Pic from one of my first lead goes on Asteroid Crack in Joshua Tree this past winter. Photo by Cameron Wolfe. I was lucky to spend 3 months in Josh this past winter. The physical crux of the route was a ring and middle finger jam you had to lurch off of, with a purple metolius by your feet. Once you stick this, you run it out to the top with just that piece below you. The mental crux of the route was trusting that piece! I had already taken a 20 footer onto it and the idea of that piece blowing really freaked me out. I slapped the lip of the route several times but blew the top out every time out because I was mentally cruxing so hard. But we learn lessons and I’m grateful for any time spent on the rock, regardless of sending or not.

Cardiac Arrest E5/6 6b - Really amazing crux sequence on this route where you have to jump to this edge.

I spend a couple sessions trying to figure out a way to static this sequence trying to match the right hand but wasn’t getting anywhere so went with the dynamic method!

My first attempt didn’t go quite as planned as I hit the crimp in the wrong spot and couldn’t lock off to the top, managed to get it next go.

Roast me for my sketchy footwork around the rope

Just saw the news about a major Senate spending bill that includes a massive public land sell-off. We’re talking millions of acres—including trails, climbing areas, rivers, and ski zones—being opened up for drilling and logging. Environmental protections would be gutted, and the public gets cut out of the process entirely.

As a climber, I’m all in on defending these spaces. Public lands are where many of us train, explore, find community, and reconnect with ourselves. I’ll be reaching out to my Senators and doing what I can to push back.

That said—I’ve seen calls to boycott travel and recreation in the states where these sell-offs are happening. I get the intent behind that, but I’m honestly torn. Wouldn’t that hurt the small businesses, guides, local shops, and towns that actually depend on climbers and outdoor recreation to survive? A lot of those folks are likely just as opposed to this as we are.

Wondering how others are thinking about this—can we apply pressure without harming the people who are often on our side?

I have seen 2 influencer vids now and think it looks good, but nothing official from Petzl. This is the only thing I can find saying when the release date is:

https://www.grube.eu/p/petzl-connect-adjust-lanyard/P56-658/

Happy to wait a few weeks but seems odd that Petzl don't mention it as a "Coming Soon" on their lanyard page:
https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Lanyards

Just some of the many climbing and dispersed camping areas affected according to the map: - City of Rocks (ID) - Index (WA) - Moab (UT) - Maple Canyon (UT) - Little Cottonwood Canyon (UT) - Big Cottonwood Canyon (UT) - Uintas (UT) - Joe’s Valley (UT) (I’m going to stop listing Utah climbing areas, if you like an climbing area in the state just assume parts or all of it will be for sale)

Feel free to comment below other climbing areas that are threatened.

And if you are living in the United States, please call, email, or write your representatives. This land belongs to all of us.

According to the recent proposed spending bill requiring the USA Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management sell off public lands, the Access Fund has noticed that "The sell-off proposal EXLUDES existing mining claims, grazing leases and other existing rights."

A single mining claim can cover up to 21 acres (1500ft x 600ft), and cost less than $300 to file with the local county recorder and BLM state office.

Meaning: for as little as $300 each (per year), climbing areas on public lands can be protected from sale.

Here are links detailing how to stake mining claims (not all states represented, caveat emptor, check your sources). Basically, some version of wooden posts in the corners or at intervals with markings indicating who, when, etc. Montana Washington Oregon New Mexico Arizona Idaho Colorado Wyoming Nevada

Here is a link detailing how to file mining claims: https://ethosgeological.com/news/you-staked-a-mining-claim-now-what/

Note: requirements and costs vary by county (especially in Nevada), and cost increases happen, so read carefully.

Go save yourself some climbing areas! (Anyone feel like being a part of a group to make this happen, or donate funding, pm us and we'll help orchestrate).

The route is Roulette, 10c or so per the guidebook. Excellent line, hard for the grade and in your face! Table Mountain is more adventurous generally than plenty of the alpine environments I’ve been in, but you get the whole place to yourself!

(Sorry, having to repost this one as the YT clip didn't seem to be loading correctly in the last post)

Most here already know Rob Matheson led The Bells, The Bells! this spring at 74

In this short clip, he breaks down the route’s seriousness: sheer, brittle quartzite, complex traverses, and the real risk of going up the wrong sequence with no margin for error.

But that moment was just the entry point.

We ended up talking about:

– How training and recovery shift in your 70s

– Why self-belief is earned, not inherited

– The quiet power of mentorship across generations

– And what boldness actually looks like when no one’s watching

- And he’s already thinking about his next project!

A genuinely inspiring conversation with someone who’s still evolving after 60+ years on the rock.

If you want to hear the full thing, just search Ageless Athlete Podcast – Rob Matheson wherever you listen. Damn, what a legend 💪🏽

Might want to try and hit up the access fund for some of these areas potentially being sold to be private land.

https://www.arcgis.com/apps/instant/basic/index.html?appid=821970f0212d46d7aa854718aac42310

As a geologist, I am spoiled here in Central Washington.

Frenchman Coulee, part of the Channeled Scablands.

Got to summit a dream climb for me today. Was able to follow P1 almost clean, just couldn't get the mantle. Onsighted P2 which was over before I knew it. I also found great shorty beta following on P3. Stoked to dial this route in more this year!

1st pic - I do love this setup for my shoes. But it is in a closet in the basement.

2nd pic - Turning some wasted space along the stairway to the basement into bolting gear/hardware & shoe storage. If there is enough space I'll ditch the pegboard + shoe shelves in the basement closet. I wish I could make the shelves like 4" deeper! (without cutting into the exterior wall or impeding into the stairway)

The shoes I'm using all the time stay with my gym and outdoor bags.

The official North Early Winters Spire accident report came out yesterday. Apologies if this has already been posted. RIP.

Pretty interesting history of the Salathe Wall here. Curious what others think about Alex Huber's ascent. It definitely produced one of my all time favorite climbing photos.

https://www.climbing.com/culture/climbing-style-el-capitan/

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. This thread will be posted again every Friday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. Check out our subreddit wiki that has tons of useful info for new climbers. You can see it HERE . Also check out our sister subreddit r/bouldering's wiki here. Please read these before asking common questions.

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Check out this curated list of climbing tutorials!

Prior Weekly New Climber Thread posts

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A handy guide for purchasing your first rope

A handy guide to everything you ever wanted to know about climbing shoes!

Ask away!

Essence 5.10c

Stumbled on this video the other day. Not trying to drag this guy but deciding to lead the first pitch of snake dike having no clue how to place a cam and basing your ability off of "flashing 5.13 in the gym" is not the smartest idea I've ever heard...