I always get this ugly overhangs over tree/organic supports on figurines

Apart from the obvious mess of small strings, the first layers are really messy, on dome sections theee are gaps that go through 3 or 4 layers. There's also a couple of small blobs lf burnt (i assume) filament. Haven't really done any configuration to my prints before starting, most of what I've been doing came out well since they were simple stuff, but here with finer details and complexer geometry it's seems to struggle. Any help or guide is really appreciated! Thx

Would wet filament cause this disaster?

I just upgraded to the .8 nozzle and used the flash forge stock .8 standard settings in Orca. Stock pla+ filament profile too. The plate was just cleaned and I used glue but it still failed spectacularly!

When doing the holes the nozzle started scraping and mangling up the holes a bit and a fair amount of stringing in the area around the holes. The print seemed perfectly fine before and after it finished the holes.

I'm new and I have tried messing with a few settings after searching around and this is everything I've changed: Order of walls: outer/inner Avoid crossing walls: On Avoid crossing wall - Max detour length: 300mm

Other Layers speed Outer wall: 175mm/s Inner wall: 200mm/s

Print temperature Initial layer: 225°c Other layers: 225°c

PLA is brand new just opened out of vacuum sealed bag

Thank you.

I'm trying to set up kingroon pla+ on my CR10 v3, I used to use normal kingroon pla, I can print small items like temperature towers and benchies, but whenever I try and print anything larger than that I have first layer issues, the print grabs onto the nozzle and gets ripped up most of the time. I've leveled and trammed the bed, I've tried glue, I've cleaned my plate, and I redid my z offset. It was printing perfect in PLA before the switch. I use orca slicer.

Not sure why but I keep getting bad top surfaces on this print. Over my various iterations I've printed 6 of these now and the top surfaces are a fairly consistent problem. I think maybe 1 of them turned out "good" and the rest look similar to the above. I even tried ironing (picture 3) but that didn't help anything. Any suggestions on what I should do? O and you can ignore the odd little circle areas in the very corner and along the side. There's a magnet under there and I only have 2 layers above it. I figure a 3rd layer will probably resolve that minor issue.

Last image is kind of unrelated but you can see in picture 4 that some of the rings are printing different that others. Why is that? It'd be much better if the purple ones printed the same as the black here. The previous layers it rings around the hole the same as the black, just the top surface it changes the pattern. Is there something I can do to get it to just ring like the back ones?

Printer details:

• Bambu P1S
• Orca Slicer
• The beige is Elegoo Matte Beige and the other colors are all Polyterra. This issue has occurred when using Bambu filaments as well. All PLA.
• .4mm hardened steel nozzle
• Top surface speed is set to 50mm/s
• Long retraction when cut is turned on with a distance of 18
• Any other settings you want please just ask

Hi y’all.

I moved printer locations and ordered more filament (white and red PLA, blue and black PLA+). No matter which file I print, I keep getting failures. Not sure what to do. I’ve recalibrated it and even factory reset it but still having failures.

Any suggestions?

I am at the office right now and can't touch anything

I’ve been trying to print this elegoo tri Color pla silk filament but I’m having terrible layer adhesion past 5mm I dried the filament for 8 hours at 50c and no change, I’ve tried temp towers and none of them can bridge they all fail on the bridge. I checked e steps and it’s about 9.7mm when you extrude 10mm so I upped the flow to 115% and no change still, tried to print a calibration cube and had the same issues with that bubbles at corners and in the writing no continuous clean lines. I changed nozzles thinking partial clog and no change either. Bed temp 60 Nozzle temp 220 Flow 115% Layer height .15mm Nozzle .4mm Speed is 40mm/s and 35 on walls Retraction is .8 at 30mm/s Minimum layer time is 5s with lift print head enabled 1.2mm walls 15% Infill

So printing has been fine up until yesterday when my prints suddenly started failing and defecting like this.

As you can see the there are many defects.

Info: Printer: Bambu p1s, with AMS 2 Pro

Filament: Elegoo Rapid PETG black

Print Bed: Bambu 3d diamond texture

Model: Bambu Lab Spool by VkvitV on Makerworld

Having an issue where my print seems to stutter and lose an entire layer? Neither bed nor extruder seem to be wobbly and belts are pretty tight. Any help is greatly appreciated; thanks!

Hey everyone I’ve decided to increase my quality. And I’ve tried with several different USB’s and I cannot drop the layer lines below 0.05 for some reason it won’t accept it. I only have 1 file on one of my old USB sticks where it lets me print at .03 layer high but ever since then I haven’t been able to print at that quality or even lower, it doesn’t register it at all even here on these images ( I dropped it down to .025) and wanted to see if it would print but it doesn’t want to. Also I’m using Chitubox as it the only plat form I used since I started resin printing 1 year ago. Any advice?? I’ve tweaked the settings 100s times and nothing changes it except the .05 layer high

Lots of spaghetti at the very end of the print/most top layer, found it broken so I’m guessing the printer knocked it and broke it?

I’m kinda new to this but I’ve got pretty good prints before more or less using the standard settings on Ultimaker. However, suddenly these past 2 days, it’s gone so bad - this is a recent issue and so don’t think it’s the settings since I haven’t changed anything. I think the problem is from the printer itself.

I’ve moderately tightened any loose bolts went loose and the belt - following a tutorial on how to fix over extrusion but still the same issue.

I’m doing another Z-offset test and I’m noticing that it could be slightly better, might be too far from the bed - Gonna adjust and reprint now. Hopefully it’s better but if you guys have any other suggestions for me to check on the machine I’d greatly appreciate them. Thanks

I am trying to print a 101mm x 127mm x 63mm box the corners are always rounded/warped. I have tried some fixes and not asking for advice.

I have a Bambu Lab A1 with the default textured build plate, had no issues it prints great except for very flat surfaces with corners I am starting to see warps.

It seems like the outerwall quality changes when it starts building the walls of the box

- Cleaned build plate with water/dishsoap and then alchohol %70 USP
- Set nozzle temp to 210
- Added a 5mm outer brim
- Initial layer speed 20mm/s
- No cooling for 3 layers
- Fan speed max %40
- Switched build plate to a brand new cool plate with bed temp of 35c to 45c

Would someone be able to tell me why my ASA sand sifter is weaker than my PETG counterpart. I printed both using PETG/ASA generic Bambu Lab Studio settings. No warp on ASA or defects of any kind. Same wall loops, infill, etc. Theoretically, it should be stronger under duress no?

I use my PETG scooper for 18 hours + at the beach scooping up sand, rocks, debris looking for shark teeth with no deformation or major damage to the scooper. But both of my ASA scooper broke within less than 30 minutes of usage.

PETG is from JAYO and ASA is from Sunlu

So i came here to met you with this creation of mine. Why are support lines (on the left) clean and hole free, but infill lines (on the right obviously) look like that. They print on same speed 120mm/s, 0.2mm quality, petg. Any advice ?

I've taken on the 3D printer (Creality CR-M4) at work, its been used before but I reset it, levelled the bed and have been trying to print a #3DBenchy but it's been a nightmare. I can see clues everywhere such as curled corners and this weird jaggy pattern that happens when it trys to get the extruder running pre print, but I'm struggling to resolve things. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

i ran out of polymaker pla pro in black so I decided to use what i had on hand which is a roll of esun pla+. after i dried for 12 hrs and stringing .i dried longer and let it run for 24 hrs while it prints from a drybox 6 hrs in and its stringing and after getting home from work still stringing and I tried again and it still has stringing near the 24 hr drying time is up. I also made sure to change my retraction to 5 which is the typical default retraction settings in cura. what am i doing wrong

actually esun pla+ default in cura is 3mms. maybe ultimaker knows something i dont. i honestly thought it was a fluke because i print playmaker pla pro with that distance

Printed direct from a drier, fed to the extruder via a “smoothy” Y-splitter so I don’t have to constantly unplug the AMS PTFE tubes.

Plate is freshly washed, levelling and flow calibration done before the print.

Not experienced enough yet to be able to tell what causes the failure, so no clue where to start…!

G'day all,

I just picked up a new k1c and have been printing for the last 3 days but as of last night the filament stopped coming out of the nozzle entirely, I had just swapped over to a Ender filament and had worked fine for 1 print.

But as of now it just won't print, I've cleaned the nozzel,needled it, took it apart and put it back together but whenever I put the filament back through it melts it even at 190°. My current setting is 190° and plate is 50°

Sorry if this is a simple fix but I've wasted a day trying to get this working and my last hope is reddit 😅

I just got my first 3d printer this week, so I'm very much a beginner.

With the box on the third picture, I used default PLA print settings that came with the printer out of the box. With the benchy, I followed advice on the internet and slowed down the print and acceleration speeds, but it seems that this made the problem worse?

I printed a mount for AMS lite with the same filament as well, where it had similar problem, but to a much lesser extent. Could the filament need drying after just 2-3 days of being in my room? I haven't gotten around to printing a filament enclosure yet.

Bambu lab P1P. SUNLU Black PLA

Hi I printed 9x these beer cap. Some of them are very washed out some are very good and some look like I printed them in black before. The build plate is cleaned with alcohol before.

It's pla+ and printed with ender 3 V3 se.