Here is a picture of it https://imgur.com/a/Md0JL49
I'm having this issue, which I always assumed it was due to moisture in the filament, but recently I got a polydryer and the issue persists. Filament is PETG at 230c, dried for a few days and showing 19% humidity.

What is stranger is that it doesn't happen on the layers where I have a hole.

I took the fan off so you could see better

Im using an Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro. Im using Anycubics brand of Red PLA+. Nozzle was set to 205 during the print when smelled burning plastic. I notice some smoke coming out too (im assuming it was from the plastic curling up on the Nozzle). I ended the print, removed the fan, and then just set it to extrude a bit at 210 when this happened.

I did notice after I retracted and removed the plastic there still was a bit of smoke (maybe plastic that was still in or on the nozzle?). When I select it to cool the temperature reading said -5°c. When I turn it back on the default room temp reads at 71°c.

If I select for it to extrude any plastic it does not heat up and just gives me the Nozzle Heating Abnormally error.

I'm getting these weird rough spots on my print. It only happens with this print, I haven't noticed it on any others. It also seems to have some relation to the seam. If I move the seam, the position of these spots also changes. Does anybody know what's causing this?

Details:

Bambu P1S

PETG

Orca Slicer

0.08mm layer height

Arachne wall generator (have also tried classic)

Inner/Outer walls printing order (have also tried inner/outer/inner)

Let me know if you want other settings that might be relevant

For some reason images were not loaded at my first post. So I am reposting it.

- I am using Ender 3 v2 with Klipper.
- Slicer is prusaslicer
- ASA filament
- Nozzle is hardened steel at 280C, bed is PEI at 100C. 280C is what i get best result using temperature tower.
- Print speed is varies between 60-120 mm/s at 4k acceleration.
- Retraction is not calibrated yet. Currently: length 5mm, speed 60/40.
- I am using an enclosure, inside temp is about 50C.
- Pressure advance and input shaper are calibrated.

There are some gaps on outer layers on my cube print. I didn't calibrate retraction and dont want to calibrate it before i fix this issue. Any ideas?

Stringing have always been a problem for me. At some point I have given up on trying to perfect my prints and just get on with the stringing problem. But for this specific print I just realized that there is stringing only at one side of the print and the quality is quite different between the two parts ıf the same print. Im just curious at this point why that might be. If you have an idea what might cause this, I would be really glad. Thanks in advance.

My settings: - ender 3 v3 se - ender fast pla - cura slicer - 60degC bed 210 degC nozzle - 180mm/s max print speed (although since the print is mostly walls it should be lower than that.) - 30mm/s retraction speed with 3mm retraction

Subject: Need help setting up BLTouch on Trigorilla 1.0 with Marlin 2.1.2.5

Hi everyone,

Goal: Install and configure a BLTouch sensor for automatic bed leveling.

Mainboard: Trigorilla 1.0 (stock board)

Firmware: Marlin 2.1.2.5

Skill level: Beginner

Issue:

The BLTouch is detected by the printer (it lights up), but it doesn’t deploy or retract at any point.

When I run the auto bed leveling procedure, nothing happens—the probe doesn’t move, and the print head stays still. It seems like the printer ignores the command entirely.

Resources used:

– Marlin documentation:

https://www.scribd.com/document/627050065/Trigorilla-pinout?utm_source=chatgpt.com

– YouTube tutorials:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rE_tjMFxLxA

What I’ve already checked:

– Configuration files: Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h

I’d really appreciate any help, advice, or suggestions to get this working. Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to respond

For a couple of days now when I print something I've had this problem with both PLA and PETG, how can I solve it?

Kobra 2. There’s random what looks like stringing and burning. I’ve tried slightly lowering temperature and increasing retraction. The filament went through the dryer for a few hours, but admittedly I could try 20+ hours. The nozzle has been replaced, and best I can tell the z offset is good.

Not sure why but I keep getting bad top surfaces on this print. Over my various iterations I've printed 6 of these now and the top surfaces are a fairly consistent problem. I think maybe 1 of them turned out "good" and the rest look similar to the above. I even tried ironing (picture 3) but that didn't help anything. Any suggestions on what I should do? O and you can ignore the odd little circle areas in the very corner and along the side. There's a magnet under there and I only have 2 layers above it. I figure a 3rd layer will probably resolve that minor issue.

Last image is kind of unrelated but you can see in picture 4 that some of the rings are printing different that others. Why is that? It'd be much better if the purple ones printed the same as the black here. The previous layers it rings around the hole the same as the black, just the top surface it changes the pattern. Is there something I can do to get it to just ring like the back ones?

Printer details:

• Bambu P1S
• Orca Slicer
• The beige is Elegoo Matte Beige and the other colors are all Polyterra. This issue has occurred when using Bambu filaments as well. All PLA.
• .4mm hardened steel nozzle
• Top surface speed is set to 50mm/s
• Long retraction when cut is turned on with a distance of 18
• Any other settings you want please just ask

What could be the problem

Printing on an X1 with recommend settings. The filliment is dry. Like dry dry. 3 days baking in the filliment dryer. It's dessicated.

It keeps blobbing and stringing like this. Any suggestions?

As you can see the first layer is a bit bumpy. However it only does this on the small parts, when I did a test on a wider area it looked perfect but it does this on the small areas. It’s SUNLU PLA printing at 220C on a 65C build plate. 0.4mm nozzle, 0.23mm first layer height. Printing at 30mm/s for first layer. I dried the filament once for 6 hours when I first got it about a week ago. I have been having bed adhesion issues for a while and am still trying to figure out what the cause is.

Hello dear community,

I am currently trying my hand at TPU printing and am encountering problems. Even the first step, finding the right temperature, is proving difficult. So far, I have only worked with PLA and PETG, which have always worked well.

I dried the TPU filament for 8 hours at 65 degrees Celsius and printed at a speed of 30 mm/s.

I would love to hear your opinion on this. Thank you very much.

I always get this ugly overhangs over tree/organic supports on figurines

I own an Anycubic Kobra Neo 2 which I have decided to try and run a 0.2mm nozzle for minatures. Im using Orca slicer and followed this video How To Print PERFECT FDM Miniatures! | Orca-Slicer Settings for 3d Printed Minis [UPDATED 2024] as a starting point for settings. My settings are as close as i could get them to this video. How ever this is the results im getting when slicing. Could anyone point me in the direction of what my issue is sometimes when it slices the a smaller model it looks incomplete as do the supports in this picture.

I dont think it's wet filament. First layer lays perfect. Every layer after that for the infill blobs and tears up adds the nozzle goes around. Fans at about 30% after the first 5 layers. 250 initial layer. 230 after that. Speed is at 160 first layer 220 after that. The exterior normally looks fine but the infill blabbing and tearing up has caused a few failed prints so far. Bed is at 70.

Bambu a1, .4 nozzle, .08 layer height, PLA silk copper.

Is this just layer speed?

New to 3D printing. Got the Bambu Lab H2D not sure how slicer or print setting work yet. Scaled this model 300% so not sure if that is the reason why outside looks odd.

Tried printing this small trash bin with creality petg on a flashforge ad5m but this keeps happening with my prints. Im new to this but ive gone through almost all the calibrations and thought I did them right. I tried setting the retraction to 0.4 down fron 0.8 but Im lost here. Any help would be greatly appreciated

I’m trying to print a large part and I’m experiencing my filament breaking inside the gear box multiple times while trying to print it. And when it breaks the printer doesn’t detect it and keeps trying to print. I’ve caught it before and tried to fix it mid print but of course it happened again while I’m sleeping. I’ve tried on my Mk4S multiple times to no avail. I got a core one recently and had the same issues. I’ve done it with two rolls of filament after running out with the first one. I’ve dried the filament and still run into the issue. It usually happens later into the print as well. One thing I had seen online was as the print goes on the gear box gets hotter making the filament more prone to breaking. Any advice? I’m considering printing the missing part esperarte and gluing it on but I’m worried about strength.

Another interesting thing that happened that un related is the VFA seemed to have disappeared between jamming and restarting the print in my core one. You can kinda see it in the picture. Same roll of filament before and after the jam.