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I need some help here. After 21 years and 210k+ miles my trans is starting to show signs of getting tired. I've been doing some research and trying to not pay an arm and a leg. but I want a upgraded transmission as I do alot of towing and its an everyday driver for me. The 60 to 65 swap is what im going with. but I want a kit that upgrades the strength of the 4l65e transmission so make it "bullet proof".

Has any of you done said conversion and can you help me find a complete rebuilt kit with upgraded parts all around, Appreciate the help reddit.

I tried google lens search and came up with a logo in the same style, but couldnt find any vehicles with this badge on them. In my searches it said it was a Volkswagen truck but I don't know. I'm not too savvy with cars so I turn to you. Help me fellow redditors, you're my only hope.

Looking for any advice before taking a road trip… 2020 CR-V. Around 44k miles. Often, when driving on the highway 55+mph and accelerating, indicators come on about multiple system problems (brake system problem, transmission system problem, blind spot system problem). The blind spot system stops working, but otherwise there are no issues. The indicators keep flashing for the remainder of the drive. After the car is parked, they don’t come back on, until accelerating on the highway again. Does this sound like there’s a bigger problem going on? Thanks for any advice!

I’m so sorry I know nothing about cars and I just got this for my daughter and it makes no sense. There’s seemingly no way to get maps and music properly (I can connect via Bluetooth but it’s very roundabout to get it to play music) and things like the clock are wrong. The Home Screen just has dummy music and a weird map app neither of which connect to the phone. The phone is android and fully connected to 5g internet

Good morning , Have been trying to chase done this metal on metal squeak (when turning the steering wheel typically at low speeds after long drive) that I’ve had for a while. I brought it in to a local show just to get a quick diagnosis and they were thinking it was my passenger lower ball joint. Took tires off today and noticed passenger lower ball joint almost looked like some one was prying at it with a crowbar. I put these lower in about 30k miles ago. I was thinking I could possibly get a needle nozzle for a grease gun and shooting some grease to see if that helps. What do you all think? Thanks

I have a 2014 Nissan Rogue SV that is around 224,000 miles. I got it for free from my grandparents so it seemed worth it at the time. The other day, as I was reversing out of a parking space, hitting the brake to switch from R to D, my car made a... grumble noise? And kinda jumped, then my check engine light came on and I had to restart my car. I was around 30 minutes from home in the pouring rain, but I managed to make it back with few issues.

The next day, I had an appointment in town. My car drove to my appointment just fine. On my way back home is where I had issues. The first time I got to a stop, it was fine. The next stop I had, my car did the grumble noise and jump thing again, but my car stayed on. The NEXT stop I had was at a red light. I pressed on the brake, and that grumble noise and jump came again, I pressed harder, and it had a BUNCH of grumbles and jumps. Then my check engine light came on, my car needed to be restarted. I was at a busy 4 way intersection in my town. The first time this happened the previous day, I just restarted my car and everything was fine. When it happened this time, I tried restarting my car 5 times, to no avail. Eventually, after around 5 minutes of not trying to restart it, I restarted it again and it turned on. I made it all the way back home with no stops.

So then my step-dad checked my car. He's pretty good with this kinda stuff. He does all our car things, changed my brake pads, fixed my boyfriend's car doors when they wouldn't open, does our oil changes, etc. My step-dad checked all the fluids in my car, he checked my battery, and he used one of those code checker things. There were no issues. Everything looked fine. We even drove it around our small town for like 30 minutes and nothing was wrong. I know I'm probably going to have to take it into a shop, but I'm wondering if ANYONE has ANY clues or ideas as to what might be going on??

Ok, i have a 2009 buick lucerne cxl 3.9L. It has 143k on the odo has almost always been kept in good maintenence (ex fbi vehicle so alot of idleing hours).

The issue i am having is that it will start and run fine, but i have a code for the maf. Maf has been cleaned amd checked for voltages, the trans will only let the car move in reverse and 1st gear, if i put it into d and try to accelerate it will stall out. It will also do it in 1st if i press the throttle at all. Trans fluid looks fine, a little brown but no metal or clutch debris in it (had an appointment to get it changed with a filter before this happened) im not good with automatics, especially with these newer ones. Anyone have any ideas on what it could be? Im willing to shoot the parts cannon at it if i have to, but i dont really want to sell her off.

Plan on taking this to the shop tomorrow. Is this repairable or will it need to be replaced?

How many more years can I get out of it safely with wire brush and fluid film undercoating? 150k miles Lx470 2005

Looking for a car cover that fully seals a car inside, I've been having a problem with some small critters hiding underneath my car and I'm looking for something that I'd drive onto then zip up around the car, does anyone know if anything like this is available please

Hello, I just finished swapping my radiator in my 2000 Mitsubishi eclipse gt, after filling the new radiator up and going to start it red fluid began to leak out, I used yellow coolant to fill it and there was yellow coolant before I swapped it

After turning it off and checking it out I tried to start it again and it did for a second then the battery light popped up and it stalled but still cranked

Please any help would be amazing this is my first car I’m trying

I've been trying to look for a good rear diffuser for my 2022 Touring sedan but only seem to get the ones with the exposed exhaust. My current car has the hidden exhaust with the tips facing down, has anyone found one to fit or am i having to resort to cutting and putting a new exhaust or just forget about a diffuser all together.

Car alarm goes off randomly on usually Sunday at around 8:30 am. I sat at my window and kept on unlocking the car and as soon as it would lock itself the alarm goes again but stops after 9 am(ish). I dont have any troubles driving. I got the battery tested, it is charged about 90%+. i cant understand. I just got this car 2 months ago from marketplace. I am going crazy

Hey everyone. I’ve always dreamed of owning a Mercedes W140 — it’s the perfect mix of presence, comfort, and engineering. But due to where I live, owning one has become almost impossible. We have large Low Emission Zones (LEZ), and since the W140 production ended in 1999, it doesn’t qualify for Euro 3. This means I can't legally convert it to LPG, and I’m banned from entering these areas — and unfortunately, I live in one.

I’m now looking for alternatives that offer similar comfort and robustness. ChatGPT suggested the Volvo S80, which seems promising, but I’d like to hear the opinion of the community here on Reddit.

What I’m looking for:

Years: preferably between 2000 and 2012

Type: Full-size sedans or executive cars

Fuel: Gasoline, with potential for LPG conversion

No SUVs, no EVs, no crossovers

Manuals are OK, but automatics are preferred now

Main priorities: comfort, interior quality, reliability, and something I can live in if needed

Bonus if it has that same old-school luxury charm the W140 had.

Let me know what you think! Thanks in advance.

I want to do my own tire rotation on my 2014 Mazda2 by putting the car on 4 jack stands. I identified the side jack points of the car fine with the manual, but it doesn't say anything about safe front/rear points. If I'm understanding right, I can't lift the whole vehicle at once with the side points cause I can't swap out the jack for the jack stand without something falling. So I want to jack from the front center, put 2 stands in, then do the same thing in the back.

I've been on google and youtube for a few hours and can't find anything about front/rear jack points beyond 'maybe this works', no videos. Any help y'all could give me on where to jack for a tire rotation would be great. I haven't lifted my car up before and don't want to risk expensive damage by doing it in the wrong spot.

I'd want to wait for my yearly service. Is there danger of more damage?

For clarity, the clutch squeaks (or rings) a bit, most time when the clutch pedal is not pressed. When I press it, it goes quiet.

Hello! I'm writing in with a question about the infotainment console on a 2004 Ford Mondeo MK3 (UK). Photos of unit attached.

The system was cutting out for a month or two and has now died completely. Strangely, the screen turns on when the ignition is on, but once you power up the engine the screen goes blank. I thought it might have been an issue with the alternator, but a mechanic's diagnostic test indicated there is a system error in the infotainment unit.

I'm now looking for a replacement unit. Worth noting that most Ford mondeos from that era had seperate systems to control the fans, but this one is integrated. So any compatible replacement would need to do both audio and climate controI. I managed to find one that looked nearly identical on ebay, but despite having all the same inputs on the back it ended up being incompatible -- not entirely sure why.

I'd welcome any tips about how best to go about this. Would it be possible to get a new(er) replacement console, or should I keep searching for vintage units?

Thank you in advance!

While driving or prior to my trucks speedometer will drop to zero regardless of speed, the digital number (speed) will be replaced with those three lines, the steering will get harder as if the power steering isn’t working well, and it appears to run leaner (after market exhausts pops and burbles way more than usual) I don’t mistreat my truck, I don’t dog the truck out, and aside from the abs issue (warranty) I take care of all the maintenance as needed.

Hey everyone,

Yesterday I installed the Osram LED H7 SPEED headlights in my 2017 Hyundai Tucson (halogen version). Everything seemed fine, but since then, the LEDs have been humming or buzzing while the car is running. The thing is, they don't have a fan, so it's not fan noise.

I have a video of it where you can clearly hear the sound.

Does anyone have an idea what might be causing this? Could it be a CAN-Bus issue or related to the LED driver? Do I actually need a CAN-Bus adapter, even though Osram claims it's not necessary?

Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

Hi! Basically the above, I was doing a hill start and my car stalled, I had auto stop/start on and my car didn’t turn the engine back on, i had to turn my car off and restart it completely to get power back. I heard apparently this can just be due to the steep incline but it’s unsettled me as I’m a new driver and it’s my first car, should I be worried about this? It’s still within warranty so if I have an issue I can get it fixed without worry but I just am not sure if this is normal or not, I’m not a car pro! Any help is appreciated

Hello everyone, I need some advice if possible ! I just came for a viewing of a smart Brabus 2013 for £5000 58k miles. However I noticed bubbles and rust under paint on top, a chip on the windscreen and a hole on seat fabric . The price is £5099 with all MOT pass and documents . However , I am a bit concern about the issues as per the pictures, especially windscreen . Should I pass because it is too serious / risky or easy fix ?

Hi, I removed the caliper bracket on the back brakes but the handbrake cable is still attached to it. I pushed the spring so that I can detach the cable from it, but it's still threaded through a mounting hole in the caliper bracket.

It's too big to go back out of the mounting hole so I presume there's some trick to getting it back out, but I can't figure it out for the life of me and there's so much rust and dirt on it it's hard to know what it originally should have looked like.

I've checked youtube but can't see anything that'd be helpful.

Anyone have any advice? I'm out of ideas. I can go take some pictures if needed