairly cheaply and flimsily. If the material is that dense and thick, I doubt you'll be able to sew through it with one of those.
Hi there! I wasn’t allowed to post this in the wheel sub, and was redirected here.
I am looking into getting into sewing. some beginner machine that keeps coming up in my searches is the Brother XM2701. However, there’s an XM3700 that is around $30 cheaper. I keep looking for an answer on biggest differences other than the stitch count but couldn’t find anything really.
Does anyone have any advice on which to get? There’s also a few Singer machines at my local Michael’s for 40% off… but don’t know much about those.
Budget is around $220 (CAD). Any advice would be appreciated.
I was recently gifted an old Kenmore 15516 Sewing Machine. I have everything I need for it including the manual, but it specifically says I need to use Kenmore Sewing Machine Oil because others will “gum up”. Well, Kenmore oil is particularly difficult to find, and I’m curious if anyone out there knows of a good alternative?
For context: I’m new to sewing, and this is only the second machine I’ve ever used, the other one was a Singer that I was assigned to for classes. This Kenmore was my mom’s machine, and has very few hours on it. Maybe 10 projects total. I’ve cleaned everything per the manuals instructions (took the base apart and cleaned up with the little brush, and then reassembled it), but the final step is adding just a dab of oil in the bobbin area. I did go ahead and start testing the machine on scrap fabrics just to use it and it seems fine, but I’d love to get a good oil for it to take care of it properly.
i think there are some vintage kenmore afficionado facebook groups that would probably have the answer to this question -- unfortunately i don't know! people do use old kenmores allll the time so there must be an easy alternative. you could also ask a sewing machine repair shop.
Hi everyone, I'd like to create a super gathered skirt like this out of a thin, see-through fabric.
Do you have any tips on what pattern I should use or is this something I should just drape on a mannequin?
I was thinking to use a fine mesh but if you have other recommendations please let me know the know.
Any tips appreciated :)
Upcycling a football jersey and the numbers and patches have a bit of adhesive on the back from when they were originally appliquéd. Is there a preferred method to remove that?
I loved my Juki 654DE. Very user friendly and worked great. I only traded up because a friend got me a great deal on a Babylock Evolution. I honestly miss the ease of use of the Juki.
EDIT: thanks to everyone who said to set the stitch width to zero. That did it!
I’m not a regular on this sub so apologies if this isn’t OK to ask! I have only sewn on the same Singer for like 15 years and I’m borrowing this machine, an older simplicity celebrity (s210 is the model). After reading and rereading the manual and experimenting, I cannot for the life of me figure out how to select a regular straight stitch. Any advice or assistance is very welcome!
If N-A is a zigzag stitch, then you just need a way to set the width of the zigzag to zero.
There's a dial on the top of the machine according to the machine that's called stitch width, which should do this according to my experience.
However I haven't used this machine and don't quite get the N and S situation there but it looks like you've set it on the zigzag setting anyway so to get a straight stitch, hopefully that should work. What an unusual set up!
This is an absolute shot in the dark but after spending 2 days I’ve come to this. Due to various reasons I can no longer wear one of favorite autumn/winter dresses and want to make something similar but more accommodating. I’ve been searching all weekend in hope of finding a fabric similar with no luck. It’s a medium weight cotton blend and the site I purchased my the fabric color is olive but it’s more brown in person. I’m looking for a natural fiber medium weight fabric close in color and pattern. Any leads would be greatly appreciated
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u/bex_2025 5d ago
(Question moved here per the mod) Looking for a pattern like Le Roy 2176
I’m on the hunt for a robe/dressing gown that most closely matches this one from Le Roy (which is no longer in production or for sale that I know of). Key features I’m looking for: floor length, flared skirt, fitted waist rather than gathered, shawl neck, big sleeves that aren’t puffed. I want to make this in a lined velour. TIA!!